Laminating bridger off set dogless #2?

I have not been happy with the condition of the feet on my fox and coyote catches. I plan on installing t bar spring and thought laminated them would help. What would you use to laminat them and why. 9 wire for ease or flat plate/bar stock how thick?
Do you think this will solve the problem. Should I sell them and buy mb 550s or all ready fully modified bridgers?

I'm planning on picking up a dozen or two mb 550s to try regardless but I'm not sure if its wort spending time on the bridges I all ready have or dump them for convenience I only have 15. They hold well except I had a coon pull out leaving a few hairs on the jaws but attribute that to a tapered paw and off set jaws. I had a coyote leave 2 pads and nails in in one and it held. I have also been impressed with my mb 750s so assume i would be with the 550s as well.

I have both 550s and bridger 2 dogless and love them both. Laminating should take care of your issue I think. Are they 4 coiled? I'm sure some would argue me all day, but I don't feel like 4 coils are necessary and that extra pressure from the helper coils could be causing a little damage. I have some 4 coiled bridgers, as well as 2 coiled bridgers and 2 coiled 550s. I have yet to have a coyote pull out of a 2 coiled trap, so long as the springs are good strong springs. Also, I have laminations from square stock and round stock and I prefer round. If anything, they just look and feel cleaner without possibility of sharp edges, etc.

I've caught critters in #2 Bridgers with no damage, why do you think it's a problem?

For fox country I love the Sleepy Creek 2 stage springs but to answer your question yes. I can release almost anything but a coon from offset laminated jaws and they are fine.

They are 2 coil sorry I should have included that. They are newly purchased this year since I couldn't find many of my old ones. I had not trapped in 15 years. My boys showed intrest in the middle of January so that got me back into it. I have really enjoyed it and cant believe I ever quit.

Forget the #9 wire.Use 3/16 or 1/4 round rod.I like the 1/4 inch round rod.Once you laminate them replace the springs with music wire springs if the springs are weak.

So to answer my question, being your an albeit trapper on sabbatical, why do you think the stock #2 Bridgers are causing damage as I'm curious? Mine never have.

Well not wanting to post things that could be negative or used as negative about traping on an open fourm I will leave it at I'm not happy with the results I have had. It's not something I "think " I will have an issue with Hence the question on laminating. Not every catch has had issues but I had a few I could have had better results with.

Nuff said for me any how.....

I just laminated a few new Bridgers this afternoon. I've been using 2 coiled OS MB550's and OS MB650's and am very happy with my but wanted to try some dogless Bridgers. I laminated them just because they are new and easier to weld to clean metal. I used 1/4" SS as that is what I had and it seems to be work fine. A bit more pre work with Bridgers than the MB's but then I don't mind tinkering.

I have also had the same problem with Duke #2 sq jaw. Most of them are just what you want. But there have been a few with some damage.

Yep.

Laminating should take care of any issues, but if youd rather just sell them than modify them, PM me. May be interested in buying them from you.

For what it’s worth, I run MB 550’s and Bridger Dogless #2’s, both offset with 2 springs. What I believe is that the Bridges are a bit more sensitive than the MB’s. I have no complaints on either one. I guess what I’m saying is “Is it possible that if the Bridgers are more sensitive, could that be causing your problem?”

More sensitive to what?

More sensitive meaning less pan pressure required to trip. . At least out of the box.

Just got to ask since I didn’t see any other post that did, did you smooth up the inside of the jaws with a file and sand paper? I think laminated helps. If you want really nice preformed flat lams J.C.Conner has them for not a bad price compared to cold roll at the hardware store plus measure cut and fit. I run threes and 650s all are offset and OL so can’t speek to the #2s good luck. Never heard a bad word about the 550s either.

That won't have anything to do with foot damage.

No it was the 2nd week of Jan when the boys and I got started. All I did was de grease them and attach cable ground anchors and adjusted pan tension to around 3lb.

I think that will be a good idea along with laminating, adding springs, and swapping out the cable anchors for chains and welded s hooks. Maybe filing the pan a bit shorter so it fires without having to move as far. They are fine traps I was just not prepared ahead of time. I'm trying to get prepared for next year now before the farm, work and kids eat up all the trapping prep time. Need to secure permission for more locations also. That's part of the off set laminated jaws, and springs. I want to have them to show land owners that think trapping is cruel that that's a common misconception. Being able to point out these advancements vs spiked jaws ect. Also pointing out tha no traps don't break their legs and I get snapped in my traps from time to time and I wouldn't use something that would break my fingers.

1/8-3/16th is all you need for the jaws. You could go quarter inch but its a bit much . 9 gauge wire is too soft and you have to get the wire straightened before you can use it or things get goofy.

What is your swivel setup?

Basic one at the trap one at the stake. I plan on adding another in the center.

