Barn rat trapping.

I have a fairly serious rat population around some poultry houses. I could use some tips. Where do you buy plastic pan victors? I see the metal trigger victors all over. But not as many plastic pans. Thanks for your help.

Hardware stores. You can order them with free shipping from the big box stores as well. Trapping supply stores carry them but after shipping, it's no different than paying the extra money for them on the shelves at a hardware store.

Do you anchor the rat traps? How? I anchor them with electric fence wire.

Best wishes.

If all you have at the moment are traditional victors. With a couple modifications they are just as deadly. If you're debating on what to anchor them with. I would use what you have available, cable, chain etc. I like using tent stakes for outdoor trapping and if you can't drive one into the ground or screw into an object. Piece of 4in x 4in x 1/4 inch piece of steel works great as well. Get all my scrap steel from a fabricating company. It's all scraps and FREE!

Just need something strong enough that a predator can't run off with. If the problem is (bad) most likely the only thing going to be moving the traps are other rats, and if they can't move the trap they'll feast on the rats right there in the trap.

I like the idea of using a piece of steel as an anchor where you cannot fasten.

To anchor in wood floors or wood framework, i use star drive deck screws and electric fence wire - they don't strip and can be reused many times.

Large spikes used for landscaping are inexpensive and reusable - great for anchoring rat traps in a dirt barn floor or outside. They are available around here in 8" and 10". I drive them in about half or 3/4 and fasten the trap with a twist of electric fence wire.

I have seen some enormous rats at dairy farms where poison could not be used. Serious anchors can be necessary.

The masses who rely on duct tape must have never tried electric fence wire!

We use light wire and binder clips to anchor rat traps. It doesn't take much to hold them in place. Loose traps can be walked quite a distance and under material.

binder clips- http://www.officedepot.com/a/browse/binder-clips/N=5+581683/

Hate to lose a trap. In our warehouse there are a lot of places within a few feet that they can disappear for weeks.

Small stakes in soil conditions through the traps or drill and wire tie off to objects or stakes as needed. Stakes are much better as they help to stabilize the traps for better catches and less prone to movement manipulation.

I had a few original victor rat traps and preferred the "pan style" so I just cut out a small piece of hardware cloth and hot glued it to the metal tab. This gives a bigger section for them to trigger the trap. I can take some pictures when I am home from work. I just smear some peanut butter on them and check once a day.....The redneck 5 gallon pail trap is a killer setup as well if you want to leave it set up somewhere for a couple days.

I use flashing on the traditional victors to widen the pan, to each their own. Whatever you do, try not to complicate rodent control. You could end up spending more time brainstorming on how to come up with, or buy the "BEST" trap out there, when you in fact already have one of the best traps out already.

Mine is basically the exact same as TDHP's only I had some hardware cloth next to me when I did it. Works great.

The steel leaders that they use for fishing work great. They have a clip on one end and a swivel on the other. Put some of the bait under the pan.

I've used chain and cable for years. Little overkill but I tend to use whats readily available.

Thanks for the pics. They do help me visualize stuff.

Check this out. Never seen one before...and I want one! (Gotta dispatch yourself but if you can get big numbers, worth it IMHO.)

There's one for cats/coons...but check out the one for rats!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTi6CrurbAo

I could see a trap like that being used on a farm/warehouse or similar setting where you could leave it as a stationary trap. More for the homeowner IMO. Personally don't think that trap is practical considering where we have to set traps during jobs where you're still dealing with big numbers.

On top of that, dealing with them after removal would be a waste of time, and ultimately cost the homeowner more money. Pretty hard to beat a bucket full of snap traps and good bait. Setting traps are easy, the bucket is light takes a second to remove a rat from a trap and toss into the bucket and reset the trap and move on versus carrying a bunch of those on site.

There are times I'm dealing with folks who don't want to go the setting traps route due to barn cats. For folks like those, it could be a good solution. More time consuming, yes, but a way to get them trapped and out...and if they want to pay for it, who am I to argue?

The price I would charge to use that trap nobody would pay. To use that trap just cause wouldn't make sense. JMO you would lose money using that trap on fast moving accounts. The amount of jobs you could do with snap traps would supersede the jobs using that trap, reason.. trap placement. Having to wait them out versus placing traps where they need to be. Weasel boxes with a hole or a half face plate IMO would be a better route if you're worried about cats, but that's just me.Snap traps for me get the job done so if it isn't broke I don't fix it. The only time I would be looking for an alternative to traps and methods, would be if I were having difficulty doing the job.

No way I'd lose money, not with all of the snake owners I know...

