blake&lamb

Did Blake & Lamb ever produce #11's...?

i think but you got me wondering.i'll look.

I’m wandering too.

Yes, they did.

So who makes Blake and Lamb now? I’ve seen them for sale, I think it is victor. Are they not as well made now?

Yes they did. I bought a dozen back in the late 60's- very early 70's.

Yeppers they did, still have 10 or so of them.
Dennis

Thank you...i need to start looking then...like those old B/L's

Oneida Victor of Ohio is currently making traps with the name "Blake & Lamb on the pan. These are NOT like the original B&L

Original B&L have 3 distinguishing features

- a flat cross piece with a post pan. Newer B&L have a humped cross piece and clamp pan, like a Victor.
- lock link chain. Newer B&L have a twin-loop chain, like a Victor.
- more rounded spring end. Newer B&L have a more tapered spring end, like a Victor.

If you take a trap and hold it in profile view at eye level, you can see the shape of the spring end. Newer traps are V shaped. Older B&L are more U shape.

Original B&L made 4 types of # 1 long spring traps -

Single long, single jaw
Single long, double jaw
Double long, single jaw
Double long, double jaw

All of them are out there on the used market. You just have to keep looking..

The old B&L had a very good spring design, I don't know why the "Victor" people can't make the springs like the old B&L.

IDS B & L Same design as the #11 Victor Weight 9 lbs. Price $1.02 each Doz $10.25
Hawbakers 1969 -1970 Catalog

$10.25 a dozen... you can maybe get one for that price now.

Any guesses on approximate cost of old/used #11' s...?

Only the best ones ever.

The old rounded spring #1 longs that B and L made are amazing. Great Coon traps. Very strong. I have a couple dozen. I wish I had more!

Got a bunch of them,best ones ever.

In my experience selling used traps, Trappers either really like or really dislike that model of B&L single long stoploss. The folks that dislike those stoploss don't like the way the guard part is set up. Not sure why.

Because they don't use it properly.I wedge the delay bar under the little bent part of the jaws sticking out the front of the frame.This way the stop loss bar never fails to trip.

Which has probably resulted in losing muskrats or whacking their knuckles trying to set the trap. That wire bar packs a punch. LOL

I cut my delay pin short and stick it in the hole in the end of the frame post.

TMI

A lot of guys would slide the delay bar over the stoploss spring and through the little hole in the front of the frame.That would work if you only stick it through a quarter inch or so,but I saw folks putting the delay bar all the way in and that usually results in it not pulling out at all thus not releasing the stoploss bar at all.Better the way I do it.Always releases.

I remember the Victor stoploss traps in the 70s. What a complicated piece of junk. The guard pushed up on the pan, and the pan had to swing all the way up for the guard to release (what if the animals foot was blocking it?). If you did get one to work better get a blueprint drawn up.....

They had that hump in the stoploss bar that the delay pin was suoppsed to go through,,but like you said if you set them the way designed you were lucky to get the pan to go down.

I had a muskrat laying dead beside a victor sl once. I must have set it backwards (layed the stoploss over the jaws instead of under) and the stoploss went off before he had a chance to get caught.It still got him....This was way back 40 years ago when I was a newb.