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Logwood dye question #7618180
07/02/22 10:57 PM
07/02/22 10:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
First time using the logwood dye, last season I started out and dyed all my traps with stag horn Schumac. First time dying traps with logwood crystals and notice a certain scent with it. Question is does it dissipate and if not do predators smell it?

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618291
07/03/22 07:39 AM
07/03/22 07:39 AM
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 1,191
Pennsylvania
Longbeard12 Offline
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Longbeard12  Offline
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Pennsylvania
I have used the log wood dye for the past couple seasons. No issues what so ever. They get waxed as soon as they dry and I sometimes am setting them in the ground the next day. You shouldn't have a problem. Good luck.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618319
07/03/22 08:16 AM
07/03/22 08:16 AM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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ToCatchAPredator  Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
So I waxed them and let the wax cool in the pot overnight and the wax is now a light purple, which means there was definitely a transfer of the dye to the wax. Does that mean now that the wax is tainted with the scent? I left the traps outside overnight and it seems to have dissipated but I can imagine a yote will smell it better than I can. Does that mean I need to re wax them?

Last edited by ToCatchAPredator; 07/03/22 08:17 AM.
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618337
07/03/22 08:54 AM
07/03/22 08:54 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,384
Pennsylvania
H
Hern Offline
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Pennsylvania
No. You had excess dye on your traps. Your wax is ok.
Next time...
Place dye in cold water then turn up the heat.
When water boils, place traps in tub.
Let traps simmer for an hour or to your liking.
Remove traps from dye and rinse excess dye from traps.

Waxing 1st batch-
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Boiling traps-
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]




Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618387
07/03/22 10:25 AM
07/03/22 10:25 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,590
SW Pa
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Bob Jameson Offline
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Now that is how its done.

I like the clothes line laundry drying system Hern. Nice fresh air to soak into those traps.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618439
07/03/22 11:54 AM
07/03/22 11:54 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
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The Beav Offline
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Wisconsin
Why dye the trap when your just going to wax over It?


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618448
07/03/22 12:09 PM
07/03/22 12:09 PM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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ToCatchAPredator  Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
I see on the coyote trapping school that guys put their wax right in with their dye, have read it a few other places too that it’s a cheaper way to do it but doesn’t give as good of a coating. Just want to know if it’s going to contaminate the wax. I see all logwood dye ingredients are natural masking scents anyways just not sure if predators are going to smell it through the dirt.

That’s one darn good set up you got there Hern!

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618517
07/03/22 02:48 PM
07/03/22 02:48 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
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Mesa,Washington.
For the best results dye all the traps first, let them dry over night. Then Wax!!!! If you hang the traps correctly Wax will not puddle in the traps trigger system!!!

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: The Beav] #7618521
07/03/22 03:00 PM
07/03/22 03:00 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
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Mark McCary  Offline
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Mesa,Washington.
Originally Posted by The Beav
Why dye the trap when your just going to wax over It?

Because the Dyeing process is more beneficial then the Wax, for a coyote trapper! Clean Traps.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618682
07/03/22 07:24 PM
07/03/22 07:24 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
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The Beav Offline
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I stopped using dye and wax a long time ago. Now all my canine traps are powder coated.I don't know If you can find a better trap coating.

The reason I stopped using dye Is to get a good dye job the trap has to be rusted to receive the dye. And dye with out some type of coating over It offers no protection to the trap. And of course after a few catches your wax and dye are gone. But wax does tend to speed the closing of your trap.

Powder coating protects your trap and you can power wash that trap after a catch or or two and have it In the ground the next day and It will be clean.

But the bottom line Is If you use a dirty trap In the catch circle It dosen't make any difference if It's dirty or not. Every thing smells the same. When I dyed and waxed and had a few catches with those traps and I wanted to make new sets I just carried some catch circle dirt to the new location and guess what the trap smelled just like the ground at the new set. Guess what you didn't need clean traps. And that set was already lured. Works like a charm.


