Which year Yamaha Bravo

I was thinking of getting a sled this year to help run my beaver line.

What year should I be looking at and anything to watch out for good or bad ?

Bravos are all pretty much the same. The dealer in Whitehorse has 60 units left, the last of them as they are not making them anymore. With a price tag of over 6k they are to expensive in my book.

I bought one of the 2011 bravos for $3500 out the door here in Fairbanks last spring, not sure what they are going for now. I see a few pop up on craigslist quite often but it seems the resale value is going up since they quit making them.............

How good are Bravo's for running a line ?

They're reliable, easy to start (still pull start, but not a whole lot of resistance with only 250cc), light, and fuel efficient, all good things for a trap line. But they are small, hard to ride, and slow, and require some mods to make them more comfortable and I guess another one to keep snow out of the steering column. I know that I will buy one for my son when he is old enough (if not sooner for my own uses.)

They are great for deep snow and manuvering through trees. Suspension sucks and hard on a guy if you plan on putting on a lot of miles in a day. For short runs here and there not worrying about getting stuck they are great. They can pull a load. Just not fast.
40 pretty much tops unless going downhill. I have used one a lot on my marten line.

I was reconsidering to purchase a bravo for trapping and for my growing boys to start help trapping I owned one before for about two seasons, and at times I sure miss the bugger. The built in rack is amazing and they are light. Just wished that they were still manufacturing them each year. If I knew the companies number I'd give them suggestions about keeping them on their lineup of snowmobiles

Nick I think it is more about EPA and them not qualifying. Have to make machines now that don't pollute so much I think. Still a lot of used ones out there. I picked one up this summer for my daughter for $500. It works fine.

There is a 1991 Bravo for sale near me that I am considering getting for pulling a couple of dogs around for lion hunting in Idaho, think it can handle that job?

Probably

easily. Lots of posting about Bravos lately. You can pick up some good ideas to make them more comfortable and usable. Not faster however.

Thanks guys, faster is not a problem since faster usually means the dogs get beat to heck. I usually don't go much over 15 mph anyways. This one supposedly runs great and is for sale for $400. I figure at that price I won't be out too much anyways to give it a shot. Thanks!

Ok...another quesition.

Which one would you look for a short or long track ?

No question. Long track

I guessed as much but just wanted to back up my guessing. I came across several short tracks for about 450 or so. But no luck on the longs.

Here we go again. My partner just burned up his month old Bravo because the oil pump malfunctioned in the cold !

OOOOOOOOH! Is THIS why you mixed that gas for me to use in my new Bravo Mr. Sunshine?

That's right poopsie

I never relied on oil pump in any of my 2 strokes. My jet drives, my out boards, all my 2's I mix the oil into the gas...leason learned many years ago.

Hey Ken...a month old should be still under warrenty ??? Or at least the pump

He's hoping it is !!

I'm with you. Mix it all

No more mixing for me with the new ACE 4 stroke, however it probably just won't start when it is 30 below

Let us know how that works out Fish! I plan on using my new (to me) machine for some time, but I'm sure it will have to be replaced at some point.

Ken did he have the airvent open in the front? How do you know it was oil? I burned my new one up 5 years ago at 60 miles. To hot for conditions. Then I learned more about the vent. The oiler did go out two years ago however. I mix now. Save it however before it was too late.

Right on Bravo Talk!!! I got mine last year it got 1700 miles so far. I had a short track and two long tracks before. I think the next mod i want to put on it is shorter chair that is raised up some for comfort. I still run with the oiler. Was thinking of cutting some cushion foam to slip in the front when breaking trails/take out when not. Has anybody done that. Last year mine cost $4,500 with shipping. Been on the look out for some UHMW here in the village. Gonna put a skid plate under and up past the bumper 4-5 inches or so with cut out hand holds. U-bolted to the bumper to secure the front.

Yukon I am in the process of doing just that with my seat. Shorter and building a box under it. Foam is good. Lots of it. You have to modify your windshield to go higher but it is worth it. Just rivet on some lexan.
I am about done with my 340 as well. Short seat with a box. Gives me a lot of rack space now.

FT- I got the windshield last year, got tired of crouching while cruising home in the cold weather. Did you get to the heater hose? I like the idea about more space, but i think i am jus going to scavange a different seat so i can switch if i ever have to. Maybe if the kids get it some day. But i did get the Soft case mounted/machette/axe and winshield extension. Next would have to be seat, then make a spot for the ice pick to go. I think i am going to rivet uhmw under the foot rails also, make it stronger and help it slide along in the deep stuff. I was thinking about taking a Hand crank boat winch, dbl-line pulley the cable and adding hooks on the under side so i can hook it to the front or back if i ever have to. Be faster then a come-along. Then skid plate, if i run it farther out it should help with the snow getting in the hood. Also help it float in the soup higher. Well i cut up three big totes of bait size fish chunks, jus have to wire it up. Gonna head out and check out the east line tomorrow if it warms up some.

All I am able to find around here used are the short track in the 85 - 92 years. Any thoughts about those ?

Len, he said it started right up and he let it idle for 15 minutes. Then he laid it over to get the track moving and it revved up and quit. It was 35 below so his thinking is that the oil in the reservoir was too thick to flow through the pump. Why the heck don't they mount that oil rez under the cowling ?

Yukon any more info on the heater hose thing? That would be nice to have warm air blowing up,my skandic has something like that.

Speaking of the heater hose -
When I took a long ride last weekend I noticed that my left boot was getting a lot of warm air. It was dry and warm when my right boot was all iced up.

Is there supposed to be heat exhausted out that side?

Yukon & Family Trapper: Can you post pics of the heater hose mod and any others?

"0n a Call" i had a 1992 short track ran like a champ for a few years, i got it used. But i used it all winter. Ate a piston one morning, buddy rebuilt it by noon. Then i ended up trading it off. But for in town use it was great. Fun. But rather have a longtrack for work and trapping and such.

White, i hate the oil resvoir where it is. I alway have to leave it half full when i get back so i can add oil from behind the woodstove in the morning when i am warming it up. Ol' Blister-yea the heat comes out that side from the clutch and the engine schroud pointing in that direction. Why i never wear mukluks anymore :-(

okie and ontario; i don't have any pictures but i am can explain it. The engine schroud is where the heat comes out. 1- Make sure it is removeable. Cause on warm days your engine has to move hot air faster. I made the one i had not removable and it was a pain to wire on and cut off. I used a rubber forklift tube liner. But prefer something that stays flexible. I used a Shop vac hose and cut a hole through the dash and slipped it through the bottom side first. left the hose Couple feet long. Next i fitted the Rubber liner around the schroud in a funnel style position. Wired it to stay its shape. Then i fitted the shop vac hose to the Rubber liner. Then i used 4 pieces of wire to attach to engine schroud. Was nice and warm behind the windshield Kinda had to duck to warm up the Nose. But worked good for thawing out the gloves/googles and such. If i was to put another i'd use zip ties because they are faster to use attaching assembly. Bad part is it sucks out most of the heat from under the hood, so your oil lines and stuff can't quite warm up so good, but i always add oil from behind the woodstove. Hope that helps.

On all my sleds i have a small electric heater i use under the hood and cover it up with old sleeping bag/somekinda cover. I leave it there sometimes up to an hour. Pre-heats everything. 3.5x4x5 size dimensions find a place to wedge it in and plug it in/close/cover. -50 below works great :-) lol i burned up a few hair dryers over the years lol

Thanks Yukontrapper. Good info. I have a 2011 Bravo LT that I pick up this month. I also have the chance to buy a friends 2006 Tundra LT (300F) that is in mint shape. Any info, good or bad on the Tundra? I thought they would make a great trapping combination???

The Tundra is a great machine, but check and see if the 2006 is the first year they started making the new model (can't remember if it was 06 or 05) the first year they had clutch problems. The rest of the years have a different clutch setup that works great. Unfortunately the new model Tundras also need the heater hose mod, the older model Tundra's blew warm air out the dash in your face, for some reason when they changed the design they did away with that and blow all the warm air out on your left leg. When I asked the idiot at the dealership why they did that he helpfully explained to me that the warm air coming off the motor that used to blow up under the windshield and warm your face and hands on the old models was slightly damp, and this caused you to be colder than riding along at -20 with only the cold wind blowing in your face. Guess he has never rode an older Skandic in cold weather if he can say that with a straight face!

YT, what does a "fork lift tube liner" look like?

How many miles do you need to travel to get your oil reservoir half empty?

This is a good thread. I appreciate all this information I'm getting here ;o)

Just play along with her. OK Guys ?

After I go through both gas tanks ( or 6.5 gal) It takes a quart of oil.

That works out to a ratio of 26 to 1. I thought that machine ran 50:1

Both of mine burn that.

That's interesting The book says 50:1

Ontario- word of knowledge makes things easier for us all. lol. But yea no idea on the 300F Skidoo, wouldn't mind trying one though. Seen some here before but not many pepole bought them. Usually to the end of the lines and back gets me more then enough to get around half. They average 25-35 miles out one way. Blister- The Fork lift liner is what protects the tubes from the rim inside the tire. But when i do put a new one in i want to use some thing that won't freeze. Was thinking that cloth material they use for space heater tubes, make it easier to work with. Well can finally cross the river now, but i have to get back to the J-O-B tomorrow :-( So prolly next weekend i can make it to the west line.

I just got done parting out a bravo long track I picked up for $50 . Was a beater but I got more parts and pieces for the 6 I am trying to maintain or work up to running. ;0) Goo undercarriage. Thought the track was good but ended up having center rip that had been stitched. Good head. I am going to get a motor rebuilt just for when one takes a dive. They change out fast. Be better to have one on hand in the future.
I am going to be working on an old one over the holidays. I will start keeping a good write up of the mods I am making.
Going to play with some things. High seat with a storage area, removable trap box, Look at making some some wide ski skins or maybe even some new skies out of UMHW.
I am also going to be fabricating some kind of heater ducting. That think blows a lot of hot air and a left foot can't get it all. ;0)
Going to switch all my machines over to premix also. There too old to trust.

Family Trapper: Sounds like you are going to build the Trapping Super Bravo! Here are some pics of mods I found on the net that I thought were good ideas.

Here is my sled unpacked,



Here is what I do to the front bumper, I leave the "slidy thingy" for air open all the time, the belt is for lifting and there is one in the rear for the same purpose, on the bottom of the plastic is another piece of belt that reflects most of the snow from getting in your face in deep snow




I open this hole to allow more fresh air and the wire wheel is a must, I can put alot of stuff between windshields but is mostly for wolf snares,



One of the first things I do to a bravo is drill a hole in the tub between the engine and gas tank to allow melted snow to escape for it don't interfear with your steering.

Need photo of hole in tub please

When it gets light out I'll take pic of a couple more "attachments"

Thanks~


Hey I looked at that burned up Bravo yesterday. The cylinder and piston were both pretty well scored but the rings were free and intact. The odd thing is that the underneath side of the top of the piston is burned black. No holes.

Takotna is the hole in the dash just a vent or do you have hose coming up to it for hot air? How far back does the skid plate go?

The hole is under the starter,



Okie, here's my skid plate, I also cut off the tail flap to reduce snow build up and getting stuck and the dash hole is just a vent,




Here is something I'm waiting to get stuck to try,







I found this is a must, rivit/bolt something to reinforce the floor board, make sure it's overlapped in front of the rivet, I got round stock on my spare one but this is all I could find above snow, I someday got to flip it since it builds up with ice.

Takotna: Did you add the 3rd idler wheel?

Did but took it off cause it kept more snow/slush from getting out.

So why is the Bravo such a popular sled with trappers? Is it more of a work/utility sled? Why this sled over other makes and models? Just curious, other than this board I've never heard of the Bravo's. How do they compare with a Skandic? Thanks!!

To me it's just the dependability, and used to be cheapest to buy. it's diffently not for 6 footers or heavy people, AND you need a good back

It's a utility machine at it's finest. faster than walking, very easy to work on, very light to free if stuck, and a long track to keep from getting stuck. It's no cadillac, it isn't made for comfort. Made to work, and it does.

Only sled I think would be better is the Skandic 440LT. Only reason I say that is the power of the engine. It was light weight and probably as horrible to ride as the Bravo, but the bigger engine opened up more areas for it (dominated deep snow).

Awesome, thanks for the answers! I'm 6 foot and heavy!

440 is a cadillac ride compared to the Bravo.
I have to say that one of the coolest things when riding the bravo is how your mind opens up to go new places that you wouldn't think of in a larger machine. The fear of getting stuck is greatly diminished.
6 years ago when they reintroduced them you could buy a brand new in the spring at the end of the year for $2800-$3000. Pretty good way to get into a new utility sled. Lots of parts avilable as they haven't changed them for the last 30years very much. Pretty much interchangeable.
I have decided for my long line when I run it again I am going to carry a spare head, piston, rings and base gasket in my sled to camp. You could change it out in less than a half hour in a pinch on the trail.

Ontariou Thanks for the picts. I really like the cowling rack. I find myself putting my pack on the front generally. This would be cool. Would need some kind of quick disconnect to open up but it would be quite nice to have. And being able to use the light would make it a plus. ;0)

Man, I just see that cowling rack getting hung up on brush and trees.

-TJ

LOL!! Simultaneous typing !

Man I'd have that rack, windshield and cowling all torn off in 30 minutes if I had that rack on there. It has to snag on every bush and tree I would think.

