I like it. That is how we all learn.

From the posts above it sounds like the 1/2x 1 has not been problematic on a roof, in 14 gage. 12 gage wire is available in some traps in 1/2x1, all but bullet proof and tighter yet due to smaller holes resulting from a bump up in wire diameter. As good and tight as the 14 gage has been, I would think the chance for roof damage with even tighter 12 gage wire would be just about non-existent. 1/2x1/2 is not used much, not available in coon sized traps of which I am aware, and I have only seen it in 16 gage.

JBarnes,

Make sure that you also do this test with 20 yr, 30 yr, and 40 yr shingles. Otherwise, you may end up getting a result that works for one but not for the other.

Good point! Might as well go all out on this so we all know for sure. The shingles I currently have are 30yr shingles that are new. It may also matter the age of the shingles and how flat they lay on the roof. I dont have any of the dimensional type but it would be interesting to know if the structure of the shingles give them something to grip and pull/damage. Oddly enough i was on a job this morning in Tipp City Oh that validates another reason why this experiment is needed. On Jan 25th i setup a raccoon removal job with two cage traps spanning over the ridge of the roof with wire so each one holds each other in place without having to screw them into the roof. It had been a few days and homeowner hadnt called and i was in the area so decided to swing by and freshen up the bait. The homeowner noticed "and didnt bother letting me know" that one of the traps had been covered up with wind blown snow so he decided to climb his antenna pole "aka raccoon ladder" and fix the traps for me. For some reason he took the one trap i had on the north side of the roof and put it on the same side as the other "south" so it woudlnt get snow drift again. Thank God i didnt catch the raccoon as these are 1" wire cages all but around the bait area and he didnt even bother relocating the rubber mat i had on the north side. For one thing he should have never touched the traps "as explained in the service agreement", and who knows what would have happened as there was now no counterweight in place to hold the traps on the roof.

Jim, i have had a few PM's and there are a few posts in this thread that say don't chance it as roof damage will occur. If you are willing to cover any roof damage that occurs on my jobs using your traps Ill abort the exp't and order a skid of yours right now.

Would I be out of line if I said that 100% of the roof damage to shingles occurs when the raccoon gets his paws underneath the door of a cage that is 100% I/2 inch x 1 inch material?

Experiment is underway with raccoon #1 a large female.

Guess I must getting old. Thanks to your post and picture, I just realized that lactating females cause severe damage, where males and sterile females may cause none. Hence the problems on roof shingles.

A 280, 220, 160 on roof can be hidded, covered, camo'ed, or boxed. The coon is DOA, out of site, not clawing at anything and immune from the weather and any other sort of so called "inhumane" unpleasantness. Why are body grips not legal for nuisance work in most of your areas? In the hands of a skilled trapper, a body grip is an ideal tool in many situations. Notice the word "skilled." I have yet to Conibear a pet roof cat, probably because cats aren't fruit eaters. Are nuisance trappers from certain states less mindful, less skilled, less ethical? There will be buffoons in any profession who are careless with tools. That is no reason to criminalize the entire industry. Who else is getting tired of "them nuisance trappers are a bunch of redneck Bubba's"

Some very valid points on body grippers for roof use but I only use them there as last resorts. No matter how skilled a trapper you may be you are bound to have a less than perfect catch. If that does happen you run a high risk of damage as I have personally experienced this with a body gripper set over a soffit opening. I tell my guys if it body grippers must be used, anchor them excessively as the last thing I need is an injured coon running the neighborhood with a trap with my company trap tag on it. Just yesterday I had one of those last resort situations where I had to use a 160 over a chimney flue.

Results from female raccoon "fairly docile" on shingles for 2 nights--NO DAMAGE

As luck would have it, I just pulled a very aggressive boar coon off a Springfield Oh roof and he is now on our "mock roof".

I'll post results after two nights.

Set up on chimney is fairly easy to guide how the coon hits the trigger. The one pictured is a perfect double strike and it did not even get out of the flue. The coon was able to get far in to the trap due to the trigger spread thus the double strike. Anchoring is critical on a roof - use fresh wire!!! Never had a live coon in a 160 or 220, on a roof or anywhere else. Trigger placement is centered, with trigger spread like JBarnes. Skunks that got caught going into groundhog holes are sometimes alive, but coons -never.

I'm with JBarnes (nice catch, nice coon): Murphy's law makes a professional very circumspect about using a conibear for raccoons. Not that I can't or won't use one...

I can't help but agree with everyone who is adamant about Conibear attachments being critical. I have had two jobs where a competitor's raccoon had run off with a Conibear around his throat. One was dead and one wasn't. And I couldn't even get angry. Some years ago, one of our techs lost one the same way. I'm sure in all cases there was one mitigating factor.....stupidity!

I just roll out a bit coil that's 100% works every time when setting on the roof . I've learned things the hard way there's no short cuts IMO . Nice thing about coil it also can be bent to protect the siding on the house then used for the repair work

The experiment showed no damage at all with 14 gauge 1/2"*1" wire with both a boar and sow raccoon. Thanks to all who responded and I cant wait to order my new traps!

Jacob

Regardless of mesh size on the bottom of the trap, when placing on an asphalt roof I'd go with a plywood barrier on the bottom which extends out from the trap 4 - 6 inches on all sides. With the 1/2" x 1" mesh you may eliminate the tearing of the roof (although, never say never) you will not overcome the staining that is sure to occur from the urine & feces, especially on the lighter colored shingles. To eliminate customer complaints (and you will get them) don't stain their roof as you most assuredly will be asked to clean it, or in the extreme to replace the shingles.

I would think results might be different in the elements. Especially if the coon was high up on a roof in 0 degree weather or if it was wet rain.

Did you try it that way?

Being a newbie in the business, I started using the poly traps just because its what I learned to use. They prevent roof damage, keep the animal out of the elements and calm, and at best, out of the public eye if its on the roof for a bit. Not withstanding the few posts provided, I am rather suprised at the lack of support for this trap. It seems virtually fool proof if avoiding damage is what is being sought. Am I missing something? Or is the point of this post that most wco's don't want to use yet another type of trap? (....and lots of good stuff on here!! Thanks!)

The poly traps have become my first choice on all rooftop raccoon jobs (which = most raccoon jobs). Super-fast set-up and no issues with damage. Another plus is the fact the bait doesn't get washed away or ruined in rainy or snowy conditions. Often they just require a couple screws to secure in place, or a couple quick shelves held in place with deck screws. I screw right through the trap into the boards, or through board into trap. I use some 12x12, but the 9x9 works just as well, even on big coons.