Snare lock options, Wolf

What locks are you using that are working?
It's been several years since I could put much time into snaring. This year weather permitting I plan on it.

I'm not interested in cam locks. Haven't used them in years, so my old brain forgot how frustrating it is to lose catches. I tried some last year, big mistake.

Thompsons with a cut have been what I used in the past. Unfortunately they are stamped from soft steel now and do not hold an edge.

Thanks for any advice.

HFT made some snares for me using mini-locks with kill springs. Hope to let you know how they work.
I know the Snare Shop Alaskan Snare Berkshires have a terrible track record, due to crappy steel.

AV they were Slim Loc's.

nooksack give Slim loc's a try, they work pretty dang good in crappy conditions, cut through ice on the cable and hore frost pretty slick. Pretty much all I run now and with a kill spring pretty lethal.

Nooksak we use to always use Thompson locks as well, but also noticed loosing the edge, and even lost a wolf due to the cut splitting open because of the softer steel, luckily we caught it in the next snare. We have switched to all cam locks and have the constant freeze thaw that you do. So far they have still produced for us quite well.

During the latter years of my trapping I used micro locks with a 50# coil compression spring very successfully on coyotes and a couple of wolves. I know they are considered a relaxing lock but when used with the spring they lock up well providing a quick dispatch.

I really like the amberg locks. If you use the slims make sure you use kill springs or they will relax when not under tension. They are really smooth and quick but a kill spring is a must!

Fish, it’s partially your fault I went back to cams after the last conversation
I tried some at wolverine sets to appease the federales since I can’t use cubby’s, and 4 day check on footholds. Lost three


HFT, that sounds like the lock I’ll try. Looks like the only way to add a release is crimp a loop and add an S hook? I am required, federales again.

I’m tired of water heads and chew outs and would sure like to find a solution.

Yikes nooksack sorry to hear about your bad luck

nooksack, this is Senneker's web page

https://www.schmittent.com/product-category/senneker-snare-parts

They should have everything you need, BAD"s, kill springs triggers and setters.

The BAD attaches to the loc and the cable is slipped through the bottom of the BAD. Here is a pic.

http://www.martysenneker.com/DSC02184B.JPG

Someone else carries a 625lb BAD, but i can not remember who. And for Slim loc's a J hook is preferred vs the standard S. If you can't find the J hooks, when you bend your cable at the end you will have to do it at a angle vs against the loop or it won't set right. You will see what I am talking about when you start playing with them.

I know it is a lot of cowboy bling bling on a snare, but like I said they are lethal

Thanks John! I’ll give those a try. I have been resistant to trying all that gear
I like the bend in the cable at the bad, I can load the cable a bit that way.

I’m curious if it’s possible to temper large batches of Thompson style locks? Anyone have an idea on that?

Nooksack...
I think tempering those would be the ticket. Do you know anyone that does any forging, has a furnace?

I don’t up here, but I know a blacksmith couple in SE. I’ll ask them about it.

I was thinking about building more wolf snares and this thread has me intrigued by the slim lock and senneker kill spring, I'm looking forward to hearing how they work out. HFT, I've been unable to find the 625 lb. J hook only the S hook. It seems to me the S hook would not work well with the slim lock. If possible could you post pics of your slim lock and kill spring set-up?

Found them, 645, 750 and 1000 lbs BAD's. They are all S hooks, can't find ones higher then 325 for J hooks though.

https://canadiancoyotecompany.com/collections/snare-hardware-snares-cable/products/bad-750sh-100

I will get a pic up later today

Here are a few pic's.

This first one is with a J hook 285lbs BAD. If you look you bend the cable back against the natural curve Then load and the loc lays right.



The next 3 pics are of one with a S hook 525lbs BAD. In order for the loc to lay right I bend the cable to the left or right of the natural curve then load it.







Hope that helps.

They are smooth, and may hold the s hook or j hook Better.
Caught several on that style of lock last year and was impressed with its holding power. Also called a wedge lock.
Some great info in the wilderness archives under "snares, buy or build"
Ron says one Canadian trapper likes to use an oversized camlock to help overcome the lock freeze up.
The senneker springs were too much $ imo, so went with 50# inline kill springs.

Is there a reason not to bend the spring end of the cable? The J hook is not crimped yet, just a photo for reference.

Nooksack, flip your trigger around so it’s facing the other way. Sometimes the trigger will get wedged against the aluminum stop and not allow the spring to fire. Look at HFT’s pic above.

Thanks JP, got it.

It would work, The stinger systems that Vegas Jim gave me were set up that away and worked.
On you photo for reference with the J hook, make sure it is reversed or it will not function as intended. The same goes for S hooks, the crimp is always on the back side of the loc.
And that was a good point by Jurassic, I have not had it happen yet but know of a few others that had the trigger configured that away and it didn't fire because of the stop button/ double ferrule/washer.
Another suggestion, if you are chasing the big boys I'd put a washer on if I was using that type of end stop, looking at the pic if they were to work it there is a possibility of them working the spring over the end stop.
Looking good though and I hope you connect with a few critters!

I’ll switch that around and add washers. Thanks John. I think I may switch to S hooks to get the higher break lbs now that I see how they will hang with the Slim lock. I’m curious to see if the breakaways pop, if the lock is working they should expire quickly, unlike the Thompson that has lost its edge.

I have had my trigger wedge itself over the stop, and I make them all with the trigger the opposite way now so that can't happen. Is there a way to turn around the breakaway or do something different to get the spring on the outside of your loop?