Tile set up for mink?

How many of you folks have much success using sections of tile, guarded with 110's for mink? I plan on using them near the bank but in water and under the water in pools. I recently found one small pice of 8in tile then Sunday I was given an 8ft piece of 8in tile. So I made 4 2ft sections out of the 8ft piece. And the other is roughly 2-2.5 long. 2 pieces I made to fit my Sleepy Creek 455's on both ends. I drilled out a hole in the middle of the pipe for a stake and plan on anchoring both traps to the stake.

Good luck.
The problem your going to have Is getting the mink to go through the body grip . Now If you cut out a section on the bottom lip of the tile so you could bed a foot hold part way In the tile you might have more success.

ditto

Beav is right. Alot more will refuse than enter. Could try blending the trap in with some grass. Another problem with black pipe is that after it snows, black attracts the suns heat and snow will melt then get into pipe and freeze your trap fast at night.

I try , no luck at all, even in foothold

Do you have any larger tile or can you snare in OH? I'd guess either or both would increase your odds. Everything here is tiled and many times the normal 4-6" field tile runs into larger tube that I'd say is probably 12-15". They seem to enter those big tiles easier. They must use on regular enough basis to know they are there as that I've seen them dig way thru snow drifts to get into them. Probably feel pretty safe in there

I set the footholds just outside of the tile, in the water. Shove a muskrat carcass up inside

I haven't tried tile yet.
I set out 5 of these on Saturday and am 3 for 5 so far. I need to set 300, lol.

They'll go through a conibear but don't care for a hard trigger right in their face.

Nice Les! I've never could get mink to push through the wires either. Pans on conis are nice. Thanks for starting this thread. I never quite understood what a tile was. Not kidding either. I use to think it was the rip/rap the water fell on, not what we call pipe over here. Man I'm not too sharp

Most of my conis have a bell trigger with mono between the wires in a loose loop, and held on with silicon tubing. I like this set up better. Both the pan trigger traps allowed for a suit case catch too far back, the mink was shoulders through the trap, but the bell trigger smoke him to the head.

There sure more than committed with the pan. We are getting hut with rain hard. My traps had 2 inches of new snow on top of them too. Maybe I will go set boxes tomorrow.

I think I have some 8 inch pipe scrap like that. I was going to save it for little concrete piers. I like hoarding stuff

trapper les,,,ive never tried a box of that design before. best I can tell from the pics, the trap goes in the back of the box, then the bait, then close the back end of the box. entry hole on the opposite end? is this correct? also, are you using a 3 1/2 inch entry hole? seems like a nice design to exclude coon. thanks!!! tim

I had dozen RBGs made to fit perfect in the 4inch tile. Never did get a mink to stick their melon in one. Had the triggers circle the edge, maybe should look at trying pans on those.

Mac

Here is a better picture. The back is screened in, and the bait (this year its venison tallow and boning scraps) and I added another spring to make them 120s.
It's a 2 3/4 inch hole at the top of a swinging door. During fisher/maten season, I leave the doors up, as those characters will somehow stick their head in the trap once in a while, and it will still catch mink.

At this point, I'd like to apologize for derailing the thread, sort of.

thanks for the pics and info les. it should exclude the coon, and im guessing most of the mink stay inside the box, and out of sight of birds. nice design. thanks!

I think you'll have more success if you scuff the last inch of your trigger wires with a file then bend them outward then run a very thin "belly" wire from one to the other by wrapping the thin wire several times around each area that you scuffed. You can even let a little "belly" in the cross wire that gives them somewhat of a hole to travel through.

I make is about a 2 1/2" round hole, and the tag ends of my mono finish the visual loop above even though they aren't attached to anything. The mink darts through the mono loop and it acts like a soft belly catch. There is no need for a "hard loop" that is detectable that they can climb around.

Les, Just took a closer look at your one pic, the one with your truck in it and saw the mono. In the reply just above you say "even though they aren't attached to anything." It appears that they are and that you're doing virtually what I said only with mono. What am I missing? I like your set-up! CT

Clay, the tag ends aren't attached at the top of the loop, they just form one inside the realm of the wires. A little circle within the wire bell, only held by the sides.

Mink do not seem to avoid 110's when used as bottom edge sets, why do you guys think they will avoid a 110 in a tile if the tile is in a pool of water or under water along a bank? I never tried this set, but I just got some tile today to give it a try. I think this set was discussed at Minktoberfest this year.

In BE sets the mink is swimming and cannot stop forward move as easily as when walking. When set along a bank partially submerged they will walking. If they are balking at the wire triggers try using pan triggers. I have had good success on rats and mink in small streams using a similar "culvert box" set in small streams. Placed in small feeder streams it will take many a

rat or mink travelling the stream as it seems they cannot pass up exploring the tunnel.

Very helpful info guys! I like the mono on the wires.