Bridger #5 longspring traps

I was thinking of buying some Bridger #5 longsprings, has anyone found the need to base plate them? I will probably center swivel them.

No need to do that...fine trap!

DEFINITELY no need. It's got a thick baseplate.

Get the dukes instead. I have both....The dukes are better. Much better pan system.

I have the Bridger #4 and they need no base plate. Plenty of trap there. I'm not completely happy about the pan and dog though.

I had kicked around the idea of getting some DLS and I did think that the pan on the Duke seems a bit better, but I have heard an old wolfer say they that he didn't like them.
So both the bridgers and the Duke's are very cheap for DLS traps. I like good traps. So after much deliberation I might just get the Bridger #5 coil springs.
They have the right pan and they are already set up.
Heavey, 4 coil, the proper pan, and baseplated for less than both of the cheaper long springs then I can save some cash and buy some nice DLS in the future.

You might want to look at the Sleepy Creek 4and1/2 already center swiveled, good pan and super strong

Ken, you won't regret that bridger.

I base plate mine...and the reason is, I want the swivel coming off the bottom,(on a D-ring) of the frame and NOT the spring !
I also use #9 wire to laminate the jaws and add a Paws-I- Trip pan system.
On older models, I can show you a method of re-strengthening the springs that will out last the trap !
I add two double swivels right off the D ring / frame.
Never lost a beaver in this set-up, ever !
If you're on facebook, you can see quite a few pictures in my albums of this set up and the results.
Otherwise, someone will have to walk me through how to post pics on here, as I don't know how since they stopped using Photo Bucket !

L T

I have quite a few Sleepycreek 4 1/2’s I was hoping to get something I can set over my knee, that was my only reason for trying something else. The Sleepycreek are probably the best made longspring traps ever made.

don't rule out the crimp on center swivels

Thanks LT, yes we are actually FB friends. Love to see your posts. I have quite a few Sleepycreek 4 1/2s. I was looking for a large longspring that I could set over my knee. I can’t do that with the Sleepycreek 4 1/2 I use a setter and “U” clip. If I bought the Bridger I would center swivel them and probably base plate too. Hope all is well on your end.
Scott

All great traps. But I see no need to center swivel any of those traps that aren't already done that way.
I just don't like having that chain under my traps. And actually I feel that a side mounted chain system has better holding power. When the critter Is pulling on the trap It's pulling It's foot Into the tightest part of the trap.
And If a beaver Is toe caught It's most likely to pull out no matter how you have the chain set up.

I can tell by that statement, you don't own any original Newhouse or L P C traps !

I've toe caught a good many beaver , even one toe and held them in modified Montgomery coil spring traps on 18 foot of swiveled chain.
They never had anything solid to pull against .

Are you long chaining them with that rig?

I long chain the majority of them, hate to haul weight or foll bags.

I’ve got some of the old victor 4n cast jaw longsprings they have always done well. But I stopped using them after someone else decided to liberate a few from me

Describe your trap you use,any mods.,and chain length if you would.I tried it yrs. ago and ended up making some changes,but quit trapping beaver and never really tried it again.Going to start chasing the buggers again and I'm curious how other folks do it.

Buck, unless I use a drowning ROD, I always long chain my beaver traps.
Usually 18 foot of #2 twist link, heavily swiveled.

Using drowning wire and bags of sand and rock weights, etc. , is not for a man with a lot of traps to run !
I can make a beaver set in two minutes, staking the trap right by the set.

I started trapping beaver back in 1987 using a #4 Kangaroo trap.
I've yet to foot or even toe a beaver using long chain set, regardless of trap used.
For years, I used my #4 modified Montgomery coil springs and held lots of beaver in them, front foot, back foot and even toe caught !
Today I prefer a 750 CDR or a Modified #5 Bridger, both long chained.
I seldom see a reason to drown a beaver.

Are you modifying your 750's and CDR'S?

I don't own a trap that isn't modified, unless it's an LPC

Okay.I modified a dozen TS-85's,the rest of the steel I now own are 4 jumps and No.4 Newhouses.Could use those on drowners I suppose.I had put up to 18' of chain on mine when I tried it years ago,I shortened them down to 10' after a season.Our rivers are DEEP and have all kind of entanglements on the bottom.These rivers are the kind that back in the day they ran logs down them during spring break up,all kinds of debris on the bottom of these waters,some of it comes from those spring drives made over 100 yrs' ago.Any way,always looking for a easier and better way of doing things.Good thread.

Back to the topic after all the sword fighting:

The difference between the Bridger #5s and the Duke #5s is the Dukes are center swiveled and have a Pit Style pan (if either interest you).

I base plated some of my Bridgers. Hindsight it didn't make any difference. Sometimes mods don't make a better trap....and sometimes they do.

I like the big longs but for ADC jobs I always grab the big coils now.

But like always...To each his own.

If a guy must have a center swivel, you can crimp one on the bridger 5 long. It's an option.

Crimp and weld it ? I've yet to see a crimp on I thought I would trust without a weld.

Would it be better to have the D ring off center to accommodate setting on your leg in comfort? I'ts a lot quicker to set with long chains verses drowners. Like Buck though I run 6-10 foot for the same reasons, lots of stuff to tangle. Most are setting on the bank waiting. The only time I use drowning rods is to hide them at bridges.

Those ones Ed Medvets makes can pull a truck while crimped on. Fo sho.

