Axes!

Among my hobbies, I really enjoy working with old axe heads. Its fun to work with one that you get for $5 and turn it into a viable tool. Just finished an old Sager Chemical Double Bit a guy gave to me. Next project will hopefully be a 2.5 lb double bit cruiser axe. If anybodies got one they are looking to part with, let me know! Anybody else enjoy working on and with axes?

I was cleaning up some junk in the woods a couple of years ago and found a 4 lb Plump felling axe head under an old car door. It cleaned up great and I was going to hang it on the wall so I blued it, but I couldnt find the handle I wanted so I wound up putting a regular single bit handle in it and started useing it. The blueing lasted along time but it is rusty again now, but still a sweet cutting axe.

I like old hatchets,I only use one at a time but like buying them as I can.

norlunds are my favorite

I love old axes! I have collected a few cruisers and they are my favorites. Axes are starting to get really popular right now and good deals are getting harder to find.

Here is a Kelly cruiser I fixed up.

What do y'all look far in a good axe?

X2

I picked up a 2 1/4 pound Winchester head at a garage sale a few weeks ago and just put an old handle on it to make it functional. I won't put it to wood but it is pretty cool. I pick up old axes and hatchets and fix them up..pretty fun for me too. Oh, by the way, I paid 50 cents for the Winchester head and two bucks for the handle. I now have 16 hatchets and 5 axes.
This is the latest in which I have $2.50 invested:

Name, is a good place to start. Kelly, Collins, Plumb, are ones I am familiar with, but there are several other U.S. made axes that are very good.





Charlie

I look for an older one. All of mine are well over 50 years old. If it is a loose head I will hold it up with one finger in the eye and ring it like a bell with a piece of metal. It should have a high pitched long ring to it. This is not a proven method to tell quality of the steel but think it is worth doing.

You also need to decide what you are going to use it for mostly so you can pick the right pattern head. I will not buy one with a metal or plastic handel!

Would like to find a big old double headed ax to use in a fisher mount I have in mind.

I like wetterlings myself.

Go to the thread "Check this Out", I just posted. Lots and lots of COOL traps and AXES.




Charlie

It is hard to go wrong with an old American made axe head. They made 'em right back in the day. Swedish and German steel is also excellent. Use a belt sander to get a rough edge, but go sparingly and make sure you don't get the steel hot. Then use a (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) file and a stone to get yourself a good edge. Get yourself a good handle made from hickory or ash. You are set to go!

Very nice axe, MN Man. Great find

Like mentioned above, older ( pre 1970) US axes can be some of the best ever made, pre 1940's even better.

Marshall Wells, Hickory, Collins, Winchester, many good brands. Even some small chips in the blade and light mushrooming in the poll can be belt sanded away and made like new. Hanging a handle can be an art, take your time fitting a new handle.

I've worked on a few ole axes. Enjoyed bringing back to life.
Last winter I remembered some not so good leather I bought at a yard sale.
Figured I make a few sheaths for my axes.
Here's a sheath I made for my camp axe...


Here's sheath for my camp axe and a friends camp axe...

That was fun making the two sheaths for camp axes so I made sheaths for two single bit axes I had in the shed.
If anyone has some leather laying around and wants to put it in service,
Here's the link that helped me with the sheaths...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q6hHgTDMmGo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THMIqqI_hpE

Love bringing old axes back to life. I usually just grab heads that I figure I can use and put a handle I want on it. Never really cared about maker.

I was up to Johnney Thorpes one day, many years ago. And i acquired this from him ... He was on the old military road in his home town of Stoney Creek. He had been rooting around an old stone wall fence and out came this axe head. There is no marks on it so it cant be referenced. But its Big. He thinks it was Revolutionary War or French and Indian war era... He had said as big as it was, it was a tree felling axe head because of it size.. Any input ?

Glad to know I'm in good company here. I admit to being an "axeholic".

Don't know much about any of them. But it's fun to collect, handle, and look at them.

Wife asked what I wanted for Fathers Day, Gransfors Bruks axe was my reply. Have to decide between the Scandanavian Forest and the American Felling...

Decisions, decisions, decisions.

Mike

TTT

I want one from the Taiga Forrest region, like the old trapper in "Happy People" has.



Heavy head with a straight, thin bit, and a short sturdy handle.




Charlie

Me too. Anybody have an idea what kind it was or an equivalent?

I'm sure his was handmade, but there are some of that style on Amazon. I believe those are made in Bulgaria or some such. the shipping is as much as the axe itself, and I would question the quality.




Charlie

any body ever run across a double bit with the name "Boston's best" ?

Do a "russian axe" search on ebay. Most are hatchet-sized ( 14" handle, helve, haft, whatever. )

The "Russian pattern" has several names... Arkhangelsk, Petrograde, etc... all difficult to locate.

Mike

Seeing this post just reminded me, while tilling my garden the other day, I found what looks to be an old double bit head. Rusty of course but in pretty decent shape, about 8-9 inches long. Old farmhouse shown on the 1875 map. I know nothing about them, where would one look for a makers mark?

The mark should be on one side of the eye. You may have to polish the steel to see it.
Harry Epstien company had real russian military surplus axe heads, I bough 4, re sold 3 and kept one for myself.
I got the last ones. Mine is really good for swamping, or limbing felled trees. I use it often. The steel is good and I can cut roots without dulling. I have no rocks here though.
Here is a poor picture of it, you can't see the whole head.

It is sporting a straight handle till I make a good one. It is no good for splitting but really good for chopping or hewing.

I would say Otter04, that that is a felling axe head. I have no clue on when it was made, however.

Here is a Swedish Hults Bruks axe, very excellent, sold under the Husquvarna brand, good value!