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618694
07/03/22 07:52 PM
07/03/22 07:52 PM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
I just don’t understand the logic behind it I guess, if logwood is such a distinct strong smell that I as a human can smell how can a canine not smell it. Let alone whether you float the wax in water, on top of your dye or even just in wax alone, you’re still getting a transfer of that dye’s scent into the wax. Maybe I’m thinking too deeply into it but just kinda doesn’t make sense. If touching a trap technically contaminated it and it’s something you can’t smell then how do they not smell the dye or wax which a human can in fact smell. But then you read a lot about mark zagger and he is like a free for all with scent and he pours the coals to em. Then again, you get people who say you need to have different gloves, don’t kneel down, watch how many steps, and pretty much don’t even breathe on the trap. Just from a second year trapper it doesn’t make sense. Granted I caught my only fox last season in a set that a coon had been in.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: The Beav] #7618703
07/03/22 08:06 PM
07/03/22 08:06 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
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Mark McCary  Offline
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Mesa,Washington.
Beav, good post. I new You had more gas in the tank lol. Is it really practical $ to prep and powder coat 300 coyote traps?

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618732
07/03/22 09:02 PM
07/03/22 09:02 PM
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,723
SW Georgia
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Wanna Be Offline
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SW Georgia
Why do either? Sometimes I think we do things because that’s how it’s always been done. A critter doesn’t care if a trap is shiny new or waxed and dyed or dipped.
Clean and set. At the end of season soak in vinegar to make them new again, rinse, and put up for next season. If they get too bad during season, repeat. At most it’s three 5 gallon buckets and some vinegar and baking soda.
I’ve tried dying and waxing and even dipping them. That gets worn off by the second or third catch anyways, so I’m back to where I originally started.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618733
07/03/22 09:04 PM
07/03/22 09:04 PM
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,723
SW Georgia
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Wanna Be Offline
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With the above post, I am going to clean and paint my DP’s white this year. We’ve experimented with some and not only can “I” see them better, they seem to attract the critters more as well.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618740
07/03/22 09:13 PM
07/03/22 09:13 PM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
I bought a bunch of white and brown DPs last season. In my experience the white dps tend to catch more. Baited the same, lured the same. Just seem to pull them in more. When it switched to snow it slowed down immensely though and the browns started to catch more though. Guessing it’s because they couldn’t see them as easily

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618745
07/03/22 09:15 PM
07/03/22 09:15 PM
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 10,723
SW Georgia
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Wanna Be Offline
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Wanna Be  Offline
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Yeah, only white we have around here is sand, and ain’t many places I trap with that, lol. Snow is a once a decade anomaly.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618821
07/03/22 11:34 PM
07/03/22 11:34 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 25,423
Georgia
warrior Offline
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warrior  Offline
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Georgia
Originally Posted by ToCatchAPredator
I just don’t understand the logic behind it I guess, if logwood is such a distinct strong smell that I as a human can smell how can a canine not smell it. Let alone whether you float the wax in water, on top of your dye or even just in wax alone, you’re still getting a transfer of that dye’s scent into the wax. Maybe I’m thinking too deeply into it but just kinda doesn’t make sense. If touching a trap technically contaminated it and it’s something you can’t smell then how do they not smell the dye or wax which a human can in fact smell. But then you read a lot about mark zagger and he is like a free for all with scent and he pours the coals to em. Then again, you get people who say you need to have different gloves, don’t kneel down, watch how many steps, and pretty much don’t even breathe on the trap. Just from a second year trapper it doesn’t make sense. Granted I caught my only fox last season in a set that a coon had been in.


Personally, I think we overthink the whole scent/odorless issue. I was taught dye wax ground cloth hip boots one drop of sweat on a set caused digging.

Try all that in Georgia heat.

Now I just want to get the set in quickly, not cross contaminate trap set with lure/bait and move on to the next. As for "clean" traps, once a catch is made the entire catch circle and trap smells the same. While a canines nose is good I doubt it can disect a three foot patch of dirt and pinpoint the trap after a coyote has wallowed everything overnight.