You will be amazed at the difference adding another swivel will make in foot damage. The swivels that come factory on them will work but aren't great. When the j-hook is closed it doesn't leave much shaft exposed. You can take vise grips and get them closed up a bit more to help from binding as fast.

Might want to be careful filing the inside of the jaws on Bridger dogless traps. That's where your pan latches onto the jaw to hold the trap open.

^^^ yes you would definitely want to leave that area alone.

I run inside and out 3/16X1/4 from J C Conner on all my #2 Bridger and duke as well as shock springs from him and his nail swivels. Sanded edges with a small belt sander. Where you catch a coyote as well as all are individuals just like people. Some will fight harder then others. Catch one and hold him during a storm can make them fight harder as well. I don't run any 4 coiled even with the laminations.

You probably can't laminate inside with a dogless trap.

I laminated all my # 2 Bridger offsets last year, used 3/16 round stock. They are the old style with dogs. They will all be getting new springs this year. I used a few on my fox line this last season when I ran out of my regular Northwoods 1.75's. I'm pleased with those limited results. I didn't head north to run a coyote line this last season, that would be a better test.

Agree. I have three swivels on all my footholds. On the few occasions they get bound up with grasses the difference is noticeable.

I am not familiar with the Bridger dogless. Can they be night-latched? I'm a big fan of night-latching.

They come factory night latched

Catch 22,
I have used the #2 and # 3 Bridger traps for quite a while. Occasionally, not always, but occasionally I have had issues with them. They are not laminated but will be.
I finally, being slow, dumb and cheap, realized to avoid having feet like the old #2 Victor coils produced at times, I need to laminate.
I think issues show up and are dependent on individual animals reactions.

Mac

I found a long time ago factory offsets are a joke when it comes to foot damage.I have no experience with this,but I've been told "canadian mods",that is,laminating the bottom of the jaw as well as the top make a big difference.That would be an extremely wide jaw face.Maybe do some up this way and use next season and see what you think.Also,their are some members here,seems more so in the south,that use soft catch or MB550 rubber jaw with great results.I've thought about giving them a try myself.

Why do you say factory offsets are a joke? Just curious on your thoughts, always willing to learn something new or see a new perspective. Personally I think, like stated already, there is or should be a lot more that goes in to it. Any stock trap has room for improvements or mods to fit your needs or each different species you're trapping. Stock offsets, with no laminations/extra swivels may cause damage. Length of your chain may make a difference. Entanglement makes a difference. Hours between checks can make a difference. Size and demeanor of the individual animal makes a difference. 2 coil/4coil makes a difference. It's not just cut and dry...its up to us to figure out what works best for our situation and where we trap. But, it is awesome to have experienced guys that will take the time to maybe speed up the learning curve a bit and help us along the way!

A factory offset is sheared into the jaws,leaving sharp edges that are still coming into contact with the foot and there's no wiggle room here,it will and does cause foot damage.I will give you this,if you come up on your set right after a catch has been made that hold might look impressive.But thats more than the exception rather than the rule in my eyes.Yes,there are other variables that can come into play,but I would consider those variables exceptions too.Back in the late '70's early '80's the big fad was small traps for large predators,and 1.75 victor was born,it supposedly was the trap to bridge the gap between fox and coyote traps.Good concept,it would have worked better if Victor used better metal in their construction and thicker jaws.Then they sheared a 1/4"gap into those thin jaws for a offset.At the time the offset was being promoted as a animal comfort feature,which it hardly was with thin jaws that at the very least needed filing down on the sharp edges.Then Northwoods came out with their version,and they pushed on the fact they used thick jaws in their models.Again,while their thick jaws had good rounded edges in their regular models,the offsets were nothing more than a 1/4"cut made into the jaw,that large rounding effect was lost.I got in to both models big time when they came out,and at that time we had a large red fox population.The Northwoods came with machine chaln centered on the frame and then a box swivel,the Victor was at the typical frame end with their typical dog chain.I used these traps staked with short chain and swivel,and with 6"of chain on a drag.And the foot cutting I got was ridiculous.I did much better using No.3 Montgomery's with regular jaws on fox.To cut this story short,a factory off set doesn't do any good if its not done right,I don't care what the conditions are.I'd go with large rounded jaws anyday over a factory offset which is just sheared in to the jaws.

Buck you forgot the offsets made WITHOUT cutting. They just add a bump to hold the jaws open. They serve no purpose other then to skirt some state laws IMO.

I have used 4-coiled, offset, outside lams #3 Bridgers for 5 years with virtually no damage. We do have 24hr checks and I added a third crunch proof swivel. Have caught and held skunks, coons and grinners along with the target coyotes. I have a lot of confidence in these traps, if its sprung there is a critter in it.

Providence farm, where at in Indiana you from?