Trap Chain Setup

Is this too long? I’m wanting to set these up for a mixed species line.

I wouldnt say so, I think mine are just a touch shorter, but not much. My setup is a swivel at the trap, 3 links or #3 machine chain, midchain swivel, 3 links of chain, end chain swivel, then 18" of #2 machine chain to a super stake, everything welded

Looks good to me

Thanks fellas. After seeing the over-all length after adding the 9/16” washer, the JC Conner rod swivel and the mid-chain swivel I started second guessing my set up.

I’ll use a 3/16” quick link to make the connection to my anchor chain.

keep an eye on the chain. that twisted will fail after a lot of use. a small dog on a chain like that will always get loose eventually. Looks to be in good shape now but you need to check it often. same with your swivels. they will begin to open up after awhile if not welded. when one does replace the rivet rather than pinching it closed again.

Will do, thanks danny

Don't think you can ever go too long in chain for coyotes as long as you don't stake treats near stupid stuff like fences and saplings. You can go too short and risk stake jacking

I run a mixed line also and that is the same length I use with 3 crunch proof swivels. Never had a problem with yotes jacking it out. I use 13 to 15 inch cable stakes with wolf fangs

The system I use is one I've used for a couple seasons and I really like it. One crunch proof swivel at the base, 8" to 10" of US straight link chain, another crunch proof swivel on the end, then my earth anchor. It holds very well, they can't yank around so much that they can bend up your trap or hurt themselves, and they can't tear up as big of a catch circle while they are in the trap. I use it from skunks to 'yotes! Easy cheap, not has much hardware to conceal at the set...I love it!

I run crunch proof at base 3 links of #3 machine chain crunch proof swivel three more links of chain another crunch proof swivel attached to 18in. Chained wolf fang works well very heavy duty never had any issues.
Did the same set up on my fox traps just used #2 machine chain instead of #3.

It's good to hear all the differences, and similarities, in trap chain setup.

Exactly how I rig mine, with the exception of I run a super stake instead of a wolf fang

Y’all guys pound in the full 18”?

Depends on the soil conditions, if I'm in a tilled field with soft dirt I'll bury all 18", if I'm in rocky ground or hard ground I may only get it in 10-12", which is why I run chain on my anchor instead of cable, the chain will lay flat if I cant get all 18" in the ground, just makes the chain setup a bit longer. Works great for my area since I trap a mix of farms, mountain ground, and even some slate pits, very versatile

Same here, I can’t guarantee how deep I can get a stake driven. Except for a couple of farms I’ve been afraid to try the wolf fangs where I usually trap, too rocky.

I used a combination of super stakes and wolf fangs last season, and on some of my rocky farms where I had to really smack em to get em drove in, I played heck trying to get the fang driver back out, and then when I pulled them they were bent in the shape of a U, and I could tell from how they were bent that they bent when being driven in. From here on out super stakes only for me

I really like my super stakes but they still have their problems as well. Drive one down between two larger rocks and you'll have heck to pay getting it back out, but then that may be true for wolf fangs too.

I've run into that with super stakes, but I had a puller made at a local welding shop by a fellow trapper that hooks to the chain and can usually have them out of anywhere, once in a while though I'll get one thought enough that I'll snap the chain trying to pull it

I've learned to use longer chains in areas that badgers may be a concern. Traps on short chains may have the anchors (re-rod or earth anchors) dug out. Keeping them farther away from the anchor point may be beneficial.

I lost a Jake and two rebar stakes to a badger recently. I’ll find that sucker eventually.

Yep, I’ve lost a few anchors due to the s-hook opening so I started welding them. I’ve been questioning that decision because if I don’t weld them, I only loose the super stake. Danged if you do, danged if you don’t…

I weld everything on all mine, it's rare that I snap a chain pulling, usually it just bring up a basketball (or bigger) sized chunk of ground with it. I've given up very few anchor by welding every connection, plus helps to deter johnny sneakum

Looks good, I use the same setup.
Nothing better than a sterling swivel at base of trap.

Crossed stake or bullet stakes for me, and I use machine chain on all my traps. Not a fan of twin loop. Might be strong enough but binds and kinks when twisted and tangled.
I keep my chains short and use lots of swivels. Jacked stakes never an issue with crossed stakes or bullet stakes.
I am all about minimizing lunges and momentum. Long chain = longer distance to build up speed before hitting end of chain, need stout traps but the way coyotes throw their bodies around trying to escape you get full on shocks and full momentum on long chains. Test of equipment for sure.
Short chains, no chance to build up momentum or speed. Small catch circles, spins circles only no lunges, and I dont lose hardly any animals. Use short chains and lots of swivels. That's what I do anyway.
All of my predator traps are set up same way. Bridgers, B&Ls, Vics, coils, longs, montys, all of them. Even a few dukes.

If I didn't weld my s hooks I would seldom ever retrieve a super stake here. As is I figure on breaking one in ten welded s hooks.

Same thought that made me wonder if mine were too long. I think that if my chain were 4-6 inches longer there should probably be a shock spring in there. A coyote might bottom it out but maybe the spring will have slowed him down some before he hit the end.

Good trap, good hold you aren't loosing critters due to long chains. After that first lunge or two. They aren't doing it again. Short chain risks stake jacking and animals fighting trap much longer.

I used to be a short chain guy till I tried 18-24. No shock springs , no losses , more freedom on the remake. Seems they don't fight it as hard, sometimes theres not even a full blown circle. Burn circle is a lot more level, not near as much mounding. Short chains they never stop fighting. I learned that from the coyotes...and the guys out west with extended trap checks.

