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Undo the springs and pull the staple out, put a small piece of broom straw in the hole and tap back the staple. Put a shime under the two springs in the center of the trap and lift the springs back on.

I would use thin gauged wire and cut flush top and bottom of platform. That trap is still good, you just won't get tail and paw catches. You could build the platform up depending on how fancy you want to get or you can just buy a new one and be sure its a victor professional rat trap (yellow pan). Much better pan configuration for surface contact and a lot less maintenance on the mechanics of the functionality of the trap regarding the bar/trigger. jmo

Toss it. Buy a new one. That's what I would do. But, I am not a mechanic or craftsman. Any junk traps I usually throw in a bucket. Someone is always looking for junk traps for parts at trapping shows.

If you don't want to tinker with them but don't want to purchase a new trap use glue. First trap only got a few snaps out of and the hammer anchor went on the left side. I scuffed the surface on the platform then added glue to the holes, and set the anchor. Hasn't given me any trouble and takes mice without any issues. The second trap same deal but the right anchor went on it. Glue has worked well with no problems and the traps take a beating. Just another option if all that shim work along with adding new holes isn't your deal.

do you feel that you are missing rat do to that little gap?

Trap placement and bait will always play a role, we slap bait anywhere from the edges to the bait pocket and have no issues. Every now and then I'll get a funky trap and have to chuck or fix.


High low it don't matter to me, just as long as I get them.

Victor does have a good warrantee on their traps, especially these rat traps.
Email them and tell us what happens.
Because this a public open forum, they will probably look it up.

Buy new. they are like $20: a case https://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/NWS1702.htmlhttps://www.wildlifecontrolsupplies.com/animal/NWS1702.html

Can someone point out the differences with the new ones made in China, with the older USA made one? Or should this be another thread?

drill two tiny holes beside the staple and use a bread tie to secure the kill bar assembly. then you can adjust the level of your kill bar contact

The plastic pan covers the Lititz Pa. stamp. But you can see from the link above the W of www. and the M of com show some of the older traps.
Anyone got some new ones? To post a pic.
Heard they were weaker and probably would not make the Canadian standards for a weasel trap

Some modifications for rat traps.
https://www.thehuntinglife.com/modified-pro-victor-rat-trap/

The chin bar and wedge under the spring arms make a huge difference. Have caught grey squirrels in these traps with those modifications.

can't ya just slide a screwdriver from the side and twist?..........over the side that won't lay flat and under the opposite bar.

Nice thread.

These traps don't. They can take a good beating and continue to work in the elements to get the job done when needed.

Nah, thaz not kewl, whats kewl is the fact that there is a very simple solution to your problem. Purchasing better or more traps would be a start. If it's broke, fix it. I find it even "kewler" that the many problems that come across these threads whether it be traps, methods, bait/lure or anything else that goes wrong are induced by human error, not all the time but quite often. Plenty of pest guys use those old traditional traps and whack rats all day with'em. Sometimes ya get a bad batch, the "kewl" thing about that is...it has a cure.

Thanks for the help,TDHP.

Yes, but for some reason the OP seemed to want to retract this thread.