Dealer Part

Have had a noise in front end of my Dodge Dakota for a while now. Crawled under it and see there was torn CV boot on driver side 4X4 shaft. I had the guy that does my tranny fluid changes replace the CV shaft on the passenger sided couple years back. Told me it was easier to just do the whole shaft vs just doing boot.. Anyway I figured long as I was going to tear into things to do like he said just replace the whole shaft instead of just the boot. Same amount of tear down so I decided to do wheel bearing too while it was apart. Not sure what was really making the noise..
So in the process of removing the bearing hub I broke two of 3 bolts holding it. Figure at the time it was probably better than fighting to get them out, and I was replacing the hub and bearing anyway..They were rusted in and putting the cheater on them they snapped. Not a big deal I thought.
Fought the whole thing better part of the day but got it all apart. Start putting things back together and of course now need two hub bolts. Off to the parts house I go, got 4 parts houses with in half mile of home. Of course they show no bolts available and said probably dealer part??? What? So off to Ace hardware I go it's block from parts house..Ace had a bolt 14mm. 10.9 course thread.. I needed 14mm 10.9 fine thread.. it almost 4:30.. in the kids truck and off to the dealer ship. Make the part counter before it closes. He gets on the computer says yet I got 1.. Well I need 2?? Says well closest one is at deal 40 miles away..
For crying out loud.. So I take the one bolt $12,00 $13,00 something with tax, and order the other dang dang bolt. Could have had the truck all back together parked in my drive. For now it's on jack stand in kids garage. Dealer say bolt might be here today? for sure Thursday..
Can't believe \i got that stalled out by one frickin bolt..that the dealer would have only one in stock..
Knowing that I'll be little more careful before I stick the cheater on things.
Worse part is I'm not sure now the noise isn't the other side. I had to do driver side just to get the boot so it's done either way..I know now how to get the passage side apart if need to so shouldn't take as long?? maybe?

Mac

Think i would have bought 3 bolts at the hardware store for less than the cost of one at the dealers and retapped the holes to course thread.

Will have a hard time convincing me that is not deliberate that vehicles get harder to repair with common tools and parts

Go to local tractor dealer and see if they carry "Fluid Film", it's in a grey can with a red top. You may also find it in some auto parts stores like O'reilly's. spray the bolts/nuts the evening before you plan on tearing it down to replace the other side. This stuff is amazing at loosening rusted fasteners.

My nephew is a diesel mechanic at a large truck dealership and he turned me on to using it. They use it on exhaust manifold bolts and other rusted fasteners.

My son has a buddy rents a room from him that works for Ferrel. He actually got me a can of Fluid Film last fall and yes it good stuff. I should have sprayed all that stuff the day before but only did it right at the start. So those 3 bolt where i broke the to only soaked maybe hour or so.. I would have put some heat on them had I known they were a rare deal. As it was I actually thought it was great they broke so didn't have to fight them. Guess I was wrong on that battle front.
I also picked up a can of SeaFoams version of penetrating oil. Everyone on has their favorite now days, was using BP blaster before the Fluid Film.. grew up with everything getting Liquid Wrench.. Also been told Kriol is the greatest??


Mac

Well lucky me , dealer just call bolts here already this morning.. So off I go scrap my knuckles put things back together. Carefully of course..

Mac

I am always amazed at the price of some of the factory fasteners. That $13 part probably cost them less than $1 from their supplier. I am not a mechanic but I do work on a lot of vehicles. My torch is my best friend when the going gets tough.

Mac, does your truck have the 2 piece axles with the stub shaft sticking out of the differential? It seems the splines wear out on both the outer shaft and the inner shaft which necessitates replacing both at the same time. I have had some not-so-good experience with those. I have a method that makes the job easier than having to remove the differential cover to release the stub shaft.

Sorry for your loss MAC LOL!! Not laughing at you but with you! Sounds like some of the adventures I have.
Never did say what the noise sounded like? My Dakota was making a clicking on left side in 4wd now has both shafts and front drive shaft and left brake rotor. And yes Cano Kroil is amazing stuff. 50/50 with Hoppes #9 makes a good rifle bbl cleaner.