Question about traps.

I'm new at all this stuff. I'm looking to learn a bit about trapping like Dave Canterbury. I was watching a video of his saying for sustain survivability the best trap was three 110's canibears. I'm sure he was going base on weight and less mass to carry when it packs. But my question is if all - was to break out. what would trappers here would carry if their holding about 25lbs currently with the water weight was 8lbs? Would it still be the 110's? Because I notice that their is only one spring which does lower the weight than the dual springs.

I also saw a new trap that came out that was made by wcs. It was a 5x7 conibear that had one spring. I'm not sure anything about them because I tried to research about this trap and no one has done any reviews or reviews on forums. I've seen a 160 conibear that was a 5x5 with one spring to possibly broaden a bigger meal want what you would normally catch with 110's.

So I'm new and I was hoping someone can help me by answering anything about this topic. Thanks

no matter what you do it will be your turn to die when its your turn

i just looked that guy up. 598000 subscribers, looks like he is making a pretty good living with those video's

Yeah he was on TV I hear. But he does have a way to bring out a good knife like the mora garberg. Anyways what's your take would you pack anything bigger than 3 110 canibear traps?

This is one to watch...

I am guessing this is a prepper asking so to answer I would want to know where you will end up. A couple of 110 killer traps sounds good till they are empty every day, and they can be. I think some good size snares with a roll of picture hanging wire to make small game snares from might be more useful in a months long time frame.

I understand that. But I sense times is about to get tough. Especially when your a millennial like me by being bombarded by the common core system and had to relearn everything you know from the pass 12 years. So I'm 34 and have a few years till I die. Unless something happens sooner that I don't have any control over. But I got to keep living.

Waxed strike anywhere matches
220 Belisle
Small skinning knife

But it just seems that the conibears 110 are too small for what they get. I was thinking about the time and the protein and the amount you get from a 150 wasn't worth it compared a bigger trap that can get you something bigger. Would two 160 conibears be better for more abundance of meat? Than 3 110 conibears?

I just accidentally picked up a 280 rule conibear from Amazon and since I know that their are better companies for traps I'm thinking about sending them back. But I heard that the 280 was a good so around trap for any big out bag aswell.

I think its silly not to prepare for an earthquake, tornado, power failure or whatever. If you have to flee and try to live by catching pack rats and eating dandelions you are in for some misery and a slow death. I went on a 3 day survival hike when i was a boy scout in the 60's. it was summer and we had a lot of fun. It got me started trapping. We learned to snare rabbits and I thought it was pretty cool. If 170,000 people are within 20 miles of you because they all fled too, how many rabbits or pack rats or whatever do you think there will be after a month? Move someplace agricultural. Where there are people with cattle, hogs and chickens. Places to raise gardens. A mixed topography so there is plenty of firewood. A low per square mile of human population. Those people will have a chance if there is some kind of catastrophe. A plan to live under a poncho, hiding out in the mountains with horrible winter weather and 17 million other desperate people,is not a plan.

Anyway Merry Christmas. Grandkids are stirring I have to go. I am a fur trapper not a survival guru masking a living telling people how to survive an emp on youtube. I'll quit responding.

Canterbury is a world renowned survivalist, BUT recently joined a FB group I'm in to LEARN to trap.

A 110 is good for small game like squirrels, muskrats, mink, etc.

SNARES can be made for ANY critter, are light and cheap.

If you want to learn to trap in a short time...……Here’s what helped me shorten my learning curve by decades. Join your state trapping assn, Google it. Then contact officers off their site and ask for a mentor to ride along with. Learn the laws in YOUR state regarding jaw spreads, shock springs, etc, etc. This gets you in the info loop of FREE trappers ed classes and meets and fur sales/pick ups, and conventions. Then attend ALL YOU CAN, this shows folks you are serious and will be a good student. It sure helped open many doors for me and it could for you as well. ALSO, get several different trapping supply catalogs, like MTP, Sterling Fur, FandT, PCS, Schmitt enterprises, Southeastern outdoor supplies, rpoutdoors, etc etc, THEN circle gear you need, and give the catalogs to loved ones to buy your Birthday and Christmas and July 4 and Anniversary gifts. Explain to them, you want their money to go towards what you will use and need, as opposed to another sweater hanging in your closet. WORKS GREAT in our family.

I live in the country with only 2k people for population.

Remember one thing , snares may be lite and cheap but they don't last very long . They get kinked , chewed , twisted and broken pretty quick . Body grip traps last forever with minimal care .

5x7s are THE Ohio thing, started by fellow tman member Ack. The single spring is more for mink. The double springed versions are for coon. I haven't seen the WCS version in person to compare it with Ack's version.

Whatever trap your the most proficient with
For me it would be snares and a few leg holds

Like said snares will take anything with a 110 you eat for a day with a snare you eat for a week. Every garage door has cable so it’s out there learn how to make swivels and locks.

me too, but I contacted officers of my state assn asking for a mentor, as I advised you, and found 1 in the county North of me and another in the adjoining county just South of me.
One of them even came to pick me up on his run!

indeed, so a 1000' ft spool of 1/16" and another in 3/32" are on hand...and some locks and ferrules too.

I agree bout body grips FOREVER and would probably opt for a 280 and a 220 since they can be adapter with pans if need be for non-typical targets.

Can a body trap be used as a leg hold? Especially if you got the magnum traps 110?

It happens occasionally but they are not designed for that so any sets trying for that type of catch are non productive,and if they do connect often the animal will escape because the design of the trap is non conducive to proper swivelling.