Chain length and type?

Howdy folks,

I'm a newbie and have some questions about chain lengths and type. On another post here I learned the difference between machine chain and twisted link chain and also about that chain that has the figure-eight links that are twisted shut (not to be confused with twisted link chain)..........

.....so I've decided to change out some of that figure-8 stuff on a few traps I have for machine chain and was wondering about length and number of swivels.

I should mention that we're talking about coil-spring coyote traps.

I have some traps that I bought from an experienced trapper that have a swivel at the trap, about 10" of machine chain (#3), and another swivel at the end. I note that this same set-up is found on a new MB-550, presumably the be-all end-all of coyote traps (at least to some).

I'm thinking this is the set-up to duplicate. Do you agree?

Is there any need for a shock-spring or another swivel somewhere in the system?

A lot depends on your soils, check time, the type of stake and what your trapping. I run 80% number 3 traps with 18 inches of chain, 3 swivels one at the trap, one in the center and one at the stake. My line is mostly coyote with a few fox and coon. I use a smooth round stake that is knotted. I run a three day check sometimes 2 day depending on conditions and other factors. I trap mid Oct to the end of Dec. in loam type rock soil to sandy soil. I have been very pleased with this and have had very few pullouts few pulled stakes. Been using this system for 30 plus years and put up close to 300 pelts a year. So see what other info you get and go from there. It really depends on a lot of other things that come into play. The only time I use a longer stake is at a badger dig or pocket gopher soils that are fluffy. In some cases there your better to use a drag if there is vegetation that will hook up the drag.

There's a coyote guy out of Indiana (whos caught thousands of coyotes) that I believe just runs the stock Twist loop (figure 8) chain....so I don't think it's necessary to change out the chain like some say. (I actually like it better for water trapping) but if it makes you feel good, do it.

Ask 10 trappers about chain length and you'll get 11 answers. One thing to note is the smaller/less durable traps can benefit from shorter chains. Less chance to lunge keeps those smaller traps intact. I run a short chain and never had a jaw pop on even crappy traps that shouldn't hold a coyote. And a short chain does the same thing as a shock springs.

But always double stake short chains....if using rebar. Well I'd double stake any coyote trap personally. Cheap insurance.

Always add an extra swivel to your chains. if you get in grass, you'll foul one or two.

It is true that your gonna get a lot of different answers to your question because it’s a matter of personal preference . The double loop or figure 8 chain does not bed well under the trap. This can be overcome by digging a trench to lay your chain in . That being said , the only chain that I ever had give up on me was the double loop chain !

To answer your question about chain length we need to know about your anchoring system . If I’m using an earth anchor I will use a short chain, 10” or less with at least a swivel on each end. If I’m using a single 20” stake ( we have very tight ground and a 24 hour check) I will use about 30” of machine chain and three swivels !

Start with a JC Conner rod swivel at the D ring then 3 links of #3 machine chain, attached to a crunch proof swivel attached to 12 more inches of #3 chain , 18 inches total to the anchor point.. Notice most trappers where there is extended check laws use long chain setups. I used to be a short chain guy until I tried longer chains. I loose fewer coon too..... And zero lost coyotes..

Thanks all who replied to this thread. Anyone else is welcome to...I'm still checking it (I'm the OP).

A lot of what you guys wrote makes a lot of sense to me and I don't think I would have ever considered things like species, soil, and anchoring systems. Seems like what length of chain I use and how I anchor it would vary from set to set.

The traps that I have accumulated so far....most of them have the swivel-10" of chain-swivel configuration. Some of them have roughly 18" of the figure-8-type chain.

Does it make sense to configure them all to the shorter chain length, then add pre-made lengths as conditions dictate? I suppose using a quick-link to join the two lengths would work???

As to my anchoring system, right now I have earth anchors and like them. The few traps I've bedded I've driven in the earth anchor and then pulled like (This word is unacceptable on Trapperman) on it and it didn't move. Then again I was in soil that wasn't disturbed by ground squirrels, badgers, etc.

Again, thanks for the advice!

