Off road manual transmission tips ? update

Ok so new farm truck in a little five speed 2wd Ford ranger . Dad just kinda bought it for next to nothing and said here learn to use it . Had to sell my Nissan ( money pit) and our GMC3500 is a bit too big to get to alot of places so yeah. Anyhow never drove stick so I've been watching YouTube videos like crazy and I've gotten past having this thing smell like I lit the clutch on fire ( never ground any heard though so I got that going for me ). Anyhow I think I'm good enough for driving on the pavement but off road is a little rough. Been practicing in the cow fields around the house everyday after work and I thi knives got a decent grasps but still struggling.So couple of questions.
1. For a 2wd manual off road what gears should I be using? Been trying to mess around with 2nd and 3rd but honestly 1sr seems to do the best
2. Is 1500rpm too much to get my self going in first ? Seems my truck need that much to get moving good and not stall out
3. I was listening to a video on my way to work about driving off road with a manual and they where saying it's really good to have a manual modified so you keep it crawling with really low RPM's. Think there's was a jeep. How would a guy go about doing that ? Makes sense to me for the most part. Deal is I don't have anything thing like a low or high gear so not sure if it's something I can even do
4. Going up a hill in 1st giving it gas, get about 2000 rpm and it stalls out if I'm off the clutch completely. Is that normal ? I've played with working the clutch as I go up in rpms when I feel it about to stall out and that seems to work pretty good but I'm not 100% if that's the proper thing to do,as the first time I did it I really smelled like I did some work on the clutch lol
5. If I'm climbing a hill and stall out, any way I can consistently not go flying back down the dang thing? I mean it seems if I break before I stall out and stay in gear it keeps it's self there but if I wasn't on the brak and I stall it's game over and I'm flying. The break don't seem to help much with that either

I'll probably have some more soon but that's about it for right now. Sorry if these are kinda stupid btw but again never drove a stick much before this I'm self teaching and, and YouTube actually doesn't have a tone on How to off road with a 2wd 5speed lol .


So update just wanted to show what I've been practicing on the last month or so. Mainly been trying to learn how to go up and down these little hills in the pasture. Going up stopping mid way turning the truck off sand trying to start and get the rest of the way back with minimal roll back. Little bit of a pain with this slick grass in the mornings though.

Don't ride the clutch. You need to give it more gas instead of more clutch going uphill. Keep the rpms going

Keep that left foot off the clutch unless actually shifting gears and then only to shift smoothly.

Nasty habit of resting the left foot on the clutch pedal can cause slippage that'll burn up a clutch.

Forget the rock crawling videos you don't have enough terrain there to be considered off road. Drive it like you would on the street just slower.

Learn to "feather" the clutch and gas at the same time so as clutch engages RPMs take over smoothly.

when you get it stuck pull it out with the tractor

otherwise first is your friend you will use first and second a lot

yes it is probably geared for highway driving

you would replace the gears in the rear end to make it lower but probably isn't nessacary when they talk crawl they are talking about going places you should never take a 2wd ranger

you get fast with the clutch , does it have a parking break

as you let the clutch out your foot slides brake to gas and the brake pedal will actually slap up

practice , my son stalled so many times when he got his S-10 you learn , learn better on not steep but you learn

shift if you hit 4-5K but no worries running at 3k in first climbing a hill don't try for the next gear just get up the hill

keep your momentum without going too fast that you can't control it

Good advice from the others. But from what I understand you are saying it stalls out when you get UP to 2000 rpm? If it is stalling out as you are revving it up and will only run at lower rpms, then that is an issue with the truck, not your driving.

It is probably higher geared than is ideal for putting around on the farm, so you are going to be using first a lot, and slipping the clutch to take off or go slow enough through the real rough spots. Only real way to fix that is to put lower gears in the rearend, or put a two speed transfer case in; neither probably feasible in a freebie truck of limited value. One of the big advantages of a four wheel drive, besides the obvious of power going to both axles, is the two speed transfer case and low range. A fair number of rockcrawlers like you are watching on youtube actually install multiple transfer cases so that they can really crawl.

When you master stopping on a hill then moving forward without any rollback you've got it down.

Used to be required on the driving test if you showed up with a stick to have you stop at one of the railroad crossings, the raised ones, then proceed across. Any rollback was fail.

I can't even remember when I forgot how to drive a manual. I do remember my little sis learned to drive one in a few hours, like a champ.