For most jobs, sure, use snap traps...but I have several clients who do not, under any circumstances, want traps in their barns. So what if it sits there...if I'm out doing other jobs while it is doing its thing, great!

Around these parts, we're dealing with desert pack rats...a different kind of critter. Different behavior. Don't need specific trap placement for them...if they're anywhere in the area, they go wherever the food is, and they don't waste any time doing it.

So you do agree. Only true way to figure that one out would be to purchase them and place snap traps on the same job and wait for the results. For me it would be used for a "specialty" application if that. Not sure about your regs but we have a 24hr check on traps, you would still need to visit the job location, couldn't just let it sit there and "do its thing". Few of my farm jobs wanted nothing to do with snap traps because they have a boat load of free range chickens/ducks and when the time is right little chicks roaming. JMO, in this business you need to improvise and adapt, I buy when I need to. I just don't see a need for that trap on my jobs. Unless one is all about spending money on things to try new products or can't come up with an improvised plan of attack.."spend da m0n3y". Feel free to buy a few and time lapse both traps and post results, maybe...just maybe I could be convinced, but I won't be the suckah to buy them. Too much handling after the fact, even if you're bringing them to "snake owners". I'd just fluff the price on the job before I waste the time and energy. jmo ;-\

I was joking about snakes...but for jobs that I can't use kill traps on...I do use repeaters. Those critters get dispatched, and if healthy, I donate to the local wildlife rehab center for their juvenile raptors. It helps them learn how to recognize sight, smell, and taste of what they're supposed to be hunting for, once released. Sure, that takes me some time, but to me, it's well worth it, considering the numbers of raptors we have out here dropping from the skies due to secondary rodenticide poisoning. I get a lot of calls because of the way I do business in situations like these...a lot of folks out there are opting NOT to use poison, and some feel bad about killing things, but if they know that the (trapped) animal is going on to serve a positive purpose, believe me, it often makes the difference in whether I get a job or don't. We have the same 24 hour law...but we are permitted to have the property owner check, should they desire to---and I am usually called long before the 24 hour check is due. Different strokes for different folks in different locations....

Aye tha'd be my line! good grief

The big t-rex rat traps attached to a short 2x4 or 2x6 work well for rats

Any of you EVER try bodygrips like 55s or 110s for rats? How did it work out for you, and did you use standard wires or added pans?




I know snap traps are the standard, I'm just curious

I use t-rex traps as well...as long as I wire them so they don't disappear, they work great! I got my fingers broken in a wooden rat trap a few years back...so I won't use those ever, ever again-small hands and wood rat traps just don't mix-at least not for me. :-) I've never tried body grips...

Guess not

Standard wire 110s work, set the trigger on the last notch and start it so it moves free a bit like for mink. Set blind

Illegal to use here without a permit and would be best used for muskrats with the regs that are in place. Jmo, those traps aren't practical for most applications when it comes to Adc work for rats. More of a preference thing than effectiveness. The majority of places where rat traps need to be placed in order to be successful in regards to time and catch volume those traps wouldn't cut it. Bigger liability risk when dealing with children and pets at the residence as well.

I too at times like to use certain methods and traps to do a job because I like that method or trap. If you run two traps along side by side on the same job you can get a feel for how effective one is over the other. (Pros&Cons) Those traps would be out trapped by standard rat traps and ultimately you risk losing money on the job. For the simple fact of trap placement and running time.

Thanks for the replies. I like the idea of using BGs, but you're right, I think snap traps would be much quicker and easier to set.




I still think these are a good idea for certain situations, but they're probably more of a squirrel trap setup than a rat trap....
https://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/NBRBG25WB.html

Trex won't work on our 16 in long rats

VPRT's back springs raised 1/8 3/16 to a 1/4 inch will take out any rodent. They do a stand up job alone without any mods.

What's wrong with a bait station (cubby) with a 2" hole in both ends and run rat poison...Aka rodent rocks ...

Nothing at all if you're licensed to handle it on someones property besides your own, and if the homeowner allows it to be placed on their property. Many folks are 100% against poisons being placed on their property. I don't have a core License to handle it on someones property besides my own, and have no interest in obtaining it at this time. Not sold on that's the best method of removal either, especially after the repairs I've done to homes and apartments for the removal of dead rodents in the warmer months.

Have to plug all the rodent entry points ....professional term ..lol

That would be exclusion work, the obvious which is done on every job unless the customer wants to seal up on their own. So you'd place poison on a property where the homeowner wants nothing to do with it? Interesting.. I've been in homes with trays filled with poison and bait stations that were used but never took care of the problem. So how is poison professional? heh Lemme grab the popcorn...this should be interesting.