knife sharpener, which one?

I am wondering which knife sharpener you all use. I have a few stones but looking for something that can put a edge on fast and then I can just touch up with my stones.

I like my Lansky five-stone sets, I have one at camp and one at home. Been using them about thirty years. I had to replace the stones on the home set after about twenty-five years of use.

Just bought a paper wheel kit and let me tell you it's the only thing I'll use from now out. I used a Gato (same as lansky) for years but with the paper wheel I can do a handful of knives in the time it takes to do one with the stones.

Work sharp

WS

https://www.harborfreight.com/1-in-x-30-in-belt-sander-61728.html

Get the Accusharp. 3 swipes and you can shave with it. $10 about anywhere. It tends to take alot of material off your knife, but it's quick when you need an edge.

RADA knife sharpener for me. Easy to use, puts a good edge on knife and doesn’t need electricity

X2 I also have a home and travel/camp set. I've also had to replace a couple stones. My camping one just has 3 stones, and I find it does quite well,

I never use the Extra Course and almost never use the Ultra Fine stones Bearcat. So the standard three-stone set would be fine for me as well.

I use a Victorinox Honing Steel between sharpenings at home and at camp and it really extends the amount if time between hitting the stones.

I wore out an Extra Coarse Daimond getting an angle on an old Gerber my dad had owned for 20 years and never been able to get sharp. After I get the angle set I generally only use the three, and it takes just a couple minutes to sharpen one up, that first time of cutting the angle on a hard knife though the Extra Coarse is nice, and it can take a while. Been doing the wife's kitchen knives, and it is close to an hour per knife on the big ones to cut the angle, but next time they dull up it only takes a couple minutes.

That extra fine is only used on one knife I own. And I can't tell much difference between using it and making a few extra passes with the fine.

I just bought a lansky style work sharp. Has a rotating three grit sharpening surface. 340, 600, and ceramic. You can also dial it dry own to a 15 degree edge. Works great!

I literally have almost every type of system out there. The big thing is how well can you free hand sharpen? You can get guides for about all of them, Belt sharpeners will end up putting a convex edge your knife. Not saying its a bad thing but if you want to use your stones on the knife later, its going to take more work than you thought. If you use a dunn/paper wheel type system, youll get the same kind of deal but a concave/hollow ground edge. Either way youll be doing reprofile work with the stones. So if you want to keep with your stones, the lansky type systems are what youll want.

BTW you dont touch up with stones, thats your strop or steel.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ this right here…..got one a couple months ago…easy to use ….and a wicked edge

If you do go with a work sharp, spend a few bucks more for the Ken Onion version.

work sharp

Thanks guys, I have the Lansky 3 stone set. I might look up the work sharp and check it out

Want fast , go , work sharp Ken Onion with blade grinder attachment

and a diamond steel for in between

the blade grinder gets a hair popping edge in a few minutes , you can re-contour blades re-bevel , finish handles on knives your building as long as it isn't too many

I get the Red label belts now , they are a little better deal than the work sharp belts

when I got mine there was a youtube review where the guy gave a code to order direct from work sharp and get 15 or 20% off not sure if the code is still good but it can save you some

the stopping belts and buffing compound really take sharp to arm shaving sharp , very well

ince I ground many of my knives that were in need of a new bevel , then I only need the finer belts like 1000, 3000, 6000 when I get dull most of the time I am using a few licks on the diamond steel every few uses of the knife and it keeps very good for a long time

it also helps to have a good light looking right down at the blade and grinder , you see the bur roll from the edge your grinding , you flip the knife and watch the bur roll , when you see this bur roll along the entire edge 2-3 times change belts to the next finest , you will keep rolling that back and forth 2-3 times per belt then switch to finer , at the final stages of stopping it will disappear. but you need good light to see it

I've used these for years & it's as fast as anything out there. When you see the bur roll from one side to the other it's time to buff it on the other wheel with compound, then a few licks on an old leather belt. This whole process takes a couple of minutes at most and you don't have to screw around changing belts. This will result in a wicked sharp knife. As with any system keeping the knife touched up with the steel while you are using it will keep it sharp for a lot longer.

I looked at paper wheel , it looked like it would also make an excellent edge and fast hollo ground vs convex

portability was a major factor for me , I wanted something I could take to deer camp or fish camp , over to my dads or to a friends if we were butchering

also being able to use it for grinding scales and using it on tools like garden hoes this is the one use I have for the actual knife sharpening attachment other than that I use the ken onion grinder attachment.

If portability wasn't an issue , I may have gone paper wheel

if I didn't go do family members knives when I visit , I don't think I would need it as portable , once you put a good edge on a knife , you can cut a bunch of hours with just a diamond steel for touch ups.

changing belts sounds like a hassle but it only takes a few seconds on the ken onion grinder

I have a work sharp and the paper wheel. I prefer the work sharp.

Another vote for the Rada, quick, easy and cheap enough you can get one for each room, vechile, lol.

the rada is more like a steel than a sharpener

it lines the "teeth" back up to make it sharper , but never takes any serious metal off

you can get by with a steel for a while , a diamond steel for a lot longer possibly years , but at some point you need a way to knock that bevel back if your cutting edge is a V the more you sharpen the wider the V gets making it less easily sharpened , that is when the

this explains the angles and why and types of bevel I do most kitchen knives to a 20 degree with the work sharp when they are sharp I just keep using 20 , this gives a good amount of time I can just use the diamond steel before the V has gotten too wide and cutting efficiency is lost

this is the ken onion blade grinder aka the elite bundle

there comes a time for most where repair and reprofile are needed , nicks in the blade , broken tip or you have worked that V wide with the diamond steel or stone and you need to reprofile back to that 20 degree angle

I agree 100%.

Yep. Buy the accusharp brand only. Like a razor in a few passes. I have 5-6 of them, in the truck, house, fur shed, shop, boat... etc...

I love mine, works like a champ...

I use a Work Sharp and a water stone that is 3000/8000 grit. Which ever I use, I finish and maintain my knives with a F.Dick hyper steel to keep my edge straight. Best tool ever.

Same here. I have the same model.

X2