Dye and wax is more for metal preservation than anything else and we now have others options, many better at preventing rust though few as good as wax at lubrication.

BTW, short of a star trek transporter there is no way that some part of my own aroma won't be left at a set. You can't beat a canines nose.


[Linked Image]
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618849
07/04/22 01:02 AM
07/04/22 01:02 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
T
The Beav Offline
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The Beav  Offline
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Wisconsin
I have a contact and I get my 100 coyote traps powder coated for $1.00 a trap.
But for the most part I believe In what Warrior stated. We really over think this scent thing.


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: warrior] #7618850
07/04/22 01:02 AM
07/04/22 01:02 AM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
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Mark McCary  Offline
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Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
Some how we manage to catch them by the Thousands???

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: The Beav] #7618894
07/04/22 06:45 AM
07/04/22 06:45 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,384
Pennsylvania
H
Hern Offline
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Posts: 3,384
Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by The Beav
Why dye the trap when your just going to wax over It?

Beav, I was answering/ helping OP. Just saying.
I stopped dying traps years ago. Only boil in Lye to clean, then wax. Nowadays I skip the dye.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Bob Jameson] #7618897
07/04/22 06:56 AM
07/04/22 06:56 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,384
Pennsylvania
H
Hern Offline
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Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by Bob Jameson
Now that is how its done.
I like the clothes line laundry drying system Hern. Nice fresh air to soak into those traps.

Thank you Bob.
I used trapping wire to hang, but traps would slide when weight was on one side.
Years back I got a roll of small chain and cut to length to fit our trees... easy to loop around trees, strong and traps stay in place.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


BTW ToCatchAPredator-
When removing traps from wax pot, let traps drip back into pot for a few moments. Then shake hot wax traps off before hanging.
Wear old shoes & pants...
[Linked Image]



Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618912
07/04/22 07:26 AM
07/04/22 07:26 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,590
SW Pa
B
Bob Jameson Offline
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SW Pa
Those water proof pants and shoes will hold up for many years Hern. smile I have a pair of old nylon rain pants I have used for many years now. They have a draw string waist so easy on and off.

They are splashed pretty good now after many years of wearing them. I try to wear rubber shoes most of the time. You can't get that wax out of fabric. I have tried shaving the blotches with a knife no luck really. Won't wash out so I get dressed accordingly when treating traps.

I built a hanging rack years ago with a bunch of long screws lagged into a 2 X 6" face board. I have had to extend my board length a couple times as I seem to treat more traps each year, so it takes more room. I usually bundle 3-4 traps in a bunch with tie wire. Too many traps to single dye and wax.

I like the chain idea.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618937
07/04/22 08:34 AM
07/04/22 08:34 AM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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ToCatchAPredator  Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
Yeah I made the decision the other night to do it wearing shorts and crocks and I have tiny little burns all over my shins and feet. Not the best idea.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7618999
07/04/22 10:11 AM
07/04/22 10:11 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,590
SW Pa
B
Bob Jameson Offline
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Bob Jameson  Offline
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SW Pa
Well, you will know better the next time around. That is how we learn sometimes.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7619030
07/04/22 11:10 AM
07/04/22 11:10 AM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 558
Catskills, New York
ToCatchAPredator Offline OP
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ToCatchAPredator  Offline OP
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Catskills, New York
Yeah sometimes experience is the best teacher. But I have a couple pieces of uni strut that I have lagged into my shed to hang critters from and it works real well with some s hooks and hanging the traps that way. Not as big of a set up as hern but then again I only have a fraction of the traps to treat

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7619045
07/04/22 11:28 AM
07/04/22 11:28 AM
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 499
Bryant, IN
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Dennis W Offline
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Bryant, IN
Hern, I stand a piece of cardboard up and stand on one while shaking my waxed traps on the other side. My pants and shoes get very little wax on them.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Mark McCary] #7619278
07/04/22 05:27 PM
07/04/22 05:27 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 17,383
Central Ohio
LT GREY Offline
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LT GREY  Offline
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Central Ohio
Originally Posted by Mark McCary
Originally Posted by The Beav
Why dye the trap when your just going to wax over It?