I like the rack. Would have LOVED it on the 440. I'm t hinking it'd be just fine on all machines. Just like the skis: fits inside the outline of the machine, you'll be good.

Maybe in your country but not mine. Heck you'd have to try hard to hit something in your area.

lol white, never hear of trying hard to hit anything but i aswell would tore that off in brush.
FT-great plan, i better get looking for bravo parts i guess. Better to be ready then waiting on the mail for parts.
Takotna-awesome posts on the skid plate and the wire reel placement. I want to try your vent in the dash now i like the option to slide it closed when i have to. I took a square boat floation cushion and tied it down to my chair and it raised the height by 2.5 inches made a bid difference on the back and knees.

Really. I wonder where you got that idea?


I did most of my first year long lining with this one. Your right it makes a big difference. I then moved up to the 6 inch foam bungied under my bravo cover.

Then I put it incorporated it into the seat and by far the best ride yet. Been there done that. No added suspension with the boat cushion. More foam. I'm telling you. You won't regret it. Lots of foam. recovering the seat is a piece of cake. Even if you don't sew it.

Here is a little something I do when I am making a set. A warm drink or some cup of soup is a nice break


Wings I need wings. Thats next.


Really though I bust as much brush as any bravo rider out there. I don't think you would hang up on brush. If it isn't going down in front of you are off to the side of the machine your in trouble with your windshield anyway. I think it would be quite functional. Just have to figure a quick disconnect to open the hood without a lot of hassle. Will find out hopefully.
My hope is to be able to carry my sleeping bag, pad, tarp and some gear on front for a night of camping.

Okay So I am back in Homer in my own shop. Just got done putting the final coat of paint on Garrity's bravo box and have been strategizing on Bravo skis.
Went down and priced a 40 inch by 8 inch piece of umhw for skis. Not ski skins. But skis. Pretty spendy here. Over $20 a square foot.. About $57 a ski. I would be dropping a lot of weight in metal skis. Still incorporate the same leaf spring suspension. Have to custom build an attachment piece but think it might work. I need skis for one I have here so rather than pay $100 on ebay for used ones, and $100 for skins I am going to give it a go at designing a pair. What would a sheet of 1/2 inch umhw cost in Anchorage? Where is the cheapest?

Also looked and there is plenty of cable length to raise the steering wheel 3 inches with a riser of some sort. Not some much leaning over when on your knee or standing up.

Please share pics FT!

Will be putting the seat together in the next few days. Will take photos. as well as when I add more items. As usual I always play nice and share.

Great pics there FT, i like the ideas you put up as well as takotna's. Had to laugh at the bravo in the air, the secret of your tip-up, thats how you clean away the limbs way up there :-)
If any thing i may be able to find the chair i had on the short track i used to have. Short track chair, plus added foam, then new covering. With the shorter seat i can fit more in the back. Mainly my cooler that go's where i go when out in the sticks. Then additional trapping gear. I think i am going to move the oil tank back under the hood, jus have to find a older oil tank. That will free up the old tool storage location "For putting my lures" and plugs/wrench. Speaking of plastic i was looking at a very nice 55 gallon plastic barrel i keep moving around the yard, it is soon to get the Skill-Saw this coming weekend lol. Skid plate and attach it under the foot rails front to back. I think you can get away with some sort of mounted sattle bags on the hood big enough to store things, but small enough not to get hung up on stuff.

Wings I need wings. Thats next.


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I really have to ask...did you aim for those willows? When you could have headed three feet to the right and slipped on through. Only jokin but wow if you would have been going about 30 you would have been air born, Yahooooo.

I am having a tuff time finding a long track ....I am looking and looking but all I find are short tracks.

On a call, You might get along ok with a short track in your area. I would think you get lots of lake effect snow and that usually packs pretty well. Get you an otter sled to pull behind it and your golden. Just a thought.

Hey Gun, Yes I have an otter I have been pulling for the last few years, I am tired of it and well..now you know why I need a machine . Yes to the lake affect and it has been light the last few years and some trails are even dry. But...there are times and places trying to cut a new trail or to go where I want is not easy and can be deep. Like about 3 -4 feet.

Thanks maybe I will pick one up. found an 85 that needs rings for 350.00.

Oh...that and I was going to make a UHMW sled. I can get a 1/4 x 4 x 10 sheet for

Good call on the use of a plastic barrel. I am now on the look out.


I can't honestly remember. Been 4 years. That year conditions were near perfect. Lots of snow by Feb and never snowed another 3 inches till the end of March. You could go anywhere. I did a lot of traveling through the forest setting. A mistake for future use of the sets. But fun. Must have been a reason or just a bad turn but sometimes you just think a little extra speed and things will fall. Well they didn't this time.

A guy can kind of get distracted. This is one of my favorites. I was cruising at the speed of an outboard motor on a heavy boat across the meadow gazing into the distance for set locations and one of the many sink holes that are in the area appeared out of no where.
Surprise. I don't have wolves in this area but always thought it would be a good place to try a water set for wolves as they stay open all winter.

I can see the advantages of a long track...more room to carry, more floatation for crossing sink holes, and most likely more traction.

Yukon I have about 20 barrels laying about...I did not understand your comment regarding what you were doing with it, other than the skid plate.

On a Call, My plan for the Barrel is to make the Skid Plate up passed my bumper, if you look at Ft's picture of his Bravo i'll run mine up past the bumper 6-8 inches to help with floatation and to deflect the snow from filling up the Engine Tub then icing it up. Also i am going to make plastic sliders underneath the foot rails front to back and see if that helps while breaking trails. More or less all the plastic will help it slide better while breaking trails. Also the plastic is thinner then UHMW an i think it'll be easier to work with. Plus if anything its free ya jus have to shape everything to fit. Counter sink the rivets slightly and it should hold out jus fine. Happy thanks giving folks, enjoy.

Yukon, I now understand and good idea. If you have a wood stove you can warm up that plastic by heating it up. I have done it and as long as you do not over heat it can be shaped and mounded.

Thank you and you too have a great day tomarrow !!

Yep, you also. Thanks for the tip on heating the plastic, i'll try it out. I was looking at a old tabogon i got out there was thinking of using that because the plastic is black. 3ft X 8ft. The runners are cracked up. So i may use that instead of a blue drum lol. I think i want to make some kinda of cover for my sled, always filling up with snow. I have a Trail Boggan by Equinox. Was thinking about somekinda canvas snap on cover that will go half way down the sides so it can't blow under the top lip of the sled. Anyone put covers over their trapping sleds?

The first year I ran an otter sled. I cut a heavy blue tarp the size I wanted and sewed in a bungi cord. It worked well. It was always bungied over the top as well.

I made a canvas cover with a bungie cord that runs through the edge it fits over the top of my sled and works pretty well. The only time I have problems is when I did not notice it poped off and had to back track to pick up my stuff. I was pulling it behind my three wheeler ice fishing moving too fast and not thinking, " Kids ".

If I would have used rope it would not have poped off.

The use of bungie cords over the top is a good idea to keep stuff in place. I have thought about using a Pickup truck tool box with ski's under it or maybe a sled. That way it is locked down and nothing is lost. Just a thought. Not sure how much abuse it would take though ??

Ft- I like the tarp idea with bungee stitched along inside of it, but bungees scare the shat outta me lol. Jus don't trust them lol. I use maybe 1-2 the whole winter one for the front of the gun case and the other for the snowshoes. Everything is strapped or tied on. I was thinking about ripping 1" X 3/4" strips of wood and bolting them to the sides of my sled and then putting those little push on snaps. So i can snap on my cover. Maybe i'll make one whole side permanently attacted so i only have to unsnap one side of the sled to access the totes. Seems like every trip i am hauling around snow in my sled, gets heavy after awhile. So i'd better get started on the next project.

Scared of bungies?? Have a bad experience? All bungies are not created equal. A good bungie is near impossible to find. I would be lost without them. They take up slack where rope doesn't. By the way the best bungies are at AIH. The big black ones. Not all rubber but nylon over rubber. They are the heaviest I have found and really work well in the winter. They have wanabees at Lowes and Home depot. Go AIH.

The snaps I think would be a bad idea. Go out in a freeze thaw or a little overflow and you will be toast. They will fill up with ice. I actually like to nest everything in a tarp and tie it down like in my photo. At least for big loads and long rides. The carabiners are the ticket when using rope. But bungies are the best when in and out of the sled a lot.
Well going to have some sweet bravo picts for you guys tomorrow. Too tire right now and have a few more finishing touches to do to my sons bravo. Your going to like it.

I too hate bungies. They are always snagged on something but it's the danger factor that I don't like. I saw a gal nearly have her eye ripped out when she was attaching the other end. A small ratchet strap would be my coice if I couldn't use rope.

Ft- i do use bungee's but very sparingly. There was a guy here who had a glass eye cause he was bungee his back pack on his sled, snapped back and took his eye. I Had one snap back and catch my fur hat. So now i jus don't trust them. The thought of losing my Shooting eye would be about all i can take. Small straps and ropes. Well i may try the snaps, if they freeze i'll use the torch on them. I am going to try bring mine this winter. Like the hot drink and noodles, and the option to make a fire and fast. GOnna be interesting what creation rolls outta your shop!!!

I got one of those spider web looking bungee things at "Fish Creek Sales" in Wasilla. It really works great, if one hook comes loose you don't have to worry because there are plenty more. The have different sizes, and don't cost that much either. I plan to buy more and maybe a big one for my new cross fox.

niteize.com - figure 9 tie downs. Pull once to tighten, lock rope into serrated vee and your done. Use over totes, tarps or whatever. Sold at REI, SBS, etc.

Pipeniner, I saw you mentioned these in my sled post. I looked them up but couldn't find a place that sold them, niteize wasn't showing them as for sale (might have been a glitch). Looks like a great product, thanks for the info.

Those figure 9 look good but I just tend to use my knots.

Does anyone have any idea for extending a short track to carry gear off the back ?

pull a sled instead. The short track undercarriage is a weak one. It won't stand much abuse without cracking up. I had one in 85 and in a couple years I was welding on it. You would be better off with a front rack for some things. Like the tundra on the previous posts.

OGS : They are sold on the site - just click on figure 9 rope tightener and it shows the product, product video demonstration, shopping cart, other online sellers, etc. They show a dozen or so venders. REI has them in Anc.

If your good with knots thats fine, but I like them because they have many uses and knots are a pain with overflow, different weather conditions and types of rope. Nothing magical - just another option.

Well were nearly finished for now.
Here is was earlier in the week.. Going to be a lynx killing machine I hope.



Here are some finished photos of it. Looks better than it did and is more functional for my son who is 6’6”.

Got carried away painting at 1 am. Couldn't stop. I wouldn't make it in an auto body paint shop but Hey the grit and dirt will help the traction on the floor boards. Reminded me of the new paint job you see on the 1930's tractors. They look real nice from a distance. ;0)





First was the seat project.
I made a mistake using 2 by 6. Should have used plywood. Next one. Missing from the photo is a wood strip to keep it snug.






Had some trouble attaching from the bottom. If you drill make sure you align your hold with that of a cleat cog hole in the track so you can see the hole.

Found some thin veneer at the dump. Thought it would keep the material from chafing.


Next step was the handle bar riser. Made from 3 by 2 rectangular Alum tubbing. There was plenty of cable length for it. I believe the handlebars came of a mongoose bicycle. ;0) They are about 2 inches wider than the stock bravo. A little short also. We just bought 5.5 inch bolts and squeezed it together.





Had to grind down the centerpost a bit on the shaft.






Next it was windshield. With the addition of lexan we needed to have the the existing one as vertical as I could get it. I opted to abandon the previous methods to attach the windshield and came up with my own invention. A little wood and some scrap aluminum and were set.









Cut out the windshield and were nearly ready. I like to clamp the windshield and drive it to hold it until adjusted.


Still dreaming. Should be handy.

Looking good FT!

FT...What areas should I check out to if this short track sled has any issues before purchase ? Or should I just forget buying it anyhow. I am kind of a heavy guy 230 and if a short track will not hold up no sense in buying.

Really liked your photos, no matter what I get those give me some ideas !

Morning, FT- thats pretty nice like how ya did the chair and bars. Does it have the oil tank under the hood? And the tool box where its used to be? I want to find an old style bravo and make the secondary tanks bigger and mount the oil tank behind the motor. well see, not much bravs around here. But good job!

On Call at 230 I would not even consider a short track. They are just small. The undercarriage will suffer cracking. A long track would be the smallest I would go and you might find that it is small as well.

It does still have the tool box and oil reservoir in the same spot. I am going to abandon the oil and start premixing. They are too old to trust the pump.

OAC, You don't have to limit yourself to a Bravo. I'm sure there are plenty of machines and most have suspension that will suit your needs. I found this gem on Craigslist for 2300 bucks. I'm sure there are tons of used machines that are barley broke in down there. You might even get the matching jacket and helmet.

OGS I wished I could find a gem like that down here....

I looked at a new Bravo last feb $3999. A freind has had one for years and seems like a nice rig for icefishing and beaver trapping but after I sat on it it seemed way to small for my pitete 280 lb frame. I steped up to a 2011 Bear Cat.
I must say thoe,had I found a good buy on a Bravo in good shape I would have bought it. But when the dealer offered me a 2 year warrentee on the new Bear Cat I took it. Its alot to spend unless you will use it allot and I will.

I am not too sure how much use it will have as I am south of the snow belt and have to drive 3 hours to find snow and beaver. But I do it, only once a week or two. So perhaps 8 days use.

