Snowmachine Thread/archive

OK I'll start the snowmachine thread. I bought a new Tundra today. Only time will tell if it was a wise choice, but I done it. I'll start building the cadillac of trapping boxes tomorrow and figure out where to store everything. There is a little under seat storage and a good spot in the nose of the machine to make a storage box. I'll post more as I figure it out.

what happened clint? piston?

I had my first real ride on the new Tundra yesterday. I went cross country to open up a new line. It was real rough but only had about a foot of snow so it was not a real difficult test. Overall I was pleased. It has too much ski preasure and is already adjusted all the way out, when you get in soft stuff it is a little difficult to steer. It is a bit tippy but not as bad as expected. My only concern is damage because of the aluminum chasis, we'll see. I've started on the modifications, I'll take some pictures when I'm done.

There are many adjustments for the ski pressure, and each effects another one, it is tricky and time consuming to set one up right.
The manual should show how each effects the other and how to adjust for suspension changes.(front rear shock, rear shock, limiter straps, front shocks)

Do any of you use the Skandic Longtrac? I am torn between the SWT and the Longtrac, not real sure which one I want. I have driven a SWT twice and buried it both times and it is just a HOG to get unstuck. But I have never driven the Skandic Longtrac. My line is in alot of wooded rolling hills with deep and steep valleys and basins. It seems like when the wind really blows for a day or two all the snow from the surrounding hills blow into the basin and add an extra 3 to 5 feet of snow. I have even had to rebreak trail on snowshoes on trails already run five or six times.

Recondo,
I have the skandic SUV, 156", 20" wide, 600cc LC. I can ride alongside the superwide in the deepest of snow so far this year,about 3-4 ft at deepest, and the backcountry was burried. But, I can also go up alot steeper than the swt,and it is a blast on the trail with that 600. the 600 vs. the 550F is a HUGE difference. It also gets better mileage than the swt.
the down side is that it is just as heavy if not heavier than the SWT. I did get it stuck once, (rider error) and it was no fun.

Clint, that's an easy fix. You should be up and running in no time.

as far as the suspension, the suv has the SWT licked. There are plenty of adjustments, and on the bumpy trail, it handles superbly, I am also impressed with the amount of grease fittings they have provided..

I like to find things wrong with stuff, but I have a very hard time with this machine, the windshield is to tall, and the snow swirls back around onto my back and the dash, but that is a trade off. Changing belts isn't the easiest task, but I can not say anything else bad about it.

Hupurest, My tundra doesn't have any adjustment in the front suspension or springs and the limiter strap is loose. I'm still building the box for the back, when I get a little weight back there it should help. Thanks for the advice, keep it coming.

you can't adjust the springs on the front shocks??
You could decrease the center shock and that will help too.

Nope, the front springs are not adjustable, if the problem persists after I get some weight in the box I'll try the center spring, I hadn't thought of that. Thanks

SUV & SWT but no one runs a line on a Skandic longtrac? Any reasons?

Ah....I LOVE THE 440 LT!!!!! Can't say enough good things about it. Got 150 miles to a tank, goes anywhere and can be freed easily. Usually if it gets bogged down, you unhook the sled, give it gas, ride it back around and hook up the sled. It just GOES. Now, if you're running anything fast, and/or rough, its NOT the machine you want. I drove it bear hunting last year, ad while I made it out, its VERY tippy and made for a long few weekends. Other than that, I HIGHLY recommend it.

Alaskan-

Honestly, I am leaning more toward the LT than anything else simply for the reasons you cite. I am 45 years old, pretty much run a line all by myself out in the middle of absolutely no-friggen where and just can't see myself leaving my snogo and walking out anymore. (only happened once and man did that BLOW)

It only took that one instance for me to realize there are times when a snogo is TOO STUCK to recover by oneself. And this really sounds stupid but it was an RMK and I was a German U-boat commander in dive mode (incredibly freakish incident in about 6 foot of snow the consistency of confectioner sugar) It was also when I realized you don't go no-where on a snogo without SNOWSHOES especially when your scouting in January 20 miles off the Haul Road.

150 miles on a tank that pretty awesome.

Drove from Nome to White Mountain and back on that tank of gas. Had enough to double back and goof off as well, which gave me 151 when I pulled into my driveway (and it didn't stop then either, but I did fill it up).