Soil type and anchor type should dictate chain length.

The old timers used and advocated long chain because they had limited anchoring options and most of them were poor by today’s standards.

With the anchoring/staking options today, there’s shouldn’t be much need for “long” (36”+) chains anymore other than on drags.

8-18” inches total outta suffice for most applications. THREE swivels. And I’d ditch the twin loop. Machine chain lasts longer and isn’t as much of a pain in the bottom of the bed like twin loop is.

I was told buy an old wolfer the reason for the long chain set ups were for ease In remaking the set. Makes sense when you think about It.

I use about 16" with 3 swivels on all my dirt sets. Seems to work pretty good.

Lots of good info so far. One thing not mentioned is stake pumping. Consider this setup: short chain, rebar stake, swivel at stake, perhaps soil wetted than when stake was originally driven. Coyote stands jumping on hind feet, jerks stake slightly upward, swivel slides down stake and locks on rebar ridges lower on the stake. Repetition of that process pumps stake out of ground.

If you already that excuse me for being too elementary.

I mostly use chained super stakes but when I use rebar it's always 2 cross staked.

Our anchoring methods have come so far,since I started.I use short chains in the 8-12" range and sometimes have an additional 6" of anchor chain above ground and never worry about coyotes pumping stakes.All mine are either double staked or on earth anchors,except for an occasional drag,where needed.In the dead of Winter,when the ground is frozen flint hard,I've started pre-drilling 18" stake holes with a long,1/2" masonry bit.These are cross staked as well and it takes very little tapping to get a rebar stake in.I honestly believe you could tap it in with a tack hammer,yet they have always held.Even those where the ground later thawed completely out,were not budged by coyotes.

Some say that a coyote fights a trap less with a longer chain and I don't dispute that.A longer chain does give them more momentum but again,with proper staking techniques,it's a moot point.Use what you like.

Use to use hd berks with 12-14 in of chain —very few problems on 24 hr check —-now have gone to fangs with same chain length on 24 check. NO problems.

So your pre drilling and then shoving In your stakes and cross staking. I think I might just have to do that In our frozen ground. My shoulder just can't take all that pounding anymore.

Yes Beav.I have a 1/2"x21",Bosch,masonry bit.I drill all the way for rebar stakes and about 16" for 18" smooth stakes.These are all,crossed stakes-no singles.I'm using either a 20V Dewalt,hammer drill or 20V rotary hammer.I can drill a hole in frozen ground faster than I can pound a stake in with a 5# hammer and no strain on my shoulder or wrist.Give this a try Beav.This will take the fight out of driving those stakes

Thanks for the tip I'm going to go that way this winter.

How often do you use the hammer drill?


I played with the hammer drill last fall. Hard frosty DRY ground, but not froze yet.

I was ready to boot the thing into the creek. Didnt work worth a crap.

Would a regular rotary type cordless work better In that type of soil? Might not bust up the ground like a hammer drill.

I guess nothing ventured nothing gained.

Taximan previously suggested his system of pre-drilling stake holes in frozen ground. I have benefited from his wisdom. I use a Milwaukee 1/2” 18 volt hammer drill with a side handle to power the extra long Bosch carbide tipped masonry bits. I carry a couple extra batteries. I carry both 3/8” and 1/2” bits for both stake sizes. I also use an extra long Bosch carbide tipped 1” masonry bit to dig out trap beds and dirt holes. I already had the hammer drill and batteries for carpentry work. The Bosch bits are expensive but they last very well.

For many years, I have used the same hammer drill in unfrozen ground with an auger bit to dig dirt holes. And I use a long ship auger bit to drill pilot holes for stakes and pilot holes for finned super stakes. Even in unfrozen ground, the pilot holes save time and makes driving stakes easier.

