No Profanity *** No Flaming *** No Advertising *** No Anti Trappers ***NO POLITICS
No Non-Target Catches *** No Links to Anti-trapping Sites *** No Avoiding Profanity Filter
These have become mandatory on my beaver gear both footholds and conis. Push come to shove I can unhook and walk out.
Done that for yeara, especially when i was trapping straight up and down river banks and i had to set traps at the tip of the bank and then climb back down the bank to set.
I don't worry at all about getting caught in a CDR. It doesn't hurt all that much. It does get a little dicey once you reach the deep end of the drowning cable...
I love CDRs you can set them in a warm dry shop the night before and then haul them around. Like Boss man says they might be the safest beaver trap I know of.
Down in the water and half cold I'm betting the 1 hand setters pay for themselves on the first remake tho
“What’s good for me may not be good for the weak minded.” Captain Gus McCrae- Texas Rangers
However you set them, I am confused about pulling them up after bedding them.
Developing a trap holder the past few years, I have used every coil beaver trap on the market, and they are actually all great traps. Get a good latch onto a beaver with any one of them, and they will probably be there.
What keeps CDRs in my truck is that pan setup, and the fact that I can set the trap (I use one hand setters) and then keep that pan popped up. I drop the trap or lower it with my rake to the place I will be bedding it and slide my boot across the loose jaw to the pan and step on the trap. If that does not bed it, like a rock or stick or hard ground makes it unstable, I pull it up (pan still safely straight up) and rake and stomp a bed. Drop the trap back, foot under the pan again, stand and maybe bounce and twist a little, and repeat until it is solid. Then when the trap is all stepped-on solid, I flip my rake around to the handle end and slowly push the pan down until I hear and feel that “click”. Walk away.
If the other traps had that same pan setup I would not hesitate to use them, but the CDR (called WCS 7.5 now) just feels safer to me and easier to bed than the rest.
Do your CDR’s click when you push the pan down? Why do you pull the traps back up after bedding? Not that Im saying you are wrong for doing that, if you show me a better way maybe I will switch!
Yes they click when I pull the pan down. The reason I pull them up is, with the muddy water, I don't feel comfortable trying to push the pan down when I can't see the trap. I have tried your method in the past using a stick, and I set the trap off more times than not.
You and a couple others have mentioned one hand setters. I'm not sure what you are talking about. I have CDR setters that Carl Jones made. There is a setter for each side that hooks onto the wire lever. Are these what you are talking about?
You and a couple others have mentioned one hand setters. I'm not sure what you are talking about. I have CDR setters that Carl Jones made. There is a setter for each side that hooks onto the wire lever. Are these what you are talking about?
I made this video for Dave years ago, he makes setters for almost any trap.....
Warrior those are what I have. I set them the same way. Setting the trap is not the issue. Getting the trap properly bedded to my liking and being careful not to accidentally fire the trap are the issues I have.
I would suggest you check the dog “night latch”. Once the pan “clicks” into the set position, it should take another 1/8 or maybe even 3/16” of downward pan travel before it fires. This gives you enough “wiggle room” to click it down without firing. It also seems to be the the right amount of travel to ensure that the beaver is fully committed before the trap fires, giving deeper better holds. On a number of mine I have had to file the little flat a bit to make it longer. You actually lay the corner of the file against the “bump” and file so you arent making the end of the dog thinner, but making that little flat a bit bigger. I dont have one in front of me to measure, but im thinking from memory that the little flat should be around 3/64” of an inch. Also, to make the step down crisp and sharp so it really clicks. One other thing that might help is to make sure the dog is centered on the pan. If it is off to one side, you get a little less travel before it lets go. The only other thing that comes to mind that has been an issue for me is to clean any gobbed wax from the dog and pan where they engage. When i push the pan down, I get a GI Joe kung foo iron grip on the rake with both hands and use the slow but powerful approach as I push down. Every once in a while one might trip, but it hasn’t happened in a while.
I would be less concerned with that trap than with the MB-750s that I use. I use Dave Sheldon’s One Hand Setters with the 750s. The two pieces of the setter are tied together and always within easy reach with either hand. Using the setters builds confidence for one handed extraction. They are invaluable to me. I ordered a backup set in case I ever lose mine. They are also great for safely and easily adjusting the trap in the open position.
Warrior - thank you for sharing the great idea for the easily removable but secure safety feature! I will add the finger locking carabiner to all beaver footholds and 330s.
I actually think the CDR is the safest of the beaver footholds to use. I'm never nervous about setting and placing them.
Except if you sit down on them, lol.
Gosh! Someone actually did that???
I've used several large beaver traps and feel the safest are the CDRs. If you have the setters, it's rather simple to set. I set it pretty much the way you do with the posi pan up high. Then reach under the loose jaw to pull the pan down until it clicks. Even if it would accidently fire, with your finger under the jaw, it won't catch you. Changing your underwear will be the only damage you should experience.
The difference between animals and humans is that animals would never let the dumbest ones lead the pack.
None other than the boss himself. Grabbed his fat wallet if I recall correctly. But he tells the story better. BTW, ask him what the D in CDR stands for.
None other than the boss himself. Grabbed his fat wallet if I recall correctly. But he tells the story better. BTW, ask him what the D in CDR stands for.
I knew it was Paul. He admitted to it a while back. I don't recall the story anymore. Just remember it was funny.
The difference between animals and humans is that animals would never let the dumbest ones lead the pack.
Randy and Les, I wondered if a dogless CDR would be possible and as efficient?
I would sure try them out. I havent tried the newer version of the cdr yet, and havent heard any reviews either, dont know if they hold beaver as well, if the springs are as strong...?
"Those who hammer their guns into plowshares will plow for those who do not."
Boss man must be busy. I tossed out the bait hoping he would weigh in with some CDR knowledge. I know he shared it before but seeing as how we got new folks I thought it would do some good to hear from one who was there.
I don't see how a dogless would work and still retain the best feature of pushing the pan high. The only concept I can think of is some sort of two piece pan dogless catch with the pan pivoted on that. Over complicated.