However if I do find a good sled I will be happy. And I do want a light unit as we can have deep snow.

Thanks guys !

Well like they say. Never too young to learn how to pack a bearing. Playing with grease is fun for a 7 year old.



Getting the undercarriage ready for the new bravo project. Gone through all the idler wheel bearings for starters.
Takotna putting that undercarriage part to good use finally.


My son's skis were pretty rusty. So until we get ski skins or make new skis we thought we would wire brush them with a grinding wheel brush and wax.
Delta is shown getting into it. Waxing the bottom of the skis.
The bravo project has been extremely rewarding if for no other reason than to give Garrity lessons on small engine mechanics, Very simple machine but he has taken off or worked with ever part of the machine except taking down a motor. But that is coming.
We have troubleshot electronics, fuel, carbs, clutches etc.


The high seat bravo is so working out great. Really changes the feel of the bravo for the better.

Packing bearings, ugh...I'll do that to my machine next summer, not really looking forward to it. Any tips on how to get the kids involved in this stuff? My first is 2 months old now, need to have the plans laid when the time comes.

Nice machine Onegunsmith. 2300 dollars is a steal for that nice 300f tundra. They go quick these days at $3800 or more. I only paid $3500 new for mine. I have two of the 300f tundras they aren't trouble free but once you figure out the bugs they are a great machine to trap with. Have you used it enough to figure out the weak links? I could give you some pointers if you need. The suspension on these beats the old tundras and bravos by a long shot. I put fox gas shocks on mine and can't believe the difference in ride but they cost a quarter of what the machine sold for.

For you guys talking about ducting heat places on the Bravo's, SCAT hose for aircraft would probably work good. You can get it at Stoddard's or any of the other Aircraft parts places in Anchorage. It comes in different sizes. I should rig up a duct on one of my Tundra's with some to warm up things behind the windshield or thaw out goggles.

Never to early to start. My theory is to involve them in everything you can at an age that they don't know any better than to think it is what we do in this household.
Put him in his little sit chair or whatever and have him with you as much as you can.
When my son was old enough to stand he stood beside me on a chair with his butter knife in hand skinning beaver with me.
When he was 8 he could clean skin a beaver just about as well as I could, a lot slower, but very well.


The same thing goes for a lot of your children's upbringing. Bring them up involved. It is worth it.
The biggest thing is to take the time to involve them. It will take you longer. But the memories are priceless.

So...involve them! Can't wait! Good season to you FT!

FT-Great job with the your lil ones. Cool to see ya getting them involved. Great Job. I like how your bravo Project is coming along. Got all of them involved in one way are another. Here is the bravo how i set it up so far.



I raised the windshield 6 inches, gun case mounted, added all the suspension wheels, mounted the axe on the left side of cowling, machette on upper right side of hood. Added the boat seat cushion, BTW that was great on the legs while sitting/riding but it froze solid as a rock lol. So i have 6inches of foam to add instead.
I want to mount a wire reel and snips next, but i have to find a different spot. I have to gather materials for the ducting up top or make the the slider like takotna. But the big thing to figure out is to get the skid plate made up and installed.
But i want to make my own cover up front that is faster then the factory slider. Otherwise running good so far this winter.

GREAT photos you guys....I sure would like to see my daughters packing bearings, let alone laying on the floor working on a under carriage !

Len you have done a great job with your children. God blesses you .

So...do you have to do any work with three helping you out ?

And...what are you ever going to do when they move out on thier own !

Cool Yukon. I like the gun case addition. You will really like the added 6 inches of foam for sure.
Something else my son did after seeing it on one of the bravos we acquired. He ran bolts through from the underside of the foot rests. Let them protrude out a half inch or so beyond the nut to create some traction. I like it too. The running boards can get slick.
We checked and the seat box is high enough we can get a mb 750 in an still close it. So lynx traps will be no problems.



Probably my biggest accomplishment in life has been the lifestyle I have brought up my kids in. They take for granted the life that most could only dream about.
Although early on it takes a a lot more effort to involve them in things that you could easily do faster yourself and with far less headaches but the satisfaction in it all is priceless.
Where they have all shined, without a doubt has been commercial halibut fishing. I set my boat up to originally to be a one man and a small boy operation. But they have all come up through the ranks of being on deck from a very early age.
This photo captures it well. The kids all started by handing hooks/ganions to an older sibling or me to bait.
Delta here at about age 2. Doing real work on a commercial fishing boat. The people at he local commercial fishing shop used to laugh at me when I was buying crew licenses for all my kids starting at an early age. Little did they know.



What will I do when they are grown? It is a worry for sure. My youngest is 7 so I have a while with her yet. Hopefully have grandkids to help train up when she leaves. I think Alaska is in their blood. Hopefully they wont move far.

Just got done putting skins and skags on mine/boys,man what a world of difference,with a little mod's and some four letter words the fit great,turns out they are not just slap on,and I have one ski bent.
But with the new skags it will turn hard enuf that is all most throws you out of the seat.Now I gotta get a peice of plastic over the whole in front,just gonna duck tape it for now.Cant wait to see how it floats in the really deep stuff.
FT thats great what you do with your kids,all i want to know is how you get a two year old to do something for more than 5 min without getting to distracted?
Great thread lots of info,I like the gun idea yukontrapper

Okie be very cautious about covering that hole for extended times. You will forget it and it will be covered when it shouldn't. I would make it easy on easy off. I would go so far as to cover in the powder and then stop and uncover. Just depends on temp. If your feeling your left foot get overly warm look out.
Just a piece of cardboard worked for me. crush it into place when closing the cowling. stop and tuck away upfront opening the vent back up.

It has not been without its moments.

Three of my kids could stand in the same place baiting or unbaiting hooks for hours on end. One can't do the same job for more than 5 min without a change.
Never a dull moment I tell you.



The only thing that would make it worse is to be without a camera.

I like the idea of the raised seat, next summer project i think. But i think i am going to shorten the seat and put a smaller box under. I was out in the field the other day and i am thinking about putting those small 1/4in ice screws on my track. I got stuck in a deep/steep banked creek and that sucked. I think the ice screw are the ticket for maximum traction. Well helped my dad get his lines all set up, so i am going to get my trail put in this saturday, i see the weather is going to be around +20, hoping not. i am all geared up and ready, i have 5 days off from work 8-13 of Dec. A buddy told me alot of wolf action upriver from where i plan on running my line so getting anxious. I made up 3 dozen wolf snares, jus have to add 9 wire. All the bait and equipment is ready. 50 sets are there have 30 more to add (marten). 12 wolverine conis/2 dzn snares. 24 cat traps. Jus gotta get out there :-)

FT- btw where can a guy buy the ganion cord by the rolls @. Thinking i should get some ordered so i can try it out. What is the breaking strenght of it. i used Paracord before but it sucked to untie...always end up cutting it. Thanks.

Yukon you can order it from the Gearshed or now called Redden Marine.
Order here or for an Alaska Supplier and probably faster delivery call the Homer store.
235-8612
I think it is the 60# you want. I will double check tommorow. I use it for a lot of things. It is great stuff to have around.

http://www.reddenmarine.com/marine-suppl...-1-lb-roll.html

Thanks come pay day i'll check it out, appreciate it.

Again great photos ! I have to agree with you...that without a camera your memories would only be in your head. As those kids grow up they certainly will be sharing them...and you too with thier friends. I liked the bucket one..but that kelp necklace is a winner too, and well...doing the dead man on a jib.....goofy times are ahead by all, everyone wins.

Sure is tuff finding a long track around here. I think you guys up there bought them all up ?

On a Call- i know i can't even find any parts ones here. One guy who traps up river has really cleaned it all up I sure want to find extra motors and such.

Yukon, I can find the short tracks and cheap, but I have no need for them. So, if you need parts let me know.

The nice thing about them is the short and long are very interchangeable on every thing but the undercarriage frame.

Yukon if your ever in a bind for parts let me know. I might be able to lend you something until you can find a replacement. Ebay has a lot bravo parts. I even got a muffler through doing a national search on Craigslist.

Here is something to seriously consider BRAVO owners and others for that matter.
I am as guilty as many on neglecting my drive shaft bearing. The one that resides in in the cupped metal bracket directly below the secondary clutch.
They really are not hard to service on a bravo and well With two failures in my past 35 years of snowmobiling, one on a bravo and one on an indy lite I would have thought I would have learned my lesson.
My son joined the club two nights ago. Fact is usually when they go, it is too late to prevent problems.
Beware and service folks. If you can't remember the last time you greased. Take a half hour and do it. Most machines have a zerk you can grease. Bravos you have to take it apart.
While it is fresh in my memory I will give you some tips.

When it goes out it has a habit of taking the metal cup with it.
Good one on the left. Bad one and what is left of the outside of the bearing on the right. My son said it was squealing. Yikes.
My fault for not servicing last year when we first got it running. Will go through all the bearings now.


Bad new is that one thing leads to another on these old machines.
The fact that the bearing when through a tragic end caused it to seize on the shaft.
What would have been a three bolt plate removal and the nut on the end of the shaft, allowing for easy removal of the bearing, is now a lot bigger job.
Removal of the undercarriage, Well loosening anyways. My son didn't hear that part so proceeded to remove the undercarriage. Results- Took the head off the front undercarriage bolt. Ouch.
Don't you just love those shafts that move on you. You get one side off and what you going to do to get the other end off. We drilled and failed with our attempt to easy out.

I hate those things. We ended up taking the other end off with a torch!

That is where it sits right now. Next take off the chain case so we can remove the drive shaft so we can get a puller on whats left of the bearing. Hmm maybe torch it as well. More lessons for Garrity and the piece of mind that we will know that all parts in between will be serviced prior to trapping. A good time to be finding things.
So a heads up
If you do it now. Rather than later the best way to go about it is to have a 27 mm socket to remove the nut on the end of the drive shaft. pretty hard to do with a wrench unless you take off the secondary clutch. Just saying it might be something you carry.
Cause the good part is that the bearing on the shaft is the same bearing on all the small bogi wheels. So if ever in a pinch you can rob one off a bogi wheel to replace in the field.

Now a tip on bearings. Wow.
Went to the local Yami shop. Figured better put in new rather than regrease an undercarriage bearing. Yami wanted $21 I was like yikes but bought it. He said he didn't thing that reflected the recent price increase. While I was in Napa later that day I thought I would ask. Figured it would be cheaper. $36 Holy crapola.
$3.95 at Denniskirk. Might have to stock up.
https://www.denniskirk.com/parts-unlimited/20x42x12mm-bearing.p1275.prd/1275.sku
There is two sizes. One sized for the smaller bogi and drive shaft and a slightly larger one for the rear idler wheels. This one fits the small bogi.
What a rip off to buy bearing locally.
Now here is the next thing that was an eyeopener.
I asked the guy if it was all packed and ready to go.
Yep he said.
I had heard before they don't pack them with anymore than a nominal amount and you should repack.
Sure enough. I removed the cover and this is what was there. More empty space than grease.
Lesson learned.


Oh ya the girls had fun with rachets in hand taking off the pull cord cover on the old supertrac. Thats another story.

We were going to town later that night and I called my younger one a squirrel. She reminded me she was a grease monkey.



So for what its worth. Grease those bearings now before its too late. Were working out the bugs so Jan 1 we can concentrate on LYNX.

Thanks for all the info FT!

Hey FT... thought all Bravos were single cyclinders ? 250 right ?


BTW...very well written post. You get the card of the day.

On the call the photo of the girls is working on a polaris supertrac. which by the way I was just successful at extracting a busted bolt from the undercarriage.

Yukon they are short on supply here in Homer. They have the two lb roll of 72#. Little over $20. I would call another redden store in Anchorage and get the #60

Wow you have luck using those easy outs ?? I have used a few choice words regarding how well they work. But have had my share of luck too...but it is a 50/50 chance.

1 out of 3 for us in the last three days.
I took a little more caution this time and also bought a new can of Kroll.

FT/On a Call, i appreciate the offer on parts if needed. I'll keep that i mind, but the treasure hunt has began lol.
Great post FT on the upkeep of the bravo bearings. I'd better take a look sometime when i get a chance. I also had very bad luck with easy outs usually a 50/50 chance also...for instance in your picture FT with the Broke bolt i usually jus flatten two side of the threads and crab it with a pipe wrench and i can usually turn them. Flush breaks i jus hate lol...
FT- with the 60# Ganion how many feet to a roll is it?

The photo above says 290 feet per lb for #60

Cool thanks FT. I'll call Redden in Anch. this friday and get some ordered, thinking 3 rolls should be fine for starting out. I plan on getting some of your tip ups set up once i get all the main sets put in. Should be Fun.

Kroll oil I love that stuff...hard to find but it is still around to be had. I was using it over the weekend and my son commented on the odor, not too pleasant.

What is Ganion anyhow ? Looks like rope to me, must be special ??

Back to the easy outs...I will at times apply heat and let it cool after I had drilled the hole. Only head the surroundint area and if I have been able to drill through to the end of the bolt I then can get Kroll inside and leave sit for day or so. That does increase your odds and decrease the chance of frustration after realizing you broke a bolt.

Yukon...if there are exposed areas of the bolt that is my first go to but I tend to use vicegrips.

On a call ganion is used in the commercial fishing industry. It is the ling that runs from a halibut hook to the snap or ground line.
You can see it in use here hanging up on the left hand side and on the table.


