Waxed Dirt & Peat Moss

Are you able to use peat moss to make waxed dirt?

If you want waxed dirt I suggest you start with dirt. Waxed peat moss, never heard of it but there are a lot of things I haven't heard of.

I just didn't know. Of course I have peat moss already sifted. I just didn't know if adding the wax to it would give it a doubly water resistant property as well as add a property to be able to pack it better to make your set solid.

When I was trying to really make the waxed dirt last I'd put wax dirt in the base, and then fill inside the jaws, and the top of the trap with peat moss. Then I would top with waxed dirt. As long as you have wax dirt touching all of the soil at the set it's still bullet proof other than a freezing rain, and the peat moss filler doesn't use up your wax dirt as much. If you're going through the trouble of making wax dirt you may as well use regular soil as it beds easier, and I'm not even sure the peat moss would absorb the wax like regular soil.

Thanks Wade, I appreciate your input. It's just a question that I was wondering about.

If you try to add wax to peat moss you will en dup with real mess. IT's been tried. LOL

Beav, I'll definitely take your word for it.

Trust me it don't work LOL...

I'm just glad that I asked the question prior to trying it. I can only imagine.

Most of the time I like to keep things simple.

In good conditions I use what material Is at the set. An underall or a cover over the trap pan and under the jaws works just fine. If you have poor soli conditions carry In dry dirt and top dress with dirt from the location. All you need Is a little bit of top dressing.


Peat moss Is a very poor material for getting that trap bedded solid. Wax dirt Isn't much better but It does pack a little bit.
With both peat moss and dry dirt I will peg the trap so It's bedded solid. I only do this when conditions warrant It.

I start 11/1 with all waxed dirt/sand. No filler, no peat, no shortcuts.. No digging in fence rows for usable dirt when its wet and muddy. No maintenance , more sets working equals more fur..

My truck Is full of dry sifted dirt In zip lock bags. I use this in poor soil conditions.
I use a setting cloth and haul away most of the dirt taken from the set location. And use a bit of It to top dress the dirt I brought In. Sometimes I don't do that because It's added eye appeal.

Waxed dirt Is used only during wet freezing conditions. I very seldom ever use peat moss.

BINGO! This is how I use waxed dirt and peat - this past season we had low temps for 3 wks...ground was like concrete! lucky for me I was on good ground/locations with waxed dirt and peat inside the jaws - the peat eliminates the need of pan covers or polyfil under the pan - once the temps drop (freeze/thaw) I go to waxed dirt and peat...love it!

the BEAV and trappergbus make 2 interesting comments 1. Mixing sand in with good sifted dirt when making waxed dirt - did this last season for the first time and liked it - will do it again this yr. 2. Top dressing the trap pattern - I typically do this with debris/dirt/duff from the set location...may only be slightly but I do it to not only blend but also for odor/natural

Zimmerman, and anyone else, how do you sift your dirt? Is it just with your trapping sifter?

Zimmerman, I saw that you just did a butt load of dirt, that’s why I ask

Some people will lay something like a window screen (with bigger mesh) over a trash can and sift through that. Bigger sifter for faster production.

I first locate my dirt source - I toss the dirt with my loader so it's nice and loose - I use my fine mesh screen dirt sifter - I use a small D-handle shovel to load my dirt sifter...and sift away. I sift into a plastic cement mixing tube then pour sifted dirt into 5 GAL. buckets (w/o lids) - On a sunny hot day I lay a black plastic sheet in the driveway and pour all the sifted dirt onto it. I use a garden rake to turn the wet dirt until it's dry. Next I use a plastic dust pan to scoop all of the dry sifted dirt back into the 5 GAL. buckets - ready for wax.

Past few days I sifted 28 5 GAL buckets - got 23 dried. I will add 1 GAL. of fine play sand to each 5 GAL bucket of dry sifted dirt - mix well and ready for wax.

Making waxed dirt is a lot of work - me filling - carrying and dumping 5 GAl. buckets is a lot of work - I always first sift my dirt so I'm not carrying around rocks and junk - for me the 5 GAL. buckets make it easier to move the dirt, from processing to using out in the field. Again, it's a lot of work BUT it's sure nice having that waxed dirt when the ground freezes - in the cold weather, I won't trap without it!

Thanks a lot Zimmer, that’s some great information. Now to tell the wife that I need a loader to make waxed dirt. I know she’ll understand how this piece of equipment is an absolute necessity to speed up the process and make it more economical. I mean that thing should pay for itself in no time. Lol

Ok, who’s got a couch for me to
Sleep on? Zimmer, you’re from PA. Send me an address

I made a 3x2 sifter from a metal screen door guard and added fine mesh to it. I gather in 2 large 20 gallon totes and sift as I fill them. I use 2 kiddy pools from the dollar store to dry the dirt before waxing. I add 1 gallon of sand to 5 gallons same as Zimmer. If the dirt/sand mix isn't completely dry it will dry as I heat it in the mixer. I normally do mine during a dry spell in August.
Glad ya liked it Zimmer.. Packs good don't it?