This is how I set up my #550's, I use super stakes with them.

trappergbus,
Do you consider anything under 18 inches a short chain? A 24 inch chain wouldn’t let a coyote build much steam before hitting the end.

rendezvous
Is that about 18 inches total length?

Lots of good ways to set these traps up and lots to think about.

Yes, total length is 18". It works well for me.

Under 12 would be short to me. Seems the yotes stop fighting at 18, 24 they just seem to walk around the circle. I know it seems off but in actual practice its different than what has been the accepted norm. Let the coyotes decide! Most the guys out west with extended checks use long chains, there's a good reason for that... As an added benefit you'll hold more coon too.

Consider a coyote front foot catch and what I call “jacking”. When in doubt longer is better.

Thanks trappergbus.

I took a JC Conner shock spring and added it after the mid-chain swivel similar to rendevous' pic. Total length came to just under 24 inches with four links of 2/0 twin loop chain. I think the shock spring will lessen the stress on both the twin loop chain and the j-hooks.

I'm not sure how I'll like this setup, I can see an issue getting the shock spring bedded in the rocky ground I trap in. I may go ahead and rig up 3 or 4 more just to give them a fair try.

Remember one thing with coyotes, if they detect a weakness when they attack the chain setup with their mouth they will exploit it till it fails. If it was me I'd replace the twin loop with machine chain. Much stronger and easier to work with when bedding. I've never felt the need for shock springs after over 1,000 coyotes..

They aint breaking my stuff ! LoL # 7 chain and 5/16 quick length

I keep waffling over my decision to keep the twin loop. The installation of the shock springs is a direct result of comments I’ve heard & read regarding twin loop and welding vs. not welding j-hooks and s-hooks. I feel pretty good with that trap chain but as I mentioned I think bedding will be a problem.

I have more than enough #2 welded machine chain to replace the twin loop with. Thankfully I’ve got a little time before I start using these traps, lol.

One thing I think would be helpful is some pics of twin loop chain that has or is very near failure. I’ll be surprised if anyone posts any good pics, NOT because it hasn’t happened, but because I think folks quit using twin loop before it became so convenient to take pictures.

The top trap is unmodified, the middle trap is the same as I showed in my opening post and then the shock spring added.

Looks like the chain of my swing set! LoL!

bed a trap with twin loop then with machine chain then you'll see why no one has pics of twin loop lol.. after 55 years of land trapin I use JC Conners rod swivel at the D ring then 3 links off machine chain then a crunch proof in line then 12 more inches off machine chain to the anchor point. The very first thing I replaced when coyotes first appeared here was the twin loop...Then the anchoring system. Even my water traps and body grips have machine chain and lots of swivels..

Personally I run long chains on all my traps. Long asin 6 feet of number 2 American chain

A lot of my trapping is done in woods, not farmfields. If there isn’t a tree to wrap the chain around nearby, I take a decent size log and use it as a drag. Multiple swivel points in a long chain of course most near the trap, I have no issues

I don’t like to screw with rebar, and I walk, so I don’t have a 4wheeler to pull earth anchor so out with

I like mine a bit longer than that if I’m staking with super stakes. Otherwise I use looong chains. No shorter than 8 feet, up to 12. I use lots of drags, sometimes I’ll wire a trap right to a juniper, or a big rock, big pine bough, whatever’s handy really.

If you want to set with a shorter chain, just stake it through the middle swivel.. bury the extra under the trap

Twin loops are harder to bed, more susceptible to bending and not as strong, but they will hold coyotes fine. Just gotta check them after the catch. They used to come on coyote traps (maybe still do?). They were tested on them and were sufficient. Where I trap there are wolves, bears, and cougars. I have had traps break with jaws popped and such, but never a chain failure. If I was struggling to afford trapping, I’d not worry about the stock chain. Adding a swivel would be a priority.

I do change my traps over to USA made welded link chain when I have time, but I have used traps for coyote with stock twin loop chain without issues. I use 10-12” chain setups with pogos or double rebar. I add an extra swivel in the middle. When I use clogs or rocks, I use 6’ chain with swivel every 2 feet or so.

Why not just make the “chain” totally out of swivels?

Clint Locklear said he’d buy it if they made em all swivels. I really like what Kim Harris did with his “sprivels.”

Anyone have a pic of what you do with all that extra chain and shock spring? I have 18” super stakes and rarely pound it all in and have to dig a little deeper bed just to put it in the bottom. Can’t imagine all that and a shock spring too.

WB, I run a few traps that are probably 18” with shock spring. I don’t use them in clay if I can help it. I’ll normally dig out my regular bed, place the shock spring where my lose jaw will be, and hammer it all into the ground

Thanks

I stake off to the rear. Between the trap and my knee. No chain or shock spring goes under the trap. Why would anyone want to put that under the trap and make the bed more unstable. I can see putting the shock spring under the loose jaw but I don't even do that. My chains vary a little from 12" to 18".

It depends on how u dig your trap bed. I put mine under the trap but the trap doesn't touch the chain or the bed where the chain is at. If your worried about it just a few whacks with the hammer and chain is beat down in the dirt.

Here with all the winter rains we get the more or deeper the trap bed is disturbed the worse it turns to pure mush. I try to disturb only the area for the trap and the needed depth.

I'm a long chain guy. I run 24 to 30 inches of straight link chain with 3 swivels. I use rebar stakes, don't have any trouble with jacking the stakes out