I know most use conis but have a buddy who wants to get some footholds for them what is your preference ?

My go to for gulos is the MB 750 W

No BS canine extremes. I've tried V-14's, mb 650's, misc. longsprings, but by far, my favorite is the NO BS canine extreme.
On special request, Kendall built 2 dozen closed jaw for mad_mike and myself. They have yet to be defeated by wolverine, (and even a few wolves).
The powder coating they come with is incredibly durable, fully adjustable pan tension, and built like a tank.

2x
Back in the day when I was trapping them, I preferred 330 BGs. If I was to chase them now with footholds, I would go with the MB750W (with 3/8 offset jaws). The strength, the toughness, adjustable pan pressure and the price! When a wolf comes in to the set you're ready (unless lots of crusty snow/ice).

Jack

I also am a big fan of the MB 750W for wolverines if you can control the snow cover (under the canopy of a tree). I also really like the Bridger #3 CS 4-coiled and laminated. Been a great wolverine, lynx and coyote trap for me. I do put the MB 750's in my Catch-all sets when there is a good chance of a wolf messing around the set. I do like to keep the chain looped around a tree so it can go round and round without getting hooked up and focus on the trap. Lots of swivels never hurts either

A trap big enough to hold them but that does not allow them ready access below the jaws.

I have lost them with:

Bridger #5 coils (high holds, excessive vulnerable space under jaws; will no longer set for wolverine)
Victor #4 LS (toe hold) and perhaps others.

I have held one in #9 (high high hold on female, so smaller, wolverine. Excessive in my opinion)

I prefer a #4 JUMP. They have a wide jaw spread but limited room below the jaws because of the spring. Best in a one way approach so they come in opposite side from spring.
2nd place Victor #4 dls. Harder to get a multiple toe/pad catch due to smaller jaw spread but if you get a good hold on one, limited space below jaws.

I have no experience with the 750

330 is the go to for sure.

The 330 is the way to go.
If you leghold you have foot damage plus you have to shoot them, more damage.
if you are trapping for experience and are going to keep the wolverine for a hat or wall hanger use whatever you have laying around. If you use along chain and visit regularly you will be fine.

An additional swivel within a few inches (3-6") of the trap always seems to help.
Hook them solid or use a steel drag.
Check frequently and keep in mind when dispatching, the skulls are worth money.

14 jumps is what i like.

Well, a V-14 is basically a cast jaw #4 jump with teeth. After losing 3, (including one nice enough to leave a toe), and holding one by 2 toes, I got rid of them. Always set in tight cubbies, stepping sticks, spring away from approach.
Get full feet, now, with coils.

Question, several like the 750W with the wide 3/8" offset, while AV and mad mike like closed jaws. Why the descrepancy? I would think the wide offset to prevent frozen feet, but then I'm assuming AV and mad mike want closed jaws to prevent pullouts, so if pullouts were an issue I would think the 3/8" offset would be much worse than the 1/4"?

Obviously I can't trap wolverines and have never looked at ones foot up close, so I am just wondering why you each prefer such different jaws?

I want closed jaws do to toe holds, more than anything. Not just one toe, mind you. While I have not seen a catch on video, or in person, what I have seen is that a majority of foot-hold caught wolverine are caught either by the toes, or between the pad and toes.
I have had full feet, but that has been the exception.
I have to assume that they enter my tight cubbies cautiously, and from what little sign they leave at a catch site, don't rush in.
I see little advantage in off-set jaws with wolverine.
All that said, others have taken many more than I.

I hesitate to say anything, what with all the wolverine experience in the thread. I never caught a wolverine, and only ever caught two wolves, both in snares.

But I set a lot of foothold traps for wolves and wolverines. In the snow-thaw-freeze cycles of south-central Alaska, I didn't care for the MB-750. They seemed to freeze down easier than the wire-levered traps like the CDR.

Jim

In my experience the foot will freeze regardless of any offset. I prefer the offset because it allows the levers to close higher on the sides of the jaws. and also MIGHT allow less forest detritus or snow to be caught between the jaws.

The only wolverines I have ever lost were from a #4 Victor LS and a #14 victor Jump.

Nothing that has fired a MB750w has ever gotten out..........including wolves.