It's an awesome chopper!
Here is an old Finnish axe, they are different but truly great axes, good luck finding one , I have not. They quit making them around 1950 or so

It's either a Billnas or Kellokoski
Here is the blueprint for the handle

They had a strange looking long socketed eye, due to the fact that birch was the hardest wood they had and is much softer than hickory. It would break off fairly quickly with a normal American eye and hard use.

Never could use any tool with that elbow twisting down turned handle.

Collins made good axes but my favorite is a True Temper Kelly Perfect that I've used for fifty years or so. 4 1/2# IIRC My first ax was a double bit Plumb 2 1/2# for Christmas of my seventh year, that and flannel shirt were Christmas.

Bluegrass excellent ax.

Actually the curve in the end of the handle allows your wrist to remain straighter. It probably depends on what is comfortable for you.

I have wanted to post on this thread for a while but haven't had time. Someone asked for reccomendations on an axe. The "right" axe will all depend on the user. Over the past few years I have searched high and low for the best axe and have settled on what I have found to be the best so far. First question is, what are you going to use this axe for? If you're just going to throw it in the woodshed or the bed of your truck, don't worry about spending a lot of money. A cheap axe will serve you for what you need. If you use an axe often and use one year round, then it makes sense to splurge and get a good tool. I use an axe all year and a couple times a week, so it only makes sense for me to get a good one. A lot of people seem to like the fiskars. Personally I don't. Once they are dulled you can't sharpen them with a file and if you break the handle you're done for. I also see a lot of people with estwing axes. I have 2, the 14 inch hatchet and the 26 inch axe. I like them both. I wouldn't want to use them every day and they wouldn't be my first choice, but they are very good tools. They take a good edge and hold one. My only problem is that they are uncomfortable to use because of the all steel handles. What I have found to be the absolute best axe so far is a 28" Snow and Nealley axe with a 2 1/4 pound head. The wooden handle flexes during use which makes them comfortable to use. They also seem to take a pretty good edge. I believe that a 1 3/4-2 3/4 pound head with a 22"-28" handle will serve you best for all around use. That's just my opinion.

Alex

Here are a few. Left to right, Russian in the front, Marshall Wells "Hand Made" double bit, Hult Bruks Swedish, Marshall Wells Zenith, Kelly Howe Thompson Hickory, and my big "Warren" splitting axe.

The Swedish is the newest, bought new last winter, the Russian is 1982 army surplus, the others are 50 to 100 or more years old.
They all get used. The big Warren single bit has split 100's of cords of wood. I bought the head for 3 bucks in 1976, when a kid dug it out of the ground when we were building a log cabin and placing rock footings.
I have lost axes in the past, hence the colored tape or paint on some.

Axe head details
Zenith, (head bought for 5 bucks at a junk shop, a few nicks removed and smoothed up)

Very fine 3/4 axe! My favorite for trapline

The Russian axe and the Hults Bruks "Husquvarna "

The Russky is a great limbing and general purpose axe, fast chopper! Not good for splitting The Hults is a superb axe, second favorite at the moment. I chopped out most of the parts for my sled with the Zenith or the Hults

More work to do on it later.

My old "Hickory" spent decades in my hand and in my pack, the blade is nearly worn to a nub


It has a home made handle of ash, with a rounded octagonal cross section. I would mourn its loss.

I had a Keen Kutter that I only used for cutting down a Christmas tree every year. It is with a friend in VA.

Not sure if you would call this an axe but it's a Marshall-Wells

^thats a beautiful axe!

Yes that Marshall wells Zenith broadaxe is a beaut! Zenith was top of their line.

Yessir, thats a broadaxe. Used for making straight cuts in wood used for building. Probably weighs quite a bit.

Right handed at that. Watched a guy square a log with a square, a chalkline, a broadaxe, a regular axe and an adze. The adze impressed me as rather dangerous for his toes. The guy was good he could take a full stroke that stopped just short of the end of his boot.
I can only wish I was that good.

Here's a good read.

http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recr...pdf99232823.pdf

Watched a guy at Silver Dollar City hewing these out with a broad axe.

Mike

Well, this post got me to look through my "stuff" to see what I had in the line of hatchets and axes that I had accumulated over the years from various garage sales. I found these. My reasoning for all the cheap hatchets was I often would forget one at the trap site so I thought I should have a few spares on hand. I have only lost one so far so I should be good for a while. I get them cheap so it is kind of fun to find an old one and fix it up so it is functional.


The first axe on the left is a Stro Bro from Sweden 2 1/4 # that I paid one dollar for. The next is the Winchester that I have $2.50 into and the third is an Idunno that I paid $2.00 for and refurbished.

I missed out on a Norlund Hudson Bay axe today at a garage sale. A friend called and said he saw one for $8.00 but he did not get it because he has several and it was pretty rusty. When I rushed over there it was gone (of course). Dang!

I see you have the same disease

Probably less costly than collecting traps.....
And I see I ain't the only one that paints my trapping hatchets orange....

How do you define a Cruiser axe ? Why were they named this ? I do know what cruising timber means. Were they carried by a timer cruiser ?

Some cool old axes guys..and hatchets too. Thanks for the pics!

Yes they were. Up here the original cruiser axe is a Hudson Bay pattern axe on a 20-28" handle. That's what I have always been taught in forestry. More widely know is the double bit cruiser axe which is a 2.5 pound head with a 28" handle double bit.

Alex

The timber cruisers preferred to use these small axes to blaze trees because of their light head (+\-2.5#) and short handel (26-28"). The only true way to tell is the size of the eye. 2.5"x5/8" or close to that.

