How should I set body grip triggers?

I've had my body grip triggers formed into a "T" for a long time. I have noticed some critters get into the trap too far. I am going to try some my 160'ss & 220's with them in "V" and set on the bottom with the V opened up enough to allow critters to not hit the wire with their face, What works for you

Depends on what I'm after, but I use trigger wires shaped like ( ) on my 160s more than anything else. My primary use for 160s is for mink, and I only use ( ) for that. If I've run out of 220s and having to use 160s on a coon trail, I'll put one straight down and the other at a 45 degree angle like I \ or I'll keep the ( )


The only time I really use twisted T on bottom is whenever I'm setting 280s or 330s for beaver.

Good stuff, thank you.

That sounds like a good plan, Sr.

IMO body grip trap triggers should almost always be on the bottom in any blind trail, ground cubby or box set, with the general exception being diving water sets. I don't think animals like ducking under something any more than I do, but will push through small twigs or grass. Also:

1.When the trigger is placed on the upper jaw hanging down, as shown in many manuals and pictures, the dog and trigger wires end up on the back of the animal where the best fur is and can possibly cause serious fur damage.

2.Also with the wires hanging down in an inverted V form the animal can often IMO slip under the wires and get to far into the trap resulting in a bad strike.


With regards to box sets I also like my trap positioned close to the end of the spring slots, but not against them. With the trap springs against the slot ends when fired it will jump out over the animal and not always get the best humane catch. The solution is to set your trap spring an inch to 1 1/2 inch before the end of the slot, which greatly reduces the propelling of the trap by the spring. Yet, when the trap is fired the springs will still hit the end of the slots without losing significant striking power or jumping over the animal, yet with enough force to help propel the trap and animal out of the box especially with an inclined b

I think it can depend a lot on what you're trapping. For example, if you're trying to avoid an otter, some set their 330 triggers different than if they have an otter tag.

Some great info here so far. Anyone else what to join in on this?

Not really,after trying all concoctions,I now just move them where ever I want.Right,left,middle.

It's not just your trigger arrangement that's allowing the critter to get to far Into the trap. It's because your trap Isn't tuned.
Your getting way to much trigger travel before the trap fires and that's your main problem. Some where on here there Is a diagram showing how to tune a BG.

[quote=Rat Trapper Sr.]I've had my body grip triggers formed into a "T" for a long time. I have noticed some critters get into the trap too far. I am going to try some my 160'ss & 220's with them in "V" and set on the bottom with the V opened up enough to allow critters to not hit the wire with their face, What works for you

What are you targeting?

If anyone can find that diagram, please post it here.

Here you go: http://www.trapperman.com/trapperman/Basic_Sets_Bodygrip_Adj.html

Beav, you are right my traps are not tuned. hat will get fixed this winter. Target critters are a mixed bag of coon, fisher, possum & skunks. Coon are caught well, but this year I had a fisher get hip caught again like last year. I don't like finding a live skunk in a trap. Last year I found a live skunk in a 160 and didn't have my pistol with me. So I had to use my coon smacker.

Thanks bctomcat.

Everyone spends all kinds of time tuning their foot holds but I bet 90% of trappers never even think about tuning their BGs.
If you want good clean kills It's very important.

Anyone else have any other ideas on how the triggers should be set?

What no one has any other ideas!

For beaver you want the triggers togather all the way over on one side of the conibear

*

My beaver trigger set up

This set up is for Beaver with otter avoidance.....the otters can make it through

And triggah is always on the bottom

I had some Belisles that were catching otter by the hip. I put a 330 on my bench set and attached a safety setter on it. With a wooden dowel I pushed on the trigger wires until the trap fired. Of course, it only fired as far as the safety setter would let it. I saw that the trigger wires had to be almost horizontal until the trap fired. I remedied that by filing the dog and testing each trap until they fired sooner.

Why? This gives you very poor catches on smaller beaver. I just center it on the bottom in a V. The only time I move it to the side is with baited conis, where they are grabbing the bait, much different situation then a beaver speeding down a channel. For rats, still in a V, but trigger to the side. For mink out of the water, I'm still not sure which is best, but usually put them hanging down in a V- a trip wire helps.

Because you will not get good catches on the big beaver.You will get some refusals and snapped traps by the big beaver not getting far enough into the conibear or turning at the last second.The smaller beaver will be suit cased.

I don't trap for beaver, but here in NY southern zone, due to otters we have to have them to the side. Have trigger regs.....no 4 ways either.

When I tried it, I had hip caught smaller ones. Once I moved the triggers to the bottom, the sprung traps pretty much stopped.

That's better after all these years am still trying to learn.

That describes me.I've been guilty of that and don't use them in big numbers but I'm tuning them now.It is at least as important as on foot traps.

Good point something to work on this winter.

I'm now thinking that my 160's might be better set up when in a "L" and on the bottom. Would like to hear from those of you who have tried it.

Doesn't anyone have any thing to share/

Waxing your traps is the key to having them fire properly for good catches.
Trigger configurations are different for different applications and or set types.

In my younger days I waxed some 110's and had a hard time keeping them set. Caught my fingers too many times and never wax a coni again.

Yup...Nevah wax a coni...but when I do....I just dip the ends,where the spring slides....Nevah on the dog or the bar ,where the dog sets.

I spray paint my dry land traps, do it for few years in row and you don't have to treat them every year. Triggers centered on all traps except 330s at castor sets, set those upside down with triggers in a T.

Adjust your conis first then wax. When ready to use rub the dog against the jaw in the location of your choice then set them. For mink you need a light trigger. WAX them......jk

Good idea and I will try it. HOpe I don't catch my fingers like I did the last time I tried it.

I’ve never beaver trapped before but I got some coni’s now. One new and a few used to try and help a buddy with a beaver problem on his farm. I am going to tune like suggested here. This spray paint post has me thinking...this maybe a stupid question, I know. Can you spray paint a coni that is going in water? Not trying to hijack but I noticed that in this thread and didnt think I should start new for that. Thanks a lot!

Edit: okay I was trying to ask that to Rat Masterson but I dont know how to show his post + mine. Sorry.

.

I just took some new 330's out of the box and into the water....you could see the oil floating in the water.....and still caught Beaver. Answer to your question...let the paint dry for an hour....then set them

Lots of good info posted so far. Do you have an opinion?

I took Nessmuck's advice on how to set my beaver traps up, I necked a beaver yesterday right behind the ears, I'm assuming that's a fatal catch right?

The picture is only half there. Can't see how you did the triggers.

Ttt