That's a valid point Jim about the type of snow affecting the performance of the MB 750. The CDR 750 is a wonderful trap but the Paws-i-Trip Pan system on them is too fragile for wolverines. Every time I have caught one in a CDR the pan and dog have been destroyed.

Also, when the two traps are compared it's pretty obvious that there is more space under the jaws of a CDR than the MB 750. Not a good thing where gulos are concerned. Setting for a back foot catch seems to reduce their inclination to chew.

Maybe a species specific trap for wolverine would be good,with a double jaw perhaps.
Would take a lot of input and testing by wolverine trappers to weigh the advantages/disadvantages of design like double jaws in far northern climes.

I've used and still do to an extent MB750s for wolves. You state my issue with them exactly. They are a good dry ground trap, in my opinion. As White17 says, the only thing I've ever had pull out of them are hooved game, which is good. But they are the worst trap I have ever used for freeze/thaw conditions. And even if they aren't froze down they simply don't have the power to come up through the crust, or the jawspread to come up through several inches of snow on a wolf. Pictures I have seen posted of them set for wolverines they are often left uncovered, which aleviates half the issues, then you only have to keep them from freezing down.

I've given thought to a double-jaw trap, but figured it was just another point to freeze down, and another thing to push through the snow.
I would much prefer to catch them with coni-type traps, but so far, I have had nothing but refusals with buckets, milk crates, and boxes.

Hope this picture posts. This is an un-lucky fisher that found a set made for an educated wolverine that lost a toe to a V-14.
The gulo would return, but dig through the back if the set, never approaching the entry, again. So, I set a MB750 just outside the entrance, and a Bridger #5 Ak., behind. These wete rigged for wolves, with 10' of chain. I forgot to shorten said chain.
My mistake.

This is why I like closed jaws for them.

Apologies for the poor picture quality. Taken with an old android phone, several years ago.

Thanks guys I have pointed this info on to him he will figure it out from there he is just looking for something to get the coninrefusal
Ones in

I am no expert on wolverine….caught my 7th on this past Sunday.
I have caught 4 now in NO BS Beaver Xtremes with 3/8” offset. No issues with the offset and 3 of the 4 were toe caught. I like how the offset allows the levers to lock up higher. Being offset also doesn’t relieve any pressure on the foot at least not the way most think it does…if anything there is less pressure due to the levers locking higher and springs being under slightly less tension, which I would guess would lead to less chance of them chewing on their caught feet.

I WAY, WAY prefer live traps for many reasons. One of which is because I skin them on the spot and can use them as bait to reset. I see no use in packing the whole carcass all the way out and letting it freeze before skinning, other than taking time to skin them in limited daylight.

I also constantly had issues with birds pecking on dead critters and the occasional wolf or wolverine ripping apart a critter dead in a trap. Due to these reasons and more, I use footholds almost exclusively these days, other than for covering backdoors to cubbies with snares for sneaky animals. There isn’t much I can do about wolves coming across a live animal in my footholds, but critters can defend themselves from most other predators and scavengers if they’re kept alive.

Live traps, how about some pictures. That would be cool to see a wolverine in one!
.

I thought that at first, but I think he means traps that hold the animal alive, ie footholds rather than conibears.

No kidding!

Correct. I prefer footholds to keep the animal alive, NOT cage type live traps.
I apologize for not being clear.

I recall Dr. Audrey Magoun mentioning that she had used "cage traps" to catch wolverines up in NW Alaska. To collar and then track them.

If I recall correctly, they were made of chain link fence material. I also heard her say that occasionally a wolverine was able to CHEW THROUGH and escape!

Now THAT is tough...!!!!


Pete

Audrey did a pretty extensive study here in southeast, and another multi-year study was done by a couple biologists here in Juneau.
They tried multiple contraptions, but finally settled on site-built log enclosures, with a treadle trigger, and a drop-down, hinged lid, also made of logs.
I have read the study, and pertinent paperwork, and had some good conversations with the guys that did the work. Some good laughs, and some real insight.

Here is a picture of a wolverine trap used for study on the North slope. I did a job at Toolik lake research station a few years ago. There were some scientists studying wolverine, I made a quick run with one of the guys one day. Not a great pic, but you can see the notch in the 2x4 that holds the lid closed when gulo jumps in there. It can be a little sporty getting the sedative shot placed. Unfortunately there were no customers when I was out there.