What everyone has said. I have a 92 2wd 5 speed ranger I got when I was in high school, still use it for trapping hunting farm duties. We could post ad nauseum about way you should drive, but good ol practice is best. House I grew up in was off a 2 lane highway, steep gravel approach to pavement, left turn to head to town. Stressful on a 15 y/o headed to school on a rainy morn.
Yes, that truck is geared high, but being light it will surprise you where it will go when you learn to use the 5 speed to your benefit.

If it's stalling you are in too high of a gear . Crawling around in a pasture field 1st is all you need

Had an 83 that I could get in and out of places a buddy with a jeep wouldn't try. They are pretty light, small and nimble. Though it wasn't immune to mud or deep ruts.

The only weakness was that it wasn't a truck to be used as a truck. Trying to haul hay and firewood like it was a F150 destroyed a transmission and a couple clutches.

Unless you have a low range gear (only found in four wheel drive models), are will not be able to creep along with that truck. If you need better traction in snow or mud just put some weight in the back.

BTW, before someone else points it out, there used to be some older two wheel drive manual transmission trucks that had a "granny gear", that was first gear, but you nearly always started out in second gear as though it was first.
I had a 66 Chevy with a 327 that was set up like that. You could go nearly everywhere with that truck if you had some weight in the back.
Wish I still had that truck, sold it in 1980 for $300.

If its for driving around off road you'll want lower gears (higher numerical number, 4:10s are lower than 3:10's)
Figure out your gears and see if there are lower rears cavailable (junkyard)
Also I notice that the tires look to be fairly tall, smaller dia tires will help also.

Never drive around slipping the clutch in and out, get it out and keep going, if your stalling you need more rpm's, lower gears and shorter tires will give you more rpm's too.

You need lower (numerically higher) gears. You can spend $1000+ on new gears and a limited slip differential, or you can go the junkyard route. A rear axle from a similar vintage explorer will physically fit right in there. The upside is that, with a little looking, you can find an axle with 4:10 years, a limited slip, 31 spline axles, and rear disc brakes. It'll bolt right up to your driveshaft and your wheels will fit just fine. The down side is that it'll require some modifications. The spring perches, and possibly the shock mounts, are different. Theyll need to be cut off the bottom of the axle, and new ones welded on top, of course making sure you've got the proper pinion angle. From what I've seen of your fabbing abilities, it shouldn't be a problem, it'll just take a little research and proper planning. You may need an adjustable proportioning valve for the brakes too, I'm sure a little google searching would answer that question.

Only one way to learn a standard. Just keep driving. Dont over think it. Listen to the engine.

Time to start working on upshifting without the clutch and double-declutching on the downshifts. "Heal-and-toe" on gas & brake pedals, left foot for clutch.

Love driving a stick-shift.

First off is the clutch is only used to keep from stalling when taking off. You are making the clutch slip doing this. That wears down the face of your clutch plate. After it is rolling keep your foot off the clutch pedal. The more you slip the clutch the faster your clutch plate will wear out. Practice on the flat or as close to it as you have access to. Once you get the take off on the flat down then practice the hills and such. NEXT you need to learn about mud. Not all mud is created equal.

You need to know the limitations of your truck. It will NEVER be a rock climber. I don't recall you saying what engine you have as that is also a limiting factor as well. Larger engines will give you more torque. If it is bucking you are in too high of gear.

Clutches aren't cheap and are a real PITA at best to replace.

Yes get used to shifting on the flat first.. Then practice on a slight incline. (NOT A BOAT RAMP) .lol You'll get it . It just takes practice. Then you'll be speed shifting. No clutch except starting from dead stop.
just

Lowes generally have large parking lots. Take it there after hours and learn to run it up and down the gears. Find a "not used a lot" road with an incline. Learn to stop on the hill and then get going again without rolling back.

Use the clutch shifting a gas engined pickup. It aint a peterbilt

1- always start in first gear , you should not need too much rpm above idle to get moving .
2- when upshifting always use the clutch to change gears - dont upshift without using clutch - hard on sychonizers.
3- once moving down the road and changing gears let the clutch out fully -then press the accelerator - dont feather the gas while letting up the clutch in 2nd-5th gear. - see alot of people do that.
4- when coming to stop signs ,dont down shift through the gears to engine brake - put it in neutral and use the brake pedal. Your clutch will last longer and its easier on the engine and transmisssion.
5- never use the clutch to stay stationary on a hill.


Ive had several manual transmission vehicles that ive put over 400,000 miles on each and never had to replace a clutch or transmission .

Also, the 2wd Rangers are geared more toward highway driving and are geared kinda high. The tires and wheels that would have came on that truck would have been 14" . What you have on there seem much larger than 14 inch ,which will kinda give you a higher gear effect .