I'm going to be taking my Renegade 600 up to my "new" area that I'm going to trap for a few months. I want to bring the Skandic up, but its a 40 mile ride and it tends to be rough going on that 440. It sure is reliable though, and I wish I was bringing it. Still torn on which one. Just like the comfort the 600 has. Definately not going to be making any trails though as I can't risk getting stuck in that heavier machine. IN the 440 I'd go anywhere, no question. EASY to get unstuck. AMAZINGLY easy.

Recondo: I have a warped sense of humor, as many on this forum have observed ( have to tolerate ? ) , so I really found the humor in your adventure. Almost had a similar experience today with some of the Alaskan ranges finest-deep powder on skis. Anyway, sounds like it would have been fun even with all the tools - snowshoes, bumper jack , Shovel rope along , anchor, etc. I know of several trappers up North who loved the 440 long track . But when the SUV came out , people went for the upgrades. I have a friend that just loves his SUV and says it's real good in those deep powder valleys you mentioned, but they can be a pain for sure if stuck. I don't think you can get a better critique than what Alaskan has offered. Like everything else, no one machine does everything so I guess it's what fits your overall needs best.

Pipe if you only knew of this transplants experiences in Alaska as a green horn I would have you doubled over puking in laughter for some of the stupiest stuff you'd ever get one to willfully acknowledge.

I really considered the 440 LT but I spend most of my time on real tight winding trails in the timber so I went with the Tundra.

a trick, or tip....

you drill a small hole in the throttle, like 3/32's, and get one of those little "S" hooks that will fit it, and tie a rope to it. If you are stuck by yourself you can put that hook in the hole, and use the string to pull on the throttle from wherever you are, in front, behind, next to. It makes a huge difference,
is easy and cheap.


CAUTION.... plan it out first, and do not drill through the THUMB WARMER....

Bearbait summed it up with the Tundra, however the 440 is the next in "narrowest". Its also got the "old" design of sealed front, with telescopic skis. Goes over everything. It turns well, in tight places too.

Hupe - I like that idea, but for everyone, also make a note to JUST hold the rope, as when it gets going, you're going to be giving it EVEN more gas as you'll be standing still. Need to be able to let go.

I bring that up, cause I'd attach it around my wrist or something dumb like that and snap off the thumb throttle.

lol...that's something i would do too

just like safety cord on a jet ski...it'll stop the snowmachine so you dont have to chase it very far.

Think I am gonna go with the Skandic LT. Might get the SWT later you know you always need a back up LOL..

you would look like a rogue beaver being drug across the tundra like that.

Are you making fun of my new furry garment?? I think it would look like a bear attacking a snow machine, and likely get myself shot.

LOL, perception is the key to success.

Heck I like it. I have been trying to talk my wife into having a red fox coat made by that guy. She is not interested though.

I know this banter isn't for the snow-go thread, but...

Fish, I hear ya. Been trying to get the Misses interested in a coat, and she isn't. I'm stunned. I'm going to get as much fur crap as I can. Even if it is a full length fox coat....for me. He sure does good work.

Fish, I'll get pics of the sled and the modifications I did to it. I bought the Otter Large, as it was 8" shorter, but 4" wider. Added some Ptex and some supports. We'll see how it works this winter. Figured If I beefed it up a bit, it would be nice, ESPECIALLY for the price. Way cheaper ($100 less than the XL)

Alaskan : Thanks for the info. Those bigger Otter sleds are really wide are they not ?

I have a Scandic 440 LT and love it. Had it for three years, put 6,000 miles on it and have had no problems. It has really nice ski skins on it and it floats well in the powder, and has enough power to get you back on top when you do sink in. It has a simple reliable design and is not insanley heavy. Like somone else on the forum said though, many people do prefer the super wides. I have never driven a super wide.

I helped open up some of the Yukon Quest trail saturday on my new Tundra. I got 13 MPG which was much better than anyone else on the trip. I'm finally figuring out how to ride it but it is still tippy. I've heard people talking about the new Tundra being a good kids sled, I disagree. If I was getting a sled for a kid I'd get one of the freestyles. They are on the same chasis but have a wider ski stance and should be much more stable. I'm in the process of building a couple of new trails and this is where the Tundra's narrow ski stance helps. As I route the trail through the timber I carry a tape measure and put the trail between trees that are barely wide enough for me, that way 99% of the snowmachines out there can't get through.

Anybody know someone who has used the new back country. Some thought this might be a good combination machine, but I have not heard any critiques yet.

I haven't heard anything about the backcountry but would have chosen it over the Tundra except I wanted the narrow stance.

That's a cool idea.

