School me on snares

I can't use them here in Oklahoma but I can just north in Kansas.
I know next to nothing about them and all the different lengths and locking devices are confusing. Thinking coyotes where they are going under barbed wire fences .

Snares are a good tool but they do have their place. You will have to check the laws in Kansas to see if you can use a locking snare or a cable restraint where the lock on the snare is a locking lock or a lock that does not lock. Or if you can have entanglement or not. That's first. Then you can decide what to use after that. Like traps everyone has a preference on what they like to use. Lock style, cable style, length and cable size. Ask questions like you are doing but I would say find out what you can use. Then it will be easier for everyone on here to help point you in the right direction. A lot of good experience on this sight.

You can attach them to a slide wire (like the drawing) to keep the coyotes out of the fence after being caught or you can anchor them right to the fence. Be sure to leave the bottom of the snare at least 2" off the ground to allow them to get their feet under the loop. Set the loop in the center of the opening. Use a loop that is around 8-10". It doesn't matter if the top of the loop is above the bottom wire some.



Old video I made...

No specific regs on snares in Kansas . Can't set them within 50' of a public road or within 5' of a fence bordering a public road .

That makes things a lot easier. Fence crossing are a good place to catch canines but you do risk the chance of catching quality fur. ADC has good advice. 5/64 or 3/32 is the size of cable most are using. You will get different opinions on 7x7 cable or 1x19. I use 5\64 1x19 on 90% of my snares and use sure locks. I haven't tried any other type of locks. These have just worked for me for years so why change.

Thanks for sharing !

What length should I get , or what lengths are recommended for certain circumstances ? I see them from 5' to 9' ?

You can use any kind of lock here. Be careful under fences, as our deer are more likely to go under than over, for some reason.

Go look at any highway fence with a top row of barbwire and see how many deer have been hung up trying to jump them.

Actual snare i prefer not much more that 5' and thats for 14" inch loop trail snares. Most of my snares are less than 4'. Length of extension is going to depend on usage short extensions for use under fences, kill poles and cable restraints. Longer extensions for entanglement.

Snare length all depends the area you are in. I build my own snares so that helps. I have snares from 3ft - 7ft. I use the 7 footers quite often.

Barbed wire ( like most ) , fences are excellent places to catch animals, yet not the best place to have one tangle up.
Having a dead animal dangling from a fence is not a good look for us trappers, to those who are not trappers and it is most certainly a good way to damage a pelt.

Catch a red fox in a snare on a barbed wire fence, and it will cut the animal to pieces by the time it chokes out, if in fact it ever does.
A coyote can and will destroy an older fence, often breaking the wire strands , which end up, having to be repaired.
There are far better places to snare animals. . .

But, let's say you want to set up a snare at a bottle neck or crawl under or even where an animal jumps through the ( usually woven wire ) fence.
A lot can be done by using either a long cable tie off, or my personal favorite, a 1/8th inch cable slider, which gets the captured animal away from the fence altogether.
I custom make mine between 12 and 25 feet long and if needed, even longer.
The slider is staked taunt at both ends.
The animal, once snared takes a one way trip to the end where it remains and entanglement, if you should choose, can be created by crossing rebar rods in the form of an 'X '.

Much can be done with some imagination and a little effort !

J S !!!

Great Info, much appreciated !