Preparing New Traps for Beaver Sets

I’m new to the forum and completely green to trapping. I’ve been trying to work on removing some nuisance beavers over the past month by hunting them. So far I’ve only killed a male and a female. I don’t know how many there are. I’ve located a lodge and a run that is a decent distance from the lodge that I am confident is active. I have a new (and greasy) Duke 330 conibear that I intend to place in a pinch point on this run. However, I’m not quite sure of all of the appropriate steps to take before placing my trap in the water. I’ve searched active threads and the archives and a lot of the information seems to cater to members with some sort of working knowledge of traps and trapping. I’ve watched a number of YouTube videos and I’m pretty familiar with how to set the conibear traps and how to use a rope to get myself out in the even I get an arm caught in one. But there are still things I don’t quite understand.

So far from what I’ve read here:

1) I need to remove the grease from the traps then boil them. I can use engine degreaser or oven cleaner to remove it. Then I need to rinse it thoroughly. Some recommend boiling after this. Why boil? I’m not set up to boil traps outdoors just yet. From what I gather, the grease is to be removed so that the paint or dye sticks when painting or dipping the traps. It also seems that allowing a coat of rust to form after cleaning a new trap is desirable. Why is a coat of rust desirable on a new trap? Aren’t we to do what we can to slow down the oxidation of metal traps?

2) I’ve read that I shouldn’t wax body grip traps. I guess waxed surfaces can cause the trap to trigger easily when wet. Do I understand this correctly?

3) After the traps have formed a light coat of rust then they are to be dipped/dyed. As I understand it, dye helps to camouflage the trap and protect against further rusting. It also prevents the trap from transferring rust to the pelt. My question is, isn’t the rust that already started forming before dipping the trap going to continue below the layer of dip? Am I missing something here? Does the rust act as some sort of primer?

Some members don’t seem to dip their traps in dye. I’ve read that some prefer a paint/acetone mix. Others use an older method of dipping in a fuel-based dye mixture. Then there are those that use Rustoleum or spray paint. I read that one member used some sort of expensive automotive rust inhibitor that he brushed on some of his traps. It seems that once the traps have been cleaned they should be ready to paint or dye. I decided to start with some Dakotaline Trap and Snare Dye. I’ll likely have a can by next week.

To all who have read this rather long post, thank you. If you can provide links to threads that address my specific questions I’d like to read them. I’m pretty sure some of you get tired of new people coming and asking the same questions over and over. I’m still learning to navigate the forums. Thanks in advance to all who contribute links and solutions based upon their trapping experience.

I'd just set them as is...let the water and chemicals in it clean them for you...Then spray them or dip them.

This, don't over think things.

I'm of two minds.

Simple, set as is and get around to dip/paint once weather takes its toll.

Perfectionist, drop into a tub with a can of lye and five gallons water to strip grease. Wash and drop into a tub with phosphoric floor stripper to etch for better paint adhesion. Neutralize with soda then dip in thinned rustoleum.

Either way all my traps get tuned before use. IMO, a well tuned trap is more priority than a well dipped one.

Dip or dye really require a little rust to adhere to but you could just clean the oil off with thinner or gas and a rag and spray paint.

Keep it simple. Warm water with Dawn, pressure wash, and hang to dry. Dip in rusty metal primer and acetone, hang and let dry. Do a second coat, and call it good. This is how I do all of my traps, land or water, leg hold or body grip. I'm starting to stay away from dye and wax. My two reasons are wax holds odors, and I have a lot invested in my traps to let them turn into a pile of rust like many do.

Like warrior said, "a well tuned trap is more priority than a well dipped one." Spend the time with each trap to make sure it is tuned.

Good advice.

A lot of good information given. You would be amazed how fast the water you set the trap in takes anything off the trap. Set them and when you're done maybe dye them or spray paint them.

How many traps are you preparing?
If it is just a few, this is what I would do.
It certainly in not the only way to do the job and certainly not the gospel.

Buy some some cleaner from Wal Mart that will clean grease etc.,, or buy some Dawn dish soap.
Wash the traps. Let them dry. Spray paint with a primer. Call that good or spray them with a light brown.

I just hate handling greasy traps. Then you have greasy hands all day. It does not matter except
I hate grease and oil. Grease and oil gives old school trappers the monkey nerves. LOL
Sorry MChewk my old friend. Nothing good can come from it! LOL


Mac

Lol Mac! It all works, just for some guys different methods works better. Humidity I believe is the culprit of dip issues. I only dip traps if they show lots of rust.

@Mac Right now just the one trap. After killing a beaver at this location, they seem to be wary for about a week.

I just sprayed paint mine and call it good.

X2 on grease. Hate getting that crap on my hands. Makes my nose itch every time, lol.

@warrior What do you mean by “a well tuned trap?” What does it mean to “tune” a trap?

https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/forums/13/1/trap-preparation-archives - try this link.

http://www.trapperman.com/trapperman/Basic_Sets_Bodygrip_Adj.html

I use new traps including bodygrips as is for a season or two,then dye and wax.
A waxed trap,including bodygrips are much more efficient,and will have the best protection.
The trigger on a waxed bodygrip should engage the same as one not waxed.Only difference is it will go all at once when pushed.

Boco ,
You're gonna set the op up to get his hand or fingers caught or slapped hard.

Go ahead and wax those body grips, I kind of like my fingers, hands and arm bones.

I've waxed bodygrips and Boco is right they fire all at once. Often when you least expect it and get bits and pieces caught that you didn't want caught.

My advice do not wax unless you know what to expect and are skilled in handling large conibears.

I assume Boco is and quite frankly don't care what bits of his gets caught.

If your waxed 330's fire on their own or have a hair trigger,you have poor triggers.
A waxed trigger takes a push to get started once pushed they go at once like said,and dont creep.
Not any more dangerous than a non waxed trap if your tiggers are good.

The problem people have I believe is that they play with the triggers to get them to fire easier before waxing.then when waxed these triggers that have been adulterated are unpredictable when waxed.
A good solidly engaged bodygrip trigger is no problem when waxed-they still engage solidly until pushed.

I believe that I’ll pass on waxing my conibears for now. Thanks for the input folks.

Just set it and use it. I wax mine too but you don't have to mess with it.
After the oil is gone pressure wash it and let it dry in the sun all day then spray paint it. If you use a good hard paint it will be fast like you waxed it. Don't get caught - use a safety on the jaws.

If you decide to degrease, you can buy a can of spray brake cleaner at any auto parts department, spray and wipe with a rag. I have coated 330's with Full Metal Jacket (floor wax) with a paint brush after doing this with good luck. However, you don't need to do that for catching beaver.

I’ve got a knot on the back of my right hand from a broken bone caused by a waxed 280. No more waxing them for me.

Before setting anything for beavers, meet up with some people who’ve actually trapped beavers and listen to what they’re going to tell you. You may need to get a trapping license if you don’t own the property you’ll be trapping on. And this may require you to be knowledgeable about traps, the animals you’ll be trapping, and the rules of trapping.

I generally wash new traps in Dawn, let dry and either spray paint or dip traps in a coloring agent. Same with body grips. But for beavers, I’ve graduated to using snares. It’s easier on my arthritis AND on the beavers.