Assuming the clutch is in good shape now. You posted this on wed. Drive it every day till next wed. You'll be wondering why you posted the question. 10 yr. old farm kids have been driving stick shift trucks for as long as there have been trucks. It's not rocket science, it just takes practice. On road, off road. One thing, forget that shifting without the clutch stuff to go faster. Always use the clutch. JMO.
Casexx

This ^^^ It's not a heavy duty straight truck or T/T with a big diesel engine. Those trucks are a lot different than a little 2WD ranger.
Just learn how to shift with the clutch on your ranger. You don't need to double clutch either on the ranger unless you're playing pretend truck driver. You also may tear something up too.

Don't even look at RPM, go by feel/sound. Start off in 1st, shift to 2nd, then 3rd, and then 4th to cruise if you have it.

Amen on use the clutch to shift. Now I know where the trucks that pop out of gear come from.

Some good advice here, and some not so good. Just get some seat time, you'll have it whipped in no time. One thing for sure, a 2x4 Ranger clutch job is an easy afternoon project. If it's able to stall the engine it's still holding well. Get some seat time.....

Just be glad it's not the old manual clutch, brake and steering three on tree I learned on. With dad to your right ready to slug you every time you killed it or dumped the clutch.

Those old manuals would give you a workout just getting out of the driveway. To this day I despise red light to red-light driving. First, second, brake, first, second, brake.

Best way to learn is just drive. The pickup will tell you when you’re screwing up lol. That’s how I learned to drive an 18 speed manual, trial and error. Just wait, once you get used to driving it, guaranteed you’ll get in an automatic transmission and try to mash the clutch pedal and shift out of habit lol

Well everyone thanks for the advice so far. Jaut wanna point some stuff out.
So I have been practicing about a hour a day everyday for the last two week. So far I think I'm pretty good at street driveing or driving on a pretty normal surface. Can start stop go to down shift to a known stop go into neutral can go back into first and go with mabye a foot or two of roll back max it seems. I can't really get a hang of this double clutching stuff though.i just listen to to he engine and when the rpms sound right I just clutch in and rip it down or up to the next gear, and let out on the clutch all easy like I mean seems to work just fine, I don't grind any gears ,but I do tend to get a little lurch Every now and then but I think that's just because I have it spooled up too much. Still don't know what it means to float a gear though and apparently I granny shift ... Idk.. So yeah pavement driving dosent really bother me that much
How ever goin up and down these has been my main problem
That's like a 35 degree incline I recokon, I can get up it just fine if I get a bit of momentum started but if there's grass and my wheel slips a little, or I slow down some how and I try and give it more gas and not do any clutch work at all it'll stall out. When it slips and feather the clutch in mabye half way it seems to make it grip and it will just lug it's way up. Can't seem to do that with out working that clutch, what's going on there ?
Also I've tried using 2nd in these hills alot and it just doesn't seem to do anything. I figured since I going up in rpms to try and get up these hills a little bit of a higher gear would be best but nope. So I just be kicking it on first getting some momentum and if I start to stall or skip I just feather the clutch in and out to make it bite. Not sure if that's right though. Seems to work and I can't smell anything burning soooo

BTW not going to lie......this stick shift stuff if pretty fun

how much weight do you have in the back?

about 200-300 pounds at the back and it will drive like a different truck

as long as you keep traction try first gear about 3000-3500 rpm and just keep it there you will be right in the middle of the power range of the engine but won't be any where near red line.

You don't have to double clutch it, and I really don't think you'll have time to. When you become more proficient, try this: when you get ready to shift, instead of stomping the clutch to leave a gear, ease off the gas. Releases force on drive side of geartrain, shifter will slide right out. As you cross neutral, clutch about 3/4 way down, drop it in and go. Your passengers won't look like they're headbanging, females like a smooth ride.

Those little rangers are pretty light in the rear and traction can be dicey, particularly with a stick with interruptions to power at the wheel. You might try carrying a few hundred pounds of gear back there.

My old beekeeping mentor drove an el camino and he solved that issue with a piece of half inch plate steel cut to fit the bed.

I know my little ranger all them years ago could get squirrelly on wet roads if I got to happy on the gas or tried hot rodding my shifts.

Smooth is good as is a good set of grippy tires on the rear.

So when you shift you’re not trying to match your gear to the rpms, you’re trying to match your gear to your rpms AND your speed, so when you lose speed going up the hill you need to downshift to get your gear to match your speed by pushing the clutch to the floor, revving the engine to what the rpms will need to be for the speed you’re going in the gear you’ll be going into and then shift down a gear, then it won’t lug and stall. DO NOT “feather” the clutch, unless you like replacing clutches. If you lose speed and start to stall, downshift. Your clutch should either be all the way in or all the way out, never “feathered”. With practice you’ll know when you need to downshift before the truck starts lugging so that you can keep your speed up. When you’re first learning to downshift on a hill you’ll probably end up crawling up it in first or second but with practice you’ll get there.