Just FYI, I got 13 mpg on the new Tundra over a 60 mile ride on either packed or slightly soft trail, never breaking trail.

Have you rode the tundra in 2-3 feet of snow yet? You think it's tippy now, just wait. lol

Has anyone tried the four stroke tundra? They say they have more power. I think the tundra could use a little more power for breaking trail. I also think the windshield could be a couple inchs taller. The wind off of it hits me right in the face. I think with a couple more inchs it would go over your head.

Nope, I've only ridden it in a little over a foot of snow. I rode the 4 stroke 800cc Tundra and it definately had much more power but is also 110 lbs heavier. If I wanted that much weight then there lots of other machines to choose from.

Here's a skidplate I made for my Tundra. It is made from 1/4" UHMW. Hopefully it will help me slide over stumps instead of breaking something.

More Compeaus problems!! My old man took his 440 LT in to get some bolt fixed. Would be "done Tuesday". Called, NOT done, had to order the part, "done Friday". Went in, COULDN'T EVEN FIND THE PAPER WORK. Now the part is "on back order, have no clue when it will be done, but Sally will know....when she comes in." Holy crap has that place gone to s**t!!!! Used to be easy to work with, now they are GARBAGE!! I should take a full page add out with all the BS they've said and done. Remember White's problem with them too. Wow....

i need a snow machine, can only afford a junker about 5oo$ my line is from the house for about 5 miles. i can start from home & dont need to haul the machine. i have never owned one & only ridden one once. i am in the mountains but not worried about breakdowns as i will always carry snow shoes. seems as if the tundra is popular but i see lots of other machines for around 500$ . what other machines are good for this work?

Gary, so you're one of Ted's old neighbors!! I've hunted deer around Lincoln a few times. Will you be riding on packed trails or breaking your own trails through deep snow? If you will mainly be on packed trails then a 121" track will do. If you will be off trails you'll want at least a 136" track. Many machines out there can be used for trapping, all will have enough power for you, track size and machine weight is important. Look around, if you find a used machine you're interested in, ask on here about it.

"Look around, if you find a used machine you're interested in, ask on here about it."

I'm hoping this was an invite for others as well.

I've never owned a snowmachine and the last time I was on one it was a single ski machine by skidoo about 40 years ago. Do any of you know anything about an arctic cat 600 powder special. It's a 2stroke with EFI and i think it's oil injected from a separate oil resavoir? One is for sale locally with 1000 miles on it and they want $2900.00. He also has a '98 yamaha vmax sx700 short track but everyone I have talked to says 'longtrac only'. I just don't have the $ for a brand new one thats got the real long track. Thanks for your input. Daryl

Daryl, I have a 1999 600 Powder Special and am thoroughly happy with it. I has great power and I love the EFI. I used it as a trapping machine and except for low mpg it worked great. You get enough snow down there that a wide track may be better. Are you looking for something just to trap with or to play on also?

How much snow and what kind of snow are you dealing with? If we know these things we can help you out much more.

Thanks for your replys. trapping is my intrest not snowmobiling, its just a means to and end ( trapping) there is about 18 in of Hard snow now some of the line is near a road that is traveled only by snowmobiles, much of it will be on logging roads that havent had any traffic . Bearbait ,Ted sure put Lincoln on the map! i have only been here since 7- o5 we moved here from Miles City, Mt. after starving out on irrigated farm. Are there enough roads in Ak that you can get to fire wood ? is it timbered where you are ?

bearbait & fishermann -

We've gotten quite a bit of snow here this year. It will usually rain away in a few days but this season it has stacked up like in the old days.

I feel like i'm missing out on something in the hills with all the people running snowmachines + i don't go uphill on foot as well as I did 20 years ago. The snow is pretty loose but there are lots of packed trails. I doubt if there is enough room in our area for a trapline but who knows.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the snowmachines and to all reading this for their info on trapping - its a great way to end a day reading about your days in the woods (or tundra). Daryl

Gary, most of Alaska is timbered but some areas are so barren the fox can't even find a stick to pee on! I burn about 4 cords a year to heat my garage, wood isn't hard to get around North Pole. Daryl, I visited Juneau a few years ago and and everything is uphill there, that's some steep country.

$2900 for the powder special is high, more around $2000 sounds right. I had that in a 700 carb, and it was a ripper, but the newer models allow for more clearance with the snow..they were low riders..

gary, we have trees for fire wood, but they are junk,.Spruce and birch, it is horrible wood, but all that we have. No hardwood anywheres, back home we wouldn't even think of cutting one of these down to burn, but we got no cherry, maple or oak here.

and yamaha vmax, it is an ancient ttechnology, triple.. I wouldn't take it if you paid me too.

