Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: G Hose]
#7536211
03/23/22 09:25 AM
03/23/22 09:25 AM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,164 Piney va. soon be 19
cotton
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,164
Piney va. soon be 19
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I would also put them on top of slab. We always use Simpson ABU66Z 6x6 Post Base. Also meets our building codes. Come in various sizes, either preset anchor bolts when pouring slab or use red heads if pre-existing slab X2
John 3/16
ifin your gonna be dumb ya gotta be tough VTA life member
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: Trapset]
#7536457
03/23/22 02:10 PM
03/23/22 02:10 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 68 Western, Pennsylvania
Murphy
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Western, Pennsylvania
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I struggled with this when I built my barn. Instead of poles having contact with concrete or ground, I imbedded u bolts in the concrete slab's haunch. Then simple walls attach to the floor plate. I also put a base sheet between the plate and concrete slab to eliminate any abrasion between the wood and concrete floor.
Last edited by Murphy; 03/23/22 02:19 PM.
Cold Trapper
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: Trapset]
#7536530
03/23/22 03:19 PM
03/23/22 03:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 828 Indiana
CaseXX
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Indiana
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A new (last 20 yrs.) method used here is drilled 8 in. hole below frost line. Soni-tube (heavy cardboard tube) placed in hole extending 15 in. above grade. Fill with concrete to 10 in. above grade. While concrete is still wet place metal 6x6 holders for posts into top of concrete. The holders have metal rods with anchors to hold posts in place after concrete sets. Now you have concrete pillars with wood posts above grade. On my two 6 yr. old barns they are rated for 120mph. winds. Good luck. Case.
Rules: Col. Jeff Cooper #1for a gunfight Gibbs. #9 always carry a knife
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: G Hose]
#7536552
03/23/22 03:59 PM
03/23/22 03:59 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,169 McGrath, AK
white17
"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
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"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,169
McGrath, AK
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I would also put them on top of slab. We always use Simpson ABU66Z 6x6 Post Base. Also meets our building codes. Come in various sizes, either preset anchor bolts when pouring slab or use red heads if pre-existing slab I have used the above brackets but only for supporting center span locations. On a corner I would prefer to set the post in concrete. Pressure treated or cedar posts at least 4 feet down. On the other hand......it is a lot easier to locate the post for squaring if you locate it on top of the slab. If you go that route I would be certain to use a redhead on either side of the post. You haven't said how deep your concrete is or how tall these posts will be. Lots of leverage at the top of the post. ! I would also epoxy the redheads in place even though they don't necessarily require it
Mean As Nails
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: Trapset]
#7536605
03/23/22 04:59 PM
03/23/22 04:59 PM
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Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,497 Southern NJ
maintenanceguy
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Southern NJ
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I've done posts on top of footings with the Simpson post bases shown above, anchor bolts in the footings. I like to bring the sonotubes flush with the top of the slab to create a joint where the footing and slab can move. In NJ, we get freeze/thaw cycles all winter. Although it rarely happens, slabs can heave in the winter. I don't want the slab tied to the footing. In NE, I'm assuming that once the ground is frozen, it's frozen until Spring. Maybe slabs don't move there.
-Ryan
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: maintenanceguy]
#7536641
03/23/22 05:40 PM
03/23/22 05:40 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,565 Nebraska
Trapset
OP
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OP
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Nebraska
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I've done posts on top of footings with the Simpson post bases shown above, anchor bolts in the footings. I like to bring the sonotubes flush with the top of the slab to create a joint where the footing and slab can move. In NJ, we get freeze/thaw cycles all winter. Although it rarely happens, slabs can heave in the winter. I don't want the slab tied to the footing. In NE, I'm assuming that once the ground is frozen, it's frozen until Spring. Maybe slabs don't move there. I’m building it in NW Ontario so frost should stay all winter. Do you put an expansion joint wrap around the tube, or just use the tube to keep it separate from the slab?
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: Trapset]
#7536658
03/23/22 05:52 PM
03/23/22 05:52 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 68 Western, Pennsylvania
Murphy
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Posts: 68
Western, Pennsylvania
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I notched all the post. They are all true 6”x6” Amish rough cut hemlock. I wanted my hemlock siding flush on the inside.
Cold Trapper
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: eric space]
#7536786
03/23/22 07:58 PM
03/23/22 07:58 PM
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,785 Northern lower Michigan
Feedinggrounds
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Northern lower Michigan
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My pole barn has posts concreted in the ground. Posts are made from 3 pressure treated 2x6's bolted together to form a 6x6 post. A standard 6x6 post does not get the treatment all the way into the center and thus rots from the inside out. Barn was built in 1995 in a wet spot and all posts are still as solid as new. Trapset: if you are milling power poles make sure they are treated all the way thru. Poles around here are not.. My sawmill produces and treats residential telephone poles along with fence posts. If your solid 6x6 posts are not treated 100% three things, log was too big for milling a 6x6 (too much heartwood for diameter) Wrong treatment chemical (non-human contact) Decks and railings of treated wood is treated different than posts. Third, moisture content too high prior to treating, pressure vessel pressure too low or time in vessel too short. Log size for a pole barn post should be just larger than finished post, that gives minimum heartwood. A straight 10 inch log should be used for a 6x6 post. All my timber is laser sorted to big end small end diameter. We do bore/core testing to certify.
Last edited by Feedinggrounds; 03/23/22 07:59 PM.
you're only allowed so many sunrises... I aim to see every one of them!
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Re: Anchoring posts for metal building?
[Re: Trapset]
#7536873
03/23/22 08:52 PM
03/23/22 08:52 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,169 McGrath, AK
white17
"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
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"General (Mr.Sunshine) Washington"
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 35,169
McGrath, AK
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That’s kind of what I’m thinking case. Just without the tube and extension.
Heres the poop White. I’m planning on pouring a footing under where the posts are going, 4’ deep 6”-8” diameter with larger pad on top and a 1/2” rebar rod running the full depth. Posts will be 18’ tall. Only about 20’x20’ of the 40x60 will have a floor 5 1/2” thick. But you will have a continuous footing around the entire 40x60 perimeter ? Thanks
Mean As Nails
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