I’ve landed wolverines with a #2 1/2 single long spring to a Bridger #5 and just about every size between. I catch at least 1-2 every year in a bridger #5 double long spring. Most of the smaller traps end up with a toe hold or multi toe hold. I have yet to loose one with those #5s. There was an old wise wolverine about 5 years ago that would go around digging up all my traps. I finally caught him in a wolf snare after a month of him teasing me

There was a guy here back in late 70's that built a couple live traps for wolverine out of old 55 gallon drums.
I remember the front looked like a guillotine, heavy plate slid down when triggered and in the back he had a 12x12
section cut out and a piece of old punch plate, with 3/4" holes, welded there. His theory was if a wolverine got caught he
could dispatch it through the holes in the punch plate.
I wasn't there to witness but he did end up catching one and he said it was memorable!
When he pulled up to it he said it sounded "like an old washing machine w/worn out bearings on the spin cycle" !
That was a good enough picture for me!

^^^^^^
About 15 years ago I visited that Steve guy out of Haines who has four live "pet" wolverine. They made noises that sounded like running a Skill saw through sheet metal.

What are your guys thoughts on 48 Newhouse's for wolverine?

Now that would be a place worth visiting. Does he still have them?

Boy that does paint a vivid picture. LOL Some people sure get creative. Why did he choose to build such a contraption instead of just using conventional traps or snares?

I applied as support personnel for that job but never heard anything back. Sounded like a fun paid vacation. Wonder what came of there research?

That makes me wonder if anyone has had issues with wolverine chewing through wire spring levers on foot holds? I know they chew on everything but those wire spring levers are pretty dang stout.

I believe so, at least he did recently. Steve kroshel, or something like that. He used to have a business that provided video footage of wildlife and snow avalanches to various film producers. It looks like he has now converted his place into a tourist trap on the cruise boat circuit.

He is a different sort of character, at the time I met him he wasn't totally opposed to consumptive use, he knew I was a trapper, but I have a hunch he may be pretty soft on the subject now.

I think wolverine skull buyers prefer wolverine with undamaged teeth?

Kind of a cool place up there. Not sure what became of the research, maybe it was published in a scientific journal or something. I was doing a construction project, so not directly involved in the research.

Dirt, I agree, I think a coni caught skull would be more desirable.

I have found the 48's work just fine. I'm a NH guy, but 114's have more space UNDER the jaw, thus affording more of an opportunity for chewing. Not that the animal would escape, but once the paw is numb and chewed, your taxidermy marketing options have been reduced.

Bottom line is that after 330's, I prefer the NH 48s.

Pete

Correct. A green wolverine skull is worth about $60, if it is a good one.

Sows are notorious for chewing on footholds and chipping teeth. Boars seem to chew branches off trees when caught, but not on the trap itself. That is my experience at least. That is one negative when using footholds, no doubt. On the other hand, 330s have smashed skulls for me on occasion.

Those K9 Extremes are pretty much going to be my forever go to trap for wolverine. They have also caught and held very well six wolves for me so far, and not just dumb dink pups.

If I do my part setting them, they simply work. They leave no room to chew under the jaws and are of solid construction. Haven’t had one yet that needed repair after a catch.

MB’s are the second best, but trail far behind Kendall’s traps for a purpose wolverine foothold, IMO. The K9 Extremes are far and away easier to set and manage throughout the season than the over engineered MB’s.

While we are on the subject of wolverine traps.

Do you all cover your traps with wax paper and a skiff of snow or leave them uncovered?

I do the wax paper routine and cover with snow but only because of the remote possibility of a wolf coming by. I don’t use much for guide sticks and try to leave cubbies really open to hopefully make any curious wolves feel more comfortable. If I were after wolverine only I would use the wax paper to prevent freeze down but that is it. Exposed traps don’t seem to bother them.

If it is supposed to snow soon, I leave them uncovered and let the naturally falling snow do its thing.

I have been covering mine with wax paper and a light covering of snow in the hopes a fox or coyote will come to the set if a wolverine doesn't.

Ha ha my dad had some live traps like an old barrel i need to refurbish. One for sure i know where it is.

