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Re: Tomatoes [Re: Rat_Pack] #7660830
08/29/22 06:33 PM
08/29/22 06:33 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,500
Northern Nevada
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Bob Offline
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Bob  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,500
Northern Nevada
Originally Posted by Rat_Pack
Blossom end rot was tough on my San Marzanos this year. Thought I had that stuff beat, but it came back with a vengeance



Blossom end rot, more often than not, is caused by inconsistent watering. Second most often is nutrient imbalance


"I have two guns, one for each of ya."
Re: Tomatoes [Re: nate] #7660846
08/29/22 06:57 PM
08/29/22 06:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 526
Tipton, In.
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RHuff Offline
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RHuff  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 526
Tipton, In.
I knew an old guy locally that told me to throw two tums in the hole when I plant my Tomatoes and Peppers. I have done this for years. I buy the big bottles of generic Tums from the dollar store. I also only use Miracle Grow that is specifically formulated for tomatoes and probably see two or three tomatoes with blossom end rot each year. I plant 50 - 60 plants each year here Central Indiana. This year they are ripening later than usual but plants are still healthy and lots of green tomatoes on the vine.

Re: Tomatoes [Re: RHuff] #7660878
08/29/22 07:57 PM
08/29/22 07:57 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,158
East-Central Wisconsin
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bblwi Offline
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bblwi  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,158
East-Central Wisconsin
Interesting as well for me. I put the date on all my lids. Last year my first batch of salsa was August 21st. This year August 28th. We had a cooler than normal first 3 weeks of May. I did wait a bit longer but I am sure it took some time for the soil to warm up. As to fertilizer. All I am using now is composted sheep manure with straw bedding.

Bryce

Re: Tomatoes [Re: nate] #7660975
08/29/22 09:45 PM
08/29/22 09:45 PM
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,936
NC
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bowhunter27295 Offline
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,936
NC
Blossom end rot can be stopped with calcium nitrate as your fertilizer. Been using it for three years now and I don't have BER. That sounds bold and like bull crap but it really does work. Mix a man handful in a 5 gallon bucket and put ~4 gallons in it. Fertilize each plant with a 1 cup measuring cup full every two weeks. When it starts to set flowers add a handful of potassium nitrate. Best mater I have ever grown.

Water consistently to get 1 inch per week considering rain. Do not over water. It makes for shallow roots.

Plant disease resistant varieties. Lots more success. I planted purple and lemon boys, english breakfast, red snapper, summer pick, sun sugar, tachi and fig tomatoes. I will not plant fig tomatoes again. Split too easy.

Spray weekly with fungicide and insecticide whether they need it or not. Prevention not reaction. This works well if you want to go organic. Know when to not go organic. Adult squash bugs, adult leaf footed bugs, japanese beetles, june bugs, curculio beetles. These guys as adults require synthetic insecticides to be effective.

Good fungicides are liquid copper, baking soda and some of the other systemic synthetics. Make sure the systemics are designed for vegetable gardens. Blight SUX!!

I don't like it but a dead plant makes nothing.

I cannot say any louder how effective calcium nitrate is at preventing BER. I just plain works. Works great as a side dress also.


ďA long time ago being crazy meant something. Nowadays everybody's crazy." - Charles Manson
Re: Tomatoes [Re: nate] #7661951
08/31/22 07:16 AM
08/31/22 07:16 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,994
So. IL
pintail_drake04 Offline
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pintail_drake04  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,994
So. IL
This year, it was Heirloom Roma, Beefsteak, and Brandywine tomatoes. I have a few hundred pounds in the freezer yet to process.

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