Necker 600

So I took a bunch of advice this year and bought a new Necker 600 fleshing knife. I was expecting that one (or both) of the edges were going to come sharp, obviously I was wrong. I'm not knocking the knife but I don't think I'm using it correctly or plan just bought the wrong knife? I flesh on a upside down 4" to 5" fence post. I pull the knife down from the head to the tail with the curve of the knife down (upside down u shape). Can someone recommend a better knife? Can I make my Necker work? Advice is much appreciated!
Thanks Griz

The dull side Is for pushing fat or In your case pulling fat. The sharp side Is for slicing gristle. The dull side will be the concave side.
I think your problem Is the beam being a fence post.

I have two Necker 600 fleshing knives and like them. My beams are round and two different sizes and I push while fleshing. The only time I use my sharp edge is for beaver and maybe on the gristle of a coons neck area. The only problem I see is using them on my round beams using the sharp side is that I push off a pretty narrow swat of flesh.

It sounds like you are sitting down and pulling the knife to you?? If that is the case the necker wouldn't work for you. Maybe try Blue English. Or change your set up so you are pushing from the head to the tail. Then you can slice with the sharp side and push with the dull.

You are correct except I'm not setting down, I stand. I will look into this "Blue English" you speak of.
Thanks Griz

OK so the only thing that I do that falls along these lines as the Blue English is my board (if you can call it that) is vertical. From what I can gather is I got the wrong knife? I need a sharp knife on the conical side, Right?
Griz

I personally think If you went to a regular beam your problems will go away.

I suppose you could sharpen the edge you want to use on the necker. If it still doesn’t do what you need then you can change something else. You can always dull it back down if needed.

When you say "sharp", Do you mean like a hunting knife?

I don’t know just how sharp you need it to be for your application. If you’re trying to shave the fat off it will need to be pretty sharp (sharp enough to cut you). The sharper it is the more likely the hide will get cut. If your beam isn’t smooth the odds of cutting go up. I don’t know how you hold the hide on the post to get controlled pressure on it while fleshing. I would agree with The Beav that a regular beam would be your best answer to get a good result. There’s a bit of a learning curve when it comes to fleshing.

Or get a hold of Lee Stienmeyer , I'd suggest the narrow smaller of his fleshing knives he spends a lot of time on Chat in the Wayne Derrick coyote thread .
Allan

It's not so much about what knife you have It's all about learning how to use what you have.

x2

Unless you have a Post, those things are a work of art.

If you can't get It done with a necker your not going to get It done with a post or one of Lee's knives.