I like a double bit axe, don't know why the single bit is so popular.

My dad was the only one I ever saw twist the axe when splitting wood. Never get the axe stuck in the block doing it that way.

Jim

Here is a 2 1/2 lb. Plumb cruiser that I keep in my truck.

This is a Collins Hudson bay that I fixed up to keep in the Jeep.

Never handled a double bit. Never found the need for one. I prefer to have the poll and my axe for driving stuff. I know it's the cardinal sin of an axe but when I'm snowshoeing into beaver flowages in the winter I'm not going to lug a hammer just to drive nails. That's what I have the back of my axe for. I also use it for driving fencing sticks. Also with a double bit axe you can't stick it into the back of your belt and carry it Indian style. I find it very handy to carry that way at times.

Alex

Cruiser axes are also 8 1/2 inches long or less.

That's a sweet Hudson Bay pattern Collins, Mttwill!
My very first axe was the same, I bought it for 7 bucks corn picking money in about 1971. My dad had a logging company and lots of cruiser double bits for the loggers, one of them took my Collins. Nobody would fess up and nobody thought it was a big deal except me.

Not really an axe, but a hatchet. Forged by a blacksmith near me. Going to look into getting him to make a single bit for use of the hammer as well. The first pic has his last name/mark on it.
Sharp as a razor as well.

I just picked up an Olympia double bit head at a garage sale yesterday and just now put a handle on it. The head was $3.00 and the handle was 3 times that (new).
Is there a cure for this addiction?

It's a terminal disease

Anyone know of a source of good handles?

I have had mixed results with House brand handles, first few were good then 2 broke off at the eye on axes in the first minutes of use, the hickory was red colored and seemed brittle. The all white wood handles seemed better. And I am very picky about handles and look through a whole pile to find the one I want.
There may be other brands that are more consistent, or my supplier is getting factory seconds and selling them as firsts. Most people think a handle is a handle. But we axe nuts know different.

+1 on a source for handles

I have had very good luck with house handels. I pay the extra for the hand picked and no lacquer. When you order make sure you dont click the seconds.

Plumb victory,I seen 6 axes go at auction last sat and I'm still sick I let them all go ,I stinking did not bid, I did snatch up a crosscut.

Oh my ,I shiver at the thought of using a DB axe much less carring one about on the line ! Awful ! IMHO

I prefer a double bit axe except when i'm trapping. They often balance better than their competition and I have come to like the versatility of two edges. I carry a small single bit forest axe while out and about trapping and bumming around.

Picked up a couple at the flea market today. Near as I can tell there isn't anything too fancy about them. Google searches weren't a great help. Histories varied and were somewhat murky.

A KellyWorks Woodslasher double bit.

Lakeside double bit.

I'll see if I can post pics of them if anyone is interested.

Mike

House handles usually have pretty straight grain, alot of guys on other forums swear by em, with enough looking youll eventually find a decent handle at the hardware store...

Here's my little collection

I totally redid the double bit and the ones on the 28" and 36" axes, a quick soak in vinegar will handle most of em, had to take a grinder to the shiny one though. For bushcraft and hiking the wetterlings bushman is my go to though, the swedes have axe making perfected. Eventually I want to add a few Hudson bay heads and maybe a Rockaway (like the shape), the local spots are all sold out though.

Both good user bits. Kelly was out of WV and made several brand lines of axes woodslasher if memory serves was a good midgrade user axe of good make and temper.
Lakeside was a montgomery ward brand.

That's a fine collection there Bushwack.

Mike

You nailed it Warrior, the Lakeside, as mentioned, was Montgomery Ward's house brand. Most info I have come across puts my axe into the 50's or 60's era. But who can say for sure?

The Kelly Works is a little murkier as they moved several times throughout their history. No real way to discern any real age to it. Of the two axes, it is definitely in the roughest shape. It will take a lot of elbow grease to put any edge on it. Someone also rehung it with a cheap haft that is twisted about 30° off center at the bottom.

I'm glad to know that neither is too valuable to use. An axe should be cared for, but also used.

Mike

Great thread guys! Thanks for posting.

TTT for Lots of Mink

I wish I knew the maker of this old axe. My grandpa had it and used it a lot. It is well over 100 years old. No name that I can see. I use it all the time at the line shack.

I have a true temper black prince
can anybody tell me about them?
Its like bran new

Why would an axe/hatchet have a square hole right through the side?

Some heads are drilled for a cross pin to be installed to stop a head from flying off. I believe racing axes and heads used in competition are required to be pinned.
Not sure on a square hole though.

Found an old hatchet? with Belknap on the head anyone know anything about it? Sharpened it up and plan on using it. Put the question mark after hatchet cause not sure if you call it that as it has a hammer head on the side opposite of the cutting edge.

Hammer head could be a framer, riggers, lathing or roofing hatchet.

I recently bought a Husqvarna axe for my son in law. After looking it over, I decided I needed a new one for myself. Husqvarna is made by Hults Bruk so I paid the extra money for the same axe with the Hults Bruk markings. The differences between the two that I see are the Hults Bruk cutting edge has a mirror finish and is definitely shaving sharp. The Husqvarna has a much cheaper sheath that is fastened with a snap. The sheath on the H.B. is heavy leather with a welt and attached with a easily replaced leather thong. Price difference was about $50. Now, to get to the woodlot and try it out.

t

Doing some restorations right now, as well as enjoying some ones I finished up.



First is a Hudson bay Collins, seconds an unnamed hatched stamped "U.S.A"
Thirds a roofing hatchet I plan on modifying into a gransfors bruks style chopper, gonna remove the poll and reshape the edge

I almost forgot this one too.
Somebody didn't know what they were doing

That's axe abuse
Gonna cut it at the bottom of that chip and just use it as a nessmuk style belt hatchet.