Also with pickups you don’t have to double clutch. Just shove it to the floor, shift, and let it back out.

Bring it down here for the weekend and I'll have you driving like the Duke boys

I was always told that gas was cheaper than a new clutch. Find a gear low enough and rev it so that you don't have to shift half way up a hill or through a puddle.

Lol that may not be the case anymore!

Why would be stall out ? I get used to clutch, mine has a high clutch release, took it get battery a col summer ago an guy farm store say my clutch worn out , took shop an say no it fine, always has high clutch release, he try get me to go some friend his ripoff shop , u get better at clutch,ride it is very hard or lug engine an stall very hard , I hate street const as got be careful manuveer around from 1st to reverse that don't bind clutch, reverse gear is hardest on clutch, I very careful not be hard or back much up hill or much, if u got ur air cond on, an 4cyl, I turn off air on hills with much shift in town,when older they can't take it an cause lot loss power, , I use air out open hiway a little when real hot only, I didn't use it at all on way to nta convention last summer an terrible hot go there back in 1day, the radiator junk out after trip an seals went out it in heat a day later

Exactly, drive it a bit and learn to feel it out.
I had an 86 ranger with the 2.0 (last carburetor that Ford put on an engine).
I beat the urine out of that little truck for 150,000 miles and my brother put another 200,000 on it before he gave it to a friend.
Since we are both bona-fide sons of our father, we religiously changed oil and filter every 2,000 miles. I'm sure that it contributed to its longevity.

You’ll know you have it mastered when you can squall tires in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. If you’re true Master status you’ll get a chirp in 4th!! I miss stick shifts.

with labor it still is , cause your mechanic still needs to buy gas also so shop rate is up

I have no idea what mechanics charge to be honest with you. My dad is my mechanic, he’s been a heavy equipment mechanic at a gold mine for 40 years, and he has a shop with a 2 post lift and triplicates of every tool you could think of 4 blocks from my house. If he can’t fix it, it’s FUBAR. I’m no mechanic but I’ve helped him with something like 4 motor swaps and built a ‘96 Ford dually out of 4 different wrecked pickups and some random little repairs the last couple months. He’s always buying broken cars dirt cheap, fixing them, and reselling for a profit.

Your gas pickup truck has what’s called a synchronized transmission- that means you don’t have to double clutch… it will go into whatever gear you want it to -even if it’s not the appropriate gear. it’s just gonna mess you up and cause more wear and tear on the clutch by double clutching . Just Push in the clutch and select the appropriate gear that you need for the desired speed based on the terrain and incline that you’re going to be going up or going down.



Yep this is correct- A good rule of thumb on climbing a hill is that the appropriate gear is the gear that you can drive up the hill without being under powered or having to downshift before you reach the top of the hill. You don’t want to be shifting mid slope when under load . When it comes to driving down that same slope a good rule of thumb is to be one gear lower than the gear it would take to power up that same slope uphill. If you can drive up a steep slope in fourth gear under adequate power without having to down shift than 3rd gear would probably be right for driving down that same slope downhill. This is a lot more important when you’re driving a semi or a heavy truck that weighs 80,000 pounds but nonetheless the same principles apply. No sense riding your brakes the entire way down the hill because you’re in two high of gear…

... haven’t read all the replies... and only goin off the title...but if hasn’t been said yet .. “ dump the clutch “ in about every situation lol

Here I thought it was a joke having a manual transmission was anti theft for millennial's ....

Well maybe this will help y'all see what I'm doin wrong

Back before I became shiftless (gave up the clutch to make it easier to drink my coffee) I also used the gears more than the brake to slow down. I didn't have to replace brakes in the 150,000 miles that I drove my Ranger.

