Rust protection on your ride

Anyone get under their vehicle and spray anything to help protect from rust? What's your process and product?

This is a question for Coonman.

I had my truck sprayed with fluid film.

I spray woolwax and fluid film on mine once a year, seems to keep the rust away. FF seems to be better in the doors tailgate inside frame as it creeps good and is thinner , WW is heavier doesn't creep as much or wash off as easy.

back in the '70's Had a buddy whose whole family would spray the undersides, in the doors, back of fenders and anywhere else rust would form with waste oil.
After filling with waste oil the process was to drive down gravel roads and the dust would stick to the oil.

It was a one time deal, the car would be good for years after that.

His Dad drove a '63 Catalina that had been done years ago, no rust on it after over decade of Wisconsin winters and the thick salt they used back then. This was unheard of back then.

Anyone who lived back then remembers how bad the rust was. It was extremely rare to see a car older than 5 years without rust holes. If you did it was cause it was never driven in the winters.

Fluid film may work fine, I doubt it will work as good as waste oil.

Fluid film in doors, rocker panels, wheel wells, tailgate. 2011 ram that never sees a garage. No rust yet.

I have a 2007 dodge ram 3/4 ton. Have had it oiled with krown rust proofing every summer, There is no rust. Cost 130..00 can. Lot cheaper than replacing the veicle. old 243

I use oil and one of those automotive brushes.

As for behind the fenders, I take out the tailights & shoot a good stream of oil in there. Sometimes that oil needs to be thinned 1st.

I have rubbed grease on the wheel wells.

I wax the paint once or twice/year.

Remove all plastic plugs on the underside of both rockers and fill with Fluid Film…then reinstall plugs. Spray the entire under carriage…Fluid Film will not attack rubber bushings as bad as waste oil. Spray on the back side of the bumpers….spray in that little drain hole in all doors ..and the last place…that everyone forgets,is to let the spare tire down and spray uo there

I hit inside the tailgate too, as it seems to keep the bottom of it from rusting.

The body, under the driver door, seems to harbor a lot of rust. It's not always an easy spot to oil. I think that side gets rustier since it is nearer the center line.

Used motor oil. Apply with a cheap sandblast gun and compressor.

PB Blaster - Surface Shield

That is all the people need to know....

Be careful with used motor oil. It is a known carcinogen. Unless cancer doesn't scare you.

My mechanic used ot use automatic transmission fluid with fuel oil. He recommended 3 times a year, my 2004 and 1997 never rusted until the next owner. Now he used the Fluid film once a year. My S-10 is a '99 with no rust. Oh I have 2 vehicles one highway one a 2019 and the S-10 for more local use......jk

X2
I have used the waste motor oil in the past, then graduated to fluid film. Now, I prefer this PB Blaster product which has essentially the same ingredients as fluid film. However, it seems to have a couple advantages. The nozzle sprays a much better, more uniform pattern and it now comes in black. That black color helps a lot with ensuring I get coverage without missing any little spots. Any of the above mentioned products are better than nothing at all.

Fluid film here on anything that doesn’t get hot

I just used Fluid Film last autumn. I'm determined to keep my new truck rust free for as long as possible.

Fluid Film is awesome. It's non-toxic and I think it smells good. I'm so pleased with the stuff I'm now using it all over the place. It's working great on some of the equipment and machinery I keep in my detached garage/barn/workshop.

I bought a gallon of Fluid Film and a sprayer made specifically for it. I used less than 1/2 gallon on my first application so I should have more than enough left for a second application this coming autumn. Even with the cost of the spray gun, that makes it less costly than paying someone else to do it. And I believe I have superior product and I know it was done thoroughly.

With winter approaching, I try to oil as many rusty spots as possible. Some spots I grease, although oil seems to creep better

Waxing before winter is important too

Yes sir!

Every fall I crawl under my truck and spray anything that looks close to rust with either spray paint or fluid film. I haven't noticed the fluid film any better but it's a more neutral color and can get it into smaller cracks it seems.

Do it every year....Not a once and done, kind of thing. Especially around here in the land of salt.

I got the new ranger rustproofed,well worth it when I compare the ones I have had done with ones I didnt.
Lots of salt on the highways here.
Washing and waxing your vehicle once a month or so is Huge in keeping them rust free also.

One of them things we don't have to worry about down here....

Fluid Film does come in black, I just finished yesterday.......jk

where do you buy fluid film?

