BodyGrip Trap dye

Anyone logwood dye bgs? Wax or no wax?? I usually just spraypaint them but am looking to try something different.

Wax can make them a real touchy

I have, normally use alder bark, but I've used logwood dye and I've used walnut hulls. I've also painted them. Any of them work fine, use your preference. I've waxed them before also, and that I highly don't recommend, touchy, touchy, touchy lots of premature firing problems. I wax all my footholds usually, but not bodygrips, even after scraping wax off the trigger, dog, and center of the bar where the trigger sets I've had problems.

Make sure your triggers fire crisp-not necessarily hard but crisp.
Then dye and wax them.Important to wax properly in smoking hot wax hotter than 212f.
They will fire very fast and go all at once.but if done right not dangerous.
If you fiddle with and file triggers to fire easy before waxing you will have problems.

I dye or paint mine. Last year I dyed them in boiled logwood powder.

The thing about dye Is It won't protect the trap from rusting once It's caught a few critters. But painted traps will last for years without rusting.

I've only used logwood dye a time or two. But using alder bark I would have said the exact opposite. In fact I typed it out in the post above and then deleted it because I was trying not to be rambling. I've painted new bodygrips until they got the paint dinged and chipped up on them, then switched to dye because it is more durable. I've seen a lot more paint chipped and peeled from critters fighting a trap, dye on the other hand is a part of the surface steel it is an actual chemical reaction with oxidesed steel (why you can't dye new shiny traps).

Formula One

Never had much trap paint damage on BGs never had a animal chew on a BG . Latex paint is fairly soft and doesn't chip that easy.
My traps still rusted when I used F1.

x2 stuff is tough!

When traps are blackened with tag alder every year or two it wont come off.

Ferric oxide (red/orange rust) on steel can be tough on traps. Yes I dye the BG's in a substance to stop the chemical process of the steel rusting (I use or have used many organic forms of tannic acid - Logwood, Walnut, Hemlock, Sumac, Maple etc., etc.,) Then its up to the individual if they want a coating to preserve that finish. (some folks call it black rust similar to the bluing on a gun barrel). Paint, wax (both organic and inorganic) and coal tar (the petroleum dips) are real common final coat additives but I have found that you should neutralize the black finish with soda or lime prior to the paint, wax, or dip coating as most of the dyes I mentioned are acidic. The addition of oxygen and moisture (field use) can continue the chemical process UNDER that final coat and proceed to red rust if not buffered with the soda. I like the Petroleum dips on BG's as it adds some lubrication but I paint the foot traps with a cheap enamel house paint or if I get some "garage sale" rustoleum I will use it. My take.......................... the mike .

This is the truth, in my area of expience!

I have dyed the body grippers, but never waxed them. I also dip them in the cold dips but then I file the dogs and the frame where the trigger mechanism sits. Actually like the dye only best as traps are colored, protected and not touchy.

Bryce

Boiled in logwood crystals, then put into the woods will leave you with black hands, stained pelts, and soon-to-be rusty traps.
Logwood is simply a surface coating, or "dye".

You folks that use rust oleum and a solvent 50-50, do you have to file/ sand the body grip trigger areas and dogs to make them stay set?