Because the Dyeing process is more beneficial then the Wax, for a coyote trapper! Clean Traps.


You're not suggesting you can't catch coyotes with a trap that isn't dyed and /or waxed traps. . . are you ? ? ? laugh

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: LT GREY] #7620071
07/05/22 05:55 PM
07/05/22 05:55 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
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Mesa,Washington.
NO!!! LT. I think you are just throwing corn cobbs at the Bull for Fun? Lol.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7620388
07/06/22 01:35 AM
07/06/22 01:35 AM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,415
Idaho
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bearcat2 Offline
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Idaho
I like to dye with alder bark, but have used walnut hulls and even logwood dye once or twice. I didn't think logwood dye held up quite as well and has a powdery look on the traps, but it works pretty good. No point in dyeing traps that aren't rusty, they won't dye worth a darn, but I will disagree with Beav, the dye, particularly from alder or walnut really does protect the traps a lot from rusting. I wax mine the old school way of simply putting the wax on top of the water in the dye pot, never had a problem with this. I painted some traps white last year for using in the snow, and think I will be doing this to pretty much any new wolf or coyote traps I get, I like the dye and think it protects the traps better and holds up better to a catch, but it is amazing how much a white painted trap helps avoid melting out when set in the snow. And if I'm using them in dirt they are covered anyways so who cares what color they are?

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Mark McCary] #7623966
07/10/22 09:38 PM
07/10/22 09:38 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,355
SD
Boone Liane Offline
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Boone Liane  Offline
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SD
Originally Posted by Mark McCary
Some how we manage to catch them by the Thousands???


And yet in many areas, with zero effect on the overall population???

What’s that say?

Last edited by Boone Liane; 07/10/22 09:41 PM.
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Boone Liane] #7624003
07/10/22 10:38 PM
07/10/22 10:38 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
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Mark McCary  Offline
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Mesa,Washington.
Coyote's have my respect!!!

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624205
07/11/22 09:08 AM
07/11/22 09:08 AM
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 2,930
E central Il
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Golf ball Offline
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E central Il
Boone that says you got a lot of feed .

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624266
07/11/22 11:21 AM
07/11/22 11:21 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,797
Wisconsin
T
The Beav Offline
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Wisconsin
So you rust your traps to take the dye. Then you dye the traps In a hot dye solution. Then you take the traps out and hang to dry and they begin to rust as they dry. Then you cover the dye with wax.
But If that gives you confidence In your catch rate then that's what you should do.


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624284
07/11/22 12:01 PM
07/11/22 12:01 PM
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 12,097
South Ga - Almost Florida
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Swamp Wolf Offline
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South Ga - Almost Florida
For deep South trapping in these acidic soils......your traps should be waxed, at a minimum once annually. I dye also, but its usually only once every 3 or 4 years.

A trap that sits in this acidic soil, especially if it's a wet season, will be a mess of rust in no time. Traps cost too much not to take care of em.

In areas of the country with more alkaline soils and dry conditions... ya'll can likely get by with no trap treatment....but I cannot.

As for trap scent control and coyote trapping with/without dye and/or wax: If my traps wouldn't rust I would not treat them at all. Just keep lure, bait, and urine odor off of em.

Anyone that says traps MUST be dyed and or waxed to catch coyotes is inexperienced and has read that in a book.


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Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624315
07/11/22 12:59 PM
07/11/22 12:59 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 591
Tipton, In.
R
RHuff Offline
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Tipton, In.
I dye and wax because that was how I was taught and its something I enjoy doing every fall to get ready. I have never intentionally rusted any of my traps. The first year new I spray with degreaser and power wash then dye pot for an hour let dry then 15 minutes in the wax pot till metal is hot then drip and shake off excess and let cool and store hanging from the rafters of my long retired beagle kennel. I dye and wax every year and after about three years they are coal black. I could just as easily power wash and hang to dry in the covered kennel and still catch plenty but like i said its part of the ritual every year for me. I had a trap last season that caught two Coyotes a coon and a red fox at one set and after I washed it up it still had most of the dye still intact. It is one of my original MB 550s and has been dyed many times and still looks good. If it gives you confidence I say do it. I feel the most important part of my process is hanging in an open air area where they remain dry until I need them.

