Favorite beaver foothold?

Never caught a beaver before and planning to try and catch one later in the month

I have a couple of 330's but wanted to pick up a foothold or 2 to try

So what is your favorite?
TS-85, MB750, CDR, NO BS Beaver Extreme, Bridger #5 or what?

CDR

The oltimers really liked a #5 beartrap with one spring removed.
Good holding power and lots of drowning weight.
Not practical today.and not legal in most jurisdictions I would suspect.
Lots of guys like the bigger jaw spread of newer traps(myself included) but millions of beaver have been trapped in number 3 and 4 sized double long spring traps.
I use mostly rotating jaw traps for beaver when furtrapping,but keep a few #5 bridger DLS for nuisance work.

Many are good but I like MB 750

CDR trap, TS-85 4 coiled (Illinois legal with inside lam.s), MB750, #5 Bridger traps

I'm old school. 95% of my beaver footholds are #4 DLS. You can't beat the holding power of a DLS

I like TS 85's,#4dls with paws i trip pans,and bridges #5 coils .Not a fan of the MB750's.

CDRs = difficult to find the older versions (they're better than newer versions/spring strength issue.)

TS85 = read about some past issues with pullouts, I've never had any problems.

Bridger 5 Coilspring = good all around beaver trap, reach for them alot.

MB750 = compact jawspread, but they've never let me down, dogless.

NoBS Beaver = heavy duty, dogless, excellent lockup, black coating.

Duke5 Longspring = strong springs, PIT pan and center swiveled.

These are the ones I have used and still use. NoBs trap is best bang for your buck if buying new...tighten pan tension, put on a drowner and in the water they go.

All of coilsprings currently on the market are good traps. I have used them all at different points, and the differences for me are more about features or usability in my situation and this will vary somewhat with different people. Double longs are not my cup of tea, mostly because they take more real estate to set and can be more difficult to bed in some situations - but they can also be easier to bed in some other situations.
I have been a CDR fan for a long time, but recently I have been using 4 coiled ts-85’s that I put a PIT pan on. I am finding these heavily modified 85’s to be my new favorite.
If I were to explain all of the factors and reasons why different traps “this and that”, it would take a book.
I will say this - when used properly, they will all catch beaver. From there it is a journey wherein you discover what you like and what you need for your style and region.
If you are just starting out, any (edit - well, all but one…)of the beaver traps currently on the market will be OK, but I definitely recommend trying different ones and finding what works for you.

All I've used are Bridger 5s CS, and DLS love them. I like the longs better (easier to set), but don't use the spring attachment for the chain (I quick linked mine to the frame).

Bridger #5 4 coil and maybe bridger 3.

#3 Bridger. That’s the biggest we are allowed in my state!

#4 DLS. I like a longspring that I can set over my knee easily while standing in knee deep water in hip boots. #5 would work fine, but I've never found the extra size necessary. I've caught a lot of beaver in a #3 DLS, but like the #4s better.

The trap I grab is a Bridger #5 coil spring

TS85s or the No BS Beaver is what I use BT. Never had issues with the 85s.

Backfoot target: I like MB-750's which I'm sure are an overkill but hey, maybe we'll get wolves someday. We can't use TS-85s in NY.

Front foot target: This year I started using the Dale Billingsley front-foot method using Duke #4's (because they grab higher and have 6.5" jaw spread) and it has so far worked very well. I would strongly recommend trying. And holding the beaver on a 10' cable that lets them swim, not drowning.

Here: https://www.trappersreport.com/stor...d-Trappers-of-Kentucky-convention--video

It's hard to hear him, but if you strain to get the information, it will be worth it. Tip: If you're in the Northeast, use a pile of rocks for the bumper. I just got two possibly-super-blankets (definitely blanket beavers) this year, one using this method. My tip for setting back foot catches (different method) is putting my arm out tip of fingers to shoulder, then setting trap straight down from my shoulder. Seems like it would be too deep but it's not. Those are my two biggest secrets.

What stinks is that Trapper Man is open to any public internet search but I'll share it anyway.

No.4 Jump

A Beaver has no defense against a well placed MB750

I use almost all MB 750's and some no BS Beaver extremes. I have tried most of the others listed and these are the ones I have settled on. Placement and pan tension are key in my opinion.

Most will have a favorite, but someone who’s caught a few thousand beaver has reasons for that favorite, and the next person who has caught thousands will have a different favorite for different reasons. If you are just starting on the journey, pick whatever one for whatever reason appeals to you. That is to say, don’t get too hung up on which foothold trap, at least beyond avoiding any with weak springs.

Lots of good info

I was going to watch the video, lunch about over so have to watch tonight

How do you ID an older CDR?
Not that I am going to go that route but would like to know if I ever happen up on one at a garage sale (which is highly unlikely where I live )

I've used #3 #4 #14s mb750 ts85 and Bridger #5 and my favorite out of those is TS85 it's a big trap and I can still set it by hand. My least favorite is mb 750 not because it isn't a good holding powerful trap, it does its job amazing. Only because I had a situation where my chain got hooked onto the rod that presses down on the tabs on the jaws and caused the trap not to fire.

[quote=BTLowry]Lots of good info

I was going to watch the video, lunch about over so have to watch tonight

How do you ID an older CDR?
Not that I am going to go that route but would like to know if I ever happen up on one at a garage sale (which is highly unlikely where I live )

[/quote Here are 2 versions of the older 7.5 CDRS.

Mad scientist- you wouldn’t happen to have an extra dozen of those Homer City pan CDR’s would you?

Didnt think so.

I’ll let you know when I retire from trapping or maybe I’ll just take them to my grave lol.

Plain Bridger #5 ok or do I need the Alaskan modded one?

I have some Cabelas cash to use

No need for the alaskan model. I use 750s a lot. Just caught one in a ts-85 and really like that I can set it, and get the beaver out easily by hand.I think any of the 7+ inch jaw spread traps will serve you well.

I did not like the TS85's. I had many traps tripped and empty, even with 4+# of pan tension. Some were not even moved from their beds just setting there tripped, some were part way down the drowning rods, some where clear at the bottom of the drowning rods, empty. There was a video on here once of a beaver getting caught in a TS85 high above the ankle on the back foot, and the trap was empty when the guy came to check it in the morning. You'll often see in catch pictures with this trap where the trap slid down the foot, even over the ankle bone sometimes. If I were to ever give them another chance I'd 4 coil them, but that defeats the best part about them, being easy to set.

I've yet to see a catch picture like this with one ...



I'll stick with the strong traps.

Older CDRs are my favorite! Also use the Bridger #5 LS. I have a few Bridger #5 CS for where I feel there is a highest probability of trap theft; but we know that never happens (shaking head).

Never used the TS85, to large for regulations here in Wisconsin. All the listed traps in their own right are good traps.

ADC is that a MB750?

That is a MB750

yep.

A trapping buddy of mine made this catch.

You cannot go wrong with Duke #5 DLS…very stout springs, PIT style pan/dog, thickened baseplate, and center swiveled…all straight from the factory.

If you buy factory Bridgers, you’d have to do all the modifications yourself.

Yep, I meant a catch picture like that with a TS85. And you never will unless its staged or has beefed up springs.