10-4 trappergbus! I was hesitant with adding in the sand (1 Gal. per 5) but went ahead last season and glad I did. Yes, INO it packs better. IMO the type of soil you use is absolutely critical to the consistency of the end product. Here in S.E. PA. I have a choice between light loamy top soil and heavier shale dirt - I use the heavier soil and void of all plant material. During processing my dirt is kept in 5 Gal. buckets w/o the lids - both when its wet and after its been dried - during processing and while it's stored ALL of my trap bedding (peat and waxed dirt) is NEVER exposed to any foreign odors and stored in a wood shed away from garage and barn. 3 yrs ago I stored peat in 30 Gal. galvanized trash cans in my barn - I have horses and there's usually a manure smell - also faint petroleum odor from the tractors. As a result I had digging problems - lasted about 2 wks until I had enough and started over w/ new fresh peat - digger problems stopped immediately.

Zimmer, you brought up a few good points in this last post about storage. I personally have no other option than to store in my garage. But understand that my garage is a man cave, and not where I keep vehicles and/or gas any longer. Of course there are smells there, as with anywhere else. Especially a skunk smell that I just can't seal up. That stuffs some potent stuff.

I'm buying a plastic food grade 55 gal drum today which has a lid and ring to it. Would that be sufficient to safely store my waxed dirt in to keep it from foreign scents, etc...?

I store mine in plastic 32 gallon trash cans with lids. Set on 1x2s to keep the container off the ground or cement, and leave the lids loose so it can breath so any condensation can evaporate, to inhibit mold. I store in my garage/man cave/trap shed. No gas allowed.

Thanks Trapper, that's what I wanted to know. So definitely making sure that it can breathe is key.

Yes sir, you don't want trapped moisture.. I lost 50 gallons due to mold 5 years ago.. Thanks to Yoteguts I won't do that again.. It can be stored outside under an overhang but you really need to keep an eye on moisture of any kind..

As a new guy, I'm now getting intimidated by this. It's do this, don't do that, watch out for this, but while you're doing that watch out for that.

I mean buying 10 lbs of wax and hopefully getting dirt fairly cheap will far outweigh the cost of $40/5 gallon bucket that my local guy sells it for.

Get online to get the 40 percent off Hobby lobby coupon. 16 and change for a 10 pound block. It goes further than the flake too.. I get over 200 gallons with 90 pounds off wax.

The 40% coupon cannot be used on sale items, only regular priced items.

Correct, one item per day.

trappergbus speaks truth about trapped moisture. TheBig1; the learning is why many of us stick with trapping. I've trapped on and off for more than 40 yrs - learned more in the past 8 than the entire previous 32. I'm still learning. As for advise, I say listen, apply, and learn. Compared to back in the day the learning curve is a fraction of what it used to be...I like the advise but I love taking the advise, working it out through experience.


Regarding storing dirt/bedding; call me paranoid but I have to have circulating fresh air - no odors of any sort. IMO chancing any kind of odor in the waxed dirt...ultimately in the trap bed risks getting attention and that's exactly what I don't want - I want the K9's attention on the attractant.

Zimmer, how do you go about storing your dirt and yet keeping it dry and moisture free?

very simple, let the dry dirt breath - I put the lid on my 5 GAL. Lowes buckets but I don't snap them tight. Me storing dry dirt is temporary - I want to process into waxed dirt ASAP - once waxed it goes back into the buckets and stored in my wood shed...again, lids loose on buckets. I've followed this process for yrs and it works for me

Thanks Zimmer, I'll give it a try. I don't have very many traps so I might only do 20 to 30 gallons of dirt.

If I were to store it in a 30 gallon garbage can instead of 5 gallon buckets, would I want to do anything different? Or should you not store in that fashion?

You want the container full so if your not making 30 gallons store in 5 gallon buckets filled. Your not paranoid Zimm, if that's' what gives you confidence don't change.. Your correct, you want ALL the focus on the attraction. I've stored both ways inside and out away from any odors. never noticed a difference. I get more attention to the trap bed when I uses fresh dug dirt at the set..

I'll just buy some extra buckets for this year and do it that way. It's easier to just throw a bucket into the back of your truck than it is to fill the bucket first.

Another stupid question. Should I wash the buckets with baking soda after I buy them and before I place the dirt in them?

I do, who knows what stuff they were exposed to LOL...

LOL Ok. I know that these are tedious questions but there's so much to know. This is an example, there's so much to know and so many little details such as washing the bucket first with baking soda just to throw dirt into the bucket.

Confidence is a big deal..

This is one of the keys to being good at what ever you do in life

My only caveat about things is not having been taught something. Once I see someone do something, or have someone instruct me as I do it, or after I do something the first time there’s no looking back.

Don't overthink it, ounce you learn from others then you'll find you own system. Listen to the animals, just because someone says this is the best way it may not be for you. Make every set the best you can and on location. You will be fine..

