Huge live trap.

Some one turned a bunch of dogs loose down the Rd. They have caught all but one but that's been three weeks ago. I have a huge live trap and missed him twice. Any ideas on bait placement. I've tried wiring the bait on but it won't commit to that. It does commit to meat in a bowl. Just doesn't stand on release it reaches across to eat. And suggestions??

Put a piece of plywood twice as long as the pan just resting on the the pans leading edge. if he steps on the plywood to reach over the pan you'll have him.

2nd option is a stick through the cage 4 inches up from the bottom 3 inches in front of the pan to force him to step over the stick and on to the pan/

Tie a string braided nylon to pan. If pan is solid drill hole. Put an eye or small pulley on bottomof trap under hole toward back and on back frame of trap. Run string through and tie to bait. When he pulls he pulls the pan down firing the trap. A huge trap to me is 8 feet long, at least 4' wide and 5 or 6' tall. The door may not fall fast enough no matter what you do unless it is spring loaded.

how about a collarum? WCS has them $97.00
https://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/NWSCDM02.html

I use a good size mono fishing line. tie one end to the hook holding the door and run the line a couple times across the cage and tie it off solid. When the dog pushes the string to get to the bait, it trips the door. Also works well with cats in coon sizes traps.

Bingo

I trap a lot of ferals...most are trap shy.

I set up one of these...with a secured top. Drive a railroad spike or 1 inch rebar into the ground where the door meets the frame-tie a looooong piece of rope to the center of the door (one the door frame, where it meets the frame of the kennel)

Feed for 48 hours with the door tied completely open so that it doesn't move in the wind. On day 3, game on. They walk in to eat, I'm about 25 yards off in my truck, yank that rope, the bottom of the door hits the rebar-and stops it dead right there as if it was locked. The dog usually bounces around in there for a couple of minutes, once they realize they can't get out. Tie off the rope firmly on the truck end, grab a catch pole, don't un-tie the door end of the rope until you can physically close the door-get in there when you're ready...and collar the dog.

They're quick to put together, and quick to take apart, fit in the back of a pickup truck-just make dang sure you reinforce the bottom and top and sides of the chain link to the frame using heavy wire...really ticked off dogs will try to push out through anywhere they can, and make some type of a top out of welded wire fencing...it just needs to sit up on top with a few bungee cords holding it down.

http://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Dog-Galvaniz...;s=pet-supplies

Here's pics of a Whippet mix that had been running for 18 months. Would not commit to a trap even though she was literally starving to death. This is exactly how I got her.

Look at the second to last pic. That's her head trying to go through the chain link once she realized she was trapped. That's why you want to reinforce the chain link against the frame with heavy wire, top and bottom. Some dogs are strong enough to go through it if you don't.


Last pic is 6 months later, going to her forever home. :-)

whenever i have an animal that wont step on the pan of the cage trap...i dig a hole big enough to fit the bait inside and then put bait in and set cage trap over the bait with the pan directly above it. No way for them to get to bait without setting trap off.

of course if you are tryin to catch a squirrel or coon on a roof...it typically is not a good idea to dig a hole in the roof HAHAHA

Surely you are suspending the bait up towards a corner!
I was taught that early on and keeps their attn. up there away from the treadle.....and add a board as mentioned, lengthening the treadle.

I suspended baits for EVERYTHING with great success.

A very successful bobcat cage maker/ trapper suggested the same about bait under trigger pan.

I like the attack chihuahuas in AZ