You can get the Aero Kroil at the gear shed as well. Lot of rusted nuts around salt water fishing boats.

By the way the nut was busted flush. It is just shown after it was turned out a ways.

I had guessed that bolt had broken flush, other wise most people would have grabed it like I had mention. That and why is it that when a bolt breaks it seems to do so flush ? Just a thought with a question.

Looks like you run circle hooks. When you fish for Halibut do you run trot lines or single lines with a float ? I have always wanted to experienc fishing like that for a week or so.

As for the Aero Kroil I have a source now it just was difficult to find someone that carried it.

Certainly looks like you have a good crew.

Is there any way to start this dang Bravo without the key ?

Yes

Thanks !!

Do tell wont ya? The key in mine just stays on.But would be good to know if it ever happens to get pulled out.

Just remember that the ignition is simply a switch (just needs a key to allow it to be turned on. I can't tell you which wires are which without playing with it, but with the wires hooked up properly I believe you can replace it with a toggle switch (not a bad idea even if you still have the key!). If there is just one wire in & one out it's super easy!

I don't know about the last few years but for the previous 40 years all you have to do with any snowmachine to start it without the key is to simply unplug the pigtail from the back of the ignition switch and it will start. The kill switch should even still work. I suppose I should add this only applies to the simple carburated machines with pull start.

The dealer in Soldotna still has some too. Don't remember the price but I believe it was in the neighborhood of 5K

Just follow the key switch down to the first joint. Unhook and your operating just from the kill switch. First thing I do is to get rid of my snowmobile keys. It is no deterrent .

Thanks Guys. I know the Ski-doos are simple enough to just unplug the switch. Yesterday howver, I needed to move SOMEONE'S bravo and the key had been removed and hidden in anticipation of the coming Zombie invasion. So all the shoveling and plowing had to be done with that thing in way. !!!


My Elans and Tundra have had the key in the switch since 1981 & 1996 when they came out of the airplane but I guess Bravo theft from the yard is a very real possibility ! Right !

I like my key out to give the since of its locked.. But never is.
Had my 340 hot wired last year as I had not been given the key yet. First machine I had stolen. It is the first machine that I haven't been able to get into a good disconnect yet. Easy to bypass but it disables both the kill switch and the key.
Kids took it for a joy ride and returned it. I didn't even know it. They did the same thing the next night and managed to bank it up a bit. Windshield was toast.
Found out who did it and they got to work off replacing parts by brushing and cleaning traps for two nights. ;0)

The Corvette of the bush!!!!

Ah man that drags FT, but glad you got clean gear now! I always left my keys in, never had a problem (knock on wood).

Hey Ken...why did you not just push it outta the way ?

I thought about dragging it with the truck but the snow was too deep for the truck.

Must have been some deep snow...or a small truck .

Where do you live ? I thought you guys lived off the grid ?

I live in McGrath. There is local power and a few miles of road locally.

over 40 inches of snow. Even the 4wd wouldn't hack that

I guess I should have just looked at your signature.

40 inches in one fall, egads man how did you even see that sled ?

How did you get a truck into there ? Barge ?

No not all at once. It's been building up over time.

Flew the truck in.

How in the world do you fly a truck into the bush...and how do you get fuel into the bush ?? Let me guess...fly it in.

Still that is good amount of snow...hope you keep up with it.

Either a DC-6 or a 737 or a C130. We have a 5000' runway here.

Fuel can be either barged or flown

Wow...ok.

Now the next question...how did they build a runway ? That is a long one.

And no wonder you pay sooo much for fuel. How do they run your generators ?

Generators run on diesel

They built the original runway before WW2 in order to service the mines in the area.

I would assume they brought in equipment on a barge to do the work. But they could also have walked a couple dozers cross-country in the winter to get them here.

What sort of mines did they have to service up there, gold I am guessing.

Very interesting history Ken, so do you have a golf course also .

No golf course but yes they are gold mines.

So you have gold in them thar hills huh.

Again I do find the past interesting. So how far back does your family history reach ?

Hey back to the Bravo's. I found another short track with low compression for $ 200.00. Over all condition ok is it worth buying for parts or just shy away from it ?

My family history in Alaska only goes back to 1973

If it was here & in good overall condition other than low compression I'd snag it. Good chance a set of rings would get it going.

why do the new Bravo's use the little fuel tank under the hood, i thought it would be the reserve tank but apperently not. how many miles on a fill up of fuel?

In recent years they sacrificed the storage compartment to install a 2 gallon tank. It is a second tank. Tanks can be isolated with a valve. I like it as I just run one dry and have the two gallons to rely on. I have recorded 16 mpg on a good trail pulling a sled. With 5 gallons of fuel that would give you 80 miles on with both tanks.
On call.
The short track will give you extra gear for a long track except the undercarriage springs and track. I would rather purchase a blown motor long track than a working short track. The tracks seem to be a hard one to come by.
I have two short track undercarriages that I am getting bogies and bearings off right now.
Components that would be nice to have are electrical, CDI, stator. Two things that can go wrong. The extra motor is great to have around. Very easy to change out piston and rings. I am going to start carrying a change in my pack as it could easily be changed out in the field if you needed to. I could have used that twice.

Well for an update and some new info.
Here is the new project. A guy gave this to me free about 5 years ago. An extra motor and some parts and pieces. Been sitting in the grass till now. Time for the resurrection. Internal parts are not really that worn. The cowling is in sad shape and I need to make new attachments for the front. Got that one figured out as we had to build one each for two others. Made them out of some scrap aluminum.





Pulled every thing off, motor, both primary and secondary clutch and chaincase.
What I found was one of the clutch ramp buttons missing. For kicks we took my sons off to and found one missing on his as well. Can't say that I we noticed anything when riding it but it seems to be a pattern. You can take the secondary off with a three bolt center puller. I would suggest doing this as with the puller it is probably a 15 min job to get into the jack shaft bearing. When is the last time you serviced that one. ;0) This one needed some grease.


My puller is no where near this fancy. Inexpensive.


Worth ordering these babies. $14 for a set of three locally. Think I saw them on the web for a about 4 bucks.
We replaced one of mine with one of Garrity's and he got a new set.



Looking in at the exhaust port it looked like the piston might have some grooves. Compression seemed good, didn't verify but decided to take it off and have a look anyway since I have gaskets, pistons, and rings on hand.
4 bolts and off it comes.


About as easy a piston access as you get.

Another thing to look at on your bravos is the rubber button cushion between your motor and the side wall. I have seen a lot of failures on the older machines. I ordered some extras of these. This one is nearly cracked off.


Undercarriage is all serviced and ready to go. Have to travel for 10 days so most everything else will have to wait.
Plan on painting things up and putting on a storage box and a soft cushion ride. Will have it ready to go for the holidays with the kids. Heck we can have our own bravo races with 4 running in Homer. ;0)

anyone put handle bar warmers on a bravo? sure would be nice

Very nice post FT. Great pics, and informative. Freezing rain all evening and last night...thinking bout adding car wipers onto the bravo! Terrbible condiditions this year around these parts...

So when did they add that second fuel tank on the outside? Has the main always been under the cowling ? I'm not wild about that fuel tank being located over a hot muffler.

White I think around the mid nineties. I have a 97 with dual tanks.
Cat someone mentioned that you won't get the heat out of a pair like you will a bigger machine. I had purchased a pair and never put them on after hearing that.
The new old bravo we purchased has them on it and they do get warm enough to make my 12 year old daughter happy.

A few years back the bravo I purchased new, and most problematic so far, lost spark the beginning of the second season using it. This test from the manual helped to diagnose the problem.
One has to wonder if it is a connection, cdi coil or stator.
This test easily diagnosed it. It was the stator. The repair is pretty easy. Takes awhile but requires no special tools to replace but you do need an ohm meter to test. Actually a simple on off light would tell you if you have connectivity. These wires come right out of the motor. It is found behind the flywheel and fan. I had no connectivity let alone a given ohm reading.

Electrical testing narrows the problem but when you are out in the bush what do you guys do then..if alone ?

I have had to walk out before and I really did not enjoy that night as it was a cold one. At least I had packed snow to walk on and only a few mile walk.

Electrical problems are a pain. I have only walked home once and it was an electrical issue. Got the other machine and towed the other one back to the cabin and pulled the engine. It turned out to be a cracked wire under the stator plate.

FT- 4-5 guys who got the newer bravo had the stator wire break off. I know a few of them who got one new took it apart right away and soddered the wire right away. I didn't yet and i am pushing 2K miles. Over all i am happy with it so far.

White, did you make the door on your cabin wide enough to put a machine in it if need be?

I guess a guy could just put a wall tent up and around the machine.

No, unfortunately the cabin was built before I had a machine there. That's why I pulled the engine...so I could take it inside and work on it.

Yep you could do the wall tent thing but it could be cramped with a stove in there too.

there is an updated stator now

Why not just work outside on the wires ?

Too hot out there

I heard they are catching a chinook over near Delta 48 F wow.

No need for sleds in that weather.

Not to let a good thread die.
Back home for the Holidays and trying to get the beater Bravo running.
First we had to get Garrity's up and out of the shop. After he burned up the drive bearing under the speedo we decided it was better just to go through the whole thing now that we are practiced up. One stuck bolt led to another problem and well we ended up taking out the Gear box the secondary clutch and all the bearings.
His plastic spring holders were worn right through and wearing through the pastic holding pin. So we built new ones out of HDPE. We built in three different tension heights as well.
I have run bravos for 5 years now and learned something I did not know about the suspension.
It has three adjustments holes for increasing the tension. DAAA!

This is original plastic on mine that is still good but you can see the top hole for greatest tension.



Here is a shot of the new plastics.


The problem as it turns out when it was on the highest plastic setting is that as we watched the suspension the spring actually went veritcal enough when bottoming out that it looked like it could hit the track clips. So I cut off about 3/4 of an inch of the ends just to be sure. They set out a lot farther than needed.


Put on some break pad replacements and Garrity's bravo is back up and out the door. Well it made it a half block until the secondary clutch came off with a bang on the test ride. ;0) Woops forgot to tighten that!
Okay second try all is good.
Now time for my beater.

The tunnel on mine was getting rust holes through it so I coated the whole thing with marine figerglass "Dynaglass". Should cut down on the rusting.
Not to let a good thread die.
Back home for the Holidays and trying to get the beater Bravo running.
First we had to get Garrity's up and out of the shop. After he burned up the drive bearing under the speedo we decided it was better just to go through the whole thing now that we are practiced up. One stuck bolt led to another problem and well we ended up taking out the Gear box the secondary clutch and all the bearings.
His plastic spring holders were worn right through and wearing through the pastic holding pin. So we built new ones out of HDPE. We built in three different tension heights as well.
I have run bravos for 5 years now and learned something I did not know about the suspension.
It has three adjustments holes for increasing the tension. DAAA!

This is original plastic on mine that is still good but you can see the top hole for greatest tension.



Here is a shot of the new plastics.


The problem as it turns out when it was on the highest plastic setting is that as we watched the suspension the spring actually went veritcal enough when bottoming out that it looked like it could hit the track clips. So I cut off about 3/4 of an inch of the ends just to be sure. They set out a lot farther than needed.


Put on some break pad replacements and Garrity's bravo is back up and out the door. Well it made it a half block until the secondary clutch came off with a bang on the test ride. ;0) Woops forgot to tighten that!
Okay second try all is good.
Now time for my beater.

The tunnel on mine was getting rust holes through it so I coated the whole thing with marine figerglass "Dynaglass". Should cut down on the rusting.

Under carriage is almost complete. Ordered slides two years ago and was glad I had them on hand. Went to put them on and ARGGG. Wrong ones. Can't even remember who I bought them from. Yamaha SMA-8FS92-00-BK
If anyone has this sled I have a deal for you.
Yamaha
Apex Mountain, 2006-2008
RS Vector Mountain SE, 2006-2008

So it is raining here. Oh Joy.

Take a deep breath and count to 10, well maybe 100. :-) Love your can-do attitude and the school'n Garrity is gett'n.

I agree with Decoy Len.

Thanks for all the pics and the info you are sharing. I will be looking for a Bravo for the kid now...

Well done Len, I agree with Decoy also. I think 1/4 inch ice screws will make be a big help with traction. I got stuck in an icy creek with steep banks, took a few tries and a pull on the ski's and pushing it to get out. But the other sleds that came along had ice screws and they jus idle right up the banks. So i want to get that ordered up so i can put them on. As for my lines, there is 4' of snow out there and the widetrack and swt are keeping things open. Pops lines are up and running. But mine is buried. I hope to get out into january to get trying. Luck on the lines Guys.

I have been thinking screws of some kind. Not a lot of tunnel room on a bravo. Anyone ever put them on a bravo? Backin the shop working away since it is raining again. Will keep you updated.

Hello Len and others...question.

Came accross a Yamaha Phazer short track. Any thoughts on those.

Oh No ! Lets hope Alaska Cajun doesn't see that question.

Is it one of the new phasers? I had long track 90s phaser that I loved, good machine. No thoughts on the new phaser, but I'm not a fan of short tracks.

No experience with them. I wouldn't own a short track for myself. The short track bravo looks to be staying as my daughter will be bringing up the rear.

Know several people who have older phazers and love them, and some of them bought shorttracks and longtracked them. Most of those who own them swear by them, and they do get around fairly decent, and will take off slow and not spin the track. But my experience is that everytime I talk to those that own them, or they go with me and ride one, is that they are ALWAYS broke down.