Thanks Alaskans.

Here's a few things I added to my new Tundra. I do not have a speedometer so I took out the piece of plastic that covered the hole and put a bottle holder in it's place. The fabric inside the hole is perforated to recieve heat from the engine and keep drink from freezing and there is a drawstring to close in your beverage of choice. I bought the 2 bags from Sportsman Warehouse, they came attached to each other, the botle holder also came with them. The forward one came with velcro on it and a piece of velcro tape and was perfect to stick on the dash, the velcro holds it well. I used zip ties to hold the rear bag in the center of the handlebars, under the mountain strap. Both bags are insulated. The machine didn't come with the mountain strap and I didn't care until I rode it and realized how many times I reached for it and it wasn't there so I added it.

Bearbait where did you get the 1/4 inch UHMW? I just got a new Tundra and would like to put a skid plate on it. Also what did you attach it with? Thanks for the great pics. Really like your trapping box.

I got it from a machine shop in Fairbanks. Lots of places carry it up here but it'll probably be harder to find there. You might look in the phone book under industrial supply or plastic. When I attached the skid plate I had a jack lifting the front end so the suspension was extended and the plate wouldn't prevent the full extension of the suspension. I attached it with 6 or 8 bolts in the front through the plastic nose of the machine. The back is attached using existing bolts that hold a bracket for the suspension, the existing bolts are long enough, look under there and you'll see what I'm talking about. My latest addition is a hot pot for midday hot lunch. It doesn't work well along my trapline because I'm poking along too slow to build much heat. I'll get some thin sheetmetal and build a shroud and that should solve the problem. I'll take some better pictures this weekend.

TrapperTy,

Any dog mushers in your area? If you know of any, ask where they get their runner and toboggan plastic.

UHMW is commonly used for the beds on the toboggan type sleds used in middle- and long-distance racing. It sometimes is used for runner plastic, but is not quite soft enough for most of that type of application.

Machine shops and glass replacement shops sometimes carry it.

Pete

Here are a couple more pictures of the skidplate, it is 16" wide and 24" long.

if anyone has a widetrack, superwide with the 550 fan, or the suv 600 carb, there is an update kit for the carbs from ski doo that will make the mileage upwards of 13 mpg. I believe it is a new slide for the carb that does it. not sure on the cost, but a aquatance got it done and gets over 13mpg on his super wide instead of 7mpg.

Thanks for info guys and pics Bearbait. I checked online for UHMW and found a place (online metals) to order it from. The Tundra is awesome! We went out last weekend and tried it out in 2 feet of fresh powder. It was almost impossible to get stuck and the most manuveable machine I've ever ridden. It's a little weak on climbing hills without a trail to follow but makes up for that in the way it handles. The RMK was stuck about every half hour. Anybody else have coments on the new Tundra?

I can't comment on the new tundra, but I HAVE to mention the modifications I've made to my Skandic 440. I've managed to decrease wind drag CONSIDERABLY from the windshield, placing it directly onto the rider. Here is what I did:

Driving about 35mph behind a friend. He dropped something from the sled he was pulling. I tapped on the breaks (maybe slammed). Apparently its a no-no to use the breaks on ice. Turned sideways, hit good snow, rolled, pitched me (landed on my chew can) and rolled the machine a few times. Whal-A: no windshield.

I recommend everyone do this so I don't feel so stupid.

Ty, I think the skidplate will help the front end to float in deep powder, but I haven't had it in enough snow to find out. The new Tundras haven't been real well accepted up here, there was alot of displeasure when the old style was discontinued. I agree on the handling, you just turn the handle bars and it turns.

Alaskan, now you need to lower the handlebars so you can laydown and ride it, like those mortocycle racers. You should be able to get at least 5mph better plus better mileage.

they look better with the zip tie stitching anyways. Now it has attitude, and people won't ride so close to you anymore.

Oh No, there are NO zip ties. That would require some windshield left. I was happy that the windshield slowed the snowmachine down, as I was still sliding in its path. The real destruction was to my chew can and my right butt cheek. OW!!!

I've been told (by myself) that the windshield-less edition is worth more. So I'm not sure if I'll replace it. Plus, I'm sure its not cheap to get a new one, and I haven't done enough stretching to go visit my local dealer. Just not ready to grab my ankles just yet.

Been there done that Alaskan.

