Archery gurus...bow tiller

I was was recently gifted a Bowtech Carbon Icon in like new condition. I need to drop the draw weight on it as my advancing years have left me wanting in the strength department. Anything I need to pay special attention to when I back the limb bolts out?

roll them back exactly the same amount there is a way to tiler tune you bow for you but you really need to be able to shoot atleast 50 yards and shoot a decent group to do this..

It's these cams that have me concerned. Cam timing? I've never had a problem tuning a bow in the past but they have become a lot more sophisticated in recent years. I've done 'walk back' tuning for center shot. I always measured from the limb pocket to the string for tiller. I guess I just need to dive into it and figure it out. Thanks for the input, Glen.

If the cams are in time before adjusting the draw weight down, they should stay in time if you adjust the draw weight down, if you adjust each limb bolt the same amount. Still check your tiller just like you did in the past. Check cam timing at full draw before adjusting weight, if off it will probably require twisting a cable.

Before you back your bow off make you go by the manufacturers guideline on how far you can back the bow off. I agree with a little heavier arrow for more kenetic energy. Even though my wife shoots an arrow that is about 350 grains with a 100 grain replaceable blade broadhead and 40lbs draw weight. She has taken 2 deer with this setup and has had complete pass through. Alot depends what type of game animals you want to hunt. Shoot as much weight as you can comfortably shoot without it becoming work.

Thanks for the input, guys. I started bowhunting in 1986-87 and I think my first bow was a PSE Mach Flite 4. It was an eighty pound draw weight with 50% let-off. I hunted with it at 75 pounds. I couldn't begin to do that today. It was one noisy bow. They've come a long ways. The last new bow I bought was a Hoyt Trykon and it didn't live up to the hype. Still noisy and finicky to shoot. I liked the Havoc better.

I'm thinking this Bowtech will be a much quieter and smoother shooting bow than what I've been living with. I killed a fair number of deer with a bow shooting 200 fps. That's plenty adequate in the woods at twenty yards.

Thanks for all the input and I'll let you know how I make out.

The old Mach 4. They were a fast noisy bow. I shot 26 inch arrows through mine at 73 lbs with a 6 inch over draw. Took alot of shooting to get used to that bow. But what that bow could do was amazing back in those days. It doesn't compare to the new bows of today now. Good luck and keep it fun.

First off....you don't need to shoot to 50 yards. As posted above, a compound bow in the 50lb range will shoot plum through any whitetail or black bear roaming your state of Maine. Also some good advice to Mark your limb bolts. I haven't shot a compound in many years, just recurve and longbow all in the 45 to 50lb range with either Douglas fir or cedar arrows, I kill most my deer at 10-15 yards and none over 20. Point is enjoy archery and don't get caught up in all the BS about heavy draw weights and long distance wounding, I mean "hunting". If you not comfortable working on your bow look up a local pro shop and have them help ya out. Good luck!

Lol, that sounds just about like what I was shooting. You wound up with a brace height of about three inches and a broadhead hanging just over your wrist. I blew a limb on that bow and don't recall its fate. I still have a twenty year old Hoyt Havoc that's completely serviceable with the original string and cables. Good times.

If you have a double cam bow, you can measure tiller from the bowstring. If it’s a single cam you need to
string some dental floss or other small diameter tuff string from axle to axle to measure to. That’s straight from a Bowtech technician. Learned that from a Bowtech VFT EXTREME with excessive nock travel.