deer deterent?

I have a friend with deer problems. Being in Alaska, you would think an arrow would be the solution, but alas, even here we have areas that are No Hunting. They are eating everything he's planted, including ornamentals, shrubs, flowers, etc., and the bucks are rubbing all his trees to the point of killing them. My wife insists that if you sprinkle cayenne pepper around the base of trees, shrubs, etc. the deer will leave them alone. I am calling you know what.
Does anyone here have any experience using the pepper method, or is it just another wives tale?

HAHA I had a doe and two fawns eat my whole hot cherry pepper patch last year! Now I have a 7 ft fence.

My local DNR guys swear by "plot saver" and you can see a difference when you look at their food plots.

For the buck rubs that's easy just get some of black coragated pipe and cut it about a foot above the rubs then slit the pipe down the side and rap it around the tree . as fare as the ornament trees shrubs ect you could run a hot wire cattle fence about six inch off the ground and run a double row and that will even stop bear . I would suggest planting native type plants , shrubs ect . Or go all rocks . Rocks are good you don't have to feed and water them . Using rotten egg mix works good in hot weather but needs redone after each rain , that's not going to work in your area . My uncle puts fishing line around his garden and that works good and he lives in deer heaven

Okay guys, let's not get too excited about this electrified fence deal. Nobody's got any more deer per square foot than we do. Yes, electrified fence works great, once you've shocked every deer that is trying to go through it! You can count on repairing that fence once for each time a new deer tries to invade it. ( And if it's a big horned buck, he may take your electric wires and knit you a vest!

My uncle uses a product they sell at the big box stores. It is a ribbon with a repelling sent in it. He puts some stakes in the ground and runs the ribon from one stake to the next. You can buy the repellent and reapply it to the ribbon every couple weeks. He says it works great. Keeps all the animals away.

What!!!??? Nobody uses Moth balls? LOL

Here's something that just popped into my head. ( Well it was wide open ) What kind of deer are we talking about in Juneau? Mulies, Sitka Black tails, or whitetails? I've only had experience with whitetails so I don't even know if the other two would act the same way.

Its called PLOT SAVER

Thanks Paul now I'm hungery

I have a spray for deer. Its called lead.

We use to spray a solution on seedlings that was made from dried blood. It seemed to work pretty well.

We've had quite a few requests for this type of fence option and having an old colleague who is mr. deer fence I've spent plenty of time looking
into this. The one major thing you must have is some training involved, meaning flagging to show them visually the fence is there, and some
scent spots to get them to lick the fence and get a good charge. If your soil is poor and doesn't conduct well that plus the hooves of deer not
being great conductors you can fail before you start.

To date we haven't installed any yet, though they are an affordable option, but I would agree with Paul, you will have some maintenance, but following
the folks who sell it and their protocols you can reduce those issues and provide an effective barrier.

There are two main companies that sell tons of this stuff including very cosmetic poles and other pieces that will make it less ugly for the more expensive homes and estates. There is also barrier fence that is similar to stealth net for birds, but is built and made for deer and when stretched is nearly invisible, again a great option.

Otherwise I sure like venison, but as stated, no hunting means that option is just fun to mention, but useless to the dude with the problem!



justin

To start with your question, I don't know. My suggesting would be to try it because it either will work or it won't. If it works, you have to listen to your wife say I told you so. If it doesn't you can stay quite knowing that you were right all along.

Aside from that, don't get confused with the options available here. No hunting means no hunting. It doesn't mean no lethal wildlife damage management control. The issue usually is that you have to try other methods first before you can request lethal control (think of getting a permit for woodpecker damage). I say usually because that isn't always the case, especially with deer. Based on damage, at times you may be able to get a lethal permit from the word go, but you can't get one if you don't ask.

Addressing this issue as a potential business project, start with looking at all your options and then begin eliminating them either by price, practicality, or practice.

The first option with any deer issue will be harassment. Look for products that can harass the deer making the property unattractive to them. This could include wildlife harassment explosive devices (pyrotechnics), propane cannons, noise makers, sound tracks, Rap music (sorry, couldn't resist), visual deterrents (lights, flags, banners, etc.), dogs or anything else you can think that may "scare" the deer including food based repellants.

Next on the list is habitat modification. This includes removal/replacement of the food source, additional plantings to stop the deer from access the property, installing food plots on the property boarders to give the deer an alternate food source and other such activities.