Last edited by RHuff; 07/11/22 01:00 PM.
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624328
07/11/22 01:25 PM
07/11/22 01:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,960
Northern Nevada
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Bob Offline
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Northern Nevada
I clean excess junk off them, boil in clean water, and wax. Never in my life have I ever dyed a trap. Water traps just get spray painted flat black. The dye serves no purpose but to neutralize the rust…the rust that you made form so that the dye would take…think about it. I wax because I use calcium chloride as antifreeze and without some kind of coating that stuff will eat traps alive. I’ve been looking into changing my antifreeze methods though.

Dying, waxing, powder coating, doesn’t really matter, none of them are meant to hide the trap from the coyote, the trap would be just as hidden if it were bare. In fact I’m my area it would probably be hidden better, because we have a lot of natural rust in the dirt. They only serve to protect your equipment from becoming a pile of useless rust.


"I have two guns, one for each of ya."
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624357
07/11/22 02:13 PM
07/11/22 02:13 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,626
Flint, Michigan
bhugo Offline
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Posts: 2,626
Flint, Michigan
Dye does help neutralize rust and that’s it’s purpose in my book. Anything with tannic acid will do the same thing to rust. Bark, walnut hulls, sumac or logwood crystals/powder all just leach tannic acid into the boiling water. I boil in lye first to clean odors and old wax, then I dye and wax. I never pre rust my traps but they will rust with use.. It seems silly to pre rust as rust is the enemy. Dye won’t offer much protection though, so I wax them after neutralizing the rust. I just use a propane torch to melt the thicker wax off the trigger and dog end if needed. Waxing them when they are still hot from dye, and leaving them in the hot wax long enough to evaporate any moisture and to warm the trap up to wax temperature is key in getting a super thin coat.

Powder coating sounds great but I don’t have access to it. Dipping or painting sounds great too but I’d still dye them to neutralize rust if there was any. I just seem to enjoy the dying and waxing my coyote traps.

I keep my last tub of dye in the shed and drop my traps that made catches that I couldn’t use in a remake. After it fills up, I’ll boil them and use them again if needed without waxing for expediency. This has worked well for me.


Member MTPCA, FTA and NTA
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Hern] #7624358
07/11/22 02:16 PM
07/11/22 02:16 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,626
Flint, Michigan
bhugo Offline
trapper
bhugo  Offline
trapper

Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,626
Flint, Michigan
Originally Posted by Hern
Originally Posted by Bob Jameson
Now that is how its done.
I like the clothes line laundry drying system Hern. Nice fresh air to soak into those traps.

Thank you Bob.
I used trapping wire to hang, but traps would slide when weight was on one side.
Years back I got a roll of small chain and cut to length to fit our trees... easy to loop around trees, strong and traps stay in place.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


BTW ToCatchAPredator-
When removing traps from wax pot, let traps drip back into pot for a few moments. Then shake hot wax traps off before hanging.
Wear old shoes & pants...
[Linked Image]



Love this!


Member MTPCA, FTA and NTA
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624387
07/11/22 03:08 PM
07/11/22 03:08 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,355
SD
Boone Liane Offline
trapper
Boone Liane  Offline
trapper

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,355
SD
I dye (boil) for a couple reasons.

Used traps are gonna rust. Period. And you need to do something annually to that rust. You can scrub on em with a wire brush, vinegar bath them, tumble em in a cement mixer with gravel, or neutralize that new crop of rust with high tannin solutions (even if it is just temporarily) .

I’m not gonna hand scrub 600+ traps.

Vinegar, while ok for occasional use on badly rusted traps is not something I want to annually do to traps, because vinegar is as bad for the steel as the rust is. Both rust and vinegar etch steel, pit steel, which causes them to rust faster the second time around. No thanks.

