OK car gurus...

2014 Jeep Patriot, 2.4 L 4 cyl.

Problem started the other night. Vehicle had sat for a week or two. Started it up, engine light came on, rough idle (misfiring) and weak acceleration/low power.

Hooked up the reader to the OBD port. Got 4 codes...

P0304 (cylinder 4 misfiring)
P0340 (camshaft position sensor)
U110E (ambient temperature sensor)
U1403 (implausible fuel level signal received)

Is it scrap, or worth attempting to go through and diagnose/fix all the individual symptoms?... Or is there one failure tying all these together?

Mike

I would look at air filter , you may have a mouse nest somewhere.

I'd look for some mouse damage. Cylinder #4 is the one all the way on the driver's side. Cam sensor may be in that area too. Mr. Mouse may have had himself a snack.

I'd look at the camshaft position sensor, problem is it can be an intermittent problem that gets worse as it continues to fail.

Scrap it, buy a Subaru. And a pair of Birkenstocks.

I can't afford all the stickers for one.

Mike

Fix it

Might be plugs and wires

... hope you get it fixed brother.... I’d get mad and light on fire lol

Lol at both of yous guys. Funny stuff.
Try unhooking the battery and charging it alone first.
Reset the codes if the battery unhooked didnt do it, run it,
and see if they pop back up. Sometimes a low/or dying battery
will throw codes. The computers get goofy and doesnt send
signals where they need to go.

My wife’s 2016 Cherokee had all kinds of lights coming up. Key fob battery low, 4x4 unable to engage, transfer case. Shift from park to drive and it slammed into gear. Engine would hardly rev up. Turned out was a low battery. Funny with the high tech cars this one told me all these things that were wrong except for what was wrong! Great technology jeep.

See what i mean? If the battery isnt tip-top, the multiple computers
that run todays vechiles (lol) dont have the juice to run all the injectors,
power the emissions crapola, etcetera. Hopefully it's just a low battery, because
they sure arent lasting like they used to, but itll still be cheaper than chuckin
parts at it.

Funny you guys should mention that...

Wife got a wild hair and decided SHE was going to retrieve the codes. Went out, plugged in the reader, started the car and got one code. She knew there were more but didn't know how to scroll for the rest. She shut the car off and came in and told me what she had got.

So I go out and open the door. Alarm starts dinging and DIC says 'Key In Ignition' but keys are in my hand. Put the key in the ignition, try to turn it over... Headlights and every idiot light on the dash lights up... DIC says NO BUS and the car won't start, won't even crank or click.

Wife is standing on the porch. I get out. Look at her and say, "What the @*#$& did you do?" Should've seen the look on her face... I let her sweat for a minute and then let her off the hook.

Bust out the phone, do a quick search and it recommends pulling the battery cable. So I do. Wait 60 seconds, hook it back up. Hook up the reader to the port... Car starts up, runs like crap. But I'm able to retrieve the codes. Shut it down and look up what the codes mean... Make post on T-man.

Guess I'll test the battery first. No cost to test. Easy fix it it's bad. Then go from there.

Mike

Well be nice if it is the battery, easy enough fix. Last thing I thought of on my wife’s Cherokee because this happened couple years ago and the car was only 3 years old. This Cherokee will never live up to the 98 Cherokee I had. Over 300,000 miles on that one.

Can be moisture in the junk gas they sell

The alternator has to produce at least 13/14 volts for the computer and electrical components to work properly. Getting it running and check voltage at the battery. Should be 14 or more running. If not it's the alternator. If it is close to 14 or higher its the battery. If those two are good it's a sensor.