Bearcat2...do you mean Phazers in general or short track to long track breaking down.

Yes this is an older machine 1988 with 4000 miles on it. Engine sounds good and rode it around the yard and it seems to be ok.

One thing I noticed is the tracks do not have much bite to them. It is not wore down just not very deep ribs.

I meant Phazers in general, like I said the people who own them swear by them, but I hate breakdowns and wouldn't own one myself. Wouldn't worry about the track to much myself. My old tundra has the same type or even less aggresive track, never had a problem with it, and the guys who make trail sets with footholds in their snowmachine trails won't own one with an aggressive track, because it will set their traps off when they run over them.

thank you BC.

Okay, I'm going to chime in here. First of all I'm no sled expert or anywhere's close and all the sleds I have bought in the last few years has came from info on THIS SITE. A couple years back I bought a beautiful Tundra II, like almost new after serching a couple years & forever, found out had medical issue so put it on craigslist, gone before I knew what had happened.Sight unseen and didn't care if it even ran [yikes] and when they picked it up I asked them to aleast start it which they finally did. Then after kicking my rear end started looking for another one a year later. Finally found a 2006 Skandic LT that was hardly used and just happened to be the first guy to call on it. He was receiving calls to buy it while I was picking it up. Said he didn't realize how popular the machine was AND he was even offered more then the asking price. Still haven't rode it but my son Kenny has and thinks it's tippy compared to the Bravo I bought for him after I got the Skandic. The Bravo has a long track and he loves that thing.

So the bottom line is they are all a sought after sled for the purpose of chasing cats, trapping and the bravo has a big following of parents wanting a sled for their children.

I am still up in the air on that Phazer...for 500 bucks who can go wrong ?

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/products/modelvideo/513/1034/0/video.aspx

One day I will buy a new snow machine...one day.

One day will come...just do it while you are young

I too am not a favorite of short tracks...but I am having a tuff time locating a solid long track and so I am still thinking about this short track to get me on the trails...if it ever snows I might even get to use it

Nice review AK.

Been riding two two long tracks and the short track this week with the kids. Mine is nearly ready to unveil. Model Bravo FT.
The short track is a huge pain in the but in deep snow and even going up an incline in soft snow is iffy. Just can't compare the two for getting around. Limited to hard trails.

Found a gold mine this week in Soldotna. They have a lot of used Bravo parts as well as a lot of other machines.
If your looking for parts give them a call. Great to deal with.

Verbas Hilltop Machine

1.5 Mi Past Big Johns
Soldotna, AK 99669
907-262-5020

Len, and all the rest of you!, I am saving this thread to be able to refer to it whenever I start to have any problems with my new Bravo. I have already learned that I need to give it some time to warm up - like about 5 minutes when it is about 15 below. I am thinking about the modification that will transfer the heat from my left boot to my hands and face. What a GOOD idea!

It is also my aim to get better at tilting the beast on it's side and getting the track running with no resistance before I try to take off. It takes a couple bounces on the running board at this point to get that baby to roll over ;o) I'm eager to get back home and get back into practicing that.

All this information is great and I really appreciate all the contributions. Thanks for the education!

Ol' Blister, i found that when i get home from riding and i am putting it away for the day i always tend to lift the back over onto a wood block, jus be careful while running the track when you are warming it up/ spinning the track. Seems to work alright vs bouncing around on it to get it to turn over sideways.

I never do anything. Just push the throttle and go unless 30 below. Run synthetic in your gearbox.
I tell you all you bravo riders. After riding Garrity's with the high seat and box and then getting on a stock seat bravo is like a joke. I can't believe the difference. I was worried about being top heavy and tippy. Just the opposite. It is a lot more stable to ride. When your your so low on the seat you have little opportunity or ability to compensate like you can when you are up high. It is an amazing difference in machines. Feels like your riding a lot bigger machine now. A lot more fun.

Len voted...... engineer of the year.

What will he come up with first

No engineer just like to play at making things better. Barb I am going to play with a hose that can distribute the heat to where ever my seven year old needs it. IN her coat or down her snow pants. Girls are tough to keep warm. Hopefully going to get something worked out eventually.

Yes engineer...You might know the old saying "necessity is the mother of invention". And a girl that needs to stay warm sound like a necessity to me .

Interesting idea about ducting working heat !

My buddy sits out in the extreme cold sitting near moose kills to shoot wolves, He bought an iditarod snow suit. To make it warmer he sewed in a bunch of snap closed pockets where he can put handwarmers to help keep himself warm. Kidney, lower and upper back etc. I think he put like 8 spots to add heat. Hose is great for heat while riding, but for added assurance the packs help out. I use them in my bunny boots and mitts when its real cold out there.

Not a bad idea using those warmers....till they run outta fire. But as long as you have supply stay sitting on that stump and rack in another shell

Len and other bravo guys how do you deal with the left running board iceing up? Just deal with it?

frozen okie, i am always stomping on the running boards to break it off. I hate it when my boots are slipping of the footrails.
On a Call, i always keep a dozen or more in my survival pack. For the jus incase moment. When really cold out i usually put two in the boots and two in the mitts ready to roll in 15 minutes...wait and have coffee then i am off.

That is a tough one. My son is carrying a hammer in his glove box. Works pretty good. I want to divert the hot air to the cowling. Getting tired of working on them however and ready to play. Got mine out for the maiden voyage today. Ran good except we have about 2-3 feet of fluff and was snowing sideways. Will get picts posted soon. Looks pretty cool.

Look forward to your pics FT!

X2

Cant wait to see the beast FT...was thinking of cutting bigger holes in running board so maybe it would drain? Then beefing it up with flat bar

What if you lined your boards with UHMD plastic ? Nothing sticks to that stuff.

MMM wonder if ice will?It may make it just as slick as the ice does

I think your bunny boots will be slipping off all the time. I jus got used to stomping it off all the time.

My thought is that it would not be as bad as having built up ice on the runners. The stuff is smooth but not slippery against rubber. Personally I feel it might work out just fine.

Okay sorry to keep you waiting. Spent some quality time with kids over break as well as working on and enjoying the 4 Running bravos.
So you recall the beast that a guy gave me. Actually a tman member. "Milkcrate" He gave it to me when he moved to the lower 48 about 4 years ago. He is back and word has it looking for a Bravo.
;0)
Well it looks a bit better than it did the last time you saw it.
A coat of paint on the out side and plastic and some great mods!

Ready for fun. I spaced out getting after on the motor. But all the Alum surfaces have been wire brushed and the clutches look good. More on mistakes etc later.




The seat box was made by my 7 year old daughter and myself.
She loved spreading the glue.




Went with the 5.5 inch tall box. 1/2 inch plywood this time but shorter. About what Takotna runs.
I wanted max rack room and a lot of options here. I made it for one person but looking back at it might have made it a little longer.




Nice way to get your weight forward. The storage is awesome.


Will be going .5 inch on Garritys at some point also. A lot more storage. And lighter than 2 by 6. Brain fart there.


I personally think the stock foam is too firm. So I chopped 3 inches of the stock off and put in 4 inches of high density foam they sell here at a place for making seat cushions. It is firm but with a nice cush. It is very comfy. Setting high, I will say once again, on a bravo is the way to go. Getting on a stock setup is as I have mentioned before feels is like a bad joke. Unbelievable difference for someone my height.


So the 3 inch riser worked so well on Garrity's I decided to go 4 this time. No cable ajustments or extensions needed. Had to use all-thread to make it work as I couldn't find long enough bolts to work with existing nuts. Had to drill out the bottom nuts to make it work. But it is awesome. I am 5 ft 11 in and can stand upright without bending over. Being able to push the handle bars more vertical allows me to set farther forward also. Allowing me to get by with the shorter seat.


So the next dilemma was the skis. I had a set of rusty metal ones. Contemplated making new skis from HD plastic or skins. I was in Verbas in Soldotna and they have a bin of used skis. I found this set of Skidoo Summit skis and they looked like they could be retrofit. $150

Well after about 4 hours or more of tweaking and cutting etc I came up with something that worked. Initially I was going to make a bracket to utilize the front shocks but chose to just abandon them. Was able to put the second one together in no time.



Aluminum channel in the back, Some chiseling but very doable. Used the two existng wear rod bolts to attach the Alum channel.


The existing hole for the front strap worked perfectly for the front spring attachment/slide. I utilized the existing plastic wear plates with some mods and had to chisel out some of the plastic but it was a great fit. I drilled a new hole for the front strap attachment with just enough to make it. Hope it holds up.



The skis are amazing compared to stock skis. We have ridden them side by side and it is very noticeable. These pict were taken with them mounted as they say. With the wider part of the ski to the inside and flat to the outside. I looked stupid so I reversed them. I think the floatation is better.

SOOOO the rest of the story will have to wait for my trapping journal.
However I will add a few more tips on these old machines. I didn't really think of it. I should have replaced all gas hoses. They are hard and no flex left. They have already begun to plague me. I will be pulling it in and replacing all tubing. Including the vacuum line going to the fuel pump. It just broke off with some pressure exerted on it while working on the carb at 15 below.
OHH the trapping journal starts out with a well Floppity doda! Coming soon to a thread near you.

GREAT THREAD!!! Thanks for all the info FT and others. I run older (mid to early 80's) Yamaha Enticers with long tracks. Will be doing some of these mods for sure.

FT are you going to run without the ski shocks? What did the yellow skies come off of?

I do know I put a set of ski spreads on one of my Enticers and couldn't believe how it improved steering and handling, but looks stupid as you say, my son wont let me do it to his. You may want to try the skis how you had them first after driving it a bit this way and see what you think with the wider stance. You can always swap em back if you take her to town.lol

I loved those enticers for trapping, they always quit making the good trapping machines.

Trapset- No shocks.Skis were off a Skidoo Summit they said. They said they were put on this way for side hilling. I don't need that. Would rather have the wider stance and better floatation. And looks. ;0)

Thanks FT, will hold my breath till the nx installment :-)

I know what you mean Takotna! True with a lot of stuff actually. Outboards, trucks, guns a lot of my favorits are from before I was born.

Thanks FT. Looks like the stance would be wider with the skis the other way but I'm probably missing something. Thanks again for all the great info.
Here is how I widened and raised my front end. Talk about looking stupid.lol (function over form though)

The orange plate is how I raised the rear.

Here is how they look together.

My name is not Bob nor was the guy I bought the sled from named Bob but he used to drink a bit too much Rum and then his head would "bob" so one of his buddy's wrote "Bob" on the front of his sled. With 4 Enticers they need names to keep em straight so we call mine "Bob"lol
Now I need to get to work on a seat like Family Trapper's and I'm ready to go. Oh ya, and snow.

Holy cow how do you reach into the bottom of that box? ;0) I am about to build mine. Looking for design options. Thanks for sharing. I know what you mean about Names. We have 4 now in Homer and about time to name them. ;0)

I'm 6'3 but I still don't put anything I need too often in the bottom.:) I can fit a .22 cricket in it as well as my ice fishing poles and an old "tic tic" bumper jack but its a pain when you need something out from way down there. If I had it to do over I would probably not make it this deep but I'm kinda used to it now. I was always going to put a false bottom where it notches in and just keep survival gear and little used stuff under there but I never got around to it.

Hey Len, did you set up a latch to keep the lid closed ?

On call. I did not set up a latch. I did put a final strip of wood along the long inside edge to keep snow from blowing in and keep the seat on square under a load. The seat is pretty heavy and won't be blowing open.

Trapset the false bottom would be an easy thing to put in. Just some 3/4 stripping along the inside and a piece of plywood with a finger hole to pull it up. That would be cool. Maybe only on one side so you could still put the cricket in.
Have fond memories of my son and his cricket.

Does anyone replace one carbide wearbar at a time. I have always done this to extend the life of having a good carbide. I find it to be plenty good and get twice the life of a good carbide.

FT, Great tip on the carbides. As for the false floor in my box, I could probably just drill the finger hole to one side so it would accommodate the barrel of the Cricket and keep it in place. May be add a few more holes for my rod handles and jack.(I know what you mean about the cricket, kinda embarrassing, but I have to barrow it from my 13yr old daughter)

Anyone carry one of the old style bumper jacks on their machine or sled? They work great for lifting up the track and running all the ice and slush out (or lifting when your in a jam). Then I just keep it jacked up over night. It wont freeze to the ground that way. Also w/ my old stuff I have to step up the idle during warm up to keep them running. If I'm not standing right there when they warm up the idle nearly doubles, with the track off the ground I don't have to worry about burning the belt or worse yet a run away sled:).

TS...why not just have a bottom side entry into your box after adding a false bottom ? That way you can enter the bottom without dumping all your top gear and if you need the full depth you still have it to use. Just a thought.

BTW...does that thing ever fall off ?

FT there is a good article in the new ATA mag that has a idea for getting some heat from engine to where you want it,use's 4" pvc pipe,gonna look into this some

Thought I would post this here as well. I put a snorkel on my intake to vent warm air rather than cold snowy air from the right side. At least when it is cold. 3 inch vaccume hose. Easy to install.

I've always carried a bumper jack under the seat of my WT and do exactly like you said, up on the jack every night and run it on the jack in the morn. Save them $100 belts. I was getting 4000 miles on a belt and changing them for safety. I pick those jacks up every time I see them. They also work great in the overflow by jacking up the rear and shoveling snow under the track and the same in the front and build a bridge to get out of the water and overflow.