I use this same size battery to power quite a few tools, so I have 6 batteries. Because of extensive year round use and the nature of these rechargeable batteries, each year 1 or 2 wear out or hold only a reduced charge. So I add / replace two batteries each year to maintain 6 strong batteries. I look for higher amp hour ratings in the same size batteries. 3300 makes a big difference over 2500. eBay or amazon has the best price for generic replacements. I have found that the batteries last much longer if they are protected from extreme cold and extreme heat. So, I store them fully charged in heated / air conditioned storage. Another tip that helps is to label the batteries with the date of purchase and a specific reference number. That way I can easily monitor each battery’s age and performance. So for example, if battery #3 is consistently only holding a reduced charge, it will be replaced the next time. This little bit of extra care has saved much money on replacement batteries.

Boone - what hammer drill did you try? Size matters - the larger hammer drills with larger battery capacity and more volts make a big difference. A side handle also makes a big difference. What auger or bits? With masonry bits, quality is important. Good sharp carbide - and the Bosch bits are top quality. Hard frosty dry ground is usually easy to drill with this system.

Taximan recommended a rotary hammer as being better than the 1/2” hammer drill. And it can be used without the rotation to chisel out a trap bed. I would certainly like to use one, but I already have the good hammer drill and batteries. A new Milwaukee rotary hammer with 2 batteries and charger costs $500. With the present unfortunate low fur prices, I will not be buying the rotary hammer - I had to replace a couple other significant tools this year.

Taximan’s system works great and saves extra wear and tear on my broken up wrists and shoulders. It saves time too. Thank you Taximan for the great ideas and tips!

Best wishes to all.

Boone,I used it in the early season with 1 1/2" and 3" augers.Mine is a 20V Dewalt hammer drill.It worked well.In fact,in our rocky ground,it would sometimes get caught and it will wrench the heck out of you wrist.The augers haven't worked after the ground freezez hard.


By mid-Winter,the ground was too hard for the sod buster to be practical and I bought the Dewalt rotary hammer.It has drill mode,hammer drill mode and hammer mode which is like a mini jack hammer.I will probably use this one exclusively and use the other one in the shop.It's not that it's better but the hammer mode with a 1 1/2" tile chisel is great for chipping out trap beds in flint hard ground.A real plus is that it does't throw chips.They just roll off the chisel.Another good feature of the rotary hammer is it uses the SDS Plus system where you just push the bit in an turn slightly and to release,just pull a release collar.It's a pretty slick,quick change feature.It does mean you need SDS bits or an adapter chuck,which is what I use on my augers.I believe the rotary hammer may have more torque but I'd have to look that up.


When the ground gets that hard,I give up on the augers and use a 1" masonry bit for the occasional mouse hole.My rotary hammer cost $300 with two 4AH batteries and charger.


Beav,I haven't tried the regular drill mode but think it may work.It would be worth a try anyway.

OP here......this is awesome stuff guys! I would have never thought of using a hammer drill! I really appreciate everyone's comments and advice. Its nice to be thinking about trapping this coming fall/winter at this time of year!

$.02, set all traps up for short staking, with minimum of three universal type swivels (this six swivel points) and double staking (I use 5 links of chain for this: a chestnut loop is good too) then if you need to use a drag or clog you can easily add 8-12' of heavy chain at the stake loop. I sometimes might add an extension chain and tie to tree or log. I use clogs more than stakes in timber.
and fwiw, I don't think the extension chain benefits from any swivels, keep them all in the foot of chain at the trap, that extension is meant to tangle up.

Happy birthday TJM

I've posted this before. Here is what I use. I carry extra batteries & have a 12 volt charger for the drill batteries. I will never pound again. The hammer is either 6 or 8 pounds and only takes a few hits after the hole is drilled.

I use mine for every set. You either need a different bit or a different drill.

@ The Beav
The 18 & 20 Volt cordless SDS+ roto hammers should drill a 1" hole all the way through a concrete slab or wall, if your dirt is "hard as concrete" you might want one. The industrial masonry drill bits don't have smooth round shanks; the SDS and SDS+ are grove&spline lock-in systems and a roto hammer is to a hammer drill as a Kenworth is to a C-10.

Would It be any benefit to drill like a 3/8ths hole for a 1/2" stake.

