Heavy duty driver?

I've seen it on a couple of YouTube videos. Who makes them. It's a very heavy duty Wolfgang driver with a huge knob to hammer with a cable handle.

Probably Freedom Brand I would guess ,you can get them a F&T

My bad not the one I was thinking about.

The new one with the red loop band on it?

For the above they are called the Hammer Down Driver hammerdowndrivers@gmail.com

That's the one thanks

I welded mine up,no need to spend money at any trapping shop when you have a welder and metal lying around.

Everyone always says this…curious if you stole the welder or it was given to you? If neither then you spent money. The metal lying around didn’t drop from the sky, so that had to have been money spent as well. All these comments of “saving money” by doing it yourself means you already spent the money and might as well recoup some by doing it yourself.

You should check out Tom Stalker's drivers. Toughest driver I have ever gotten my hands on...

Hexagonal steel rod will out last any round stock driver. But any driver can last a long time, simply some people drive nails straight and some pound the crap out of them hoping they go straight haha!

OK so I bought the welder and steel for another project,so why can't I save money on s@ h for the store? Why should I pay money on something I can build .

I agree with Wanna Be. Because = I whats my time worth? Min 25 dollars an hour cash. So i just let = The Hammer build me some drivers and mail them to me

Im still usiing my original super staje driver from 10+ years ago. All ot casr contended with is frozen clay and the odd rock or tree root. Just busted the original cross bar last week.

When you ALREADY OWN a welder and use it for other jobs and use your scrap from other jobs you VERY MUCH are saving money!!! It is not like you buy a welder everytime you need it for a job!!!!!

Gus’s the way you said it was that you’d just build your own instead of paying someone which is great. It was the same with everyone offering “cheap” advice to trappers. But unless you already spent money on all that stuff, then you’re better off buying it. Same with trap mods and everything else, if you already have everything needed and have plenty of spare time, then yeah it makes sense. Otherwise just buy the good stuff.
With that said, I bought the nicer drivers off MTP and love them. In fact I used the elcheapo that came with the kit and it lasted 3 years before being bent so much it wasn’t fun anymore. Still have it just in case I lose the other two, lol.
I tend to use stuff I buy until it absolutely can’t be used or repaired any longer. Guess that’s why I’m still driving a 2000 model truck with almost 452K miles, lol.

Roofbolter…duh, lol. That would make sense wouldn’t it.

I have alot of steel just lying around in my pole barn. And that's not the only thing I made setters for the 330 and setters for the Bridger #5 4 coil. I just like to save money that's all.

There's a guy on here that does 'custom' work and that's where I got mine over a decade ago.
It's stainless and 3 foot long, with a welded knob (for hammering) and a T-handle.
I should tell you I use a long handled 8 lb sledge to drive them with and can not only drive it with amazing speed, but also back it out using a technique I developed.
I use Wolf Fangs on both traps and trail snares

I got a driver from hammer (a member on this site)
Crowbar, hexagon steel, standard lengths or custom lengths

Get the hexagonal driver from hammer. I have a bunch of them, I think they are the 3/4 ones.

There is not a round driver on the market that will hold up in my soil conditions. I have tried all listed here. Most guys can make a round driver last a long time because their soil isn't that bad or they don't put in too many sets

I use a 36” stainless wolf fang driver built by lee steinmeyer, and I really like it. I’ve been using it for 3 or 4 years. Where I trap, I can usually push it in by leaning on it. I use a 4lb maul when it’s stubborn. I spin and lift the handle when I’m ready to pull the driver.

It’s very important that the tip doesn’t deform, because with wolf fangs you don’t want a driver that won’t let go after hammering.


I do like the looks and mentioning of strength of the hexagonal ones posted on this thread.

I use super stakes for now and if mine hint at mushrooming I’ll drop by the shop and grind it down. Its really time consuming driving that anchor down and go pull up the driver on what should be a two finger pull only to realize your stake is in the anchor and not coming up with ease, lol.

That's what the tractor in the back of this picture is for

WB,
When you put that superstake drive to the bench grinder for repair.....grind the entire end down like a pencil sharpener does a pencil.....it will last a LOT longer b4 the end mushrooms and sticks on the anchor.

Yeah, learned that after the second time, lol. It always takes a lesson or two to learn.

I carry a file in my bucket for a quick touch up in the field if needed.

Southern snares makes one I've used it three seasons still going strong. I only run about 18 or 20 coyote traps a year though, plus remakes.

I just ordered one of these myself. I have been buying a new one every year. I’m hoping it will do good. Talked to the family that makes them and they seem like good people.

I don't think hammer is doing drivers at the moment. You'll have to PM him and ask.

Used the hammer down driver for the first time yesterday, 11 sets in the ground and can’t tell I put a scratch on the head of the driver. Hoping to have around 100 sets out in the next few days so will know more then.

Update on the driver. Driver has taking a beating and not showing much wear. The 2 negatives I have are the cable handle just gets in the way and it needs a bigger head to aid in pulling it back out of the ground.

First thing I thought when I saw that cable handle was that it looked like it would just get in the way, I was wondering if there was some really cool secret function I couldn’t think of for it.

Turd, you aren't missing anything, it is another feature that will catch more trappers than coyotes.

Most straks drivers the crossbars get knocked off them by errant hammer strikes. Little bit harder to bust a cable handle. Plus it would be easier to clip it to your trapping bag so it won't bounce out. Also the red handle would stick out if you did lose it.