ALaskan been there done that ended up with a busted tail bone glare ice sucks especially when it leads to open water

On my new machine I studded the track, as last year on one ride I noticed my sled was passing me....then my tail end went....

In a windy coastal town such as Nome, I just wish I HAD my windshield. Sure looks like a bush machine now though.

I bought a 1989 Tundra for $100. The engine runs good but the body is in pretty rough shape. Was this a dependable model/year? Do you think it would be worth fixing up to use as a trapping sled or would a newer machine be better. Does this model/year have any inherant problems? Are these machines still being used where you trap. Thank You for your reply.

Very good machine. Old, so normal wear and tear is probably something to look at. If you bought it for $100, and runs good, its a good deal. Way better than purchasing a brand new one, and the prices they are today.

I'm going to jump in here too looking for advice. I'm looking to get a machine and know next to nothing about them so excuse any ignorant questions. It will be used foremost for trapping and secondarily for putting around. I'm not into jumping and climbing like some of these guys around here with 1000s, but that could change I guess. The main reason I need it is when the snow makes the roads impassible I need to drag my 12 foot lund about six miles to the launch spot. Is this feasible? I asked other guys to drag me and they said their machines would just burn belts? I guess my question would be, what criteria am I looking for? If pulling power isn't directly related to overall horse power how are these things geared? Does it(pulling ability) have to do with track length, width, and tread? I'm looking for a workhorse, not a speedster.
A guy here is selling a 2004 600 RMK, but I've been told this isn't enough juice for what I want. Any and all input would be much appreciated as well as machines I might want to check out. We deal with alot of wet snow here. Also if dragging just the skiff isn't a good idea, are there some sleds with ski's that might work better?

if you are talking packed snow a 340 can tow a 12 foot lund. the things dont weight more then a couple hundred pounds empty add the weight of outboard and gear and doubt you would have over 400 pounds most days correct? a fan cooled machine would be the way to go in my mind something in the 550 class but talk to some of the guys on here with the skidoo 440 skandik LT they may say it can do the job. I would do it with my 550 skandik sport as long as it isnt wet deep sticky snow. It would be easier and better for the lund if you had a sled of some type to load it on a simple wide tobaggan made out of lumber would work with a good metal tow hitch. One year we had a real warm winter and in January three of us took off with a snowmachine and a skiff the snowmachine was a 440 panther probably about a 1980 model the skiff was an 18 foot lund with all our gear traps and a 50 HP Merc on it now we was towing on snow covered river ice and did it for 5-7 miles or more at a time when we hit big open streches of water we loaded the snowmachine in the skiff and kickered up till we hit ice again and unloaded the snogo and kept going did this 3 or 4 times till we got about 40 miles up the Nushagak into the Mulchatna river a ways. We set up a camp and put the skiff away and got the other snowmachine dug out from where we had stashed it in the fall. We trapped up there about three weeks and snow machined all the way home went back up and towed the skiff down right befor break up that was a trip I will never forget

AWESOME story otterman.

SE towing a boat is no problem, especially if you have a sled. Guys here use their machines to tow their 18-20ft 40 miles across the island on sleds. THese are not lunds but are heavy duty aluminum boats. THey tow them down in the morning on the hard snow in the spring. They leave them down there until the snow starts going away, then they wait for a cold morning and go down and pick them up and haul them back. No problems with it at all. With my old 380 I hauled wood back from the Yukon to near Bethel with no problems at all and that wood weighed ALOT more than a 12ft skiff would weigh.

hundred buck is a fine deal. if memory serves me right the older one had a problem with the track coming off. happened to me once and mine is a 97 I think. at some point since then they have a kit to put on them that is supposed to keep the track on and for the most part it works.

not saying you need the kit, but I am saying that you need to have the tools to with you to loosen a couple bolts and slide the track back on. It is not hard, I did it.

God Bless America
Trapper

we towed out a 20 ft jet boat this weekend with 1 skandic WT 550.
We towed in a truck with 2. you will be better off with a widetrack, and a 550 would be fine. Also, if you can make skiis for the trailer it is that much easier.
As far as belt slipping, it is how you tow it, a slow ride is better than a fast walk.

i thinking of buy a ski doo mxz 700cc any thoughs about this machine

I have the 600 SDI, LOVE IT!!! Not much for a trapper's sled, but fun to ride, and hauls my sled with gear easy enough. 700 is big for me, but I'm not afraid to admit I'm a sissy on snow machines.

Mine's a 96 and I love it. The track will come off if you don't adjust it tight enough and get on a side hill.

