pole barn radiant heat or not

Going to be building a 40x72 pole barn. The floor with be poured concrete with 2" foam board . Was thinking of adding radiant heat since it will be a workshop/storage. I will have a propane heater in a workshop area kept at about 50 degrees and fire up a woodstove to add some heat while working. Anybody wished they added radiant heat after a pour ? I have not looked into pricing but was thinking of putting in a lift and was a little worried about hitting a tubing run down the road if I did do it.

my uncle did the radiant heat it is nice , quiet , doesn't blow around dust , raise the 14 foot door pull in a truck or tractor and close the door in 5 minutes back to normal temp.

the cost to put in some tubing is minimal compared to the concrete cost

4 post lift or 2 post lift

2 post require more than just a basic concrete floor you want a 10 inch deep 4x4 foot pad for each post typically if you spec out the lift and pour the pad for the lift with no tubing for the heat in it then pour the rest of the floor around it with tubing no worries about hitting the tubing

in floor heat is nice had it in a building , do what Pete said , I would , if you have a good source wood , put a boiler in

I built a 60x 100 for my nephew's salvage yard. In floor heat throughout. It is awesome. He has 2 lifts. Just plan for them and tube around area. Make a map of tube for future reference. We put all the tube in. He has propane boiler that also runs water heater. You can buy all the tube online for cheaper than anywhere. Bring all tube ends up in pairs so whoever install boiler can put them into a manifold. I think 250 foot was recommended longest run. Even if yo don't put boiler in right away the tubes are in. We saved about $5000 by putting in out own tubes. There is a lot of information on the internet to guide you.

IMO, it's the only way to go!

Yes, take detailed pics of tube placement.

Documentation of pex tube runs is a very good practice BUT if it didn't get done or lost or in doubt the runs are clearly visible with even an economy thermal scanner while they are running heat. Space your pex closer around exterior walls as this is where your heat will be lost the fastest. Pex is being spaced as close as 6" often now. It take more and means more loops but it give quicker response time to heat floor(if that is wanted). Smaller independent space heater can do the same if you want to keep space above freezing and warm up just for projects time to time. Take advantage of any solar exposure opportunity you might have, passive or active. That thermal mass in your floor can store FREE solar heat as well as it does with the hot water you run thru it if you need it. I'm not in the best solar area but we still get better than 50% of our heat from solar thru a heating season.

I am going to look into internet pricing on the pex tubing.