Supporting 280 and 330 with frozen ground..

I read about people useing sticks or supports, I picked up two different kinds, so far I've managed to brake every stick I try and bend the store bought support, I've tried rebar also, In North Dakota it's almost like, Alaska and I don't bed traps in the ground but in the snow in the winter, so I turn to the knowledge of many how do you support your large body traps with frozen solid ground...

I have never tried it with large body grippers but smaller ones I have. I use MB coni-brackets bolt to flat sheet metal that is just big enough and heavy enough to hold up the conibear. These are good up to the size 220 though. The Barkers body grip mount comes in sizes up to 330 size which I would think would work in the same manner.

In ND you can not use a body grip that large on dry land. If set under water like it has to be to be legal and to keep from freezing in the bottom will not be froze.

Yeah I'm trapping beaver now, in water, and you can use them on land with a limited opening then support is simple... The creek bed is frozen solid I break a few inches of ice every morning I'm placing logs on the springs to hold them but when sheets of ice move so do my traps

rebar and hags brackets, maybe a stakealizer.

What type of sets are you trying to make?Channel sets can be made with the two springs cranked up and a pole thru the spring eyes.
If you are making castor sets\shore sets,use two good size dry poles cut on site about 4 feet long in a v shape with the v up on land.Set the bodygrip at the open end half in the water,and stabilize with a few nails. Place lure\bait at the back of the v on shore.This set will keep your trap operating in fluctuating water levels as the poles will rise and fall with the water.
Make sure to wire off trap and float poles in case the water rises high.

KB stabilizers in my book, should have spent the money and bought one for each 330 the first time i saw them! Happy trapping! ScottW

I see the brick method for smaller traps is there a bracket similar for the bigger traps that I could mount to a flat sheet of metal, last night I welded up a few 4" by 11" flat steal with four short pieces of rebar welded at an angle, I'm afraid of some further damage with this design, I have a good idea for single spring traps useing a mounted stud in place of the rivet or factory bolt to hold the trap side ways this don't work for the larger two spring traps...

[quote=ScottW]KB stabilizers in my book

X2

Set in deeper water you won't have the froze bottom or the ice moving. The beaver are coming out of deeper water. I am guessing you are trying to set where they are coming out of the water. Set between the house/bank hole and the crawl out. From what you posted if the trap doesn't move it will be froze in.

The KB stabilizers work OK but I tossed all mine-always a big tangled mess with those things.

I'm setting runs out of bank dens, there deep some over my waders this creek is very small and lots of dams and bank dens, the ground shows at least 6 different stick piles over the dens most of the creek is very shallow couple incs of water but watch your step cuz the runs are deep, I have to set submerged do to floating ice and refreezing nightly...

Set the trap at the bottom of the deep runs. If it is over your waders the bottom should not be froze, unless there was no water there all winter.

Flat steel, tie plates or brake rotors with a stabilizer welded on it will work. Just need a bit of weight on the springs to keep it from wobbling too much.

I have no problem with store bought support in swamps, the bottom of the creek feels like concrete probably ice, I've tried rebar stakes looking the part I've tried that all winter, on dry ground, it don't work they bend, I live 7 Miles from the Canadain border it's still winter...

12 degrees here this morning still winter here too.

Sounds like a hard bottom stream, can't be froze if that deep. Could you use two long dead poles through the springs an inch past the bottom jaws, then stretch a wire tight below the jaws, keeping the poles parallel, then bend them together and wire them to keep the trap tight. Then if you could get a long rebar stake in beside the wood you could wire to them, if not lay a heavy pole in the fork of the poles and wire to them and the shore line. I have used the long poles under ice when it's too deep for a stabilizer, but have always been able to push them in the bottom enough and let the top freeze in.

I take it the runs are narrow. Suspend the trap 1" off the bottom with wire that is hooked to a chunk of rebar or t post that is across the run. The trap will just hang in the run.

Bigger problem today brought my 330s out here to try and the springs are slipping over the corner of the trap anyone have this issue I can't load a pic out here, unfolding them it snapped over the side of the trap... WHY ... can someone please share a link of how to fix this issue brand new traps..,

You Need some Belisle 330's the spring loops Cannot go over the corners and sow you down. They cost some, but are Worth the extra.

Turn the spring so the V is pointed to the other side of the trap and push the eye back around the corner. It is not unusual for that to happen, depending on the brand of trap. Say "Dukes" as an example.

I make all of my supports with 3/8 rod. My stakes are 3/8" and 1/2". I can easily support a 330 with two 1/2" stakes when the bottom is frozen, I just swing harder. Lol.

I guess I misunderstood, I thought you had deep bank den entrances and needed to get a trap in front of them.

Rookie thing no issue traps set tomorrow will tell

Coni plates....same as used in culverts......easy peasy......

except the one shown is for rocky stream...I weld the bracket the other way for culverts...and use heavier plate,,3/8", if strong current.