My father was working all the time to provide for the family and myself while i was growing up. Needless to say, he didn't have a lot of time to take me outdoors, but when he did I appreciated the heck out of it. As a younger lad i played a lot of video games and sat inside. Now that I have a job, (and thankfully a bit of money to spend on toys) I find that i want to do things, or make things in reality. I just started trapping last year, and I am in the process of starting to renovate axes as well. Living in the middle of nowhere, I need a place to get wood for axe handles. Anyone know of a good company that makes axe handle blanks?

house handles is most people's go to, straight grain and multiple handle sizes.

Just picked up this bad boy...don't ask how much...but oh my...what an axe.

john neeman stalwort

you're a lucky man...
Neeman himself is supposed to have a new company called "autine" I heard, nonetheless both companies are still great, now go scratch it up and show us how it does

I would never waste a penny of my money on an Autine axe. The quality isn't there for the price. I would buy a Neeman. They should never be confused with each other.

they were both founded by the same guy, I feel like you watched the wranglerstar video on it...

I got it second hand, but the guy before me had never once used it. Was scared to mark it up, so I saved quite a bit on it...

Certainly a bit heavier than my gransfors axe, but I am hesitant to actually use it lol. It's just so...pretty lol

I have seen quality issues a few times. Their handles are very poor along with other issues. This is totally unexceptable at the prices charged. John Neeman company was a partnership and Autine is what came after the falling out.

Heres a couple i just finished cleaning and putting handles on...

Anyone carry a true temper tommy axe? I like the looks of them and my just have to pick one up.

Alex

A hatchet with a square hole in it is an old linemans hatchet , for cutting the flat "gain" in poles to bolt the crossarm on, the square hole is to hold the square bolt head when wrenching the nut on. Linemen have not used such axes for 60-70 years.

Thanks Dale, I've seen a few of those and wondered. Now I know.

That's cool. Thanks for the info Dale. I will sure keep that in the back of my head when I'm digging around in flea markets.

Mike

didn't know what you were talking about till I got one a few days ago, its still in the process of being restored but it looks like it has a nice thin bit on it, probably will make a good chopper.

I just purchased this from a guy in Canada, he spent a few years in Finland and this is his last one for sale.

It should arrive between today and Monday.
Now I have to make a handle out of birch.

how much do you pay for it? I like the looks of those old Finnish heads

$150 + shipping

An old timey RR shim axe.

That looks like the axe used in Finland to do " finish hewing" smoothing up the hewn surfaces after the building was erected.

This axe is a metal detector find, and was, supposedly, used in the Turpentine industry, in my area of Florida. I haven't verified that though.

When found, it had at least a quarter inch of flaking rust covering it. Gave it an Ospho treatment, and it didn't turn out half bad. It's been a couple of years since I did it, and it doesn't seem to have changed any.

Yep, thats a turpentine head for sure. Upper left of this chart:

Thanks for posting the chart, Bushwack. That's a handy tool to have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QXfVRZ_hF8g
Does any one add cord, leather or metal to there axe handles to protect them from over strikes? I hate seeing a good handle get chipped and chewed up. My son in law used this technique to cover about 3 or 4 " next to the head on a hatchet I have. He put the woven part on the edge that will bear the brunt of the hits. I haven't tested it out yet.

I wouldn't as that just the place you don't want to hold moisture and dirt.

Anybody buy one of the trapper axes in the Trappers Post? I'm looking hard!

Warrior, I don't see that as a problem for me. My handles have been well treated with boiled linseed oil, and the leather can be unlaced and removed between uses. The chord actually has spaces between the strands and should breathe. The chord will be more time consuming, but can be removed and redone when needed. Miley - If you are talking about the Snow & Neiley axes, I have heard that their heads are not forged in the U.S. any more.

Got a pair of husqvarna's for Christmas....splitting axe and a hatchet.

I put it on all of my axes I usually reach for when it comes time to do work, just make sure to wrap it tight or it slides right down the handle.

I wrapped 3" or so of my splitting maul with wire. I split a fair bit of wood since and no chips or nicks

An Axe to Grind

www.fs.fed.us › pdfpubs › pdf99232823

Snow and nealley axes have been made completely in the USA since last year. The Amish folks in Smyrna bought the name and moved everything to Smyrna and moved the entire production to the USA. Heads and handles are now both made in the US.

Alex

Mont, be curious to hear your reviews on the house husqvarnas, esp the splitting axe. I have been thinking of picking one up myself just haven't pulled the trigger. Any more pics and initial thoughts?

Check out Wranglerstar on youtube. I think he did a full review on it.

I love this thread. I'm gonna swallow some pride here though and admit that I'm horrible at putting new handles on. Any tips?

Practice!

Take your time and make sure your fit is good. It should fill the eye completely front to back if not you can cross wedge it. Cross wedging is cutting anot her curf for a wedge opposite the one that it came with. I also make sure my wedge is the full length of the eye.

Not sure what to think of the splitting maul yet.
seems light and too short of handle.
i haven't put it to work yet....just a couple logs poplar i had handy.
so not ready to pass judgement yet.

Here is a good review on the husqvarna.

https://youtu.be/W4bfCrLvfzQ

Trapper Les and I have the forest axe model of the Husqvarna, they were made by Hults Bruks in Sweden. Very good axes at less than half the price of the overpriced Swedish axes.

I've considered buy the Snow and Nealy ax pictured in the Trappers Post, havent decided yet.

