My vechile has a noise in the front end...

2015 Chebby Silveraydo. I hear a very slight rumbling noise in the front end when I'm going straight. When I go into a curve to the right and the weight of the vehicle shifts to the left, the sound goes away until I come out of the curve. When I curve left, the noise stays. Any ideas? I'm guessing a bearing in the hub assembly, but of course you can't simply replace a bearing anymore. Which side is bad?

In a word, it's probably trying to tell you: Toyota.

I grew up in Flint, MI, birthplace of Chevy Trucks. I'd have been a millionaire by age 30 if I hadn't owned so many Chevys back then.



Blessings,
Mark

Probably both sides are bad. Over 75,000 ?

... even Toyotas are no match for me lol

Jack up the truck. Spin each front wheel by hand while listening for the noise. It will help you narrow it down.

Sometimes it is as simple as a brake shield bent/rusted or with slight damage from debris or ice.

Jack it up put a bar under the tire and see if you can shake it like it’s loose it should have some play in it if bad.

Switch from ve chili to meat chili?
The noise will come out the back.

Working on my Anglish.

She has 120000 miles on her. All highway miles. I've been expecting something to start trubble. The AC has been losing Freon too but that's the least of my worries now.

Snow and ice build up can create temporary noises in vehicles too.

Keith

Right front hub/bearing assembly. It's *almost* always the side that gets louder when more weight is put on it. Very occasionally I see it on the side with less weight around a corner, I'm not sure how to explain it. Spin them up in the air, you'll hear the difference. Super simple,way easier (but more expensive) than old style bearings. It's one piece, and the abs sensor and tone ring is incorporated into it. The new one will come with a new sensor. Three bolts from the backside of the knuckle, and the axle nut if it's 4x4, and it'll come off. You may have to beat it off, they tend to get corroded in the knuckle. A little sandpaper to the knuckle and some antisieze will prevent it next time.

When the wheel comes off that’s the bad one.

Thanks for the help guys. Jerry, stick to skunks.

Had to change both front hubs on my chevy truck 600 for parts the labor was free then the CV joint went out on the left side now the right side is out. So you may be spending a lot unless you do it yourself.

I will do it myself to save some $$. I expect the other side to go soon.

More grease.
Less Lonestars.
Will fix your issues.

I would suspect the front wheel bearing(s). Those sealed units don't last forever. Isn't like old days when you took the bearings out and regreased them.

If you can wait for delivery order them on rock auto. You might be able to get both bearings for the price of one at the auto parts store.

Definitely do them both when you have the tools out. There not that much money. Like loose goose said, sometimes you have to pound them out. After that clean real well with sandpaper/wirewheel and coat with never seize. Then install

I watched a Youtube video. Now I'm a pro. Actually I went to trade school in Laramie for auto mechanics back in '74 but vechiles have changed a bit since then.

Change the wheel bearings. Inspect the spindle when you get them off should be cake. I have seen brakes do it but sounds like wheel bearings.

Yep , time to change the front hub/bearing assemblies

May as well put new rotors and pads while it's apart


Just did mine ( 2016 ) wt Silverado a few months back

Rock Auto does seem to have great prices most of the time

.... worst advice I’ve ever heard June

.. and I grease my u-joints every hundred thousand miles wether they need it or not lol

.... hub assembly is what my wife’s tahoe ended up being... bought the assembly... jacked it up and put a chunk of fire wood under there.... cranked the bolts out of the old one and bolted the new one in... a few bolts and a plug was all there was to it... fairly easy fix

... the traction control light was going nuts as well as the noise from the hub

Like Loosegoose and Savell said, it's an easy job. I've never had to pound one off. Don't overtighten the spindle nut.
Also, you can sometimes tighten a slightly loose bearing and get some more miles out of it if you want to. There's not a lot of adjustment room on those spindles but there is some. I've done it and kept running for probably 15-20k miles before replacing. Another reason not to overtighten it when new.

Haven’t yet read the replies but that’s the only thing I’ve had replaced on my Silverado so far and it apparently is common. Jack it up whichever tire is loose is the winner. My mechanic suggested their like gloves when you change one you should change the other. They follow close together. I didn’t listen. I should have. Wasn’t three months behind the first.

Should be a 36 mm nut on the axle, 15mm 12 point i think that holds the brg on. I loosen the bolts and hammer on them to get the bearing off. Order new bolts when u get your bearing, the hammer isnt to nice to them. Its not a hard job, just do what the others said about the antisieze and sandpaper. Your bearing is probably original and going to be stuck on there.

I've been buying my stuff like that from Detroit axle. Good prices. Free shipping.

Yeah don't just hammer the axle nut on with an impact, it's hard on the bearings. Use a torque wrench.

Turn the radio up real loud and the noise will go away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Classic bad front wheel bearing symptom. Now which one is the tricky part. As others have mentioned jack the front end up and spin each wheel by hand, also check for slack in the bearing in the same manner you would checknfor ball joint slack.

Don’t know what you use your truck for or what conditions you drive it in. But I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado that I use as a work truck driving miles of logging roads that expose my truck to fine silt. The wheel bearings in this truck can not withstand these conditions. I’m on my 3 rd set of front wheel bearings in 60,000 miles. That’s why my other pick up truck is a Toyota Tundra.

That almost happened to me on my 3 year old Silverado ...so close

Right side almost came off. 72,ooo miles. Just out of 7 yr.70,ooh mile warranty.

My knock around car, an older Toyota Corolla with 150K on it started making noise when I turned to the left if I remember correctly. My immediate thought was something in the front end going bad. i jacked it up but could not find anything lose or sloppy in the wheels or drive train. It only made the noise under load and not even all the time so I figured something was just starting to go south but not far enough along to leave me stranded so I did not rush it to the shop to get it checked out.

Then I noticed that the carpet on the passenger side front floorboard was damp and figured I had a heater core leak but no antifreeze smell and and no coolant loss.

Turned out that the condensate drain line was stopped up and when I turned left with the AC blower fan on, the collected water would get into the fan and make the noise I was hearing. And it would also leak out and keep the carpet wet. Got the drain cleaned out, the carpet dried up and the noise went away. It was amazing how much it sounded like a bearing in the front end going bad.

Detroit Axle has them for $92 bucks each! Thanks for the tip.

Be careful of some of that cheap stuff. I never tried Detroit axle bearings but have used several other bargain bearings. About a year or so later, the customer was back with the bearings out.

I'll still put cheap ones in for certain people, but I go with National or Moog for folks that want it "fixed".

Invest in a hub pulling tool. Trust me you will be glad.

Well I want good parts since I'm 1800 miles from home now! I think Moog was $128 from Rock Auto.