End stops on 5/64"1x19 using bench swager

So I just got a bench swager to help provide some consistency and cut down on some of the snare building racket inside the house from pounding on ferrules and nuts.

Question is though when I crimp on a 5/64" end stop on 5/64" 1x19 using the smallest hole on the 5 hole swager I get the below picture for a crimp. Would you trust this for your end stop on a coyote snare? I have always used threaded nuts and have had issues with those slipping off like I mentioned earlier this year. The swager is the red bench one that is being sold by the trapping supply stores. I crimped it twice.

Use a double ferrule run cable through and back inside the other hole then crimp. 1x19 5/64 is slick and u can get pull outs with just a stop

I use that same cable for beaver snares. Even though beaver aint pulling like a coyote, after crimping I tap it a few licks with the hammer.

No. I use my swager for double ferrules and an Amberg swager with their BAD ferrules as the end stop. If you are worried about slippages rig a device that will break the snare. If the end pops off then you will know where the weakest point is. When I did this with the BAD crimped 3 times the annealed nut on the swivel end let go first. 2 crimps and the BAD broke the way it was supposed to. I would definitely test your setup, the stop doesn’t look like it is crimped enough. 5/64 1x19 just like yours. JMO. I only make snares for myself.

I would not trust that crimp at all. Hammer it and then cross punch is what I do and it works,

The swagers can be adjusted if yours is not closing all the way on the tip, by chance, adjust it so its closing as tight as possible. Still I'd test it to be sure.

Just checked and it is completely closing at the tip. I am going to make a short snare and check to see if it blows the end stop off or if my break aways open by using my skinning machine winch to pull on it with a loop tightened around a peice of steel tomorrow to simulate field conditions.

I prefer my 5" Navy surplus Wilton vise. It does all of my crimping. Plus it is quiet!

I do the same. Don’t trust a single stop on 1x19 cable

This guys got the idea.

I use an Amberg release ferrule for that end as well.

I also use a breakaway j-hook. Redundancy in breakaway devices isn’t a bad thing.

The snares I make and sell . Have had the F350 test

Fasten the tag end of the snare to a tree. The loop end gets put over a 3 1/2 PVC pipe cut off about 6" long.Each end of the PVC has 1/8" cable on it so that it will go over my trailer hitch.
I put the F350 in drive and go. The cable is the weakest component.( I use good Korean cable NOT all Korean cable is good cable--- I would like to imform you.)

To put on a end stop.
Useing a Double ferrule. Make a loop. Pull the loop trght. Now crimp the ferrule.

Can the snares you make or buy. Pass the F350 test ?

This is what Newt and the Blak spot mean

This is how I always do my end stops on wolf snares.

I use the same cable when making snares and I still pound my stops on. Knock on wood but have never had one slip off. I like the ways yours look Boco and Pinedoggin, they would be strong.

Well I hooked one up to the winch and the end blew off before the BAD even began to start opening. And my BADs break at 300 lbs tested by the NDGF. Looks like I'll be hammering on more of these threaded end stops I got from Schmitts that are compact. The double ferrules on a coyote snare just seem so large for an end stop.

I agree. I wouldn't want all that on the loop end of the snare. If the stop you got are like I'm thinking, you should be able to crush them on with the tip of your swagger. https://www.schmittent.com/mini-steel-cable-ends

That's what I got for cable ends. Gave your suggestion a try and it works good. Thanks. Now just because I like to test things I'll pull on one of these tomorrow with the skinning machine to make sure I'm crimping enough. I always worry I'm going to over crimp and splay the cable too much.

Appreciate all the advice from everyone else and setting me straight before I made up a bunch of snares with those other ends.

An arbor press is your friend when it comes to mini steel cable stops. A 1/2 ton will do it and they're less than $100 on grainger, I got one so I wouldn't wake my kid up while building snares at night. The bonus is you'll find other uses outside of trapping for it. I've also started soldering my cable ends which keeps you from getting poked and gives the end stop an obstacle to overcome in the unlikely event that it slips.

I don't use a double furl on my coyote snares I make either , I use 7x7 and mash on the small treaded end stop your taking about, just not a fan of the 1x19 for yotes in the 3/32. I was just posting the photo so you could see,

I don’t understand why it needs to be so strong?

It’s a coyote snare, doesn’t have to hold a water buffalo.

Buy yourself some Amberg or snare shop release ferrules and the appropriate swager for them, stop worry about it and roll on.

ND native I use the aluminum pound on stops they have really work well for me. The size is 5/64 and fit nice and pound down great. Maybe give them a try.

There's two different red bench swagers. There's the ARM one from Japan, and a different one. My ARM does a tight crimp on all sizes.

^^^ I wouldnt trust that at all.
I hammer all mine,have had bought snares with swager crimped ferrels that failed.
Cut them all off and hammered+cross punched-never had a fail.

When your selling to trappers experanced and beginers.
They catch a deer by the leg. The deer poops a end stop.
So now they bad mouth me . All over the internet and Face book.Saying that they lost their coyote.Because I did'nt put the end stops on right.

I DONT NEED THAT

I get that Newt.

I guess on the loop end at least, I’d rather have it Ford Taurus tough instead of F350 tough.

I go BIG

Nothing beats a swaged-on threaded mini steel end stop. And with swaging it isn't necessary to leave sharp cable ends extending beyond the stop. Swaging steel is, however, damaging to swage tool jaws.

After you crimp the stop like you have turn the stop perpendicular to the swagger and pinch it on the tip of the swagger and crush down on it but not to hard as you can overcrimp.

I like the BAD ferrules, use #180, 10' or longer extensions and barrel swivel for 12" loop, electric tape wammy

What locks are designed for S/J BAD?
Has anyone tested if a 90° on the Breakaway end ads or reduces #?