Its because that's a splitting axe, same general logic as a maul, just easier on the body to swing. Wranglerstar has a video titled something like "Maul vs Splitting Axe"
It explains the pros and cons in more depth.

Trapper Les,

I bought one of those snow and nealy axes from trappers post last summer at the NTA convention in New York . I had people trying to buy it off me as i walked around with it , had to go hide it in the truck , they sold out of them in no time at all. Noonan said he never dreamed they'd sell that many or even more if they'd had them so they started stocking them to sell in the magazine.

I like it enough , i'm probably going to buy another one this year from them in Michgan at the NTA. Grandson will need it .

Now that's a nice One there

I heard a lot of talk about wetterling axes and bought one a year or so ago. They are expensive, but are fantastic axes! This is the forester model. I used a wood burner to make a ruler on the side of the handle and painted it orange.



I picked up this old Bridgeport boy scout hatchet (circa 1950's) at the flea last summer. The handle is steel with wood scales. I keep this in my trap basket. I know some would collect these, but it was missing wood from the knob, so into service it went.



This last hatchet I know nothing about. It has an "old english" letter 'G' on one cheek. It sharpens easily and has a fantastic edge.

I know that this is going to be like showing up on a duck hunt with camouflage that still has the tags on the sleeve, but I have the fiskars splitting axe. I've used several splitting mauls, but I really, really like this one. I like that it's light, and it doesn't wear me down, and it lets a person get some speed when swinging it. I have been splitting pecan, water oak, and red oak with it, and splitting them has been a breeze.


That being said, I do like finer things, and some of you have some very nice axes and splitting mauls. If I used an axe more, I'd probably look into getting one of those nice ones. The only axe I have is a double Michigan.

Let me ask this....For axes, do you prefer a double head or a single blade with the flat back? Why?

I prefer a single bit with a poll (the flat spot) for many reasons. They are usually lighter than a double bit axe, unless you have a cruiser double bit, which I don't have. I also find them safer to carry without a sheath, which won't last long on the line. I like the flat poll to be used to hammer things as well. I know it's considered taboo and isn't what the poll is intended for, but I don't want to carry a hammer just to pound a couple nails. I also use it to pound in wooden stakes for rat, beaver, and mink sets as well. I also will drive fence staples with it. Just never pound a metal stake with an axe. Pieces of the poll, which is a soft steel, and chip off and become as dangerous as a broad head being shot from a bow to you or bystanders.

Alex

Got the credit card out for that one !! Gonna order it tomorrow....been thinking about it way too long

I bought a S&N from Bob in Bethel, Maine 8/15 got home cked it over, decide that needed 4 more for the Grandsons. Picked them out at NYSTA in Frankfort. A nice Trail, Camp axe. Sharp objects on hold, starting recovery from PE /DVT on blood thinner. Tut

Depends on what im doing, for trapping or camping ill take a single (preferably with a hardened poll). For firewood duty or situations where a hammer isnt required i might grab a double.

This is very sweet thread!!!! Thanks fellas for all your post!!

I picked this up a couple weeks ago for 5 bucks.

Since beaver have been worthless, I have been making sleds, skis and axe handles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Qr4VTCwEfko
Here's a great video of how an axe is made back in the good old days. One of my favorite vids of all time as far as axes go. OSHA would have had a field day at this forge.

Enjoyed that video blackoak. Thank you.

Here's a few I use...
Plumb,Camp axe, 19" handle...




Stanley axe, 33" handle...







True Temper axe. I put on new 36" handle and rubbed in boiled linseed oil.

Sad that so much of that knowledge and craftsmanship has been lost.

I like seeing the flux slough off under the hammer blows... And I got a kick out of that gentleman lighting his pipe with that hot axe head.

Mike

A little more modern....yet pretty much the same process..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thWBfiUpe48 .....

Not once did I see him swing a hammer, or light his pipe off a red hot axe head. LOL. GB makes a very fine axe, but I would much rather have one of those semi- hand forged Pioneer axes shown being made in the video if available today.

I got a chance to look at all the Gransfors axes in Ely the other day , they are nice! I really like the hewing axe, and the price is not out of line, really.
The Wetterlings, Les Stroud axe, looks to be a great design, it would be a good trapline axe, better design than a Hudson's bay. The weak point on a Hudson's bay pattern is the small eye, if you don't have a very good handle, it could easily get loose in the small eye. The Les Stroud pattern has a lengthened eye, reminiscent of a finnish axe, making for a strong connection between the wood and steel.
It looks like and oversized carpenters hatchet, it would be very useful, it has some good features.

This old Billnas Finnish axe, with a new handle is on Ebay right now, it would be a very good axe.

But the shipping from Finland is a killer

Picked up this Norlund "saddle cruiser" today. I haven't weighed it yet, but it has to be less than 1.5 lbs.

nice axe love old axe,s have 1 or 2 my self. have 1 double bit. hand forged in good shape

That is pretty cool,oneoldboot. I am wondering if this small head isn't off of one of their double bit hatchet's?
I have one with a a similar head.
Compare...what do you think?

Getting the axe/hatchet sickness bad here. Lol Bought an axe today will get pics in a day or so. It's cool. Here's a plumb claw back and a craftsman.

Picked up this cool axe finally.

Almost done with this one. Gotta add some leather an make a leather sheath for it.

Any site that buys, sells, and trades axes and hatchets? I have a few that I don't need to hold on to.

I had a axe problem and you all are bringing it back! I will be hitting the sales tomorrow and I hope I find a few.

Pm me pics, I'd be interested.

If you do facebook, checkout "Axejunkies." There is buying and selling going on there.

Ive got a bunch of axe forging pics from our shop if you guys would like to see any.. We make a lot of axes and hawks..