... you’re beyond help Wolf

... like I said dump the clutch and shower down on it ol hand ... give them long sleepers some excitement and get up the dam hill! ... you’re too timid lol

WD91 That is normal for a manual /clutch to operate like that. You need to rev it up a little more to get it rolling then let the clutch out fully while increasing the gas at the same time!! It takes Practice. It is fun once you get the hang of it. If it smells like hot brakes you are slipping the clutch way to much. Have Fun!!

go to 2 grand right foot heel on the brake toe on the gas let out on the clutch as you let off the brake

if you have a working parking brake you would set the parking break , rev up to about 2grand as you start to let out on the clutch release the brake this is why many maunals have hand emedgency brakes or parking breaks

more rpm faster getting off the clutch (savell is saying dump the clutch , a fine line between a quick engadment and side stepping the pedal and letting it slap aka dumping the clutch

you are slipping the clutch to reduce engadment till your rpms are up

run the rpms up first

if you have a parking/ebrake your letting it go just as you start to pull against it and should have zero rearward movment

sometimes the answer is park different or don't stop if you don't have to

this guy isn't on big hills but you can see the pedal work

edit : better video in next post

This guys videos may help , you have to feel your engadment point



he lifts his foot off the brake I just slide right that brake can come up on it's own

off road this changes slightly you don't want to spin the tires and this where the hand/parking brake or heal toe can work for you.

.. y’all yanks are going to make me say this one more again ain’t y’all!

.. Wolf... rev it up .. dump the clutch and get it ol hand .. all there is to it ... any situation

.. y’all are the masters of over complicating things in here at times I swear lol

Burn out the clutch like a woman babying it,lol

Trade that poor thing in on an automatic.

OIL PRESSURE!! Hope that gauge is broke!

with labor it still is , cause your mechanic still needs to buy gas also so shop rate is up[/quote]
Good comeback.

Those models are known for the sensors going out. Had the same issue with mine

Depend on model an location country an shop, $700-$1000 for clutch , I say 1000 bucks easy

Ok so I finally went on the highway today. Just a like ten mile deal to the parents place. Had a few stops and some road work and I just have to say... Compared to driving on the dag blasted hills in the wet grass cow pasture it's was a piece of friggen cake ! Like seriously so easy she don't seem to like going past 69 very fast but I mean other then that easy peasy. Especially compared to running up these


And yeah I really need some weight and some better tires because holy crap 3500rpm in first goin up this hill literally had this skid mark smoking

Putting a clutch in a ranger aint a big deal. If you got a socket set with extensions a wobble joint and wrenchs you can get the clutch alignment tool on loan at any parts storee. It has an internal slave cylinder change it when you change the clutch. Give that thing some gas when you take off. Clutch is made for that

All You need now is two border collies to ride in the back and a blue heeler to ride in the front with you!!! LOL

toss a bunch of your fence posts and spools of wire in the back , and start looking for a used tool box for behind the cab so that you have more tools , it isn't really a truck it is a mobile tool caddy. and a really nice Hight for grabbing stuff out of the back

My pickup doesn't have any RPM indication, just the sound and feel of the engine. I typically shift by sound, feel, and speed. Practice, practice, practice, you'll get it down. Don't overthink it.

Month from now, you'll be making videos like 4banger mafia. Drag Racing 101 with manual / clutch

X 2 there are times I have more tools in my truck then in the garage.

Feathering the clutch WILL work at times to gain traction, but it will also wear the clutch out a heck of a lot faster. A better method is to feather the THROTTLE. If you have plenty of rpms when the tires start to spin, let up on the throttle then push back down on it easy until you just start to feel them break loose again, then back off it and repeat. You will kill it a few times learning how to do this, but you will be amazed how much better it will do than just mashing the throttle down and letting the tires spin.

Just keep doing what you are doing.

in a week or two when the clutch burns out, simply replace that five speed with an automatic and torque converter. Seriously! It ain't that hard and it is what that mogul terrain is made for.

Welp I got a collie... something and this pit whatever that count ?

You southern folks and your open air work areas.....Up in Northern Michigan 7 months or more of the year that pooch would be laying in snow! Most of your gear would be frozen down or missing till spring when the snow melts. One more thing, at least you're not learning that 5 speed in snow and ice! Whole nother skill set needed, but quite fun!!!

Come down to these parts and you can learn how to drive in the hills and rocks.

Yes siree bob.

He's going to be drag racing that Chevy Colorado from Dubuque,Iowa . I hope wolfdog91 wins.

What the world are you doing trying to learn to drive stick in a graveyard, Wolfie?!

Yes Sir, those two Dogs would make a Fine addition to your new Pickup Truck!!!!

Would be a close heat.
Southern truck stalling out & restarting engine.
Meanwhile Yankee truck stopping to apply &release the emergency brake to get the blower fan working, so he can see the Finish line.

LOL, dkrug .

Best place to practice.
Can't hurt anybody there.
And if you don't like the way he drives.
Stay Off the Sidewalks.

Nice pic Wolfdog,I can just picture you sitting under a tree in the shade sipping a mint julep.

... it’s 24 ounce Bud Ice around here lol

my prediction:

Somewhere along Memorial weekend we ought to be seeing a post asking how to swap out a manual for an automatic.