Akhowler, My late gramps used to gather them lil jacks jus for that reason. I should make one up to keep on the sled, no more looking for wood block then! But yea i can see it usefull around the sled. Be cool to make some kinda extension to get more lift outta it, or make a 6x6 buttom plate on it to keep it from punching down so much?

YT : What you suggest is in use by many cub pilots. Weld a light weight steel mesh plate on bottom. Then a pipe welded to the jack , with a threaded coupling on top. A second piece of pipe (extension) is then used to screw into the coupling. The extension has a Y welded to the top and is padded to avoid damage to the wing strut. Light weight ( verses one made from a high lift ) and a must have when Airplane Bush trapping by yourself. Hardest part is finding the jack ( E-bay ? ).

As some of you know, a guy down south makes a snowmachine Jack that works well for the lone trapper - but it is spendy.

found a running lt bravo today with lots of spare parts for $400..... after several phone calls and driving half way there I got tired of there games and drove home. what a waste of an afternoon. Not sure what was going on.... maybe sellers remorse???

Had the same experience with high priced bearings here, ordered them off Amazon for $2 something when napa was $24.... buy local they say

thought this one was sweet enough to pose for a picture.

Thats too bad on the bravo Grubstake. Looks like your in the prototype stage there with the seat and windshield but well on your way to a comfy ride. ;0)

Takotna
I don't have the bar that wraps around my bravo in front. Just the short built in fender bar. Not quite the same thing to set up on. We tried a piece of seat cushion material off the front and worked very well for Garrity's machine yesterday. Think I might fashion one with velcro for warm days to tie it back out of the way.

Hey Len how well did that snorkel do on venting in some warm air flow where needed ?

I was thinking....is it possible to have a snorkel vented into your bibs ? Just think of that a heated outfit .

As for a bar/bumper why not just fashion one from pipe ?

Grubstake...I do like that windshild !

I'll be interested to see how the hot air induction works. I tried it one fall on an outboard. Just couldn't keep the thing running due to carb ice. The problem actually got worse because the warmer air held more water vapor that turned to ice in the carb. Your setup might work because I suspect the air will be much warmer. I wonder too whether it will noticeably change engine performance because of the subtle change in air density entering the carb.

did pick up the BRavo LT last night......nowhere near the condition it was described in. but it was cheaper

The green one above isn't mine, I have no idea who's it is. Just ran across it on the lake and had to snap a picture!

Needs some recoil work and lots of TLC. Is there any other Yamaha models that run that same recoil?

Here is one on ebay. Says you can contact for buy it now price and he will ship today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Bravo-250...=item256b65d61d

Haven't got that far yet. So far only snorkeled my carb air to bring in warmer air. Seemed to do well so far. The last run we had no problem. But had things pretty sealed up as well. White I was wondering the same thing about performance. To new to tell.

Call me home late for dinner....I goofed. I thought you were venting the warmer air up towards the operator. Now I understand the purpose as White did explained.

With your low temerature I now understand the reason, sort of super charger. ride on.

Dirt get any ideas here?

Len My wifes Bravo goes through plugs at an alarming rate,, any ideas? Jim

FT, I'm a KISS man so if your asking how I deal with frozen carburetors on the Bravo, I figured out to drink lots of coffee before I go out on the line. That helps with the problem.

10 pages of how to jerry rig and make the "best trapline snogo" able to operate ...lol

I can't understand why everyone is "drunk" on these things..

LOL..its 13 pages but who is counting

Well were drunk when we drive them so we don't feel the pain.

Naw Hup
By far not the best trapline snogo. I would be the first to admit that.

But not everyone has $8-10,000 to spend on a new snowmobile to play with. Or even$2000.
That is what I am doing in Homer. Playing. With 4 kids that all have a snowmobile to play with. For under $2000 total. I am good with that. And what my son has gotten out of the exercise is priceless.

And if we can use them on the a trap line, Well that is icing on the cake. The best choice. For us it is. Short distances. Lots of snow, Man with a bad back! ;0)
Dirt KISS is not good for a bad back.

They aren't for everyone but a lot of people can get started with a snowmobile and make them a lot better than they bought them with some effort. If you don't like reading the Bravo dribble that is fine. It isn't like reading a thriller novel or anything.
But your comments- Well unnecessary. Negatively seems to be what some people are best at adding. How about educate us a little on something for a change instead of continually poking shots at others.
Were all tired of it.
The bravo thread seems to have a following. Feel free to use your time to read something else please.

I would much prefer a brand new Tundra with an Ace motor for myself. But in all reality I would rather have 4 bravos to ride with my kids any day.

Loosen your panties.

I just find it humorous that everyone espouses the awesomeness of a bravo and then spends 1000 and many hours making it work.

FT I don't know if there is a solution to the carburetor freezing. Part of it is the nature of the Kiehen carb with the butterfly valve. If it does freeze, I have found the simplest solution is to urinate on the carb. That is why coffee is the key. Now Hup can make fun of ole dirt peeing on his carburetor. If that offends pour any hot liquid on it.

I am not going to suggest anybody use Bravos to trap with. There are a few on here who use them for very good reasons, that some people will never understand. I am in no way embarrass to say I use them by choice. I am not even going to bother to explain why.

Len- My Hat is off to you. What you do for your children and encouraging them to work on things and to work with what they have in front of them and to improve it. That will go along ways and is priceless. Everyone is always trying to improve something they have.
How is the line going? I am hoping to try hit it hard since weather is alot better, stuck at work more lately though. Alot of wolf action downriver from here. Tons of moose around though so gonna have to use mb's. I have some medical things to take care of later this month so stuff is at a stand still for now. luck with the Cats.

Your panties are always loose if you ride a bravo.
Kind of like the sparkplug cap. Which wear out must faster than the sparkplug due to the rattling.

Different strokes for different folks. But you don't see me bad mouthing other peoples choices. Thats the difference!
You don't know what floats my boat or anyone else for that matter. So why find fault in it.

Those 1000 hours. Worth ever moment.
To troubleshoot and spend such quality time with my children is about as good as it gets! You can't buy time with your children like that.

To see my son rise to the level he has at problem solving in a situation like we have faced lately has come from many hours of doing things that others would feel is waistless time. It is offensive quite honestly to be downgraded for what I feel has been one of the most worthwhile endeavors as father.
The lessons here have been far deeper than running or fixing a Bravo.

There is some panty adjusting that needs to go on alright. But frankly mine fit me just the way I like them.

Sorry YT Posted over the top of you.
Hope to have some cats this weekend. Will see what happens. Weekend warrior until mid Feb. Then it is off to my long line out west.

Len well said. How long do you run your long line ?

Hup it goes without saying that you do add good comments and ideas it is just the negetives that have an adverse affect.



So, what is the most wearable part on the Bravo ?

Alright FT I am wondering if all your modifications to drive in cold weather and fluffy snow is going to ruin that machine for warm weather spring riding. Since you sealed out the snow, you sealed out the outside air flow. There are no vents in the cowling to allow air to flow to the fan. The biggest hole for airflow upfront comes across a hot exhaust. At times in March I have driven mine with the cowling raised about six inches just to be safe.

The same thing goes for the snorkel. In spring riding that air coming off the motor can get down right hot. That air will not be too dense and your machine will be running a lot richer. Should decrease fuel mileage and may cause plugs to foul.

This is something I haven't done yet, but will have ready to go next year.

There have many times in the past where the snow gets so deep and sugary that the only way I can travel is if I can stay on my existing trail. After foot or better snowfall in flat light it can be darn near impossible to see the trail in the open areas. Sometimes I can only travel in the dark to find it, because the headlight makes the trail visible. You start pushing a foot and a half of new snow and it will keep blocking your headlight.

There have been times in the past where I had to remove the light fixture from the cowling; wire it to the top of the windshield and reroute the electrical wiring; then plug the light hole in the cowling with a mitt. I took to carrying a light fixture with me this year in the glove box, but to do this I still have to spend a lot of time rerouting the electrical wires. before next trapping season I am going to fabricate a electrical cable so that all I have to do it plug it into the female connector at the existing light fixture and then connect it to my extra light fixture that I hang at the top of my windshield.

I have you question for you die hard Bravo riders. I've rode one, about 5 miles and I felt like, well, monkey/football.

How far are you guys riding these machines?

I have to have at least 20,000 miles in the saddle probably more. Some days I still may put in 100 miles a day on the trapline through, over, and around crap you would never believe. Most days now would be in the fifty miles range.

If you started riding cushy machines it must makes it seem worse to go backward in comfort. If you started on on Elan it would seem pleasant.

I hate to say this cause I'm fixing to take a beating, but it seems the toughness level in this country is going downhill. The guys before me were really tough. It appears the guys coming after me are less tough than me. I am not even saying I'm tough.

Alright I said it. Let my internut arse whooping begin.

I'm sure I would believe what you are going through, around and over. I have two machines with 12K each on them. Another with 5K and one I sold with 2K on it.

I think 50 miles on one knee would be tolerable. I can't imagine running 100 miles on one.

A tundra would be better for me than a bravo.

The one and only reason I love the bravo sure isn't comfort but dependability, sure would be nice having a bit bigger machine on those 100+ mile checks but don't think they'll be bringing back the Polaris transport pre 1999, the Yamaha enticer or the super jagLT.

Those LT/wt sure look nice and almost purchased one this summer but don't like buying 8/9 or 10k machines without a record of dependability, having 2 WT and a LT burn up here in a small village of 50 in a month isn't a good record, there is a scandic 4 stroke here that's been running good though.

I was afraid my above comment would have offended. I'm pleased it didn't.

If your talking a 277 Tundra II I agree if it is really bumpy where you trap. When things are really bumpy or tougher snow conditions I will take the Tundra. However, mine gets worse overall gas mileage than the Bravos and is far less reliable. I bought it new in 1997 and it was down half that year due to a mechanical issue.

I run a shortline and I cant even really sit comfortably on my Bravo. I'm a 100% kneeling driver. Its the same way I drove my Tundras and Skandic though so I'm used to it. If I was running for long distances between sets on rivers without much operator input (leaning, steering,etc) I would be looking for a machine that was more comfortable to ride while seated. I've actually given thought to removing the seat all together and coming up with a way to stand and drive or a "cradle" type of deal to kneel on/in. My knees do get sore after a day on the machine.

I had the steering freezing issue last trapline run. It was a PITA. I'll be installing the "Takotna Snow Shield" soon. I also think that Dirts idea for being able to install a light up high easily on the trail is a winner.

I dont live or trap to be tough. I try to only be as tough as I need to be to get a job done. All the "tough" things I did when I was younger are coming back on me in middle age. I agree with the thought about the toughness of old timers, but I've come to appreciate the saying "if you are dumb, you better be tough"...(not refering to Dirt there in any way because I appreciate his input to this forum and he is obviously anything but "dumb"..)

The old timers didn't choose to be tough it just was the way it was. I don't use Bravos because I'm tough; its because I don't like to walk. When I'm walking I'm not catching fur. When I'm not catching fur I ain't making money.

I'm only 5'6 so I'm standing almost all the time, I've thought about throwing away the seat also but like to sit down for a few seconds now and thenl. Been going to cut a old windshield to put over the light so snow will go over instead of "lights out" when breaking snow at night, now if it gets to bad at night breaking trail I take the windshield off so I can give the snow a swipe off the light while driving.

If you need anyone to "take off your windshield" let me know, I seem to have developed a knack for it..

Pittu, I doubled my windshield along time ago and don't have that problem anymore, plus with the gap between them is great for putting gloves, wolf snares, snacks, pistol when "positioning" for a shot.

I would probably be ok with a Bravo if I was shorter and lighter, but I'm neither.

Those old Transports were good machines.

I think they had the 488 in them.

Even though alot of our riding is on river's/sloughs, it can get incredibly rough from drifting. Once it gets like this, I will stand and ride. It's easier on my back. In fact, tonight, when we head out, I'll be standing a lot because we've had 2 days of 20 mph winds.

440 but my kid put a 448 in mine and took the suspension/track off my RMK 550, shorter but a more aggressive track and works real nice.

Like I said with the Box riser and handle bar riser it isn't the same machine.
My long line was long for me. 60 miles as the crow flys to the far end from the village. Can't even guess how many miles I put on to get that far up setting marten traps. But it didn't take too long before I knew that I was cutting down the life of my knees if I didn't change things. Set to set not bad. 35 mile ride home sucked. The natural progression has been documented here for the most part. Up to this year it has been improved with a lot of foam in the seat.
But as as good as I have made them in the past years to accommodate the ride with more foam none of it compares to the bravo I am riding now in Homer. The Bravo-Ft It feels like sitting on a full sized machine. Except when you get stuck. Now it is still a bravo and with the limitation of a 250. And old so could break down at a moments notice. But I enjoy riding it now. Sitting with no bent knee and no wind in the face.
I am building boxes and seats for my bravos out west next.
It used to be I would not leave the village without my grain scoop for when I got stuck in my polaris. I have quit carrying it now on the bravo. Just don't need it anymore. Getting stuck is just not a big deal. It is a temp inconvenience. As opposed to an ordeal with my big machines.
The ease of mind that I enter sticky situations in terrain is where the bravo shines. I go places I would not consider with a large machine. But there are places that I can't get due to their limitations. And they are slow. The biggest factor for me to want something different on my long line.

Dirt
The snorkel is very movable. We have already rerouted now that the snow has settled. I maybe even make an outside port to plug into. The vacuum hose can go anywhere.