I'd like to see the pics, KYBOY!
I had a lot of fun smithing till my health got poor.

Heck yea KY postem up.

http://www.hoffmanblacksmithing.com/#about

I need to quit opening this thread. Lol

Mike

Grabbed this one for 5 bucks today......

Pretty neat there dob. Got my eye on a couple in an auction this week.

Just picked up 6 more this week as a package deal. Can't wait until I can get them redone. Also 2nd the FB group lots of information there.

I've looked into buying this very axe. I like the hammer poll for light driving duty. Some of the reviews on Amazon noted that there were some quality issues with both the steel and haft. The positive reviews exceeded the negatives though. So it's possible a few lemons made it out the door... it happens.

If you get one, let us know what you think.

Mike

I had high hopes of scoring some traps at the flea market today, but did not succeed. However, I did find a nice Norlund hatchet.

Today's score.......

dob, the one stamped US.
Is that military issue? Who made it?
I saw 2 axes marked the same US at flea market this week. Didn't buy them.

I'm not sure, I would assume so. There is nothing else marked on it. I haven't looked it up yet. Maybe someone on here knows.

What lil I just researched, WWII issue axes/hatches was stamped with US on them. There were 3 sizes an looking at the pics the one I have matches.

Picked up this Kelly Axe & Tool Company hatchet this weekend. They were made in Charleston, WV from 1904-1930.

Found this axe resource today:

yesteryearstools.com

I got this one this spring, its a 1937-38 Finnish Army axe from the winter war with Russia. Its a Kellokoski 12/1 its unusual in that the blade is not used up, but the poll id beat up. Most Finnish axes this size are worn out and used up.

I hewed a curved birch for a handle while attached to the stump , then chopped it down and packed it home

I sealed the ends with bullseye shellac and let it dry for a couple weeks by the wood stove.

When nearly dry, I started shaping it using a Finnish army handle pattern.

I let it dry some more then fitted the head

Then I chopped down a big birch with it

Then I finally sanded it and put a linseed oil finish on the handle

Its a really good axe , weighs more than 5 lbs and cuts great

I bought this at flea market today. A fixer upper.
Very good shape, pole real nice and no nicks on cutting edge.
Looks like someone used it very little before they broke the handle...

Great thread! Just got a beware Gransfors small forest axe last week as a father's day present and love it.
Was at a friend's camper over the weekend and noticed a hatchet by the wood pilet, picked it up and saw it is a Winchester. Tried to talk him in to trading/selling it to me but he won't let it go. I asked him to please not leave it outside. In the end he asked me to take it and clean it up for him. My question is how much work do I do to it? It definitely needs sharpened a bit which is no big deal. Should I try to clean off some of the rust and if so any advice? Thought about trying to scrape the handle and treat it with linseed oil but not sure how it would turn out. Any and all advice is appreciated.

Can you post a picture of it? Would give a better idea of the condition.

I gave this ole axe a Vinegar bath...


Covered in Vinegar...


Vinegar took rust off with a little brushing.
Then coated with Ray's Gun Wax...






-To Remove Rust from Axe Heads-
Cover in Vinegar
Let sit for at least 24 hours. Time may be more if rust is heavy.
Use brass brush to remove remaining rust.
Dry
Clean with WD-40
Dry
Apply oil or wax to finish
*Youtube- Vinegar rust removal

Scored this Vaughn sub zero axe with original handle. Puget sound pattern I think. Anybody know much about this axe pattern?

I put this on another post but did not get any answers that looked like it would be the same. It was found on the Sequatchie River many years ago and the pic is from the 90's and the guy holding it was not the one who found it. It may have ben cleaned up or some thought maybe cast. The handle hole is round and has a small spike on top. Maybe some of you will have an idea.

My understanding is that the puget sound pattern was developed for the big diameter trees of the pacific northwest. Back when axes were used the initial undercut was made with a crosscut to make the bottom flat cut then the axe was used to take out the "wedge". On these big trees the axe had to have the reach to get into cuts measured in feet not inches. Many of those axes sported longer handles as well with many well over 40 inches.
From what I read this was also the high point of axe development and specialization with axes just for topping others just for swamping (clearing smaller stuff around the tree to be cut) and knocking the bark off prior to using the saw.

I forget where I found this one,My old oxhead is wore down from chopping bait and cutting chicots,so I will sharp and hang this one for this fall.

Some abused axe heads, here is what happens when you use a sledge on an axe, also if you have no idea how to keep your handle tight, these are common feeble attempts to fix head looseness.
Some people soak in water to tighten the handle in the head, it works, but, the wood swells, the wood fibers smash, the wood dries out, them becomes even more loose. It becomes a vicious cycle ending in a rotten handle and a head flying through the air endangering someone. Wood wedges are the best, if you have to soak a head soak it in linseed oil or pine tar. If properly hafted in the first place, you should only have to use a drift and tighten the wedge after driving the handle tighter into the head.
I lubricate the end that will go into the head, with linseed oil and pine tar, heated up. Helps the head go on easier and farther and preserves the wood too.

Here's the typical bad jobs

Sledging ruined a great Zenith

I will reforge, weld and repair it, but it will never be as nice as it could have been, if the user took care of it.

Be careful, vinegar can ruin an axe head. It can dissolve more steel than you want and make your head look like a moonscape.

Some good axe folks have been using a 10% solution of molasses and water to clean rust off. You have to soak for a longer time and I hear it can stink, but does a good job. I have not tried it yet. The steel guys from the Sheffield area do not like vinegar or electrolysis and they know steel.

I just bought a Belknap bluegrass axe today. It's in pretty good shape, any ideas on the value?

