I cut firewood crooked 🤦

I always cut firewood crooked slanting towards the right. Chainsaw teeth are equally sharp. What am I doing wrong?

Bent bar maybe?

Are the teeth the same length after sharpening? I have a few times got one side a bit longer than the other causing this problem. Bent bar would be the other option.

Chain is not equally sharp

I would bet it's in your sharpening. Angle on the top plate not the same. Depth gauges not the same to each tooth. One side filed deeper than other.

Do you flip your bar?

Bar worn out

I don't think your cutters are all sharpened the same. One side is different than the other side.

steves small engine does a good job of explaining it but yeah , worn bar typically

Could be many things, bar warn out, cutters not the same, bar is pinched... just have to look at the bar and check it out

When the chain runs on the bar, after awhile it creates a "mushroom" effect and a lip develops over the top and bottom edges where the chain runs. Take the chain off, put the bar in a vise, and file that lip off It is a factor, no doubt.
Also yes, some teeth may be sharper than others. An electric bench sharpener will cure that but I still prefer a hand file for sharpening myself.

X2^^.Important to flip the bar and file it like Gary said.If you dont file the bar it will start to chip because of the mushrooming.Flipping it makes it wear more even.

I dont worry much about it, crooked wood burns as good as straight

^^^^ X3. The burr that forms on the bottom of the bar, especially when users leverage their bucking by using the rakers, could be one culprit. As others have stated inconsistencies in cutter depth, angle of the cutter, and raker height being consistent all come into play.

I would true check the bar, sight down it to see if it’s bent. Square off any burr in both sides of the bar. And get the chain ground and raker depth set. Chain sharpening is best done with a grinder. Touching up, each thank of gas, can be done by most with a file. That only works a few times though.

Filing the burr off the edge doesn't do much good if the inside rails are worn. They can be squeezed together but I never had that help much. If you are sharpening right get a new bar. They wear out quick under constant use and that always fixed me right up.

Filing the bar keeps it from chipping.Standard mtc for a feller.

Boco, what is standard feller mtc for worn guide rail grooves?

Chain or bar, unless your my wife she can't hang a picture straight to save her life doubt firewood would be cut straight! lol

Best mtc for that is preventive mtc-keep groove clean when flipping your bar,and make sure the oiler holes are clear.Once worn out time for new bar.

Maybe one of your legs is shorter than the other try standing with one foot on a 2x4.

Try holding the top bar of your saw farther to the right, I have to hold it almost on the bend on the chain side,the saw will balance better ,your left right is adjusted with trigger hand,

Try holding the top bar of your saw farther to the right, I have to hold it almost on the bend on the chain side,the saw will balance better ,your left right is adjusted with trigger hand,

At least its not leaning left.
Try a different chain?
Bring it over I'll straighten it out.

I would try a new chain

Flip the bar

Personally, I've never experienced the bar problem. Mine gets flipped every time I take off the chain for replacement or machine sharpening. That probably translates to 2-3 flips per chain.

I have had the angled cut problem. Mostly, I sharpen by hand with a file. The process is: all the way around doing the teeth facing one direction; turn the saw around and do the teeth facing the other direction. While I try to use the same number of strokes, and the same pressure, the teeth don't always come out identical. After several sharpenings it becomes apparent that those sharpened on the side with my "strong hand" come out shorter than the other side. At the same time my cuts start to wander.

Take a hard look at your teeth and compare left hand and right hand, I'll bet you'll find your problem.

A newer bar will minimize the effect of uneven sharpening. A worn out bar will allow the uneven sharpening to maximize the tilt of the chain and cause a more crooked cut. Flipping the bar is certainly a good idea but there comes a time that it needs to be replaced. Filing or sanding the surface of the bar to remove the worn area on the contact surface may buy you some time and tend to make your cut straighter but when the groove in the bar wears, it no longer keeps the chain links parallel with the bar. Any amount of unevenness in sharpening will cause a crooked cut with a worn bar.

I have worked as a professional logger and Forester for almost 50 years, and have felled timber with a chainsaw from the Adirondacks of NY, to the Mountains of West Virginia.

Most people tend to file the chain better on one side or the other.

1st if one side of the saw chains teeth are sharper than the other, the saw will lead to the sharper side. 2nd. You may have inadvertently filed the teeth on one side down further than the other or at a different angle. Bottom line, if one side of the saw chain is sharper or the teeth are longer it cuts faster or more aggressively to that side.

I doubt it’s your bar I have cut with wore out bars and never had that problem. It is almost always the chain teeth on one side sharper, longer, or wrong angle.

The only bars I ever throw away is when the roller nose is shot.

You are all wrong.

Issue is, you are right hand dominant and pulling harder on one side than the other.

Also, try actually starting the saw.

If however you choose not to start the saw, some additional tips:

1. Use the brake to lock the chain. Aids in efficiency.
2. Turn the brake off to turn the chain to a new position if the teeth you are using get dull...
3.. If you get tired cutting on the pull stroke, flip the chain around and cut on the push stroke. Really saves the back!
4. Don't forget to rotate the chain every now and then to lubricate the teeth. Really helps with cutting the hardwoods!
5. Don't turn the chain too much though as a few rotations every hour or so is enough. Doing it too much is wasteful and you will find you are filling the bar oil once every two days as opposed to once a week as recommended.
6. As stated above, switch sides periodically. Uses different muscles, saving your energy and avoiding crooked cuts.

Hope this helps!

Ive had just the opposite effect. Having cut a tree or 2...... no chain is perfect, even machine ground. Way out of whack, yes, will cause a problem .When bucking 2-3 foot logs, they have to be perfect or darn close with 3-6" of trim. A worn out bar is just that-a worn out bar. It wouldn't be considered worn out if it is still cutting straight.

stacks better that way.

Back to work Hutchy.

My saw did that, not the same way every time tho and my bar was junk. The chain flopped side-to-side.

Squash nailed it!

I think T-Rex nailed it first.

Quarantined at the moment. So bored..

Thanks for info