Chain vs cable stakes

I am in PA and am looking at upgrading my cable superstakes to chain. Pros, cons? clay and rock soil where I trap. is it easier to pull a Chain stake up rather than a cable?

With chain you don't have the stiff cable sticking up out of your trap bed. I went to chain and will NEVER go back to cable.

All I run is chain. Or you can use cable for 6 inches the chain for the top half.

swampwolf has plenty for sale in trap shed ready to use good price.

Get the originals on chain if you are in Clay. I got one dozen finned super stakes a few years ago to try. Bad Idea. I think those would hold a herd of elephants.

I wondered about that. I got sick of the cables sticking up in my trap beds. Ground was so hard I couldn't get most drove in very far. I couldn't get any out of the ground this time either, and had to leave them. Glad I didn't have the chain.

x2

I'm in n.e. pa and nothing but chained super stakes for me. If you go the same route make sure you build or by a puller. If you have farm fields you may be able to pull them without but anywhere else....good luck.

Taxi, I do the same, but no copper. Is copper better? Why?

Thanks

What is the advantage of the cable? Why not all chain?

I did all chain this year and did not weld the S hooks that attached the chain to the anchor. Almost every one I tried to set the S hook bent or whatever it did and when I went to pull and set the anchor up came everything. I had to redo 7 dozen traps on day one of my season. Guess I should have tested them first. Anyway I just did a small length of cable like above. and did not have any other issues.

I made 3 dozen with super stakes a few years ago and welded the s-hooks and really like them, just curious if there is any advantage to the cable. I can see if you don't have a welder.

I use the chain/cable combo because I don't have a welder. I like super stakes, but use a lot of wolf fangs because I don't pull the stakes. Fangs cost < $0.50 & super stakes cost > $1.00

Copper is just for use with stainless cable,which is all I use now.

It saves a little money and weight,plus,I don't weld.

I used chained super stakes last year and for awhile this season. scared I was going to hurt myself getting them out of the ground.
going back to Berkshires with chain and about 6 inches of cable.

I made some for this season and I like them alot except when it comes to pulling them because nothing fails on them so they can be a pain to pull bit o just take me dirt hole auger and drill a hole beside it and I then can pull them out by hand.

I have used the cable stakes for years and as far as the cable sticking up I drive them into the ground and leave only an inch sticking up and have no problems with a bunch of cable sticking out

I like cable. A lot less weight when transporting them to the set locations. As far as length and the cable sticking up out of the ground...I make my own so I can custom make them the length that I need at different locations. In farm fields I use about 12" of cable. In mountain terrain I use about 8" of cable. It works for me. If you buy your own crimping tool and the cable and crimp connectors you save money if you have very many of them that you use on the line.

I prefer chain. Bc I have had coyotes chew on the cable that could only be driven in 12 inches and there 18 inch cables I believe. So alot was sticking up but held fine. But the yote chewed cable stake almost into,and even popped a spring off one lever on mb450. Hard fighting yote. I have pic that trap holding the yote with one spring somewhere

Thanks for the info. Maybe I'll change to stainless/copper because I use my cable/chain stakes year after year and they are never pulled.

I built the first SS ones for some permanent sets but the alkaline soil here,is pretty corrosive on galvanized cable and chain so I converted most of mine over.I also clean and prime the anchor head itself.That helps a lot.After the season I check over the ones I've pulled,file off any dings or burrs,clean and prime again.

The 12"/6" lengths have been perfect for me.I can always get the 12" cable in but sometimes need more so 18" can come in handy.This way,they are all made the same and there's no reaching for a length that I'm out of or forgot to pack.

Ebsurveyor,are you pre-drilling for your anchors?

Chains great in ground where retrieval is moderately possible. I love chained super stakes in mild, loamy soil types.

Cables better if you plan to leave some behind.

Driving cable in at a 45 degree angle helps with that cable sticking up in the bend. Or you can heavily load the end of the anchor putting a pigtail into it so it curls up. Than it will lay flat in the bed more or less.

He is predrilling for his anchors. If I remember right, it is super rocky where he traps in Maine.

Red Neck got it right. In the shale/rocky ground I trap it takes longer to set a stake than it does to make the rest of the set. When I have time I preset my chain stakes before the season. Drags are not legal in the Lynx Zone of Maine.

For the bobcat and coyote trappers----
What cable diameters do ya'll prefer ? I have almost always used drags and when i did stake in the past i used re-bar stakes(home-made).
Am getting back into trapping and am thinking that chain, cable or a combo may be the way to go. Lots of rocks here in Wyoming. I really like the looks of the washer/cable steaks. I have a wire welder and gas/oxy set-up so i can fab and prefer to when i can.

3/32" will work but I always use 1/8" because it is only a penny more per foot but almost twice as strong.The worst beating an anchor takes is when pulling.Washer anchors(pogos)aren't the best in rocky conditions.

Thanks for the info Taximan
There are bigger canines in the Bighorn's than just 'Yotes. I have seen two and cut tracks all the time, 1/8' is hat i was thinking but wasn't sure. I prefer drags but not to sure how they would perform. I have been toying with different ideas in my head, i am a tite wad so i prefer to build my own things when i can. Besides, it's rewarding as heck.

Do earth anchors need boiled?

I'm not an expert but I treat my cable stakes (earth anchors) just like I do my traps, I boil them and then dip them in Formula 1 speed dip, for the scent removal and for some corrosion protection. Even though they are "disposable" stakes I have some that have been used 3 years (that's how long I've been trapping, I've had success but am still a "rookie") and they still are in use. If they are new stakes I degrease them first by spraying with Windex, before boiling and dipping. Maybe others here have different views, but that is my 2 cents. Good luck.

I would definitely go with 1/8" then.I have held a couple wolves with them,not much more than 12" deep.That of course,depends on ground conditions.I've also pounded two in,18" deep for one wolf trap,in thawed ground.

No.Some dip them in wax,for corrosion protection.That didn't help much here,so I now use stainless now.

How well does a stainless chain take dye ?

It won't.If you want to dull it,put it in undiluted muriatic acid for about 24 hours or until dull,then neutralize.It will take on a nice,dull gray and won't hurt the chain.Forget dye,with stainless.

No need to treat cable stakes, they are under the ground. Plus, boiling and such CAN break down and weaken the cable.

I use 1/8"

Taximan- thanks for the tip.

Ditchdiver- i was referring to the top half of the stake that Taximan shared. It is very rocky here and i can see some chain being left above grade. Taximan is right about the alkali in this east slope country, it is pretty prominent.

These stainless swivels come mirror polished-like chrome.This is what they look like after being in muriatic acid,overnight.They blend in well.

Any need to loc-tite the pins ? We use those for some of our logging set-ups, but much larger i bet.

HTF307,I use those on my wolf rigs.I screw it tight till the threaded end protrudes a little,then peen it over.After that,I clip of the tab on the other end.Semi permanent but I don't sweat them rattling open.These are 1/4",600# rated.