TTT

I'd guess around a hundred to the right person

Hi all,
Besides trapping coyotes in Wisconsin I do a little metal detecting, found these axes and such on a private parcel that was a logging camp in the early 1920,s. Seem to be a lot of Kelly hand made, can't tell for sure on some cause of the pitting. Anyway have a look

[img:gal:4851857c78833806ca]http://www.trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2016/08/full-48518-343057-image.png[/

The pics didn't load

Just means some Gov agency owned it, USFS, USDA etc.

http://s1160.photobucket.com/component/D...psvuoi0t_1.jpeg

I'll try this again, here are all the axes and logging stuff I found

Wow, Looks like some great finds!

I picked these two up today for 20.00. The one on the right is a plumb, not sure about the other.

Whats everybodys opinion on the old Craftsman heads?

I've heard good things about some of the older craftsman stuff.

Some finished ones.......

I found this dual grit sharpening stone by Lansky to be an excellent stone for hatchets and axes. I prefer using water instead of oil to keep it wet. They can be found for ~ $5-8. Fits comfortably in the hand and a back pocket.

I love this thread....

I just picked up an old GLF axe. NO rust. Handle may need to be redone though.

when i use a hatchet, i have an old craftsman one that i use. has held up great over the years...its always on board regardless..

Been picking up some axes and hatchets this summer. Here are a few of the military ones.

The first is WWI, second is WWII made by American Fork & Hoe 1945, and last WWI. This is stamped 323 machine gun battalion, which was part of the 83rd Division AEF.



Fork % Hoe 1945



323 MG BN

Anyone use a Husqvarna axe? I am pondering their multipurpose axe. I would really like to find a MANN tool company single bit. I have a double bit and love it.

Speaking of multi use,here's a handy little bugger.

Making a "pioneer axe." Very interesting video. You will want to watch this if you are an axe man (or woman).

pioneer axe

US Forest service marks all their stuff "US", If it was "GI" it would be green.

So I've been using my Husqvarna splitting maul for about a year. I split mostly chestnut oak rounds. I was was using it today and got to thinking how great its been. I rarely even use the axe. Sounds like a shotgun when that oak round cracks and those half-rounds just explode apart.

I bought one of the books on the the above site: axes and associated hand tools.

Excellent book! Has a vast amount of line drawings and info. A+

Due to scheduling, the wife and I exchanged gifts. She got me a Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. Man, this thing is gorgeous. The thought they put into the handle, metal collar, etc is a work of art.

I'll still use my Husqvarna maul as my go-to. Just did about 2 cords of oak for a neighbor. He saw how I moved through it and says he's getting one now.

My wife bought me a GB splitting maul a few years ago... For father's day IIRC.

I'm on the tall side. So a tad longer handle would suit me better. But other than that I have no complaints.

It is a well-made implement. Mine was forged by Matthias Blich.

Mike

Mine was made by Jonas Berglund.

This is an old axe my dad had. I cleaned it up and hope to put a new handle in it today. What info I could get is that the panther axes were made by Kelly.It has taken a great edge. The handle I took out of it was warped so bad it was not really useable.

I don't have a picture handy but I have a "C. HAMMOND PHILA CAST STEEL" lathing hammer/hatchet. I did a little research and it appears to have been made late 1800s or early 1900s. I'm thinking it is probably pretty good steel but I'm not sure. Anyone have experience with this maker?

They are real common.They seem to made of decent steel.

Thanks Dave, I don't do any roofing with it. I have carried it in the pickup as a combo hammer and hatchet for emergency purposes. I just didn't want to be using it if it was valuable.

This is an old broad axe head that has been in my family as long as I can remember. It has JB 9 stamped on it. Any ideal who made it. It rings unreal when thumped with a finger.

I have been using vinegar on some axes, but haven't been happy with the results. This is my first try at electrolysis.

On the below, notice at the top center, you can read the marker's stamp, "bluegrass" Louisville KY. This was not noticeable at all before cleaning it up. I took the axe out of the bath and wiped with a rag. This is what it looked like




On this side, after electrolysis, I took a wire wheel on a drill to it. It actually looks better than in the picture.

"Muskets and sabers win wars. But nations are built with axes and plows."

Mike

This is a small plumb scout hatchet I just cleaned up and put a handle in. This was my first try at making a handle also.

I have been using electrolysis to clean up axes and a vice. So far, it is working well. I think a wire wheel can work just as well on an axe with light surface rust, but electrolysis helps to get into those hard to reach spots.

This is what the container looks like.



This is what's soaking now. Will post an "after" pic in a couple days.

After ~ 36 hours of electrolysis. Took it out once in the evening and in morning to quickly hit it with a wire brush. Doubt I spent more than 2 minutes doing that total. I put back in just to clean out the areas with the mechanic parts.


Before



After

That turned out really nice.

Is Dale Torma from northern Minnesota still on here? That guy was a walking encyclopedia on axes, handles, hewing logs, making sleds, etc. I miss his posts. Nice job on that head Old Boot!

Zim

I don't think so, zim. I think I saw where it may have been a permanent vacation type of deal. Supposed to be on Facebook, though
I traded him a crosscut saw vise a while back. Got a nice short handled axe with a birch bark sheeth in return. Good guy to deal with. He knows his stuff.

Great job on the clean-up, Old Boot. I'm guessing that the electrolysis doesn't remove any metal, just rust? For a ignorant old-timer, would you get into the specifics on your electrolysis bathing system? I'd appreciate it much.

Jack

Hi Jack, it is rather simple. I will take pics of my set up in the next couple of days and post.

This is a link to the site that I referred to. I also watched a few YouTube videos. It is very simple. I get some pics of my set up in a couple days


rust removal

Tui's anyone?

