Chain, Machine or Twist link ?

Any preferences ? I don't have a trap with twist link on it. I'd like some opinions for the future .

Like one guy said. Probably no advantage from one over the other, but the twist link sure looks cool!

Machine chain just does everything better. Twist can get into some nasty knots, not that machine cant. Machine stores and comes out of storage a lot easier. If you can fine twisted(kinkless) welded, its even better but buying it new is expensive.

I am talking about Twisted (kinkless welded). Not twin loop.

Twist link takes up less room in the trap bed, but coyotes chew on both LOL..

I like the way twist link looks,handles and settles in the bed but I'm not sure there's enough advantage to worry about.I just like the twist link so I use it a lot.

I have traps with both, but I don't see an advantage with either. I like the looks of twist link, especially on 3N's, couldn't tell ya why though. A foot of #3 twist link is heavier than #3 machine chain. That could be an advantage or disadvantage depending on the situation. I pick up cheap chain and pieces at yard sales and auctions when I can.

Twist link just plain looks cool

Cool looks don’t kill coyotes.

If they did, I’d have killed em all!

Funny right there!

So...twist link is your preference ? lol

I use tire chains for my coyote traps, they are super hard and cheap if you get them at auctions or yard sales

Been there done that.

One thing to consider if you plan to use twist link,is that due to the twist,there is less space inside the link.A J hook will fit through there but you will probably have to open up an end link to get a quick link through.If you look at 3N's and Newhouses with kinkless chain,there is a round,welded ring connecting the chain to the swivel.

I usually put the end link in the vice and use a screwdriver to take the twist out of that link.I then tap on the top of the link to make it open more.You have to make sure the weld isn't cracked,after doing this.If it does,cut it off and repeat.Thirty years ago,the welds rarely cracked.With today's chain,occasionally I work one that does.

I've used a drift pin to open links but with today's chain,I get more cracked welds so I quit using it.It might have worked better on old chain.

x2 lol

Ideally, I'd have good #2 machine chain on all my traps, maybe #3 on a few but I have never had any issues with #2. I too like the looks of the twist-link chain, but I don't think its any better on traps than machine chain. Something like this... http://www.minntrapprod.com/MB-2-HD-Straight-Link-Chain/productinfo/MB2CH-01/

The twist link packs with mud more than the straight link IMO, and it's a little harder to clean.

Straight-link, not twist-link.

I've converted all my wolf foot-holds to straight-link. No galvanized, stainless, or nickel-plated, so it will take a rust and a dye the same as my traps. The straight-link is stronger (tensile) than comparable-size twist-link, and in summer trapping where I catch lions, black bears, and possibilities of grizzlies, I want the chains strong. Also, the twist-link seems to pack more mud, so every time I boil and clean (deodorize) my gear, my boiling pot partially fills with glop when using twist-link.

Just my opinion, after many years of trying both types of chain.

Jack

I appreciate all the thoughtful comments .

I love how twist link flows and folds in nicely to a bed, but it does have some disadvantages over straight link. For one, the gaps in twist link are narrower and some rivets or quicklinks won't fit well through the links. It's really noticeable on #2 twist link, larger rivets and j-hook don't fit very easily in the links unless you widen them a little and that may weaken the welds. See in these pics of my #2 longs with short length of #2 twist link between swivels? I actually had to widen the end links to accept the j-hook for swivels, seriously. Larger #3 twist link no problem but #2 twist link it's a little tight in the link gaps.
I'm a fan of both but yes straight link is preferable to me these days too.
Either one is light years better than non-welded twin loop you get on some traps standard off the shelf these days.
Jim

Even some #3 twist link has a narrower link that makes getting a heavy duty hook through tricky.

I’ve got two boxes of #3 twist link, one has a noticeably narrower link and like jabne said, j-hooks bind up in. The other is good.



I have no preference. Twist or straight, whatever I can get cheapest. But ONLY #3.

Take the twist link end loop
put in a vice on it's ends
tighten down a little to make it more of an "O" shape but just a little
"J" hooks won't bind anymore
works for #2 and #3 twist link

Try one and you'll see

I have worked with both. The twist chain of course is mostly made in the USA and better quality but the straight link sure is easier to work with in the vice and a little cheaper. Guess it depends on how suborn you are about Made in the USA!

in your second picture where do you get them swivels?

Jcomer,sorry,I just saw this.

Those are stainless,marine swivels.They cost about $6 each.I shop around,sometimes the bay,sometimes chain companies.The Snare Shop sells the in line version.I just use them on my wolf rigs and the size is 1/4".

The rusty trap in the other picture has Sterling swivels from Montgomery Fur.They are my favorite on coyote traps.

Any hardware/big box/cheapo depot type store will sell those chain swivels.

Never seen them here,Bob.

That even made me laugh. Good one, Boone !

Especially on a dbls!!

LMBO good one Ambush

Twist link is machine chain?

Yes,twist link machine chain.

Thread title confused me ... all the twist loop I've seen was machine chain and only some of the straight link has been,I'll be alright though.
I only buy chain I can see and touch. Trapping places use an odd sizing system that I don't understand. "Passing link" is straight but won't kink because the links are wider. Mostly I use what ever comes with the trap til it wears, but I don't have wolves or lions.

Drooling

Twist link is awful nice when you have frozen ground. Combined with JC Connor/PIT/Sterling type swivels off the trap it makes less trap bed to dig to lay the trap flat IMO. After the first 8 inches or so I am indifferent and may use straight and crunch proof swivels.

As Boone so aptly points out, it may be more important to me than the critters.

I always use #3 or larger, going mostly to #5 on the straight now if more than a 1 1/2 trap. Too many wolves around here walking around with traps.