fleshing knife

Looking for a good knife.. I want a good one but can't decide between the necker, wiebe or post two handle...any help would be appreciated...Thaanks

Don't like my Necker. Post handles well, haven't seen the Wiebe.

I purchased my Post from Mr. Jim Bethell on here last season. Put up several coon and several beaver with it as season winded down. I could not be happier with it. Quality knife.

Get the Post and start setting steel. Post is well worth the price and Jim Bethell is a straight shooter. After I got my Post, my Necker seldom gets used. And I watched two very experienced fur handlers that were teaching an advanced fur handling class use a Post fleshing knife on a beaver for the first time last year. They were in different areas of the building and neither knew what the other was doing and the comments from both of them were identical..."I got to have one of these" And I know for a fact that they both have a Post 2 handle flesher now.

I have a post a necker a single edge weibe and a cheap one. I like the post the most. I wish I didn't spend my money on the nexker but it took me all those knives to figure out what I liked. I say buy a post and only but one.

Jim is where I got mine also! Awsome knife!

You can pick up the top of the line knife but If you don't know how to use it won't be worth squat.
When you hear some one down grading a certain knife It's probably operator error.

Agreed beav... I'm no pro but the reason I like my post more than others is that I don't have to touch it up half way through 1 animal. I can do a couple beavers and half a dozen coon before I need to touch it up.

The only knife I ever used was Necker 600. There might be better knives out there but I got It down to a science.

Got my Steinmeyer, and it’s the last fleshing knife I will ever need.

When I first bought my Necker, my biggest issue was it didn’t match the contour of my beam, like my previous fleshing knife did, spent some time with a belt sander and finish scraping with the necker… can’t blame the knife for that.

When I hear that comment about the shape of the knife doesn't fit the contour of the beam I just scratch my head. Since most your knives have no curvature to them. And of coarse that Isn't an issue anyway.
First of all your knife should be just about flat to the beams surface. If It's not your holding your knife wrong. Then the next thing Is your using a side to side slicing motion so your following the contour of the beam with the flat of your knife.
Then of coarse your only using about 2" of the knife blade as you slice. If your starting out and using your knife like a snowplow your doing It wrong.

It's all about operator technique with any knife.

Same here !!!

Beav,
Example Coon: I usually start with a slicing motion down until the center of the shoulders and then use the concave (dull) side of the knife to “Snowplow” the rest. My Necker 600 has a distinctive curve, I was always taught to make sure it matched the beam. I agree with technique- sharp side of the blade all the way down for me would = hole.

I have put up a lot with a 600 Necker no problems. I found a place that has the Necker 700.Thinking of getting one. I would like to try a Steinmeyer knife.

I'll be getting a steinmeyer after this season

It's all In what you get use to.

I use Lee’s parallel knife, and it cut the time it takes me to flesh a coon in half. I will be getting one of the short parallel knives from him also. I put one of them on the gift table at Minktoberfest this year, and I really liked the way it felt in my hands. I think the gentleman that got it was pretty anxious to put it to work.

^^^ THIS^^^
Love it... and it comes sharp and stays sharp a long time. Two hits with a steel and you're back in business - for a long time!
Excellent craftsmanship and a great guy - on the forum.

I use a Necker but mainly the dull side. I think I would go to something different if I strictly needed the sharp side. I also have a lot of questions of what type. I "reskin" my beaver when the are on the board and would really like to learn using a fleshing knife on a beam for them. Is straight blade better then a curved??

i use a freedom brand 10 inch works great . never liked the necker
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This is the one I use. I do have the cheap blue single side ones I use that for skins like mink and rats .All other furs I use the Necker 600 .Like Beav stated of get it down to a science. It take a few skins before before I need to sharpen it . When I first got the 600 ,it took some getting use to. but now I would not part from it.

ZEPH makes a good one too. Blade is a little thicker and stronger than the others. Good for the heavy pushing like on a big tough coyote.

I have a Necker, I like it! There is some comments on matching the knife to the beam, my PVC beam system and the Necker works well for me.

The Post Fleshing knife is all I use. Great lite weight wood handled knife with great steel to hold an edge.

This ^^^^^

Lee Steinmeyer. Never need another knife.

Z

I have 2 Neckers and bought a Post from Jim Bethell, I have fleshed a couple hundred coyotes and cats with it, If something happened to it today I would have a new one on the way today

I have had a sheffield for about 40 years, never have "sharpened" it, hit with a steel a couple of times a year you are good to go. I have scraped 1000s of coon and beaver with it, some of my own and custom work. I like the looks of Lees knife, about like the Sheffield, but if I bought one I don't know if I could get it dirty, It's to pretty.

"Post" has impressed me the most.

I used to use a Knecker 600 until I bought one of Lee's parallels now the knecker just hangs out.. Something about the angle and the steel he uses takes a lot of the work out of the equation.