I’ve got a partial bucket of axes in the trap shed and I think I remember couple marked sager. Anybody here use that brand or know if they are of good quality?

Sager are very good axes. Made by Warren axe and tool in Warren, Pa. Some are marked Sager Chemical. A Mr. Sager invented a chemical process to make the heads wear longer.

Just reading the current edition of trappers post and in there I found a ad for snow and nealley Hudson bay trapping axe and kindling axe.

They caught my eye. Little pricey but looks very good quality.

I just looked and one is marked sager and another with chemical axe. I also seen marks from Kelly, Marshall wells,Collins and others. I’ve resisted cleaning them or even looking at them because I collect enough stuff already. This thread is not helping.

Nothing fancy but I like my little Marbles. Its a constant companion in the truck and nearly as useful as a swiss army knife.

Elecrolysis.


There are many good YouTube videos on this and a good site that I posted the link for in a previous post. I ain't no science teacher, so don't be expectin' them types of details.

I used: 5 gallon bucket, 6 rebar stakes, wire, wire nuts, a bolt, eye bolt, piece of wood,and battery charger.



I cut the rebar to length, as I didn't want them above the top of the bucket. Next, I drilled a hole for each of the 6 rebar. This was a couple inches from the top of the bucket. I tried to keep them equidistant, but eyeballed it so it ain't perfect. I used copper wire, since it will be above the water line. To ensure good contact, I wrapped the wire around the rebar 3-4 times. Leaving about 1.5 inch tails that I fed thru the drill holes.




After having wrapped the wire around the rebar and putting the tail thru the hole, I joined them together with wire and wire nuts.



DO NOT join them all together! Leave a gap. I added the bolt to have a good contact.



Notice the gap^^^^^. This is the POSITIVE post.

A scrap piece of wood with eye bolt to suspend the object on and to make a NEGATIVE post.

I use thin metal wire to the object to the eye bolt, as I read that copper can dissolve. It is important to have good contact between the object and wire. You may need to use a wire brush to improve conductivity.



I drilled a small hole about an inch from the eye bolt and pass the wire thru it, then wrap the wire a couple times around the bolt. This hole helps keep the wood from wanting to rotateas the weight is centered.

Next, add water and arm & hammer WASHING soda, not baking soda! This has do with chemistry- blah blah blah.



I put in ~ 4 gallons of water a table spoon of washing soda/gallon.

This is what it looks like running:



Remember the POSITIVE goes to rebar and NEGATIVE to the object!

Not all battery chargers work the same. I was in Lowe's and saw the cheapest one they had for $20 and it believe it work fine. If the charger use works and everything is connected with good conduct, you should know it is working fine in <60 seconds. You will see bubbling, like if you had a glass of sprite.



The rebar acts like a magnet to rust, but pulls in a "straight" line, this is why multiple rebar helps. I rotate the object a bit because my rebar are not equidistant. This process may take several days. Twice a day, I pull the item and it wipe down and put it back in. I put in a vise and it removed the old paint as well. The original paint came off easily with a wire wheel.

When emptying the water, it will be full of rust, etc. The rebar will need a quick wire brushing because rust is attracted to it.

Disclaimer: water and electricity. Make good choices and not hurt yourself or someone else.

Here is the chopper finished

Needed one of those gizmos hooked up to my truck about ten years ago.

Oneoldboot I am impressed on how well that turned out. I think I am going to give that a try.

Thanks for sharing your process

Thanks!

One consideration when buying a trapline axe is the abuse it may take. I discovered that I needed a tool that I wouldn't have to worry if I knicked the blade cutting too close to the ground or driving an occasional stake when I forgot my hammer. I know some of the axe purists are about ready to vomit hearing an axe poll striking a metal stake, but it is a rare reality. At the end of the day, an axe is a tool.

Many good USA made axes and hatchets can be found at flea markets and auctions for under $10. It hurts less when touching a rock at this price point than a $60 or $150 one. Another advantage is you can learn how to sharpen and rehandle on the yard sale axe. Generally, I only buy USA made axes that are stamped with the maker on it. I don't buy any from china, india, Mexico or have "warning labels" on them.

I carried a "3/4" (or boys) axe with a 2.5 lb head the first couple seasons, but then switched to a hatchet and it has worked well for me. I think the boys axe, which is ~28" is under appreciated.

I go to a lot of antique shops and I will start giving axes more attention as this thread has sparked my interest.

I want a new tdapline axe but I would also want some for collection purposes.

Thanks again for sharing

Small work bench. I made this "vise" to sharpen axes. It works well.

going through the stuff accumilated on the farm since the 1880's and have found bunches.will get a pic in a day or 2 up after i look at names.

Call me a purist but I cringe at the thought of an axe poll striking anything harder than a wood or plastic glut.

Here's one designed to hammer with that could find a place in my trapping kit.



https://www.hardcorehammers.com/product/super-naturalist/

That's a good one warrior...usually those rig axes aren't heavy enough to drive stakes through my soil, and I use a small single bit cruiser "boys ax" for beaver trapping.

Carpenter axes with that straight edge aren't really suited for chopping green standing wood. Better for shaping dry wood.

Here is a partially complete restore. I just need to replace the handle. I tried it out prior to disassembly and it split well.

The exciting find:



After a couple days in the electrolysis bath:



I thought it would look sharp painted, so I went for it. I used a file to reshape/sharpen and it easily to an edge. One of the easiest axes I have ever sharpened:






I'll post a completed pic once I handle it.

Nice find and it looks good painted.

I was asked today how many axes does a person need? Lol

I don't have that many. Yet.