Question on 330 Stands

So I have 8 or so Bridger 330's lying around collecting rust figured I might as well try and use em . Gave em a acid bath painted em and just got about 80' of 1/4" hot roll to make some stands for them. Figured they would save me a good bit of dinking around looking for sticks and the like. Anyhow this is what I came up with after some YouTube some archive reading and asking on fb.



I think I'm doing this right, gotta bend it a little so there no slop and move my bottom bar up more but was curious, you gay who use these things alot, what's something you wish they came with out if the box ? Or something you feel could be improved on ? On thing I'm seeing honestly is mabye welding a nut or lock washer to the side to give so I can wire the stand to my trap so it won't get lost after a catch. But never used 330's ( conibers in general really) and wanted to see what y'all think.
Thanks !

The only think I might change is the bottom crossbar.maybe move it up so its about 2 inches below the other crossbar.Depending on the bottom you then might get away with slightly shorter legs.That'd be for beaver.

way too wide, your upper "H" should be tight on the rivets...upper bar could have a "V" in it to accomadate the dog

Yeah see I though that was weird but these 330's well they have like no gap what so ever. Can't get to the rivits. It's that normal for bridger 330's ?

Like was said, raise the bottom bar and make it tighter to the rivets. Other then that looks good.

So more like this ?

Yea looks good.

And are these 330's just weird or something ? Like their super tight like zero room from me to get the bar next to the rivets like folk are suggesting

Thats just life with magnum jaw 330s. Wouldnt get too uptight about the trap being a bit loose on the stand, at least not for under water sets.

Well did some bending and got the v thing worked out. What elese should I do ? There pretty dang snugwhwn I work the springs a little

Might make a few shorter versions for those hard clay bottoms if you have them.. they're a real pain on full length standa to shove all the way in.

Don't worry about the close to the rivet thing right now. You can bend them by hand later on the line if needed. They get bent up from time to time just getting banged around anyhow.

Yes, the magnums you need to set on the second notch is all with the H stands. No biggie.

I paint the tips a brighter color. Makes re setting the trap alot easier without having to remove the stand from the mud.

Nice work.

Great idea painting the tops.

Yep,right on wolfie.
if I was down your way I would buy a cople dozen of those off you.
I always seem to lose those things and trapseters.

Well I think they create a big vacuum (if you know what I mean). Especially since you asked " you gay who use these" and got response to the question. I'll only say I don't know what to think. Spell check maybe.
Me.

Can you tell me the dimensions on the picture?

Remember though trigger on bottom though.

The bent v picture looked the best.

Mine are 52"

move the top bar down to clear the dog when set with trigger on bottom,,no need for the "V" in the top bar.

when making stands for 280s and 330s, go to 5/16th material. far stronger and more stable in the ground. if you make tall stands for deeper runs, the beaver will twist the 1/4 inch rod into a pretzel.

use a cable to anchor the trap to something solid. run the cable from the anchor point, then between the 2 bars on the stand, then to the trap spring or chain. this way the stand stays with the trap and you wont lose them.

nice work.

Welllll .... I some how lost track of time .. I swear happens every time I weld anyhow this is what I ended up with , really snug on the traps, barely move at all , easy to build with a cutting wheel vice hammer and a lil welder . For all the pms ill try to post all the measurements and pic on how I built them tomorrow....today ... whatever also thanks for all the advice eveyone hopefully I can put one or two out




Side note..... New cage trap

They look good Wolfdog. Your cage trap making is getting top notch too
I'm also a tinkerer and love these posts.
Can't wait for your catch pictures

Nice job, but I wouldn't try to use the stand for a stake. I would use something more secure.

100% right ! Yeah the ring is just so it stays with the trap. I'm probably gonna just run cable extensions like 330trapper showed me a while back .

What I do is just run the extension cable between the horizontal bars of the of the stabilizer. That way it lets the beaver get away from the set and you cant loose your stand after a catch.

Looks like they'll work

looks good ,

If you make more just lower the top bar down a little for the dog no need to bend the bar. Plus if you leave enough room between the 2 bars you can use your foot in between the 2 bars to help push the stand into hard ground. Thats how I had mine made just a suggestion.

For what it's worth, I use a fair amount of 330's and stands. Seems you're always re bending something on a stand, out on the line. I welded a 3 inch chunk of steel tube just big enough to re bend stands, on top of my Estwing shingle hatchet. You could add a this to about any tool you carry, I guess. Just saves poking a hole in your gauntlets. I also use this to shape snare supports.

I think you're way over thinking the room you need to fire the trap with trigger on bottom. I make my stand pretty much look like this picture. I set my triggers on bottom most all time. Dog only needs room to pop off the bar and it closes. No point making extra work with one more bend. When I Madea bunch small stands for my 160. I made a jig on piece junk plywood. Weld the first stand. Lay on plywood tack in some finish nails in couple spot around rods. Then just drop in your rod pieces tack it all together pop it out weld other side. Might keep spray bottle water handy if you do enough plywood likes catch fire. If you want to keep the jig make it on piece sheet metal weld on 1/4 nuts to hold rods.


Mac

What welder are you using? The flux core or stick? both look like Harbor Freight. Been wanting one of the flux core $200 ones for small stuff like this.

Yep I use a few Bridges and a person doesnt have much room for the bracket between the spring eyes. Keep the bracket tight against the eyes and you should be fine.

I'll second the extension between the bars. Adding it to the trap will only make it have more to tangle into a birds nest.

Given that the author of the original post used "gay" in the singular rather than plural, we can infer that he was speaking to an individual rather than a group. Therefor logic would dictate that the intended audience was almost certainly Boco.
Not that there is anything wrong with it. No, not at all.

Yes, and I also hope it was seen in the spirit I ment, as a joke. Never know on here. It was late.

If you would make your bends the opposite way It would stabilize your trap better when It's set. Doing It this way the spring eyes will clamp down on the standing end better.

Yeah me and ADC where actually talking about that ! I made one to try but just plain didn't work with these 330's too dang tight. Even trying to put them on while the trap as unset just wouldn't work. Even went as far as using some flat stock and smart effects. Thinking they would definitely work with someone like some dukes though

I don't see much need to have a 330 set tight tight so it doesn't move except for sets where the ttap is in very dhallow water and they arent in a swimming situation

Welp... Reckon you guys where right about making them a bit longer. Next secs gonna be about a foot or more but these worked nicely






Guess I'm doing this right

And an Otter is hard on the 5/16 even.

Guess I'm doing this right crazy

Only problem i see is there is not ice in your beaver trapping pictures !

Bump before the archive,lotta good advice on stand building

Used H stands with 330s and 280s for a lot of years. Now I use this.


Works well on both. Totally adjustable for depth. Sharpened rebar can be hammered just about anywhere. Trap can be staked with the rebar.

Still like h stands for 220s most times.

Ted