The material in front is rolled up and a wire wrapped around it for now to keep it out of the way. I think it is a keeper.

I know the wide skins make a huge difference in headlight snow. My son prior to installing his skins had stock skis. I was clean and he constantly stopped to clear. His skins now are wider than mine. One of the single best investments you can make to a stock machine. Wider skins. Garrity's are 8.5 inches wide. Fun Center in Fairbanks.
Trying to find them on line with no luck SnowPak Made in Canada.

Since the 277 tundras were mentioned, I have both an older and a newer model (the one thats headlights look like bug eyes) the newer one has a higher seat and better designed chassis and suspension. You can ride it sitting down more, and it is comfortable to sit on it, but it is still tippy. Today I never sat down all day, was breaking trail in over 3 feet of fresh snow, and it had turned to rain. The older Tundras I used to claim that the only reason they put a seat on them was to take a break on when you stopped, the only time you could ride them sitting down and not tip over was when you were on a plowed road.

Double post but wanted to keep info such as this in the bravo thread too.


Worked on the heat vent on the bravo.

The ribbed vacuum hose fit well and could easily be taken out.



I know what everyone is thinking here. But it is temporary. I wanted to see just how much air can be pushed through the hose at running speed. At idle in the garage it was impressive. I will be cutting it down a little at a time to see the effects. My experience has been you can pretty much feel the temp of the heated air and know if your restricting it too much or it is getting too hot.
The duct tape will be a good trial and then I can think of a permanent solution that can be opened and closed depending on the outside temp.



It routed nicely through the vent box area.
Lots of options here. I like venting it here as opposed to the cowling as you don't have to deal with it when you open it up. If you have to work on the carb etc it pulls right out of place. The ribs are holding it in place only.



Should be able to find a plumbing Elbow or T that will work for some directional changes.


Looks like a dandy place to dry the light gloves. Might even have to build a clothes line. ;0)


A smaller piece of pipe right now will be experimented with venting into my cloths etc for extra warmth. Will get it worked out so the girls will have heat where they need it.

Look like you can neck down that hose and run two smaller lines up to the bars for each side, jus zip tie to the bars, but make sure you can remove the two small ones to throw heat up on the windshield. I noticed the handle bars do not have the cross piece in the middle. Looks like it can bend/break when under pressure. IMO.
I do wish bravos had a bigger Gas tank, but not much room for one on them. Be cool with a 10 gallon tank. I'd better go find one and size it up. Plus have rear seat storage. Was thinking a short track indy lite tank and chair. Should be about the same wide as a bravo.

Yes they can. And even with a crossbar. I'd weld one in. And when it does break in the field here is a repair suggestion:

And if you break a tie rod or connector between the ski post and tie rods that is why GOD made alders.

Dirt- GOD made plenty of good stuff. Nice Cabin ya got there. Nice idea on Gods remedies to fix the oh shat moments.

Dirt...I think it is a great thing that you have ingenuity ! Because it looks like you need it !! I had to say that all in fun. How do you limp it in on a broken ski ?

Len....Glad you chose to vent that heat up and out for the Girls...nice you are trying to keep them comfortable ! Will your son be envious ?

Dirt...how far out is your cabin ?

I am anxious to hear how your long line goes with all those modifications you are making Len. Best of luck !!

I learned how to do all this from Corey Rossi, just kidding. Sorry some times I can't control myself.

Never broke a ski. I have bent them pretty good though. I did have a bolt above the leaf spring that holds the ski on fall out. I ran three separate strands of #9 wire through the holes and twisted the ends together. Got me home.

I have broke the handles off on every machine I trap with at the top of the steering column at least once, some more than once. If you don't have to break trail , a visegrip as a handle bar will get you home. If you have to break trail I have tied trapping wire to my ski tips and steered the machine like a pair reins. That is tough. Especially since you still have to run the throttle with one hand.

It is all easier than walking.

The cabins only thirty miles up river from my house.

Well we all break things...the knowledge of how to get out of trouble is the key to walking or not.

Breaking handle off wow..I have never done that yet but then, I am not breaking too many trails.

I am guessig Corey has had a few busted up machines . The reason I ask about ski's is I have bent them too...sure slows you down but like you said it beats walking.

When you break a ski, you can stand on the opposite floorboard and hang your weight as far of that side as possible to keep the weight off the broken ski. Doesn't work well when the trail isn't well broken though, and steering is really tough, you end up doing a lot of getting of and dragging the machine around corners turning in the direction of the broken ski.

That is exactly what I did with my bent one...I tried to strighten it but it was toast.

And even with the bent one it took me a long time getting back. Having powder did not help.

Waterrat. Sorry I missed your question about the plugs. I have not had a problem with plugs till this year. Both on that one night. I think it had something to do with moisture. Not sure. Do they just foul out and you can reuse them or are they toast? I really don't have any idea however what could be going wrong with them. My bravos have always been good on plugs.
It is funny but this steering wheel never had a cross bar. I have learned to be pretty ginger on them but know I need to get something on it. Would brazing be strong enough? All I have is a stick welder and it might not fair too well with that.

Mornin, if i remember right, my late gramps brazed a cross bar in place. How did the snow flaps work out while breaking trail in warmer temps? I am really thinkin about putting one on the bravo. I still haven't cut up the drum for a skid plate. I was think some of those Canvas Snaps should work fine so its removeable faster.

FT the older Bravos ( I'd say pre '93) didn't have the crossbar. Best luck I have with welding is to weld a solid bar across. It seemed to absorb heat better so I didn't burn too many holes in the thin handlebar tubing like happens when welding the stock tubing on the newer ones. On the picture of the broken handle bar I cut a log spike to length and welded it in.

My cross bar broke off at the welds due to a "bump" in the trail. I was planning to fix it with a piece of aluminum angle iron and a u-bolt at each side. From driving it without a brace the tube is now creased and cracking at the bottom bends so it's not one of those repairs you should put off, lol

Three of my late 80s Enticers have a "T" type handle bar that is much stronger than the "Y" type the earlier Enticers and all the Bravos have. The mounting plate is exactly the same however, so if you took the tac and speedo off the Enticer bars they should be able to be mounted on the Bravo. Not sure if the throttle and brake cables will match up. I'll post a pic of a spare set I have so you can take a look.

I am in the middle of what I have been calling my "FT" mod lol. Anyway here are some pics of the Enticer (Later 80s) steering post.



The post is 10" from top of bar to bottom of mounting tube then the bars flare up a ticky.

ha ha. Mod ON!

I think you guys should work for NASA.

I believe the Bravo would have won the race to the moon if it had a larger fuel tank.

I wonder how many of their employees started out with a Bravo?

Wanted to keep this on the bravo thread as well for those interested. Double post.
Looking to upgrade your old bravo to two tanks?
Secondary Tank setup.
Very spendy.
I think by removing the oil tank which is a good idea anyway on the older machines you could get a two gallone red jug in the glove compartment. Some venting and you would be set for under $15. Could even build a fiberglass wood tank. That is what is in my boat and it was built in 78 and still working. bet you could get 2.5 gallons. With the under the seat storage now I don't use the glove box much and am going to look at building a second tank set up for next year.

Len, What about using your compartment under your seat as a place to put a tank ?


As you mentioned making a fiberglass tank it could be made to use available space ? Just a thought.

Hey FT, do you have room for the Enticer tank in the pic between your seat and rear box? it is 14"x 15" x 11" high and holds 6.6 US gal, that might get you to the moon on a Bravo.


If not you could make a tank using the cap shown here. Looks like you could run the lines through the seat box like on the old Suzuki Nomad 292's. If it worked I would take the stock tank out all together, it would give you more room for working in the engine compartment and lighten up the front end for zipping over the overflows.....(may be zipping is not the right word.lol)

TS..that tank would work in a lot of applications.

I have a Pug that needs one just like it.

Had a rough day, but I have had worse.

Learned some things today:

1. There is a Bermuda Triangle for swallowing up idler wheels located on my trapline.
2. You can drive at least 7 miles without a right rear idler wheel if you have a cat track on it.
3. A Tundra 800 fourstroke is worthless in this country. Good machine if you like walking.
4. A rear idler on an early 90's model Phazer is pretty and fits a Bravo.
5. The rear idler will stay on if you shear the bolt off for at least 25 miles; maybe forever.

Dirt: If looks like it's coming lose again I'm sure you'll figure something out with a hunk of Poplar and some #9 wire.lol

Looking at your track, have you ever taken the track off a Bravo and turned it around to improve traction?

Are you serious? Were you around for my first fight with Hup and Alaskan when I brought this up last year?

Ha ha ha. I remember. For the record.
Straight out of the Bravo manual.

I missed that fight, who won? I have seen this done on a Yamaha XLV (same type of track) and the owner said it made climbing hills, ripping through slush and over all traction much better. I didn't ask him what the down side was. I have heard it is installed as FT shows in order to meet government stopping requirements from full speed to "0" in so many feet. Is there another reason?

It got the axe. Stopping appeared to be a problem. I think the reason that someone in the know said they were wedge shaped was for strength. My theory was the wedge shape compressed the snow during acceleration tending to push the snowmachine up. ( that is what started the fight) Another guy came in after I was a bloody pulp and said that was also the theory he believed behind softer paddles on paddle tracks as bending over they form wedges which on acceleration create a downward force.

Yeah, a lot of guys used to put their tracks on backward in the old days to increase traction out here. I never did.

Another successful extraction by Dr. Dirt DDS.

When removing the oil tank do I just plug lines or is there something else I need to do? What ratio are you guys running? Is 50:1 ok?

There is a barbed hose fitting coming out of the motor below the carb.... What is it?

#1 Plug the line to the oil pump.

#2 plug the barbed hose fitting bottom left side of carb. It feeds oil from pump to intake. You can plug by leaving a short piece of hose attached and bend it over on itself and keep it that way with a zip tie or wire. I usually pull the hose barb out with a pair of pliers and plug the hole with a short wood screw or machine screw. I put a generous amount of thread locking compound on the threads before installing. The screw should not extend through to the inside of the carb.

#3 I mix 50:1 for at least 15 years now.

The hose barb from the crankcase below the carb should have a hose attached that goes to your fuel pump on the firewall below the ignition coil. This hose provides the impulse to run your fuel pump from pressure changes in the crankcase.

Hey Dirt, Well done, do you do something special with the easy out? I almost never get them to work. Is that the 12mm idler bolt?

Thanks!

I don't have a hose on the crank case, I'm digging in to it tomorrow to try get it straightened out.

It's been fifty fifty with an easy out. Last week I worked on a broken Elan adjuster bolt. No extraction. Drilled it centered and straight so I was able to drill the bolt so thin I could take it out in pieces. Like a wire uncoiling. Then I ran a tap through to clean up the threads.

Yes 12mm idler bolt. 12mm head anyway.

No expert, but I try to drill them centered, straight and all the way through. The one above wasn't as straight as it could have been.

I checked it out, all the ports in the fuel pump are used?

What is the deal strapped up to the dash with fuel lines going in to it? Thinking I better download a manual.

Grub it is the venting system. Both the oil and fuel tanks have a vent that lead to this box, which has an open air vent.

Trap I have about 50/50 luck too. But it increases dramatically if you can heat it first before you try to extract. If you can heat it up red hot you have about 99% chance if you have a good grip.

I tend to use heat before I break it...if I break it then I drill it and then apply heat allow to cool and give it try.

Always best to center punch for a good center drilling.

If that fails...I drill and retap.


Oh....a trick I learn back a few years was to use a reverse tap instead of an easy-out FYI !

The players:

1986 Yamaha Bravo Longtrack 136x15X3/4 track
2009 Yamaha Nytro Longtrack 154X16X 21/2 track.

Location: Skwentna, AK
Date 1/25/12

Terrain flat and in the woods.

The winner: you know, why bother saying it.

If you drive a Nytro out here bring snowshoes, a shovel and a friend who drives a Bravo that will break trail in the woods for you and help you get your pig unstuck.

In conclusion Bravo's suck I'll take all you have. Thank You for your time.

The guy I bought this rig had the fuel lines royally screwd up, started from scratch and now it runs like a top.

There is no fan shroud over the head..... Anybody run without it?

I wouldn't.

It really directs the cool air through the fins. A lot better cooling.

I would

How is that for some difinitive answers.
Let us know the outcome. At least you won't have the problem with your left foot being warmer than your right.

Has anyone swapped out the air box with a uni filter? I just put one on my Enticer long track and it sure makes for more room while working under there and draws air from the warmer middle rather than the colder right side. It idles fine but don't know how the top end is. Don't want to blow her up though?????

Dirt, i was @ compeaus in FAI and there is a near brand new Elan there. Asking lots though $2950... Cool but way to much.

Nice to know mine is worth more than I paid for it. Probably the same figuring inflation.

Bought a new pintle hitch for the bravs...finally done with the old flap shackle thing...jus gotta bolt it up when it warms out there....otherwise Brav's lays dormant in this weather. lol.

Good job Yukon, I have to find one of those or make one yet.

Does anyone have a method of making a hitch ?

I never made one before but i bet it can be done. But alot faster to buy one from a snowmachine dealer. i paid $60 for the one i got. After time iunvested building one you can have one bolted on by the time you have it made :-)

I have been following this as it filled page after page, but I am wondering if there was ever a conscensus as to which year of the Bravo is best??

Or did I just mis it?