I'm having trouble with the Fangs sticking on my Hammer Down driver. They are wanting to come back out with the driver. Will try grinding a little on it. The head is holding up great.

I only set 2 traps today. Both 12 inch cable Wolf Fangs. It got me thinking? How many guys use a driver more than me ? I guess I set about 2000 traps a year. So on a average of about 12 hits with a 3 & 1/2 lbs hammer thats about 24000 hits a year. I do this = year round. Sometimes = I break out the = 6 lbs hammer. SO I am going to go a head and say it. NO ONE out there that makes drivers can build ME a driver that will last 1 full year ! NO ONE. Its just not possible. I have used about every driver made by man. From supper custom to the ones made by trapping supply places NO ONE has survived a year with me! But. 2 people both on Tman have come close Josh = Rednecktrapper. Built me one that lasted 8 solid months then head broke off. Next is = The Hammer. Got 1 from = The Hammer last March. 10 months. 1 cross bar is broke off. Last month. But its still going strong. May break tomorrow? It could. But it was well worth the money. After 35 years of coyote trapping. I can say = The Hammer = is the 1 st person to build me a driver that MIGHT make a year ! Just food for thought

I agree steel traps, no driver is going to last a lifetime, some just last better than others. The hammer's drivers last longer than any other I have used. Hex stock in general has lasted much longer, I have terrible luck with turning round stock drivers into bananas

Yep. Hex stock is doing well. I checked years ago. With a high end gunsmith He new metal. Was told = yes can take latte and turn down a piece of ? May have been like what you drill for oil bit? Anyway. IT would be harder than the Eastwing hammer. Down side ways. You would have to wear googles and expense to turn down Even in his 100000 dollar latte

When its 29 degrees with 14 mph. You make those remakes quickly! LoL!!! Wipe the blood of that new MJ 600 Sterling and stick it in the ground and keep rolling!

Thanks Buddy I appreciate that and appreciate you putting my stuff to the real test in many soil types if she breaks tomorrow you know I always got extra waiting for you! Hope Texas is treating you well heck I already know your already treating them coyotes real nice hahaha!

So I have been using this driver for a little bit now but I really like it. Super tough. I love the red hose handle. It makes pulling the driver loose from the earth anchor a breeze.

I brought 3 WF drivers with to Oklahoma this year and they all lasted about a week and a half. Borrowed my buddies backup driver he got from Tom at Stalker Fabrications and that thing was beautiful. Came out of the ground every time and left the anchors in the ground each time. Got back home and called Tom and ordered 2.

I bet he also Bubble welds the Jaws as well instead of sending them out. I bet he also uses that welder on a lot of stuff. Not a week goes by I don't use mine. Heck you should hear my Hemi with the Exhaust I welded on it. Also the Rack to haul my John Boat as well as the Anchors I welded up for my John Boat. You should see the rack I welded up for my four Wheeler to hold the gear for both Hunting and Trapping. You should see the Tack Racks I welded out of old Horse shoes for our Horse Tack. Actually I think every one should have a welder and if need be Learn how to weld.

Never welded…….get by without it thus far.

Pre-drilling will GREATLY improve your drivers life. (Not to mention save a lot of wear and tear on YOU).

Fall/winter trapping I have yet to find a driver that would last me a month back before I pre-drilled my holes. Most run of the mill supply house drivers wouldn’t make a day.

Now I can get a solid 4-6 months out of (a good) one.

Took me a few years to finally start pre-drilling. I'm a little slow to change...but pre-drilling is THE way to go.

Pre-drilling sounds like a way to prematurely ruin a drill. Based on prices, I’m better off buying drivers.

What size and style of bit to predrill?

This one

Just pre drill the hole. 19.95 for a = 1 inch Wood Boring bit at = Harbor Freight. I drill thousands of holes a year. This bit is 3/4 inch now BUT 8 months old. Boy trappers are cheap!!!!LoL!

This 1

Figure $30 minimum for a good driver.

If I’m burning up a driver every month or two, that’s $180-$360 a year.

Can get a dewalt rotary hammer for around $225-250 (mines been going strong 7 years now and a LOT of sets).

Not to mention how much it’s saved my shoulder and back. So no chiropractor bills either!

In my country, the difference in pre-drilling and not is 15-25 whacks or 50+.

WB,
You sound like me...about 2 years ago.....lol

If you keep trapping...you'll come over to the "easier" side soon.

I bought the same bit that ST uses above....1" bit.

I should've went to this much sooner.

I can push the anchor in about halfway...only takes about 6 or 8 moderate hammer hits to put it down to 15".

Tried the bit he showed. About broke my wrist, lol. It will go in, but you have to put the drill in reverse to get it out. Is that the way it’s supposed to work?
And when that joker catches, it’s caught!

Yes. It has to go in reverse. We used it the otherday in a dry creek bed. Will drill threw small rock. Very small rock ? It often pushes to the side when drilling. Thats why ——- Wood boring bit. Not ——— masonry bit

Must be your drill. I'm not having that issue.

I was due for another drill as my 18v Dewalt batteries were worn out. So, I bought a Kobalt 24v hammer drill.

The "hammer" feature may be the trick. Plus, the Kobalt and most modern drills, have a torque adjustment that prevents that wrist jolt.

Using a 20v hammer drill.

I have a Stalker driver. Beat the crap out of it and still looks new.