If I were you I'd look for a better body and just keep running the 89 till it quits. Then rebuild the engine. Good machines

160user loves his tundra if he could he would have a garage full of them. LOL

I've looked into a few machines and have a few more ignorant questions. I suppose I could ask a dealer, but I figure the guys that are using them for the same application I would be day in and day out would be a good place to start. I'm looking at the Skandic models of SWT,SUV,WT,and Tundras since that seems to be popular models. Where does the weight of a machine come into consideration? Just the stuck part? Fuel economy? Workability? Looking for a crash course here. I borrowed some ancient Yamaha's the other day for my trap retreival operation. A 400 LT and a 340. I pulled the little skiff with the bigger machine. It went ok on the way out, little on the weak side, but did fine with a light load and dry, cold conditions. On the way home with an additional 100lbs of traps(no wolves, bellies are too full of deer and moose to bother with my scraps) and slightly wetter snow had a bit of a time with any inclines and starting. We would push with the little machine. Overall it was a learning experience and sealed the deal, I'm buying my own machine and maybe one for the old lady. I could see where with the right sled one guy could easily do this leg of the line and then some. I had a blast. The key is to buy the right machine the first time, so I'm trying to do the leg work here. What are the drawbacks to a wide track, if any? Is the difference in body design between the Tundra and the others for manuverability? Snow conditions? I most likely will be pulling some weight with it and just doing some general dinking around on the off days. Maybe hauling around the wife since apparantly she doesn't want her own. And how much power is too much? I know guys that talk up their huge 4 wheelers and I can do all I want with my 350 Rancher4x4. Plenty of power for plowing and it can move when I want to.

bearbait and Rick Phillips- How is that Tundra working out for you? I know when you buy something like that it is tough to admit weak spots, but I would appreciate it if you could tell me things to consider? What applications and conditions are you riding? They don't give those things away as you know. Usually when I get into something I have to buy a few, try em out, and then figure out what I want ie rifles, bows, skiffs, 4 wheelers, outboards. Trying to avoid that this time.
Thanks guys.

SEWaterboy, I don't think Huperest has a Tundra. Myself and Rick Phillips have new Tundras this year. I am completely satisfied with mine, it fits my needs, so far. I haven't had it in deep snow, even up in the White mountains there hasn't been over knee high snow. I pulled a small sled full of fuel on a long trip and couldn't tell it was behind me but the load only weighed around 250# so wasn't much of a test. It is extremely light and manueverable. The biggest problem I have with it is that my feet can't go forward enough to be comfortable. I'm 5' 9" so it isn't a real problem for me but someone much taller might find it real uncomfortable on long rides.

I'm sorry bearbait. I got mixed up there. I'll read a thread and then want to respond to two or more guys and I forget what one said or mix em up. Forum FEVER! Sorry, after you posted all those dandy pics too.
You know I had that problem with leg room the other day on the Yamaha. I'm not real big (6'1") but my knees were just killing me even after that short ride. I thought maybe I was just riding wrong, that was only the third time I've ridden in my life so I like to "be up" so I can see. I'm not used to being so low to the ground. It kind of looked like the Tundra was a taller machine? I would be cruising in pretty deep stuff a lot of times and also in the trees alot so I don't know what the best machine for the job would be.
I'll change the other post.

You are right, the Tundra seat is higher which is nice because I can see tracks on the trail without kneeling. The problem is that the pockets where your feet go when sitting are too shallow and can't be extended. The Tundra is tippy, I wouldn't recomend the 300 Tundra unless you are going to use it on tight timber trails like I do. There are a couple other Skidoo models on the same light chasis with wider ski stance which may be better all around machines. I saw that there is a new Tundra for 2008, the Tundra LT, it has a 500CC engine 156" track and weighs 499#, with a 39" ski stance. It seems to have replaced the old 440lt.

Bearbait
I finally put my skid plate on my Tundra. I found a plastic supply company about 70 miles away to order the plastic from. I made it about 3 feet long to give more protection. I have some pics but I don't know how to post them. Hope I get to ride it again this year. The weather has been to hot.

Gary: If I were you I'd look for an old Elan or a mid 90's Tundra. Both should be cheap if you can find them and some of the basic parts interchange. The are simple and reliable.

Compeaus: What can I say ? I'm not surprised that you're having problems Matt. I heard there is a much better dealer in delta Junction I think. Pete may have info on that.