I always try to prepare for "the problem child"...the skittish K9 that had a trap snap in its face - the old RF vixen who's sole purpose in life is to dig OR run every time she comes across fresh dirt. trappergbus hits the nail on the head saying "you'll need to find your own system"...this takes time. Example: for yrs I've been trying to come up with a good record keeping system. Pretty sure I've come up with a simple system that's fast and stays waterproof...need to finish the waterproof part. If I'm successful I'll gain priceless knowledge of my line. Same for trap bedding and set making equipment - it's ALWAYS stored away from lures and bait - I handle it with gloves...gloves never used with lure/bait - All of this stuff is stored in my woodshed, and when I'm using it is always separate from smells whether its in the truck or 4-wheeler...I have a system and I follow it...it's now natural and I don't spend a lot of time thinking about it...I just do it.

For the last 3 yrs, I have used straight waxed sand. Traps bed great and packs like a dream. I live in an area where sand is in unlimited supply. Also takes much less wax than dirt. One downfall is its heavy, but I trap off of a side by side. Store it in 35 gallon plastic trash cans away from any contaminants. I put in 5 gallon buckets for trapline.

If given the option, I would prefer waxed dirt over peat.
That said, I've used both successfully, including cedar fiber (O'Gorman's)
I like aluminum trash cans over plastic, although, plastic is far cheaper, (and absorbent) and can crack in extreme cold weather.
Bone dry pre-sifted dirt, granulated (or flake) wax and a cement mixer with a propane torch is 'my' preferred method of making a lot of product quickly and easily.
If you have the access, a 'lean to' type open(one sided) barn is preferred to store your dry dirt in.
The same style many farmers use to store loose grain with a concrete floor.
As long as you can keep the rain and snow out, it will keep and one can back a pick up truck right up to the edge to load up as needed.
Dried grass is also stored easily in that manner. I use it quite often to cover traps.

Is the cedar fiber comparable to fine pine needles? Does it absorb any water?

No, it's much finer.
It is, to my understanding, used in the 'oil industry' for compaction.
It is very dry and is used with glycol thinned with urine.
I haven't ever noticed it absorbing water, although, nothing is 100 % all the time.

Interesting, thanks.

Something to think about. Randy Smith mixes urine 50/50 with glycerine. During and after setting, he squirts a thin line of this mix into and over his sets. The urine smell has to outweigh any odor the dirt might hold. Randy’s Video: Combines and Coyotes shows his catch and it’s obvious the coyotes don’t seem to think there’s anything wrong with this approach. You may be over thinking the odor in waxed dirt thing

I don’t mean to beat a dead horse but this is my first time making it.

I sifted and dried 20 gallons yesterday only to find out that it yielded 12 gallon. Although this is something that I should’ve expected I didn’t even give it a thought. It was certainly surprising to me to say the least. I’m only going to try the 15 gallons for my first time and season. I just hope that I get it right and I also hope that I use it and don’t hoard it.

My sand is drying right now. I’m hoping that a thunderstorm doesn’t pop up while I’m gone.

Now to just get some wax.

When you make the first batch put some in a plastic cup and pour water on top to make puddle, then place that in the freezer over night. if the puddle is froze on top then you gold. If it is gone then add more wax to the next batch. I like to overwax so it holds its shape when squeezed but falls apart when touched. Make more than you think you'll need so you won't use it sparingly. All parts of the trap must be surrounded or its a mute point.

If you have anymore questions feel free to send a PM..

Thanks GBus, I’ll do just that. That’s an ingenious idea

So if you add one gallon of sand to 5 gallons of dirt; how much wax would that require approximately? This year will be my 2nd attempt at making wax dirt, and im using the solar method. Last year i scorched the wax heating it on the stove top, resulting in odor, resulting in avoidance or digging. Lesson learned. Also last year i used wax from Michaels, no Hobby Lobbys here, this year im using flake wax from a trapping supply co.
Sure need waxed dirt here if you want to keep traps functioning into freeze up and bad weather.

Start with 3/4 cup per gallon, a lot depends on your dirt type. More sand less wax. Then adjust from there.

Thanks for that trapperbgus. I noticed while beaver trapping early this year a major flood had deposited tons of beautiful sandy loam along the river bank. Thatll be where im headed.

I was thinking about just throwing a pound per gallon in, would that be a fair assessment? I’ve heard others say that. Again, I’m only making 15 gallons total which are 4 gallons of dirt and one gallon of sand each.

should be good.

Try using the oven , middle rack, set around 150* (wax melts around 130*) and stir often. A stove top will tend to get to hot on the bottom and scorch as you found out.

THEBIG1, stop up the house and I will show you a very simple bedding method with peat good year round. Just giving you an offer.

Thanks Fox, I may just do that.

just finished putting up my waxed dirt - great weather for putting up waxed dirt but boy was it hot...drank lots of Gatorade and water!! Used the solar method again this yr. and will consider the cement mixer/torch method for next yr. I must be getting old!