Just sell your furs and buy new trucks every so often and quit messing with goo.

Local to me Napa has it on sale right now. Tractor dealers have it for a good price too.

That's a lot fur these days. Might not be any animals left after you get enough for the first purchase with today's prices.

I spray my truck with used motor oil every Fall. Use a cheap sandblasting gun from Harbor Freight. It took about 3 gallons this time. It will bleed off for 10 days or so, so I don’t park on the pavement.

BB I used to have that done and it worked well, was only $35 at the time. 3 times a year. My 1999 and 2004 lasted rust free. The 2004 is now rusted because the new owner did not follow up treatments. But I own the 99 still and it is my everyday user, it is just easier to get the fluid film done and in hidden spots ut us still tacky from last years application. I am sold on fluid film......jk

I've never used fluid film but will look into it

I use used motor oil and and diesel fuel either in a spray bottle or a 1 gallon sprayer and coat everything underneath. have used wd-40 before too.

Wool wax and fluid film on my vehicles, you can get both in black so it looks pretty good underneath.

Wool wax under a vehicle. I haven't heard of that. 'Would be curious to hear more about what you are talking about

Lubed much of my truck last weekend. Messy, but worth it. This year we added a 1 gallon sprayer (like some people use for Roundup) to our truck treatment arsenal. Quicker than brushing or using handheld squirt bottles.

Today I oiled behind the front wheels with a tooth brush. It beat watching that lousy Packer game.
Taking off the wheel is the way to do it right. I can't afford a new truck buy try to take care of what I have.

Fluid film is better.

Peanut Butter Blaster? LOL

Just before the weather gets bad and the salt trucks come out I have my new truck detailed and tuck it into bed to hibernate in the garage until the salt season is over.

Batman also might chime in

Do you drive a beatah ...in the Wintah ?

I just had my new truck done last week with NH oil.

Nessy - no unfortunately we don’t have an extra beater vehicle for winter driving. We use wifey’s Expedition year round. Plus if necessary I do pull out the truck. It has an aluminum body, but want to keep the guts salt free. Usually not necessary since we are retired and life is local. We live in a rural area, but the local grocery store delivers like in the old days. They carry groceries right into the kitchen. The delivery fee is $2.50.

New fuel tanks and a coat of fluid film.

I think all this oiling is well worth it even though there's some people that think it just gets washed off in short order

As I look at my truck with all the salt all over it I'm sure glad I oiled it. Some people rely on washing their truck in the winter but it seems to just get dirty again so I think oiling is the solution

Fluid film is better.[/quote]
Well said.

I started using Wool Wax on a 2011 Nissan I bought from Oklahoma 3 years ago. So far there is no sign of rust.



The corrosion of various salts hasn’t changed through the years but the amount we spread has. The quality of our vehicles has increased dramatically, especially when it comes to corrosion prevention and coatings (paint). The US used basically zero road salt before WWII and now we use 22.5 million tons every year. All that salt goes somewhere and that is largely our lakes, rivers and ground water. And once it is in the water it is basically impossible to remove. This applies to whatever we used to prevent rust on our vehicles, also.

So I use Wool Wax because I know it will break down fairly quickly in the environment unlike mineral oil based solutions. The various DOT’s are working at using less salt and I know the municipality I call home is doing the same.

I was at Auto Value today. I'm not sure what wool wax is but is this the fluid film you guys are always talking about on T-man?

That’s the stuff.

They also sell it in gallons....get a sprayer ...and an air compressor....and your in business

And DO NOT...get the undercarriage wash.....at the car wash in the wintah time.

Another thing I dont think many people do while washing their vehicle, open your doors and wash out under the rubber seal of the door and the rocker. No automatic car wash will do that.

Do you mean after it has been treated with fluid film or just in general?

I had a 1998 F 150 that I owned for 23 years before I traded it off. I drove it on salty MN roads to work in the winter but not so much after I retired. When I traded it off, it had NO rust and I had never treated the undercarriage, BUT I kept it clean and ran it through the car wash regularly including washing the undercarriage in the winter. It also lived in the unheated garage when not in use. My new vehicle is aluminum so I don't worry about the body but will still wash the undercarriage in the winter. If It will go 20 years, it will certainly outlast me.

Use to thin trap dip, put it in a pump up sprayer and spray the truck.