You folks with the new Tundras: Watch that rubber connection from carb to block. Don't know if they changed them from last year's model but every one here burned up because that rubber developed a small hole in the underside. Hot Grips failed immediately too. I hope they fixed that.

A guy here almost burned his tundra up again with the rubber getting a hole in it.

Thanks ken, I'll check it and ask Compeaus about it next time I'm in town.

Takotna, was it one of the new models?

They are phasing out the 440 LTs???? This is one of the greatest machines every built. However, they can take a step up if they PUT A SUSPENSION on one of them. I'll sell mine in a heartbeat if they do. Gets 20 mpg (hauling a Otter L sled full), goes anywhere, never gets stuck, and takes a beating. But there is NO suspension....your spine is the suspension, so if they updated that.....WOW, the worlds best machine!

The new LT is built on the same chasis as the Tundra and freestyles. It might be a good machine. I think the 440lt is officially dead, it is no longer listed on Skidoo's website. An interesting note is that it is called a Tundra LT 550F and the specs say the engine is a 500F and the actual displacement is 436cc. They are pretty free with their numbers.

hahaha, I love that. I can see a 599cc being a 600, but when they start calling them 550s give or take 100. hahaha I sure love the LT, but it kills me to ride it sometimes. I have noticed that sans windshield SUCKS even more. I figured I didn't go fast enough to make it matter.....i was wrong.

Just heard on the street here a guy just blew up his brand new Tundra. Hadn't figured out what went on yet, just burned up. I'll find out more.

Yup bearbait, one of the new spaceships, he burned it up last year because of the rubber and they rebuilt it, same thing again this year but he caught it.

Trooper here in St. Marys bought a new tundra this year.
I think he has less than 200 mile on it and the carb boot between the carb and cyl gave out. A hole in the bottom of it the size of a nickel. Crazy. I thought they fixed that. He did not blow a pistion but the fuel ratio was bad enought it quit running. We think.
Alaska Mining and diving wanted the whole machine to warrenty. He was not happy. I think he is just buying the boot on his own.

Discuss the so called Tundra they came out that looks like a snocross machine... Just from looks i would say it doesnt work in a wilderness or offroad trapline.

RdFx

The Jack Pine Savage mentioned Jim Rognerud has been putting a new Tundra to the test on his Under Ice Beaver line. I hear good reports even though the thing looks kinda frail it has been taking a beating fairly well.

Jim takes his Beaver trapping kinda serious ! I doubt he would put up with the sled if it did not perform well in the woods.

Martentrapper responding to otterman about the 550 RMK

Otterman.........I sold the 05 RMK to the trapping pard. He needed a better machine real bad. It was decent on gas but finicky with temp changes. You had to adjust the carb needle depth if the temp changed more than 30 degrees. It was a good machine tho and served me well. I think the 550 engine is a very good compromise engine for our conditions and terrain.
I already had an 02 RMK and bought an 03 RMk with the money I got from the sale of the 05. They are just slightly better on gas, but supposedly more prone to burning pistons. I suspect that proper adjustment of the carb needle will prevent piston problems. I am quite happy with the 02 and 03 machines, but occaisionally miss the electric reverse the 05 had. The 07 RMKs are a whole new machine supposedly.
The RMks have a slightly narrower ski stance, which makes them better for sidehilling and for going thru brush, at least I think so.

Posted by Martentrapper
Otterman, I'll make ya a deal! Deal or No Deal? Haha.
You post a pic of your ABS gun mount and I'll post a pic of my tricked out RMK.
mt
response otterman
MT DEAL!! However too bad we both cant collect a few 100K while we are at it





I dont have the picture showing how I use the piece cut out for the scope as big washer material under the hood where it bolts up, keeps the things from tearing thru. Also dont glue the carpet in as then you can yank it out and dry it up if it gets wet and turns to ice. If it ever warms up I will most likley take a pice out of the bottom for the trigger guard too but it isnt all that necessary just gets the gun a little further in. Put a pice of string or leather shoe lace on the bungee end holding the gun in by the trigger guard, pull the string and the bugee unhooks and you are ready to draw, cycle action and fire. You can cap the end although a red salmon net cork cut across the center line fits perfect just plug the line hole with another piece of cork I am sure I dont have to tell you avoid covering vent holes. is a really simple thing and makes acess to a gun very fast. I am not sure how it would hold up banging a tree at -30 so it may bust on your colder temps but I have rolled my machine below 0 and it is still intact so is the gun

response martentrapper Here we go Todd. This is the 02 RMK I'm currently using. There are slight differences in the newer models, but what I've done to this can be done to newer mods.
I use a cordura gun scabbard for carrying the gun. Seems to work well, but i think regular carrying of a gun on a snogo will knock the scope zero off. I usually have 2 scabbards on the cowl, generally carrying a rifle and a shotgun. I haven't had any problem with overheating due to vent blockage by the scabbard.
I add a standard polaris rack, but make sure it sits back enough to give you space between the rack and the seat. You end up with 2 spaces to carry stuff in. You do have to be careful with not carrying too much weight in the rack. They say it can buckle the tunnel.
Here's the first pic:


I also add the tallest windshield available for the model, and then add to that. I like having a place to hunker behind if the wind gets bad. I don't wear a helmet. On the dash, ahead of the handle bars, you can see a RAM mount base for my GPS. Also add a cig plug in for GPS power. Mine is mounted next to the key on this model. Be sure and buy the cig plug kit from the Polaris dealer. It has all the right stuff to make it work.
Here's a second pic:


The last thing I do is put track screws into the lugs. The 1.25 lug is too big for studs, so track screws will give you the ice traction.
I think that's about everything. I usually run with gauntlets on the handlebar also. Love the increased wind protection they give your hands.
mt
Oh yea, add a hitch. I prefer the J hook type of hitch. Buy the hitch kit from the dealer, or have him put it on.

response otterman
MT how do you have that extension on your windshield attached it almsot looks as if it is some type of clip or something but I like the idea of attaching high vs low and not having a double windshield.

response Martentrapper

Posted by Kusko
Hey MT, you need to look into studding your RMK with regular studs. All of my buddies with 1.25" tracks have their machines studded.

posted by HUPUREST
Studding a track that tall is rather risky, unless done 100% correct and a bit pricier. A stud that tall, has a large tendency to bending or ripping out of the track, due to the leverage it produces, when it gets a "hold" in a log, or ice

In order to stud it correctly, one would need to have 4 studs per row, and I would not go higher than a 1.375". the best studs are made by Fast trac, and are called top gun, they have the largest diameter head and are the BEST quality you can buy, and they back it up.

the backers you need to use are also made by the same company and are plastic angled backers. They fit up tight to the track lug, so the stud can not generate the leverage to rip out, as other flat or round backers allow. Also being out of plastic, they will not "cut" into the track as metal ones do, causing a rip out.

I was partners in a snowmachine race shop In NY, and these are the studs I, we used to grass drag, race and ride with.
I had 240 (5 per row)in a MXZ X 800, 3000 miles and I bent one stud, never lost any carbides or had track wear or a tear out. Other brands are FAR inferior to these, and it is all we would install on customers machines. One would also need tunnel protectors, as they will shred apart a tunnel and bulk head in no time

here is a link http://www.fasttractraction.com/topguncarbide2.htm

posted by martentrapper
No studs for me on a 1.25 lug. The track screws are alot easier to install.
Forgot about the tunnel protectors. Got to have those also, if you want studs or screws

Posted by HUPUREST
see absolutely no reason to stud here, unless you are racing rivers, or towing big loads on the ice. the track screws are perfect for most uses for that added extra traction, cheaper, and WAY easier to install..
the main reason I ran studs on the non race sleds was stopping, it halves the distance, especially at speeds above 80mph, and on hard pack it kicks up more for the heat exchangers. Most trails, unless frozen hard, the studs don't help much anyways, and they also rob power both low and rob the crap out of the top end, on my 800 it took off 11mph, lots of extra rotating mass, I would recommend a gear change to go along with it, down 1 to 1.5 teeth would be optimal. oh, and don't forget the new longer more agressive carbide runners you will need to steer it. the downside is the amount of ice chunks and rocks they pick up and throw, it is no fun riding behind a studded machine.
In ny , i broke a friends middle and index knuckles with a baseball size rock that it kicked up.
The only problem with those screws is putting them into a 1.5" inch or deeper lug. the track is thinner on the ends, so that it "sweeps" the snow away, gaining extra resistance for better traction. the ice screws do not hold up 1/4 the time they would in a shorter lug track, and very often pull out and tear apart the paddles.
if one wants to do it the cheapest way, get some 1/4" hex head machine screws with 3/4" long shanks. that is how I used to do dirt bike and old wheeler tires, like $4.
I also, use round head bolts that fit through the holes in the running board for extra traction, instead of buying those $80 aluminum ones. and for the very aggressive rider get em 1" and sharpen em with a grinder.