I’m not gonna tumble 600+ traps in a cement mixer to shine them up.

But I can dye and wax 600+ traps in about 8 hours.

It’s a great deodorizer. I pressure wash all my traps before dying. But I can pressure wash a skunked up trap till my eyes bleed and still smell skunk.

And it’s the only treatment (besides wax), I can use one day and catch coyotes with the next. Plus, I firmly believe waxed traps function better and better resist freezing down in nasty, wet and freezing conditions.

I’ve used a lot of dips. Every one I’ve used needs time to air out, and time to cure before use.

New traps can just be degreased and waxed. But with use comes rust.

Last edited by Boone Liane; 07/11/22 03:09 PM.
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Golf ball] #7624390
07/11/22 03:12 PM
07/11/22 03:12 PM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,355
SD
Boone Liane Offline
trapper
Boone Liane  Offline
trapper

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,355
SD
Originally Posted by Golf ball
Boone that says you got a lot of feed .



Sure could be.

It can also mean a seasonal harvest doesn’t amount to squat within a region.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Boone Liane] #7624415
07/11/22 04:03 PM
07/11/22 04:03 PM
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
M
Mark McCary Offline
trapper
Mark McCary  Offline
trapper
M

Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 430
Mesa,Washington.
Great post Boone!!!!

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624597
07/11/22 08:49 PM
07/11/22 08:49 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,820
sw iowa
Outlaw99 Offline
trapper
Outlaw99  Offline
trapper

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,820
sw iowa
I’m sure different soils affect steel differently in different country. 1 season with multiple catches and my traps are real rusty. I’m not worried about that affecting my catch, but I am worried about it progressing and degrading the quality of my iron. That’s why I dye all my users after a season. New traps usually get sat out in the elements for a few weeks to naturally rinse off some oil or they get ran. Everything gets waxed. Everyone’s got a different situation, this is just what works for me.


Not everyone likes me, but not everyone matters
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7624666
07/11/22 10:13 PM
07/11/22 10:13 PM
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 551
Maine
A
andrews1958 Offline
trapper
andrews1958  Offline
trapper
A

Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 551
Maine
Originally Posted by ToCatchAPredator
First time using the logwood dye, last season I started out and dyed all my traps with stag horn Schumac. First time dying traps with logwood crystals and notice a certain scent with it. Question is does it dissipate and if not do predators smell it?

Originally Posted by ToCatchAPredator
First time using the logwood dye, last season I started out and dyed all my traps with stag horn Schumac. First time dying traps with logwood crystals and notice a certain scent with it. Question is does it dissipate and if not do predators smell it?


I do it cause I love the smell of logwood and it gets me in trapping mode!

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: ToCatchAPredator] #7625005
07/12/22 12:34 PM
07/12/22 12:34 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 17,383
Central Ohio
LT GREY Offline
trapper
LT GREY  Offline
trapper

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 17,383
Central Ohio


Who remembers when they had the (actual) black crystals and does anyone sell them anymore ?

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Boone Liane] #7625031
07/12/22 01:45 PM
07/12/22 01:45 PM
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
B
Boco Offline
trapper
Boco  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 45,261
james bay frontierOnt.
Originally Posted by Boone Liane
I dye (boil) for a couple reasons.

Used traps are gonna rust. Period. And you need to do something annually to that rust. You can scrub on em with a wire brush, vinegar bath them, tumble em in a cement mixer with gravel, or neutralize that new crop of rust with high tannin solutions (even if it is just temporarily) .

I’m not gonna hand scrub 600+ traps.

Vinegar, while ok for occasional use on badly rusted traps is not something I want to annually do to traps, because vinegar is as bad for the steel as the rust is. Both rust and vinegar etch steel, pit steel, which causes them to rust faster the second time around. No thanks.

I’m not gonna tumble 600+ traps in a cement mixer to shine them up.

But I can dye and wax 600+ traps in about 8 hours.

It’s a great deodorizer. I pressure wash all my traps before dying. But I can pressure wash a skunked up trap till my eyes bleed and still smell skunk.