The next step would be exclusion. This could be anything from installing a deer fence around the entire property to multiple electric fences to wrapping trees.

Fourth is capture and removal. They do make and sell traps for deer that are effective. What is done with the deer afterwards is generally up to your game department. They may want them translocated or euthanized then donated or buried.

Last is lethal control. Again, this may require the animal to be processed and donated or buried. Knowing what is mandated helps in determining what the cost would be.

Once again, I'm not saying that some of what I have posted here would even be discussed with the client as it may not be cost effective or practical (fencing off a 1/4 acre yard is totally different then fencing off 100 acres or more), but you need to look at all the options (including the pepper option) before starting.

I feel most of the issues individuals have in this field (including myself at times) is that they didn't look at the whole situation before trying to resolve it. They rely too heavily on one method only so when that method doesn't work, they become unsure of how to handle it. When you approach each new opportunity with an open mind, you begin to see solutions you hadn't thought about adding them to your arsenal of solutions.

It's like being a trapper that only makes dirt hole sets then begins adding other sets like urine posts, blind sets, and such as they get experience. They may always prefer to start with the dirt hole when possible, but when the situation isn't right or they need a change up they know how to do it and get it done instead of picking the trap up and walking away.

There is a sonic deterrent on the market the wildlife control supplies sells called pro guard I have installed these on several houses and it works great just hang them over the areas where the deer are eating the landscape and point them out over it and that's it. They are motion activated with different levels of intensity. You can either set them up to run off batteries or off of your home electricity good luck

Thanks, guys. I think he's going to try Plotsaver. He tells me he's been shooting them with a Red Rider BB gun, but they just look at him, then go back to browsing.
I'll let you know how it works.

Lots of things will work for a little bit . When I first plant my food plots and things are just coming up I put them solar lights out and that keeps them away till things grow . If I don't they just pull up the plants to get the seed . It's just something there not use to . That same deer walks over to someone house with the same lights lighting there side walk its not a problem . People here will hang bounce laudery sheets along there property line when someone hangs a stand right on the line but hunting over the line . That's not right . It's different when someone is hunting there land and shoots one and it dies over the line . That's not a problem . Some will just go get it or ask first . It's good to talk to your neighbors before hunting and talk about things like this . I hate it when these city people move out in farm country , they buy up a wood lot next to this other city guy and they get to fighting over this stuff . I'm like come on guys get along and make up some rules and learn to work together and yes I'll nock back the coons and coyote back some .

Certain spray-on taste repellents are effective.

Another very good strategy is to use a fear-based repellent that plays on a deer's keen sense of smell and instinctive fear of predators.

SA's Deer Repellent Packs are the only all weather, all natural product that uses genuine predator urine in a weather resistant pouch. They are very easy to use. Simply hang the packs in and around the plants you want to protect.

You can buy them in any quantity you need with volume discounts here: Deer Repellent Packs

Right now I'm working on a deer repellent pack that sounds like an 18 wheeler doing 78 MPH!

To be quite honest, the best deer control program in a very populated area of southeast Wisconsin, is one I'm very familiar with. They have 50 deer traps and also use shooters as necessary. It's a fairly small area with excellent deer habitat. They remove a couple hundred deer annually and because the meat processing is paid for by the DNR and is donated to the needy, even the ultra-liberals keep their mouths shut.

My son and I just got our tags for hunting city deer here. We are allowed to keep one deer per member of our family, and also have access to a city cooler to hang them. 3 years ago I got 13 does.

Chew nott is the only one that works.
I think they just got bought out by deer pro.

And it works great!

I like electricity if you can't eat them. Justin is right about the training of the deer and the flagging or you will be repairing it constantly. A cheap try with electric... WCS sells a little flower looking device that you put a cotton ball with lure on it to attract the deers nose and it gives a pretty good shock. I used it around one of those little chicken houses that you move around your yard with fish oil on it and it moved the coons. I think it was 60 dollars for three. Worked good on grand kids also. I think it would be worth a try on the deer.

What were you trying to keep the grandkids from eating? When they hit the refrigerator, they make Attila the Hun look like an amateur.

ever try human hair?? Heard that works....My neighbor also uses a radio on a timer to keep them out of the garden. It starts at dusk and runs til daylight....he said it works