Converting No 1 LS to No 11 DLS?

I have never been much into modifying traps just simple adjustments and repairs when necessary. I was talking to a fella at work who wanted to buy a few traps off me because he knew I have way more than I ever use. In that conversation it hit me like a brick wall.....I must have 5-6 dozen old No 1 LS. Now given we don't hat rats in numbers like we used to they have not seen the water in 10-20 years. On the other hand No. 11 DLS are my all time favorite water trap. Very easy to stabilize and great holding power for coon, quick for mink, etc. I would assume its possible to convert the No. 1 to No 11? Am I missing something? I have not yet looked closely at the jaw/spring configuration to see if this would work. I would assume there are others who have done this before. How difficult is it? Thanks in advance for any feedback!

my opinion only--sell the 1's and buy 11's with it.

love the number 11's but have never handled a converted number 1 that sat quite right.

maybe someone will chime in thats done it and felt it was equal to a factory 11

Really need to be the #1s with the square jaws. If it's the D shaped jaws it doesn't work well. Even the square jaw converaions will still blow up on you.

SnipperBBB is right, if the jaws are the same on both ends it is a snap but if not then it simply wont work.

If the jaws are symmetrical, you can do it, a lot are not. Compress the spring on the trap with the right size vise grips or clamp, do the same to the new spring your going to add. Pop out the jaws from the frame with welders vise grips or big pair of channelocks being careful not to bend the jaws. Install new spring ( the right one, with the proper hole sizes) then put back together.

I have added another spring to a couple #1. I believe it was a b&l and Victor. The jaws were ground for a spring on both and only required the extra spring. If the jaws are not ground where the spring would sit it would probably be more trouble than it's worth imo.


I must type slow. 3 people replied before I finished.

330 setters work too.

I have tried it with both the symmetrical jaws and the non symmetrical. Non symmetrical jawed double spring traps are all cockeyed when not set but when set the springs laid equally and i was able to use them fine. I did have the file the outside of the jaw a bit for the springs to hit equally left to right side. Not pretty but they worked fine. I used them for two years no issues. I also had 1.5 singles i converted to #2 longs the same way. again not pretty but worked.

Listen to PCR.
I agree

Best advice right there.

However if you ever do use a vise or welding clamps to replace jaws on any size trap, wear goggles or full face mask, I've had them jaws fly out and it hurts, so if you get hit you might get over it, just don't get it in an eye.

Even factory double springs can explode, has a few SC #3 blow up.

don't get me goin on the duke 11's-and i'm not a duke basher either.

Y'all ain't doing something right if you can't get them to set proper. Give it a go OP.

one in every crowd.

Lol. Lets think about this a minute. If the jaws are symmetrical from the factory on a #1ls it is the exact same trap as a #11, less one spring. All your doing is adding a spring, just like turning a 110 into a 120. If you bend the frame, or the jaws when your adding the spring, then tune it and then go set it.

you know i'm lazy.

I did mine before the memo came out that it wouldn't work. They work fine.
I also put a link or two of tire chain around the frame, centering chain hook up.
Coon don't get out.

Wouldn't buy 1s just to do this, these were hanging around doing nothing.

Lol i never got the memo either. I got a bunch of traps years ago and there were pieces and parts of a bunch of longsprings and the traps that were there were in disrepair. I paid next to nothing for them. after a little work 2.5 dozen junk non working traps turned into a dozen #11 that hooked up perfect for me. some straight jawed and some D shaped.

Victor made two types of #1 longsprings. The ones made in the U.S. are the ones with the rounded jaws on the non-spring end. The ones made in Canada were #11 traps with only 1 spring installed. Very simple to pop out the jaws and install a second spring on the Canadian type traps. Since you already have the #1s (assuming they are the Canadian type) it would be much more economical to just add the extra spring than to go out and buy #11s. I did this about 25-30 years ago to 4 dozen traps and these traps still catch and hold any coon that they get ahold of.

Thanks everyone for the insight. I know many are victors and some old B&L. Sounds like a good summer to Robert to dig them out and see if I can make them into something more useful.

Best mod is to take the chain off the spring. Move it to the other end of the frame where there is no spring. Bigger traps you can drill a hole under the jaw ends in the frame. Put a rivet through it. Those #1's you use the bender B2b sells to make #9 wire into a "U" shape about an inch and a quarter long. weld it on the bottom of the frame so about half extends out past the end with no spring. Attach a swivel and your chain to it. The animal will be pulling its foot into the spring instead of away from it.

I even did the conversion to a zero long spring, it did not hold an otter but otherwise I have no problem using it for a deep water muskrat set, added a little more weight with an extra spring.

My take... the only #1 trap that could be "easily" modified into a #11 was the #1 Northwoods trap. That #11 Northwoods (and #2 and #3 dbls) were great for positioning the springs any way you wanted them. Decent jaws(wish the jaw tips were a bit longer), good base and the springs were stout...if you have a chance to get your hands on some... check them out.