I thought that Hornady One Shot was the adhesive they make to stick brass cases into resizing dies

boresnakes A++ all i use other than a copper brush to break up the rough stuff like on 22s. Ballistol has become my one and only lube, cleaner, and protector. Works great on anything, including black powder. If you use motor oil to include mobil 1 it will smoke like heck in a semi auto, especially supressed, if you shoot more than about one or two rounds close together.

Very interesting and informative video.

Been using Hoppes #9 for cleaning and sewing machine oil for lube my whole life.Never had a problem even in sub zero temps.The trick to lube is don't use gobs of it.I use an oil rag and just wipe parts down with that.Then I use a dry rag to get most of it off so there is just a thin film left.

Windex with ammonia

I make a version of Ed's Red to clean my guns with. Equal parts of Kerosene, Mineral Spirits, and Marvel Mystery Oil. Works great. I decided to leave out the Acetone because in can marr the finish. Ed Harris of Ruger formulated this many many years ago

What did the video say about Fluid Film? I have some of that and like it alot for various purposes. I can't watch the video but I wonder what they thought about it.

Hornady one shot red can that says case lube

Hornady one shot black and grey can that says cleaner and dry lube

I have to admit I prefer Lanolin for sizing over the Hornady one shot case lube

not bad in rust prevention has enough solvent in it to clean ok

but not a very good lube


I will see about posting some screen shots for you guys who can't do video

his lubricity tester spins a steel wheel he cleans iwth brake clean between products and sands a little then cleans again , there is a lever holding pressure on the bearing the bearing is just one roller bearing pulled from a cage so that all the bearings used are from the same cage and brand

in the lub test with CLP products he only ran 1 minute


here is a screen shot from the syntheic oil video he did where he ran the test with a nearing for 10 minutes
penszoil and amsoil , amsoil is the clear winner he measures the sear scar in milimeters so you can compare to what the CLP products did in 1 minute


one more comparison this was a 2 minute test with grease Lucas #2 red and tacky on the right super tech Walmart grease on the left



CLP is one thing trying to do it all

oil is a better lube , it just is

Grease is a lube that is better than CLP and stays put

so if you can clp your gun with a good rust protectant here is a test on those that expands a little more than just the project farm test


gun lube and rust protection test 46 products


get good corrosion protection on everything and then good oil or grease on the high wear parts

if you get an oral syringe from the pharmacy press it to the end of your grease gun loaded with red and tacky #2 you can dill it right through the tip with no air in it then you can use that to put a dab where you need it

they charge a bunch to sell you a ounce of grease in a little tube when you can put it in your own little tube for less than a dollar.

I have been told that the trick to One Shot is to clean your dies of all traces of any other lube you may have used previously... But I can't verify as I haven't actually used it.

Mike

that could be the case

alcohol and lanoline is my go to for sizing full length

my bolt guns get neck sized with no lube and a collet die till they have been shot round 5 times then a full length and trim

a gallon zip lock bag and a few sprays of the lanolin and alcohol mix and a few handfuls of brass make for the easiest sizing I have found

I have a can of the one shot case lube , if I need to size it and load it right away I will use it but that doesn't happen very often usually brass prep one day then load the next day

Pete, you aren't the first person to tell me about alcohol/lanolin... I am assuming 91% isopropyl alcohol and pure lanolin? What ratio of lanolin to alcohol, and where are you sourcing the pure lanolin?

Mike

I bought some break free one time and cleaned a gun with it. The next day it looked like I had wiped it down with sea water. Rusted all to heck. Pulled the whole thing apart, washed it good, wiped it down with an oil rag and the rust never came back.

@Mike in A-town

the health food store or amazon

I started at about an ounce of lanoline to 7 ounces 91% don't think it even needs to be that much , shake well before use

the 91% doesn't stay in solution as well so the cheap gas additive Isopropyl it stays in solution better just means less shaking and faster dry time

but 91 does work fine just takes longer to dry because it is part water and needs a little more shaking

I bought 500 peicies of 308 once fired and cleaned but not sized or de primed

I am going to guess this stuff was run in a bunch of semi auto or maybe even in a MG I never had such hard brass to size , the only thing that was working was the lanoline mix and it was still a lot of pushing and pulling I would run them in and out twice each but once I did they were fine a mix of federal , win and pmc brass

the bag trick really helps get it coated with very little used

lanoline oil , I have Now brand I don''t see the Now in the liquid 4oz bottles , the health food store has it also most of the time.

an ounce sizes a lot off brass 1 ounce oil to 10 ounces of alcohol is where I would try for your first mix if you do it in a 12 oz bottle you can go up or down for what you like

Not a fan of Break Free CLP. Has failed me before as rust protector in warm weather, it's too thick and gummy in cold weather. I use a little REM Oil when it's warm out. For winter, I clean out bolt and chamber area with brake cleaner, then use a touch of powdered graphite, (bolt action rifles). There may be better products, but that works for us. Gotta be careful when a cold rifle comes indoors, though.

that is where the Hornady one shot clean and dry lube seems to do well , corostion protection and not being an issue in the cold

we did a Winter Seed shoot , an appleseed shoot in the cold we were single digits all day running 22lr , had to keep you ammo warm in a pocket or some had it in a small cooler with hand warmers, but running the one shot had no problems

before than my go too was just Hoppes #9 the cleaner wipe everything down with that for cold hunting

I had issues with some other lube when hunting cold my 1100 12ga hit the bolt release and the bolt closed in slow motion , broke it down wiped everything with the #9 Hoppes and it ran well

Hoppe's suggests just #9 for firing pins and firing pin channels and nothing else


the Russians used strait Kerosene in WWII the Germans Balsitol guess who's rifles froze shut on the eastern front , it wasn't the guys who had been using their rifles for decades in sub zero weather.

Berlin Germany hardly gets below freezing in January

with the brake free clp it seemed like my pump guns would get sticky working the slide between seasons so clean and put away in Jan and get out in October and feel sticky in the slide
I am not getting that with the One Shot clean and dry lube.

if you can't get the One shot easy where you are the WD-40 Specialist dry lube with ptfe seems to be very close in performance

both are great for outdoor locks also I spray down the lock at the gate any time it starts to not turn smooth I should probably just do it once a month but it ends up more like 3-4

That's what I thought too!!! The only thing Hornday One Shot is used for at my house is lubricating door hinges!