Pan covers for dogless traps

Can anyone offer up some advice on how to use pan covers with dogless traps? My traps aren’t firing how I want them too while using polyfill. I can step on the set with my boot and it still won’t pop. Especially after a rain. I have my pan tension set on 2 3/4lbs. I’m using #2 bridger offsets.

Have you tried window screen?

Buy a roll of window screen cut the roll in 6 inch rolls overlap a few layers staple the edge on one side make a templet for your size trap get some good cutting shears and make a few 100 while watching TV.

Try some of the Landscape fabric that Ed Schneider recommends . I really like it !!

I had a couple of the Bridger #2 dogless that the pan set to low or may have been just a little wide which prevented them from firing consistently. The pan was hitting the levers. I messed around a little bent the pan up just a hair. The pan is still level enough and they work fine now. I probably could have filed a little off the end that sits on the jaw but thought I would try “adjusting” it first.

I was thinking about trying polyfil with no pan cover just to be doing.

Interesting

Adjust your pan.

That's why I sold the brand new dogless traps I bought, the screen pan covers suck with the big wide pan latch area, if it was narrow there like the dogless traps were 40 years ago it would be good

I used landscape fabric about 5 years ago. Worked great, but couldn't keep the packrats from digging it up. If you use it, make sure you leave outside to air off for a couple of weeks. Has a smell to it that goes away with fresh air. I have used pipe wrap insulation for 4 or 5 years under the pan with real good results, and waxed sand over the top. All I run are dogless #3 Bridger's or KO Extremes which are dogless. Can't see ever going back to a dog on trap.

wax paper is all i use.

I use poly fill and no problems your pans need adjustment or they are freezing and wont fire.

This may sound a bit off the wall but have you used a stick to set off the trap? Maybe your foot Is contacting the jaws and not putting enough pressure on the pan to set off the trap.

The dog less I tried 8 of 10 didn't go off, pan hit frame, doesn't matter what is used to set trap off

Well, when they say "window screen" , which screen do you refer to ?
For me, it's got to be 'Aluminum screen' over the fiberglass screen.
Fiberglass, smells like 'plastic' when you 'cut it', even YOU can smell it, so imagine what a canine smells.
Rodents sure can detect it and if you trap where packrats, ( or similar type rodents) live, you will surely notice how quickly they will find, dig up and even steal you pan covers, exposing the trap and at times, getting caught when they 'misfire' the trap !
Fiberglass screen sags under weight of heavy soil, especially WET, HEAVY SOIL.
Aluminum screen will serve you far better !
It is stiffer and will hold up better under those conditions, but the true VALUE to stiff wire screen is that it offers a bigger KILL AREA on a 'large jawed trap' !
Now by "large jawed trap", I am referring to a #3, #4 or larger trap. In my opinion , a quality trap to use for coyotes in 'winter conditions', north of the Mason-Dixon, starts at six inches (6").
You may feel differently, depending on your soil type, weather conditions and size / weight of your coyotes.
Here where I trap, come December, it starts raining, snowing, thawing, then repeats it's cycle over and over, until mid March or April.
Seldom do we have substantial snow fall last more than three (3) weeks, but it can, on rare occasions happen.
Wire screen , (and by that, I mean Aluminum) on a large jawed trap will allow the trap to fire when an animal steps inside the jaws, yet not squarely on the pan.
Common sense will tell you why that is NOT a good idea on a small trap, such as a #1.5 or a # 2 size trap, but on a larger trap, will net you more animals in the long run.
A deep notch or 'V' should be cut and then the screen 'formed' around the pan, which is easily shown over just being told through written text.
All the above mentioned, does work under certain soil types and weather conditions and I have used them all at one time or another.
For my money and the conditions I trap in, I much prefer 'wire screen' on the trap I use, day in and day out.

If I ever figure out how to 'post a photo' on here, there is a lot I can share with you, the reader. (Since the removal of : Photobucket, I can't figure it out. )
Black wire screen, AKA : steel screen can rust in damp weather and while it is a bit 'stiffer' than Aluminum, once it starts rusting, a coyote can detect it. Even you can smell 'red' rust.
On many traps, I have gone strictly to 'enlarged' pans, but that is another post, all in itself. . .

If you were here, or I was there...I'd teach you photos in 3 minutes
You need a photo reducer ap.

Fiberglass and aluminum I wouldn't even consider using, galvanized steel is my preference

Made 2 bundles of nylon pan covers a few weeks ago wired them with bread ties then hung them in a tree to air out in back of the house, storm coming the wife thinks I don’t want them to get wet. So she walks over and takes them down and brings them to me I asked why? LOL

She hangs them in a small tree in front of the house (unprotected) the storm comes blows the bundles down breaks the wire on one now they are popping out of the snow as it melts, thanks honey. LOL

I use Keg Creek black coated screen wire for 4 years now with Victor Montgomery #3 traps. Until I find a better combo, I am sticking with it. I don’t get worried about rust, I have caught plenty of coyotes with rusty traps towards the end of the season.

I use peat moss and no pan covers and never had a problem

I also tune all of my bridger 2's. After that out on the line all I usually haveto do is adjust pan tension every once in a while after a catch. I keep a couple 5/16 wrenches in my bag for that. Don't take but a second on a re make.after doing it long enough I get a feel for how many pounds I need. No need to check em.