And it’s the only treatment (besides wax), I can use one day and catch coyotes with the next. Plus, I firmly believe waxed traps function better and better resist freezing down in nasty, wet and freezing conditions.

I’ve used a lot of dips. Every one I’ve used needs time to air out, and time to cure before use.

New traps can just be degreased and waxed. But with use comes rust.


Good post,agree 100%


Forget that fear of gravity-get a little savagery in your life.
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: LT GREY] #7625939
07/13/22 08:28 PM
07/13/22 08:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,820
sw iowa
Outlaw99 Offline
trapper
Outlaw99  Offline
trapper

Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,820
sw iowa
Originally Posted by LT GREY


Who remembers when they had the (actual) black crystals and does anyone sell them anymore ?


Marty Smith with Kegcreeklures has it, it’s good stuff


Not everyone likes me, but not everyone matters
Re: Logwood dye question [Re: The Beav] #7626386
07/14/22 12:01 PM
07/14/22 12:01 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,415
Idaho
B
bearcat2 Offline
trapper
bearcat2  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,415
Idaho
Originally Posted by The Beav
So you rust your traps to take the dye. Then you dye the traps In a hot dye solution. Then you take the traps out and hang to dry and they begin to rust as they dry. Then you cover the dye with wax.
But If that gives you confidence In your catch rate then that's what you should do.

No I don't rust my traps to dye, but I do dye traps that are already rusted. I've a couple traps that are fifteen years old and still have a lot of silver showing, unlike their littermates they never rusted much, all those traps bought at that time I waxed brand new and went to using. Those couple apparently never caught much/had the wax knocked off of them so they never developed rust in a lot of places to take the dye. They are ran through the dye pot and waxed every year, but they are kind of mottled black and silver gray because the dye doesn't take on the clean steel.

And I've some traps that were dyed and waxed fifteen years ago (with the wax melted on top of the water of the dye pot, so no chance to "dry" before being waxed) and haven't been used since, just hung on the side of the shed. (Bunch of Victor #3 dbls beaver traps, I don't trap near as many beaver as I used to, and always set all my #4s and B&Ls first because I like them better, and haven't had to break into a few dozen of my #3 spares) Those traps are as nice a black without a drop of rust on them, as they were the day I pulled them out of the pot. So I will argue the dye and wax does protect them and they do not begin to rust as soon as you pull them out.

Re: Logwood dye question [Re: Boco] #7626391
07/14/22 12:04 PM
07/14/22 12:04 PM
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,415
Idaho
B
bearcat2 Offline
trapper
bearcat2  Offline
trapper
B

Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,415
Idaho
Originally Posted by Boco
Originally Posted by Boone Liane
I dye (boil) for a couple reasons.

Used traps are gonna rust. Period. And you need to do something annually to that rust. You can scrub on em with a wire brush, vinegar bath them, tumble em in a cement mixer with gravel, or neutralize that new crop of rust with high tannin solutions (even if it is just temporarily) .

I’m not gonna hand scrub 600+ traps.

Vinegar, while ok for occasional use on badly rusted traps is not something I want to annually do to traps, because vinegar is as bad for the steel as the rust is. Both rust and vinegar etch steel, pit steel, which causes them to rust faster the second time around. No thanks.

I’m not gonna tumble 600+ traps in a cement mixer to shine them up.

But I can dye and wax 600+ traps in about 8 hours.

It’s a great deodorizer. I pressure wash all my traps before dying. But I can pressure wash a skunked up trap till my eyes bleed and still smell skunk.

And it’s the only treatment (besides wax), I can use one day and catch coyotes with the next. Plus, I firmly believe waxed traps function better and better resist freezing down in nasty, wet and freezing conditions.

I’ve used a lot of dips. Every one I’ve used needs time to air out, and time to cure before use.

New traps can just be degreased and waxed. But with use comes rust.


Good post,agree 100%

x3 With the caveat that I am dipping all my newer canine traps in white paint for snow use. I've got to air them for a while though, and they don't hold up to rust as well as dyed and waxed traps.

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