Beav - yes, drilling 3/8” hole for a 1/2” stake works. It makes driving much easier than no hole. And you learn if there is a rock obstruction. It is like a pilot hole for a screw, smaller than the threads. Depending on soil conditions, sometimes I use 3/8” or 1/2” bit for 1/2” stake. Definitely worth experimenting and carrying on the line. I use it at every set. No more beating everything into the ground. Easier on equipment and especially broken up wrists and shoulders.

Ya I hear you.
I'm going to PT twice a week now to see If I can get a bit of my old range of motion back Into my shoulders. I think It's because of all the long hours bent over a fleshing beam.

I'm all for doing things easier In my old age.

Beav - good luck with the physical therapy. I hope that it helps you greatly. A good therapist can be very helpful.

I seriously work hard to maintain strength, flexibility, and range of motion. Every year it takes more work. I am on a serious program to not injure or reinjure myself. I am working smarter than ever before. I have broken my back twice and my shoulders and wrists are in bad shape from injuries. For me any period of inactivity is bad. Keep moving to keep moving!

My wife bought me a new tractor with a front end loader. That should take some strain off my back and shoulders. I guess she wants me around awhile longer.

Best wishes.

I have drilled 3/4" holes in frozen ground for 3/4" diameter nail pin stakes when setting forms and they held for what we wanted, so I'd say 3/8" drill for 1/2" stake should work fine. On one job a fellow had cut the shank off an old SDS bit and welded a small cup made with 1" pipe nipple to it so that he could use the Roto Hammer on hammer only to drive the stakes, I don't know if the battery models have this much power or not and I'm not sure how that worked out over time; just stuck in the brain as him being innovative.

I would suggest 2 - 3 foot chains on 1.5 traps and bigger.

Not arguing, but can you explain why?

I have read/heard reasons for 1' chains and reasons for 10' chains, but, none that would lead me to 2'or 3' chain.

At least not on a 1 1/2 sized trap. I don't want a critter getting up a head of steam when caught In small trap.

No more then 12" of chain for me.

I like 2-3 ft of chain because
#1. So the animal can't jerk up on it
#2. So you can wire your trap to a tree if need be.
#3. If you do wire it to the tree you can wrap the chain around the tree before wiring.

Good point! I like the long chains for wiring my traps to trees.

FREEDOM!! LOL

I don't like to wire anything when it comes to coyotes or bigger and wrapping the trap's chain around a tree,puts the terminal swivel out of commission.I prefer to use an extension cable or chain around the tree in such a fashion that it can slide around the tree,not cinched down.The trap chain is then attached to the extension with a quick link.

I agree Taximan that extensions work better for me. It also lets me place the trap away from the tree instead of right up against it. My experiences with some different chain setups make me want the chain shorter than 15" (~1') or longer than 3'.
The in between lengths seem to have all the disadvantages of both long and short chains, in that a jumper can still pump a stake and that a run & lungers can get up some momentum.
A very short chain on the trap lets if double stake/earth anchor nicely and with an extension becomes long enough to either work with a drag or tie off.

If I have to hook up to tree to make a set. I'm not going to make It.

Here are my typical chain setups.I much prefer the Sterling swivels over the universal type.

Here is a wolf setup with 4' chain and stainless,600#,cast swivels.I'll be putting mid-chain swivels on these.I don't put mid swivels on short chains.

Regarding chain type, I prefer straight link machine chain. Twist link is OK but it collects too much mud for my liking.

Bev - Tying to a small juniper tree or a large sage is common practice in Western deserts.

Taximan - I see your trap tags by stake swivels. I know why but it must be fun to watch a conservation officer stand on his head to read a tag.

They specify that the tags go on the terminal end.I don't have trouble with mud in twist link chain,even with mink traps set in muck.Crunch proof style swivels are like magnets to mud and wet grass.That's exactly what you don't want clogged.

All these short chain setups, I prefer 10 or 12 feet. Hehehe. But I trap primarily with drags.

When I went to shorter chains I had problems with coyotes jacking the stakes out. I now double stake short chains. If I were to use longer chains I agree that a person can get by with one stake. But I also double stake or earth anchor everything now for insurance.