More like a hammer on I should say.

I just run a length of chain around the base and hook the ends together with a universal swivel. It gets it off the spring end and allows setting over the knee without the center d-ring from digging into the leg

What's LPC?

Livestock Protection Company.From what I can tell they hold the rights to the Newhouse design.

What model posi trip pan are you using on the bridger LS ?

Although I take 99% of my beaver with bodygrips,I have a half dozen #5 LS bridger traps for removing the odd nuisance beaver that has been educated by a rookie.I ordered them with the Pit pan,but I adjust them for a fairly light tension by bending the dog.
I always use a positive drowner since I am a fan of the extended check,and I don't like messing with live animals on the trapline,just slows you down.I don't use any weights on my drowners,I use an 8 foot dry pole cut on site as a deepwater stake set from shore.
I started trapping beaver in 1971 with #4 victors on the drowning pole.

I used to do all my coils that way before D ringed base plates. #2 twist link works best.

#2 twist does work well, should have put that in my post

I use them often. Center swiveled with a PIT center PIT Center Locator and a PIT Swivel coming from it (lays the flatest), probably about 6 inches chain that came with the trap (real heavy stuff) and the drowner lock/swivel that came with it. I think I shorten that chain. I want it outside the jaw only 2 inches.

This gives good swivel and allows you to drown in water a full foot shallower than hooking off the spring swivel arrangement they come with.

I use the correct size Pit Pan #7 and I use a good deal of tension, maybe 5 lbs.

Dynamite traps for beaver. I have over a dozen SC 4.5s and they are quite the machine. But, IMO, the are more than I need on beaver and I fear ever getting caught in one outside the reach of a setter.

I LOVE dls for beaver. However, on long chain rigs I use infrequent I prefer coils as there is less to get stuck when spinning around, therefore less twist offs.

Ringbill>
thanks for the Pan model number.

Awesome post.

I would offset the center swivel if you set over your knee. JC Connor makes offset baseplates. Could always make your own rod baseplates fairly easily with a vice.

You obviously aren't talking about trapping numbers of beaver. You must be talking the occasional ADC job right out of the truck. I can think of many reasons to drown beaver. For one thing, 18' of chain weighs a LOT. You aren't going to carry many traps with 18' of chain. Plus it takes extra time to dispatch live beaver. Drowned beaver are out of sight and cooled down for skinning. Drowned beaver are far less likely to get bit up by another beaver. Drowning sets don't need to be checked every morning. And sooner or later you're going to have a twist off long chaining with large traps. I've had a few really close calls myself, and with no entanglement. It takes less than 6 minutes to drown a beaver if it can't get air. Hold a beaver for 6 minutes and he's done. Long chaining, you may need to hold a beaver for 12 hours or more. Drowning just makes more sense.

18 FEET? Must be a typo.

I'll use half that sometimes with a weight wired to the trap...Drowned beaver (and no...you don't need 30 lbs like some think). But yes, that weight sure adds up quick.

And a lot of areas around here where a beaver up on the bank with a #5 on its leg will get you a LOT more attention than you want (and fired from an ADC job)

I won't even use magnum jawed #330s for that reason if doing ADC work anywhere near residential.

Down and out is the way to go. Blub, blub, blub.

18' isn't that heavy. Unless your using tie down chains. #2 isn't heavy. 4-6 in a pack basket or sled isn't a hard pack. LT is bigger than I am so...

Anyone figure he's not going out setting like everyone else ? Not everyone goes out with all the traps their gonna use that season and try to set them out that day. Sound more like he's using a progressive line tactic.

And on the subject if you've never seen Dale billingsley's beaver video I highly suggest you do !

10 feet of chain staked deep. And 4 or 5 lbs of weight attached to the chain close to the trap. That will tire out any beaver In a short time.
no matter what anyone tells you I don't want a live beaver on the bank period.

Bears and wolves are the problem here. Down and out is best .

X2

I've seen Dales video. I like it...and has its application but trap enough beaver with long chains and you will learn what they can, and will, find under the water to hang up on. Even on a sand beach at times.

Weighted like beav does and usually not an issue (other than retrieval) but no weight and you will experience more wring offs if front foot caught. And no matter what you do, you will get a front foot once and awhile.

I don't want them up on land alive either....but to each his own.

Anyone notice how far this has moved from the the subject? So I’ll add my zero cents worth. When I moved up here there was a minister who trapped a lot of beavers wearing nothing more than knee boots and no body grippers. He tied railroad plates wired close to the trap.

What did he call that-the hail Mary set?

No! It was his way of “servicing “ the beaver “house” of worship. Ok I need to get a life. Gonna go cut,split more hickoryand locust.

I am very interested in how to strengthen the old springs, I have several older ones with weak springs and a few that broke in half.

The best way I've found to strengthen the springs is to put 1 1/2 springs inside the #5. They can be either new or old. They fit perfectly. I tack welded them, just don't get them too hot. Works great.

That's the best way.

You can also cut pipe segments and force them Into the spring end and tack them In place.

Thanks for the tips goldy and beav

Ttt

I have some brigder #5 dls also. Fixing to order paws- I - trip pan system for them. I also use #5 coil too. Both are very good traps.

I have several #5 bridgers Dls and a couple dukes if i were to buy more I would buy dukes . They come center swiveled ,a pit style pan and are stronger