tried them many years back the dogproof are good Also tried the 2's and 3's Personally I found the springs way to heavy they miced 90 thousands more then the vic;s monty's and northwoods i used are they usable yes but i don't have 75 lb. coyotes here so I don't need a super heavy springed trap If I were to buy again I would check out the duke #4 coilsprings at least the ones i own are a 6 1/2 jaw spread and the 4 coils are similar sized not added on to regular 2 coil traps IMHO this makes a balanced easy to set trap which holds well

"Veni,vidi, vici." Then we made rules. Now everybody has to follow them.

I have no problem giving illegal aliens a free ride back to their homes.

Cage trap is what I've always used. If you want to bait it, anything green like lettuce, broccoli, etc, will work too.
Set the cage trap against the hole.

up

0 MOA on a pic rail means it is flat to the barrel.

20 MOA on a pic rail means that it is 20 minutes or 1/3 of a degree up angle so that you can dial out further for elevation.

as an example say you want to stretch a 308 to 1000 yards for fun . your optic has 60moa of adjustment but half of it is above and half below , now you tilted your optic 20 moa so you get more like 50moa above and your crosshair at a 200 yard zero

1moa = 1/60th of a degree

IT will make a great bait. Before you freeze your bait let it taint a bit. The other thing I do Is once I've ground my bait I will make It into 2" to 3" balls then I place them a on a cookie sheet and freeze them. Once frozen I can place them in a container. And when I get ready to use them, I can take out what ever I'm going to use that day. You don't have to thaw them out just shove them down your bait hole.

So, Mr. Saskbone I have a bunch of 8X8X24" colony traps and I can't use them in WI. So, I thought I could make a funnel and place it in the end of the square trap. The entrance would have to be 6" so what size would the exit have to be? And how long would the finished funnel be? I'm thinking maybe 24" cage length won't be long enough.
Or I could just make the entrances smaller by using some wire to get down to the 6" size. But I would like to try out the funnel type trap and see If it has any advantage over the square trap.

I've taken the bird control seminar with Bird Barrier.

Biggest tip I can give you is ,
Anyone can buy and install bird control products. The key is knowing what works the best for your application/species/location.
Someone already failed at that location.

Look up Bird Barrier -

https://birdbarrier.com/

Lots of good info and help at that website.

I want to see the video of him pulling it back out!

FUNERAL HOME
Haggard Hirschy & Zelt Funeral Home
225 W Adams St

Decatur, Indiana

Wilbur Cook Obituary
Wilbur D. Cook, 79, of Decatur, passed away on Monday, June 22, 2026, at his residence. He was born in Decatur, IN, on January 6, 1947, the son of Wilbur and Esther (Manley) Cook. On June 16, 1968, Wilbur married Rebecca Engle.

Wilbur proudly served in the United States Army. He worked at Automatic Sprinkle in Monroe, IN, and later for the Indiana State Highway Department (INDOT) before retiring. Wilbur enjoyed hunting & trapping. He was a member of the National Fur Takers Association and Indiana Trappers Association.

Wilbur is survived by his wife of 58 years, Rebecca Cook of Decatur, IN; his son, Matthew (Dawn) Cook of Decatur, IN; his daughter, Nikki (Brent) Butler of Decatur, IN; siblings, Nancy (Steve) Isch of Decatur, IN, Connie (Jack) Myers of Monroe, IN, Ronnie (Sheryl) Cook of Decatur, IN, Julie (Bill) Burkhart of Willshire, OH, Jane (Dan) Gremaux of Decatur, IN, Rodney (Deanna) Cook of Monroe, IN, Jeffrey Cook of Decatur, IN; 8 grandchildren; 8 great grandchildren.

A private family visitation was held and burial will take place at a later date.

Memorials may be made to the American Legion Adams Post 43.

To send flowers to the family or plant a tree in memory of Wilbur D. Cook, please visit our floral store.

….. I see Jtrap got these yanks in here fighting his battles for him

…. That’s about right

Congrats. I get the overwhelming part. I've been custom home builder for over 35 years. Whenever it feels like your dealing with too much, stop and think things through 1 room at a time. Can sound crazy, but you can never imagine how many times I had buyers close their eyes and visualize 1 room or 1 wall.

Few things I design standard in every home I build:

42" entry door
All hallways are minimal 43" rough
36" interior doors
If its your "forever" home, design in blocking for hand rails, grab bars, and the things that make end of life easier. think of a w3alker or wheelchair. Additionally, plan out your closets and bathrooms and put blocking in for all your accessories - shelves, towel bars, paper holders and so on

If you consider plastic windows to save a little $$, do yourself a huge favor and bump it up just a little and go with the fiberglass/composite Pella Impervia. Well worth it. frames are so much more stable than vinyl.
If your installers use big-gap foam or open cell to seal the windows and doors - fire them! Low rise/minimal expanding closed cell only

AIR SEAL!!!!! Can not emphasize this enough. $4-5K invested in proper air sealing and improved insulation practices will pay you back thousands in energy costs.

Do mechanical walk-throughs before rough in and think out room by room exactly how you'll use things. Don't accept "code compliant" When you walk into a room, where is the switch for lights...what do you turn on first, another switch for ceiling fan, are they switched separate, are the top halves of the outlets switched to turn on lamps?? Are the outlets spaced so they are accessible from your furniture layout ?? Do you need floor outlets?

Ask for a roof venting calculation from your builder. The vast majority of municipalities don't require it and the roofers/siding applicators just guess and never take 3 minutes to run the calc. If it isn't balanced, you get negative flow out your soffit vents and costs big dollars to run A/C. I've seen many homes blowing hot air down into the insulation instead of rising up through a ridge vent.
https://www.owenscorning.com/en-us/roofing/components/vent-calculator

Don't let any contractor use silicone caulk on any anything exterior. Use a urethane based caulk like Quad or Vulkem. Sillycone fails in a few years and you'll create future problems. Its cheap, so everyone uses it IF they seal their penetrations. If you need to, buy 10 tubes and have it on hand for them to use and demand no silicone.

anyways, just a couple thoughts. If you get hung up on anything, give me a shout. Be more than happy to assist

Happy Birthday. I hope you have a great day!