Bump, just because I LOVE catching wolverines…

Congrats on your nice catch!

Are those Maine Guide snowshoes? I just ordered a set of bindings from them and like the upturned tips on their snowshoes.

Tinman, that's pretty cool. How far are you slogging in to get those wolverine? From what I gather, you do your trapping on foot, don't use a snogo at all? That will keep a guy in shape, doing that in the high country. Do you skin those up there, or haul down a little lower to find a tree to hang on for skinning?

Darn nice GULO there and just as nice a picture.

Thanks folks.

Yes, those are Maine Guide Rabbit Hunters. Great snowshoe for most everything but climbing hills. Their bindings are OK, but I do slip out of them more often than I do with other bindings.

I do have a snowmachine, but honestly prefer not to use it for trapping, for a lot of reasons. One of the bigger reasons is it does absolutely keep me in shape. I hike 4-5 miles each trap check on snowshoes and bail off into drainages that nobody else goes into. That eliminates competition from other trappers and makes the chances of catching a sled dog almost zero. Most any road or snowmachine accessible area around Fairbanks is way over trapped. I prefer to keep critters alive in footholds for reasons stated in my earlier post, plus since I am on foot, I don’t want to pack out a whole, frozen carcass and skin them at the nearest tree. That, and I like my pictures. Frozen critters in bizzair poses don’t make for good pics.

Skinning stuff when it is warm is way easier, and I second you on packing out carcasses. The upturned toes on snowshoes are a must have in the steeper terrain we have here, plus our milder weather means we often have snow with a light or multiple layers of light crusts. Light enough that the snowshoes will bust through it a couple inches, but if the toes aren't turned up enough the toe tends to slide under the crust when you go to take a step and trip you up, especially if you are in a hurry. I don't know how you navigate the hills on any sort of crust though without cleats on the bottom of those snowshoes, I would end up in the bottom of those drainages you mention in a pile, in short order.

Nice pic and nice wolverine!

Thanks Bearcat. Where in Idaho are you? I grew up in Burley and went to U of I in Moscow.

I do have star studs on those snowshoes. They help quite a bit though I still slip and fall on my (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) on occasion. Even with the upturned toe, I still manage to catch it on the underside of crust every so often.

Forward I fall…..

Great strategy.

Looks like neoprene binding or if not I would not use those you have. Get a set of GOOD leather ones. Best money you can spend.

I'm about 25 miles east of Moscow.

Kendrick or maybe Deary area?
I sure loved the turkey hunting near Southwick and the Steelhead fishing near Ahsahnka before the natives blocked access.

I live about three miles south of Deary. If I want to shoot a turkey all I have to do is go out in my yard. Have more of them around here than we know what to do with. I do quite a bit of cat and bear hunting down around Southwick at times, they've been doing so much logging down there the last couple years that you can't hardly fight your way through the log trucks to get to a place to hunt.

The Potlatch Canyon that runs down to Kendrick is just a half mile behind my place, used to be able to leave from my place and hunt my way into it, because Potlach Timber owned the ground behind me, but they sold it to all the Texans that have moved in and they built a bunch of houses on it and posted it all.

Without putting too fine a point on it, where are you trapping, off the Steese? I've thought about trying to hike into some drainages down here off the Rich using some of the strategies you have. Been trapping for years and still haven't caught a gulo. They are not in my area.

The good ol Wilkes brothers, burning bridges with the locals in every state they're in.

Actually these are Plowshares from down by Waco. They are buying up everything locally and moving in a few hundred of them. The Wilkes brothers are just blocking access to the southern Idaho hunters, so we are seeing a lot of them up here during hunting season now.

Yes, up the Steese but in a very nonchalant area others overlook.

Are you trapping up in the high country? I never had any luck down in the timber.

I'm in the flatlands and timber. Need to find some high country.

I have done a lot of trapping in the flatlands and timber of the lower Nowitna, small. Always caught wolverine there. I'm surprised there aren't any where you are.

I've been in this area for a few years. I figure that if there were any wolverine around they would have at least stolen a marten or torn up a cat set at some point. I've only once seen tracks that i thought may be wolverine, that a few years ago in March.

Didnt see the Sleepy Creek 4-1/2 offset mentioned. Dont think they make them anymore but they are a great wolf/wolverine trap.