Anchor attachment

I am wanting to set up my traps to where I can use disposable earth anchors or use my super stake anchors . What is working for you any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I use a 3/16 quick link.

6 gauge j-hook through the end swivel.

Do you leave the swivel attached to the trap and use a quick link between the swivel and anchor. What do you use on the chain end to attach to the quick link , and the j hook is large enough to attach to the quick link.

I have some where I put the quick link through the swivel body or put it through a chain link after the j hook.

Many configurations will work, here is a simple one.
The j h00k at trap, attach 4-6" chain there
then a swivel
then 4-6" chain
then another swivel
then to your cable stake

all with j hooks

Thanks have had a few times that I needed to change a trap out and did not want to have to pull the anchor up or wanted to use a different type of anchor

I use 1/4"quick links to attach the terminal swivel to the anchor.I also use the quick link to attach a long chain and drag if the situation calls for it.Always tool tighten the quick links.

If your traps are base plated attach swivel two base plate d ring then attach chain to that swivel, at end of chain attach another swivel, then attach stake cable to that swivel

I use j hooks to attach the last swivel to the cable earth anchor. That makes it more difficult to steal, if you have a problem with that.

Here are a few of your options directly to J hook need to carry J Hook tool to change trap or cable cutters and drive another stake, Split ring easy to change trap but several have reported having ring fail and lost trap and animal and quick link need small set of pliers to swap out trap. As far as trap thieves go if they want it they will get it.

Thanks for the pics clears up a lot of questions from what I have seen think quick links are for me.

No Problem I learn a lot more seeing a picture. No matter what you use good swivels are a must the pics show how I set it up MB crunch proof 3 links number 3 machine chain, swivel, chain and swivel.

This is how I use the quick link.There is no need for a J hook on the end if the quick link is used.Notice the direction of the Crunch Proof.

Thanks for pics,the j hook holds the swivel closed on one end . I noticed on your cable loops the insert I forget what it is called think it was called a thimble ? this is the first time I have seen it used on trap attachments.

Yes,it's a cable thimble,and stainless.My anchors are reused so I was trying to make them a little more durable.It adds to some fumbling when assembling the anchor but does keep the loop from elongating when pulling.I have wolves so I only use the anchors with thimbles when I set for them.It distributes the strain over a larger area and eliminates wear on that cable end.You don't need it for coyotes but I like them.

That's cool, Taxi. First time I've seen them on a trap rig. Got me thinkin'...

I have some tough ground clay with gravel hard as concrete looking for other options on staking,my traps are set up with super stakes was wondering which would be a better option in my ground I do have places where the super stakes do fine,in the clay driving them and pulling them are tough.

I use the J hook to add another swivel point at the end of the setup. Treed have you ever used a wolf fang anchor i8t one of the better stakes in hard clay. Don't really have the gravel in my area.

Have not that was going to be my next question , are you able to pull them and reuse them in clay?

There are many preferences on how to connect hardware. Try a few different connections to see what works best for you.

I like the versatility of being able to easily and securely switch my anchoring system between finned super stakes on chain, or a reusable cable stake with a chain top section, or a planned disposable cable stake, or a butterfly for double staking with rebar. The quick link makes this easy and a secure switch.

I prefer to use quick link exactly like Taximan does it, or to connect directly from straight link chain to the straight link chain. It depends upon if anything is damaged. I run all of my crunch proof swivels the same way for this purpose.

Even though it eliminates one swivel point, at the quick link connection I prefer one less J hook connector wherever possible - one less potential for failure. I might think differently if I welded my J hooks.

Also, for me, I don’t get good movement and swivel action squeezing a J hook around a quick link. And they then are impossible to remove without ruining the J hook and sometimes the quick link. Others may have different experiences. It looks like RHuff has that issue worked out in one of his photos.

I use cable thimbles when I plan on reusing something. Such as cable slides for beavers or heavy cable stakes with chain top section.

And I heartily agree to tool tighten every quick link. A wrench or pliers and a screwdriver lock them down.

Treed - after you work out your connection system, you may wish to experiment with pre-drilling for the various anchors and stakes. Taximan is the expert and got me hooked on it. I pre-drill in warm weather with long ship auger bits and cold weather frozen ground with long carbide masonry bits. It is easier and reduces aching wrist and shoulder joints. I get cheap ship auger bits at Harbor freight. For frozen ground It takes better quality to hold up so I use Bosch bits. All powered with a Milwaukee 18 volt cordless 1/2” variable speed reversible hammer drill. I use the same drill to power a 2” auger bit for dirt holes in warm weather and in frozen ground a 1” carbide bit to grind out trap beds. The side handle helps to control the torque and reduce strain.

I have seen where folks pre drill in ice but have never thought about drilling in clay will look into it, are you able to pull the wolf fangs , I have a cable hooked to the end of my super stakes for pulling them some times it works sometimes I am digging just looking into different options.

I use the finned super stakes on chain and deal with lots of clay. I too am a fan of pre drilling for them as I make the set. Also a fan of the retrieval cable. I run the Conner shock spring on all my canine traps and connect everything with the #6 J hooks that are not welded. Not dealing with anything bigger than eastern coyotes but do not reuse a J hook. If I open it, I replace it.

For me,very hard ground is time for stakes.They are easier to get in and far easier to pull.You can also predrill for them if you need to.I use stakes,anchors,extension chains,cables and long chains with drags.Whichever one I use,there is a specific reason why that spot calls for it.

Treed - it is effective to use a 2” auger bit to drill alongside the chain or cable to drill out or drill free the chained super stake. Sometimes pulling can be hard on gear in tough soil.

Thanks for all the info. a lot to adsorb have taken in all the suggestions and like many of you said it is going to be a matter of what works best for me . And I feel sure y'all will be hearing from me some more on here all is greatly appreciated.

1/4" quick snap (carabiner) connects trap chain to cable or drag chain.....if it's good enough for Clint Locklear, it'll be fine for lil ole me.

My dog has twisted off it's chain attached to a carabiner. I wouldn't trust one on the trapline.

Taximan how do you get the the thimbles in the Wolf Fangs?!

I agree with Quiet about the J hooks. They are one use only. If I open one it gets replaced. I wish that I could weld well enough to permanently weld some J hooks.

I also agree completely with Ditchdiver about the carabiners. The type and quality sold for trapping use is not sturdy or durable enough in my opinion. I need and want connections that will hold up 100% even in some extreme or unusual situation that can arise.

When pulling gear it is wise ro be cautious to not pull above J hooks and chain repair links. Pulling below them prevents worry about a strain failure. The J hooks come already welded on my finned super stakes on chain.

Several guys make good lever type pullers. I like pullers made by Tom Stalker and JC Connor. We are fortunate to have very skilled and talented people making very specialized hardware and tools for trapping.

X2

If you're running a couple dozen or so traps with plenty of time to do so then digging the anchors up for reuse is the way to go. Use chained superstakes attached with a 3/16" QL.

If you're running 100 plus traps: digging them up is a back-breaking option. Make 15" cable pogos with 2" washers. They're cheap enough to make...like 30 cents each. Attach with same QL. Cut them on pull day. Attach another on set day. Your back and your watch will love you for it.