Understanding chain length

I guess this is like asking about the best trap, but here goes:

Why go with any given chain length?

So, if short chains mean less room to run and gain speed, but more potential to pump a stake, and long chains mean more room to gain speed, but greater difficulty in pulling a stake (pulling across more, and up less) .... how do you win? Seems like there's no winning with physics.

Cross stake your traps and You won't get any pumping.

Earth anchors + short chains= no pumping, less damage to trap and animal. Imo

You still get earth anchors pumped if you get enough rain with earth anchors.

Could be, I carry two lengths of cable stakes for just such occasions. Haven't had any issues yet,(knock on wood).

I like 18-30" of chain. I double stake or cable to a tree

I think chain length depends on several factors. Target animal, terrain, chance of theft, dry land or water sets, fur trapping or live market, and shock spring usage or not and probably many factors I haven't mentioned. I don't believe any one length of chain can handle all situations.

So what's the formula to figure it out, other than trial and error?

There is no formula. It is trial and error to some degree and it depends on one's style of trapping. One thing that must be considered is what type and size of trap you are using. Smaller traps using a short chain doesn't let the animal test the trap like a longer chain would. Where a larger trap that has a base plate and laminated jaws will take more of a beating from a larger critter. They can't pull them apart as easily.

There are so many factors to consider as to what length of chain to use. This season I used some drags with longer chains and anchored some traps with longer chains to trees back off the roadway edge to hide the catches. What I found out is that the longer chain in most of these cases allowed the animal to get tangled up in forest ground vegetation and cause more damage to themselves. This was in thicker forested areas. If in more open country this wouldn't have been as much of an issue but then you need to track the animal further, in case of the drag, than you would in thicker areas. So I think it really depends a lot on the area and terrain you trap in along with what equipment you are using.

I think I'll wait before I comment..Later

Don't be shy bus lol.
Staked traps, 24 to 36 hr check time,
I like 10" on my 1.75s and 3s
18" om my 1 1/2s for water and coon sets.

This has been a topic since the beginning of the internet.
I have tried what others like and settled on the above.
Not because others are wrong, but like Grey said, variables.

If I went shorter than ten, I would struggle since I stake under the trap and usually in a cereal bowl type hole. If I went longer, more swivel fouling.

A lot of mine have chestnut type dbl stake rings.
One time I went to cable stakes, the ring lengthen my chain a couple inches over what two rebars in the ring. I noticed right quick that little difference and that confirmed I had it right for me.

Good swiveling is more important than the magic length.

Oh and I learned the DPs can be shorter, but not longer. I two swivel those, too.

Well I don't use drags so I don't worry about that.
All my traps and I mean all of them have no more then 14" of a combination of swivels anchor points and chain. I have never had a problem with that length being to long or to short.
90% of the time I double stake whether I'm using earth anchors or steel stakes.

Eastwood I never did hear you say what trap setup and what species your after ?

Also what ground conditions?

Mixed line, mostly coon and coyote. Running mostly 450,550, Bridger 2, and occasional dp. Ground typically hard dirt, some yellow clay. Moving to new ground that's sandy as much as anything.

I trap sandy soil. I cross stake with rebar out in the fields, and cable with wolf fangs in the cover where tractors don't roll. All my 550's, and Bridgers have stock chain length with an extra swivel added. No stake pumping, and no problems.

There may be a benefit to a longer chain in my conditions...but I don't see it.

I'll explain later LOL

I was a short chain guy up until I tried long chains. now all my land traps have at least 18 inches of chain. When the trap captures the coyote first thing he does is go straight up. 18 inches they run out of steam. Then the attack the trap with there mouth, then the lunging starts. By this time a well constructed trap has locked. With 18 inches of chain you also get less mounding in snow and loose soil witch can hinder the swivels. Thus the catch circle is much flatter so the remake is smooth. So the next animal will enter the circle without as much distraction. Longer chains also hold incidental coon better because the have more to chew on and are more free. The true teller is the fellers that have extended checks. At least 5 swivel points. I can also move the trap around in the set proper with longer chain if need be. Thanks Red

All my coon/mink footholds have 24 inches of good chain and lots of swivels. All my drags have 10 foot of the same good chain.

Makes sense.
except the mounding aspect. I know this Isn't the same but with a 7 foot snare the mounding at the anchor point Is major. In fact there won't be a thing at the edge of the catch circle It will all be at the anchor point. What happens Is the coyote Is digging at the edge trying to get away and moving every thing back to the center.
That also happens In certain conditions with mid length chains. But It all depends on the ground cover.

Ok here is snow

Mounding is very minimal

Its my belief if they can move around some they move to get comfortable and end up Not fighting the trap as hard because they are not stuck in one place.
It's mostly coyotes and cats but but 99% of my cat traps are on a drag they born to be on a drag imo.

9-10 inces chain with 3 swivel points and a big set of double stakes. Never had anything pump the stakes out.

Like I said I WAS a short chain guy until I tried long chains. FREEDOM! LOL Rig a couple up It'll open your eyes too..

I don't have any traps with chains over 12".
Jim

What does everyone consider long and short for chains??? 18” of chains doesn’t seem overly long to me but 6-8” would seem overly short.

I agree, short factory chains in my area gunked up with mud and any grass would be braided around the chain making it like bridge cable. I had several pullouts. I read about the old timers using longsprings with long chains and not being on a regular check holding coyotes. So I started adding more chain ( 18" - 24" ). The longer chains made the area around the set more friendly for a remake. Most times it looked as if a deer or antelope had bedded down, not all dug up unless a badger happened along the set. Then it looked like a miniature volcano.