I fluid film my truck in November......no undah carriage wash until June

You guys’ DOTs must use a different salt than we do. Or maybe just more? We don’t have trouble with vehicles rusting. I use lots of salt/salt sand when I’m plowing on state roads, cause I can’t go home till the road is clean pavement edge to pavement edge lol. Straight salt in town, salt/sand on the highway. I’ve never even heard of spraying the undercarriage until I read it on here

Y
You don't use any of the spray on brine mix? Lots of that used here.

I know Rusty Jones didn't do much on my only new vehicle back in 86.

WS

Trapdog1 we use granular salt and magnesium chloride sprayed on salt/sand mix

Got ya. Here they use some kind of brine mix sprayed directly on the roads. Not sure what all is in it. They say it doesn't work if its too cold.

I’ve heard of other stations doing that but we don’t. We almost never get really cold temps though. The mag chloride really only works if you get the timing right for us. If you apply it just as the snow is starting to stick or as a pretreatment it keeps the snow from bonding to the road and slushes it up so it pushes off easily. Doesn’t do a lot of good once the snow is thick and compacted, at that point it can actually make the road more slick. The salt we use is basically the same stuff you throw on sidewalk.

Over the last twenty years or so I had a 96 Honda Civic, a 96 Dodge 3/4 ton SLT and a 2000 GMC 3/4 ton van rust out to the point where they couldn't pass inspection without thousands of dollars worth of repairs to the frames. This was after replacing many steel parts on the undercarriage; all brakes lines multiple times, fuel filler necks, gas tank straps, etc. My current 2008 Tundra is getting really scaly, I've already replaced the rear bumper on it.

I think Penn DOT uses calcium chloride and I know they spread calcium chloride flakes year-round on the dirt roads around my camp. They use it at camp just to keep the dust down, most of those roads are not winter maintained.

So my vehicles get a double dose I guess. It takes a toll. Without the rust issues those vehicles could have lasted much longer.

Wow. My dad is still driving my grandpas ‘94 Chevy half ton, and not a speck of rust on it. He also has a ‘95 Chevy 3/4 ton, has over 300k miles and also no rust. Around here the motor is shot LONG before the frame rusts. Some of our vehicles are on their second or third engine

Too bad coonman isn't around to contribute to this thread.

That's why western ..high plains ...cars and trucks are sought after

I have a California car 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix....it always draws a crowd when its up on a lift..at the local gas station for an inspection. Still has the original gas tank..gas lines..brake lines..floors..trunk..it's a time capsule

You guys really have to replace gas tanks and brake lines before your motor and tranny go belly up?

Yes in Virginia. I don't really want to talk for other states.

I've never had to replace tanks or brake lines due to rust. But we don't have vehicle inspections here. An inspector might insist that some be replaced.

Bob you seem to be comparing Nevada to places with actual winter. 6 months of winter and salt being used will cause rust. Lots of tips on here.

FF every year on my Ram.

Ice liquid wax from turtle wax.
Bare metal I put axle grease on.
My ram is 21 years old , 454k miles on the Cummins, four pin holes of rust on a couple fenders,most rams rust bad

I bought some sort of bare metal cab corners online to instsll on top of the rust hole behind my drivers door. I had never heard of them but a friend of mine put them on his truck and it looked professional.

I’ve never had to get rid of a vehicle due to drivetrain issues. It was always because of rust issues. Lots of vehicles now come with plastic gas tanks and stainless steel exhaust systems and stainless steel brake lines are available. I would guess this is due mostly to the issues with vehicles driving in the salt in north eastern states.

See it every day up here

Fluid film every year.

A good old fashioned front cover/oil pan leak will keep most of the frame and central underbody rust free. Just make sure to check the oil level often.

I bet you wish you could do a professional job like this. LOL

Looks like your having fun !

You'd have laughed if you could see how I did it. lol The galvanized sheet metal I picked up out of a ditch years ago finally came in handy. Shouldn't rust as fast.

Did you weld that galvanized stuff....or pop rivet

Welded it with a fan to blow away the fumes. I've welded quite a bit of it over the years, it does suck.

Dad had pop riveted, galvanized lower quarters on his 67 GTO in the early 80s.

Great thread. Thanks to everyone that contributed. Lots of great info.
In the NorthEast we get a crap ton salt on our roads and battling rust is a way of life.

Thanks for the posts, I learned some stuff.

Mac