They are all the same basically. Except at some point. Mid 90's they added an extra tank and a front bumper. Very little difference between any of them other than some cosmetic differences, The new skis were beefed up a bit also.
They made some changes in the wiring harness attachments to the cdi at some point but all this can be changed out to match what you have with bullet connectors.

Thanks FT, the more I read the more I wondered, a LOT of good info in the thread.

Another improvement they made, (what I saw on a new one a few years back) was to mold rubber knobs in the track to back up the clips. This prevents the clips from bending or breaking and probably from scraping the rear of the slides off.

TODAY!!!

changed both broken front suspension springs
bolt tub to tunnel that was held together with alum rivets
put new bearings in 3 idlers and both rear wheels
welded broken ski(again)
new hi-fax
pounded out belly again

Thats just Today!!

But I can get the sucker unstuck and spun around with a lot less commotion than the Polaris!

Best thing about Bravos, Tundras, and Elans. PIVOT STEER! Had to do two today. It was a good day.

Jake, you are right! I was wondering the same thing. This thread should be called, THE yamaha bravo thread. Or why Bravos are better!!

Family Trapper, I'm sure you talked about it but I can't find the thickness of the Lexan you used. Was it .020"? I have the seat box and 3" handle bar riser done, now I need to make the window taller.

Hmm I don't know right now. I threw the film away. It is the one and only one they sell at Spenards her in Alaska.
I called them and they said it was .093 thick. Looks to be a bit less than 3/32

Thanks a lot for calling them, I really appreciate it! I wouldn't have guessed by looking at your pics it was that thick. Our Spenards only has regular plexiglass so I'm looking at lexan on eBay. Thanks again.

I believe it was the 4 by 3 foot piece.

Ft- i do believe your son can have a lil niche here for college funds :-) wrap in card board and priority mail or air freight. Customer covers shipping. Alot of rigged up windsheilds on bravo's out there. I bet you can make a template made of sheet iron and heat the lexan over it to form fit it to the metal. Trim for fitting, package and mail.

If only he was as motivated as I was at his age. ;0)
But I do believe your right. If the Bravo FT catches on people will be clamoring for them. ;0)

Well tonight I needed a flat bar hitch for my bravo out west. SOOO
With my side kick and some scrap flatbar from the gearshed, a pipe nipple and a bolt we had a plan.

Delta's favorite part was pulling the drill down.



We used another hitch for the bolt pattern.



Prior to assembly



My weld inspector.


Had to make it pretty. NOT!


The finished product.

Nice work Ft. Good to see the inspector doing Quality Control.

Cool!

Thanks.
I have come to like the pintle style better but three of the four sleds I have out west take flat bar. So Homer gets the pintles.

I lucked out and was able to weld my steering in place last night. Plugged the holes and covered the plastic with sheets of alum foil. Worked out all right. With he high riser I made the mistake of hanging on when I got bucked off and got dragged for 5 feet. Was going slow on a bad spot. I felt the steering give way in the friction fit. Didn't think anything of it. That was about half way through the line. 200 yards before the parking lot my steering was gone. Yikes. So if you put on a riser be mindfull to let go when you aren't on the machine anymore.

Len have you ever tried that high temperature epoxy for fixing manifolds, exhausts, and other applications. The stuff really works. On my bobcat skidder I had a crack on the exhaust. It gets hot, cherry red when under opperation. The stuff is still holding up.

Just FYI.

Welding is a good thing to teach anyone ! Nice to have knowledge.

Is she your chief inspector ?

Having an oxy/acy torch and welder is just plain fun. Delta kept her distance for sure but she ejoyed the fireworks. My welds won't be passing any inspection but I manage to stick things together. ;0)
High temp epoxy. sound intersting. I have only used jb weld on things.

Well I let my buddy borrow my bravo cause his tundra is laid up.
He called and said it does great but about 1/2 mile from truck it started acting like it was starving for fuel,pulled choke up to half and it took off running great but as soon as he put it back down would act up again.The front of my sled is open lost the cover for it.Since I have never had carb iceing up problems does this sound like that?Any thoughts?It was about 15 degress out.
On a side note he did say that it goes like a champ in the deep stuff,so that makes me feel good about the little devil that could.

Restricted main jet. Running lean. Icing makes mine run rich and get bad fuel mileage.

Len I was told that the high temp epoxy can also be used to repair broken exhaust manifolds.

It works up alot like JB and just like JB it is best to allow it cure even longer than suggested times. I have to admitt I was very leary but it proved itself.

Okie...glad yours did what it should.

Mine ranr rich as well when the carb iced up out west. I would shut off the gas and it would come out of it for a short period run great and die when out of gas. Take the bottom of the carb off and clean it out if it is not ice.

Thanks guys......I knew I could count on the bravo brotherhood

Made my extension cord today. Now with the cord and carrying an extra light fixture my field modification should only take five or ten minutes.

Nice!

Good idea. Dirt how wide a skis are you running?

Do you fellows deal with the TOR or do you delete it??

TOR?

Stock metal skis. Skins would be nice in the open, but make turns on my tight trails in the brush difficult. I opt for tighter turns. I only make the light modification occasionally, when I gotta travel at night to see the trail to be able to go.

I have run both and without a doubt the wide skins are a fantastic improvement. Those stock bravos skis stick and don't float worth a darn. Having watched the progression of things this year with our skis I think wides skins are awesome. I haven't seen any hindrance in the turning. Just that they don't dive on me like stock skis with I am maneuvering around in the trees. The lack of snow that comes over the cowling and up into our faces is very noticeable.

Great modification !

How wide of ski skins are you talking about ?

I don't think it is a ski problem that they plow. They are just front end heavy. You got a gas tank up front and the tub and frame are steel. My tundra is front end lite. Never plows, but can't steer climbing hills or pulling a heavy load. I'd never put skins on the tundra. I agree there would be advantages to putting a pair on the Bravo. You would have to run my ( for strategic purposes ) tight twisty trails through alder jungles to get a feel for whether the skins would be a pain. On the Super Jag I've run it with skins and without and there was a big difference in how well it turned. I run it with skins these days as it is my deep snow machine when the Bravo or Tundra won't cut it.

Got me thinking. I got plenty of extra skis lying around. Maybe I should rig a pair with skins; then I could swap out depending on snow conditions. Later in the trapping season deep snow is more of a problem than turning radius.

Family Trapper - That old bravo is looking good. Fun to see that it is up and going and that you are having a good time with it. Guess I had to log back on the form now that I am back in AK. Take care out west.

Having a ball with it. Good to see you this weekend and catching up. Next time your in town come and have a look see. You won't recognize the old beast. Will keep you updated on our western assault.

Did you ever find ice screws for the bravs. I am on the look out for some. I think it'll make a big difference in climbing banks, frozen overflow, pulling loads etc. I better start calling around seeing what i find.

Finally completed my "FT Mods" to the Enticer LT Trapper I know its not a Bravo but it has a lot of the same parts and the trapper model came stock with a low geared transmission, clutch and carb for better low end performance and this one came w/ reverse. It has the old Yamaha 340 in the engine room. I have: raised rear end 2", front end 1 1/2", raised handle bar 3", seat 5 1/2", widened ski stance around 3" added Lexan windshield extension.


I wanted to keep the passenger handles so I made the seat oped rear to front instead of side to side.

Lid of box holds seat lid open and makes a nice table top. An extra piece w/ notches cut to lock around hinges extends the table and fits in box.

Here it is next to a "stock" Enticer Lt

Chain saw scabbard on rear of box.

Thinking about trying to winter in this old bus I found, do you think I'll be OK?

Uh-oh

Delete it and mix fuel

Hmmm, been wondering if the reverse setup off an enticer could be adaptorized to the bravo.

I know there's the kit, but it's $800.

I cut the wires to the TOR "throttle over ride" (on my Enticers) and JB welded the button thats on the idle screw because it kept sticking and changing my idle by an 1/8" or so.

I know I'll probably get a scolding from White, and/or a burnt motor, but I use the auto oil system in all 4 Enticers and have not had them fail, yet. I did cook a jug and piston once by knocking off an oil line when messing w/ the carb in the field. Mixed gas would have saved her.

Well back to the ice screws, I bought Kold Kutter 1/2" fits standard lugs. 250 screws for $22 or 1000 screws for $62. I bought them on Ebay and the folks i talked to and looked at their tracks they seem to really hold-up. So going to try them out on the Brav's once they get here.

What kind of oil.

If you are premixing oil and gas. Is there any brand of two stroke better than another ? Can I just use out board motor oil ?

I have been doing this and have not had any issues..but maybe I am just lucky ???

Some are differant colors than others what is that all about ?

As long as it says on the jug of outboard oil that its for air cooled as well your ok. I use Merc Quick Silver but there are two kinds, one only says "outboard oil" on it the other says "multi purpose" and has pics of a chain saw and snowmobile as well as an outboard. It also says "suitable for air cooled engines" and "meets major snowmobile manufactures recommendations for air coold snowmobiles" The straight TC-Ws (Two Cycle Water won't say that and are designed to suspend different at the cooler temps of water coold engines.

Another thing to look for is that the oil is for oil injected systems and premix. Some do not recommend one or the other, not sure what the dif is.

Any oil rated TC-W3. Walmart oil is the cheapest( I think), but you can spend way more on oil if you want.

Now as far as color, that there is the critical factor. Personally I am fond of blue, but some guys on here that really catch the fur swear by purple. Usually the guys that don't catch jack use red.

Well I have used blue mostly but have found red in my gas cans once in awhile .

I took apart one of my two strokes. It has been sitting for years and I treated the fuel but it apprear it still gummed up and wher it dried corrosion took place.

Would this be a place for Seafoam ? Or just soak the carb in Chemdip ?

Scrub it out with Gas and a small wire brush. Use an air hose on the small places. Always worked for me. When comes to cleanin parts. Oh yea use Chem-gloves.

Well since FT ain't around to modify Bravos, I'll post a repair job. Bravo's ain't like the good machines. They break. If they get to be 20 or so years old they need repairs occasionally. The one below came with the existing repair except the aluminum plate I added last year. Things were getting a little sloppy by the end of trapping season, so I decided a better repair was needed. Being in the bush, I make do with what I have.





Before




After: Hopefully it will last for 3 or 4 more years.

I think he is busy trapping on his 340 Polaris

Nice work Dirt, like the fix up on that. I've been neglecting my bravo. Been sitting all winter since i got the 440LT.

Just got back last night. But have to say the 340 with the FT mod is treating me pretty well. Love the box seat and higher sitting position. Was killing my knees. As bad as the bravo on my knees. This setup made a big difference.

The bravo box was too wide and had to go in sideways.

yukontrapper, Did you get your ice screws installed yet?

The 440LT has em' and it makes a noticable difference especially on ice/overflow. I think it'll really help the bravo with traction. I noticed a big difference dragging around the trapping sled. They are called Kold Kutter 1/2 inch and they screw into the track lug. I looked it over and haven't had any pull out. Pretty cheap on the Ebay route. 250 screws for $22 and 10 dollars shipping. I went and looked at all the other sleds my dad has and he has em on there. Good reviews so far. I noticed he hasn't had any come out. I jus think it'll suck when your skags wear out. Also thing to note is keep good rear schocks installed because it you bottum out your suspension it'll start wearing out the tunnel.

Great thanks yukontrapper. I have seen people install old hyfax (slides) inside the tunnel so when it bottoms out it stops the track before the studs hit the tunnel. I was mostly worried about them pulling out and buggering up the track, sounds like its not a problem. Is 250 plenty for the LT?

I am unsure, i got it with them already installed. I have 4 accross then 3 on the next row. Tomorrow when i get a chance i can go out and count them out and find out. I'll get back at ya tomorrow evening.

Thanks, I appreciate it. I could have gotten a count by looking at my track but I left the machines up North, I plan on going back mid month.

Well i turned the 440lt over, but the track would not turn...so i counted 100 screws then estimated the top side of the track @ 75 ice screws. So total @ 175 ice screws. One row has 4, the next has three and so on. I did find one not there but there was no damage to the track lug. The Bravo will use way less. I see a package of 250 Ebay for around $25 doolars and shipping. On Amazon, around same price but free shipping.

Thanks again! I just orderd 250 from ebay 16.95 pluss 5.95 shipping. Any chance you could post a pic of the studded track?

Here is how my gramps put in the ice screws and heater Ducting and Axe Holder.










Kinda neat running around on his old sled! Now these ideas work on most sleds. Last time out breaking trail the windshield kept fogging up but the heater ducting thawed it out in 5 minutes or so. Works to thaw out googles and warm up gloves. Maybe a bit to warm for spring bird hunting though. Attaches to the schroud by a zip tie. fast and easy to remove and put back on. Axe holder has 4 rivets holding it on. They used the Dewalt 1/4" rattle screw gun made it fast and easy to install the Ice Screws. Hope it helps ya guys.

Yukon...nice photos !

Nice way to hole an axe and handy.

That is exactly how I studded my tires on my three wheeler 30 years ago and now my atv's. Thank you for that post !

Yep no problem, jus a slow loading computer :-)

Trapset, nice idea with the old plastics slides. This summer i may have to look into installing some. Doe's anyone know if they make a back rest for the 440 LT. i think it'll be good so i can tie down my Emergency pack down right behind me. Or i can find one and modify it to fit.

Thanks for the pics YT. Great info! Not sure on the backrest but if you think like your Grandpa you will most likley come up with something better than stock anyway.:)

Thanks Trapset. I did round up a Polaris Backrest, but going to take some flat stock make replacement bracket.