Edit - There is also anywhere from an additional 6" - 9" of chain from my superstakes added to that length.

I believe that is the difference between extended checks, and 24 hr check. If I make a catch at between midnight and 6 in the morning, I'm there at 8 am. Animal has had very limited time to fight the trap. Out in the fields, in my sand country, there is very little...if any...mounding. In the cover, with grass, there is. The 3rd swivel makes a big difference there.

I wouldn't hesitate to use a longer chain tho, if I felt the need for it. It'd be no problem where I trap, as it is all private ground with no prying eyes to worry about.

This is a great photo!

I think if your wanting to run single stakes you should look to MR. Sterlings method of 30” or 32” of good welded chain. If you plan to run double stakes or earth anchors you can run short chains ( 8” to 10” ) with no fear.

Lost 2 traps this season to coyotes pulling my crossed 21" rebar stakes. 1st time coyotes pulled them out. Have lost a couple to bears over the years but, this was new. I will say that on one of them the second stake went in pretty easy.

Has me rethinking my anchor system. Chains are 16-18" with shock spring.

Whats a "short" chain? 12"? 10"? 6"?

What a "long" chain? Two foot? Six?


The old timers used "long" chains, 3+ foot because their staking options sucked and go back far enough, weight and transport was an issue. Hardwood stakes, or natural drags and "clogs". They had to get the critter (especially coyotes) out a ways. Dog knot stakes were a game changer, and since we've seen chains get shorter and shorter.


With our staking options today, I see no reason to use more than two foot of chain for staked sets. There is no advantage to 3-4 feet of chain at these sets with the options we have in anchoring them today. In fact, at a buried, staked set, I see this much chain as a disadvantage, more crap to bury. Add in a stop shock spring, and its even more cost, and even more stuff to find a home for in a trap bed.

For what its worth, I use whatever length comes on a #3 Montana. Must be about 18".

As far as staking, you have to know your ground. I can knock in a single 24" piece of rebar in MOST of my country and never, ever, have to worry about it going anywhere. If its a little softer, I go up to 30". If its REAL soft (a real rarity, and treat, here), I use a 12" wolf fang.

Good stuff, Boone.

Willey Carol said the only reason the old time wolfers used long chains set ups was that It was easier when making re makes. And that makes sense

I ran competition coon hounds for years and I know that you can drive a 20” smooth stake in the ground. Put a 4’ dog leash and a 65# amped up hound on the he end of it for three days and not have to worry about the stake being pulled. It only makes sense that a 35# coyote should not be a problem.
I have often thought that it may have been less trouble to use the long chain and smooth stake, especially after our ground freezes !

About 75 % the reason I use a longer chain
Not because I worry about coyotes
It the bigger stuff that can cause problems

There enough hard out there why make it harder.
I know lots of guys that do just that with rebar

I went to just about 90% smooth rod this year. I will never go back to re bar. A lot easier to drive and a whole lot easier to remove. But I just about always cross stake so I'm not getting any stakes pulled. But It sure makes It easier on the trapper.

A majority of the chain set-ups I am asked to put on modified traps for customers is between 16" - 18" long with 3 swivels

I was running 18” and 20” X 5/8” smooth stakes on about 24” of chain on the end of a #3 Vic catching 2 or 3 coyote before moving the stake. Seems kind of silly now no harder than it is to move a stake. I like the short chains on 18” of cable and a wolf fang like I’m using now but once the ground freezes I can’t pull the wolf fang. For frozen ground you might get by with a single stake and a short chain but I would still feel better and recommend the longer chain for any single staking situation!

I hope all that makes sense !

I am looking at this option a lot harder than I use too I tell you.

Mine could be complete coincidence. I dont know the reasoning behind it, if it is just my area, or what it could be. I was using mb550’s with stock chain and an added crunch proof swivel midway in the chain. When I would manage to make a catch, I always returned to a ball of mud and grass with hardly anymore length for the yote to move around. I decided to try some USA (#2 I believe - same size as stock 550 chain). I dont really measure it but will measure it to see what the total is. I would say 12” in addition to the stock, 4 swiveled and have had zero issues since. Just last night I harvested my biggest coyote yet - 46 lb male and no problem at all with my setup. It was an absolute muddy grassy mess but nothing got bound up. Maybe it was the swivels, the chain, or both. I dont know. And it has been nasty rain and muddy conditions here that normally cause the “balling” up on my sets.

Also I run 24 hr check mainly have red clay here.

Swivel types make a big difference in clay type soils. Got all my land traps rigged with JC Conner rod swivels at the D ring, or terling type swivels with nail J hooks. the less steel the less mud builds up. Even in long grass muddy clay stuff. Anythin less than 12 is short to me, 18-24 is much better, without shock springs, with a 15 inch chain stake. Most of the time it gets driven 12 inches deep. With my soil types and weather I just pound the extra chain in the bottom of the deeper trap bed. Just like anything else in trappin, gotta find the right combination for YOUR conditions.

I have 4 MB Crunch Proof Swivels and a J.C. Conner's T-Bar In-line Shock Spring positioned in the center of the length of chain on my MB550 chains. The total length, 18", it keeps the grey matter between my ears happy...

2X Red mt. I too think that they are more comfortable with a longer chain set up. And after running longer chains this yr I caught more coyotes in remakes. I run 550s offsets with stock chain and swivels then 20 links of number 3 US chain. And a chained super stake with 16" of US number 2 I usually drive super stake down about a foot. No foot damage tells me that they are more content and fight the set up less.